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Shouldn't I be getting lower temps?

W

water freak

n00b
Joined
Jul 6, 2005
Messages
41
k, here's my setup...

Athlon XP 3000+ (333fsb) @2.536ghz. (with AS5)
3 res. (1X 80mm thermaltake res, 1X typhoon dual floppy res., and 1 ugly 5.25 bay res.)
Hydor L30 pump (320gph)
1X danger den black ice rad. (not the pro edition)
danger den rbx waterbock

all my water cooling is 1/2'' ID tubing

my friends are sayin i should be getting much lower temps... my temps are below

cpu load - avg. of 47C
cpu idle - avg. of 43C
case - avg. of 25C


if u have any words of wisdom, please help
 
To honest those temps do look high.

I have a shuttle with a barton OC’d to 2.4 and with the stock shuttle cooler (heat pipes vented out the rear) I only run 46c under full load (100%) doing a DC project and that’s 24/7. Room temp is average 73f.

I’d double check your setup.

Luck
 
yes, way high, er why in the world do you have 3 reserviors ? Get rid of two of them at least. Jeez.
 
Yea I have a lesser water cooling system and im running 38 idle and 43 load
 
Make sure you put a thin layer of thermal paste on the cpu and whats your loop order.How are you fans on the rads(push-pull or what) where are the rads.Need details
 
k, i have that many water res. because of my name... Water Freak, so i figured i should have a theme that suited my selected name...im thinking of adding a vertical 1 too, but heres my flow... pump--> CPU Water block --> Thermal take (80mm) res. --> rad. --> 5.25'' bay res. --> dual 3.5'' bay res. --> and back to pump...

for air flow, i have 1 intake 120mm fan mounted in the front of my case... and i have my rad. as exhaust with 1 fan on each side to promote awesome airflow, which keeps my HDs cool to the touch :) ill work on some pics... seeing as how they need to be on a webpage...
 
btw, i AM overclocking about 400mhz, so naturally my temps have incresed , last time i wasnt overclocking i hit 41c on load also, and avg. at 39ish C
 
*Friend of poster*

I told him he should of put the rad. before the waterblock. I think doing that would drop his temps a bit.
 
thanx to Chaos, i was dirrected to photobucket.com... heres some pics, but ignore the hose clamps, those were for anti kink, once i get new pics with the coolsleeves i ordered from swiftech, ill post em...

*edit* no more pics on this post, check page 2...

im still workin on neatening up that mass of ide and power cord... itll also be shown on the updated pics...
 
It looks like you worked pretty hard on that, good job, now lets get the performance to match the looks. Its your computer and you do what you want ,but I would politely suggest that you need to decide if you want to have a theme or a properly designed system that will give you low temps.

Well at least get rid of that fugly non-transparent 5 1/4 bay res in the middle. Please ! Does NOTHING to help with cooling and reduces system flow and ruins your "acrylic look". I just noticed where you mentioned it was ugly too, haha.

whats your Vcore ?

(Just in case, reserviors are NOT cooling devices.)

I agree that putting the rad just before the cpu might help, a little.

I cant tell, is there a shroud on the 120mm fan for the rad ?
I cant tell, what kind of grill/hole(s) are in the top of the case for the rad fan ?
Think you probally getting my drift, I am concerned the fan is not pulling all the air it can thru the rad. I bet you cut a nice big hole and have just a wire grill on top of the fan and a nice matching transparent shroud to seal the fan to the rad.
 
He doesn't have a shroud, he has a 120 on each side of the rad. Also, he lacks a grill from the rads 120 at the moment...
 
"btw, i AM overclocking about 400mhz"

Bah, thats not overclocking, you are just teasing it. :p

"and i have my rad. as exhaust with 1 fan on each side to promote awesome airflow"

ahhh its a metallic fan under the rad, I was wondering what that was. Now thats its not 3am I see the blowhole for the top 120mm, good job there. hmm I would work hard to get those fans off the rad, I can see you are tight for room but it would work wonders on airflow thru the radiator because as it is it is not awesome, its crappy. Keep in mind with that design all the heat generated in the case by the motherboard and video card etc., that warm case air is going thru your rad. Since clear acrylic and blue seem to be your favorite (perhaps change you handle to OuttaDaClearBlue, then you could dump 2 of those res) put in the side 80 mm fans blowing in, clear ones with blue leds of course ;) and one in the 80mm blowhole in top to get even more cool outside air in and some warm air out. Low speed quiet ones would be fine. There are fan controllers that glow blue, amazed you missed that :D There seems to be plenty of room to get a shroud (DD sells one, clear plastic too if memory serves) on that bottom rad fan. and if the whole thing could be moved down a bit, a shroud on the top fan would do the most good.

I would then redo the waterblock mount, there is a good basic system there and it should do much better that. Wonder if the thermal grease application is a bit thick or thin or something.

When you redo the block mount consider changing the dye color, that blue and green is a bit, er , off.

Little tweaking and that will be a very nice looking box.

hmm try your ccfl vertical right on the edge of the drive bays



A picture in a well lit room with the control rods inserted into the reactor core to kill the plasma glow (cut off all that blue light stuff) would be helpfull.
 
Yea, a shroud or a bigger radiator altogether should help your temps. Also cutting out two of those reservoirs should too. Just because you love water doesn't mean you need a bunch of rads, watercooling is enough.

If you get rid of the rads, redo your tubing. You seem to have a LOT of it. Do those grills in the side of your case have fans in them? Put some in to reduce ambient temps.

Make sure your block is seated properly. I'm sure the watercooling sticky has something to say about putting in your cpu block. Has the Arctic Silver broken in? Sounds like it, since you were talking about your friends nagging you for a while. When you put in your cpu block, make sure you have the right order of stuff on the screw (like washer and spring, etc.), then tighten it a little on one screw, then a little on the next, etc. Procede to go around and around the four screws, tightening them a little more each time. This should give you even contact. It's really hard to get it even if you tighten each screw all the way one by one.

Your pump is good.

Increasing the voltage will just increase the temps, but it will allow you to overclock more. Check your ram, maybe it can't take the speed you are putting it at at the timings you have. That could be a problem though, with a XP system. I believe putting a divider on your ram will decrease performance more than a Athlon64. At least I think I remember reading it. Someone else have a second opinion?
 
water freak said:
... pump--> CPU Water block --> Thermal take (80mm) res. --> rad. --> 5.25'' bay res. --> dual 3.5'' bay res. --> and back to pump...
Click to expand...

Pump ---> Block ---> RAD ---> RES ---> back to pump

Get rid of the 2 other reserviors, all they do is lower the Flow Rate.
 
k, thanx for all the advice, but for now, i think ill just remove the but ugly 5.25'' res. and yes, i made sure to be much less than generous with the AS5 and i instaled it about a week ago, idk how long it takes to get broken in, and i believe that i mounted the water block properly, the mounting screws are about 4 full turns past the point where everything makes contact, which according to my measurments (yes i did measuments) would put the block evenly snug across the core, and keep in mined, its that 1 little core, not like the A64s where u have the whole cpu... and as of right now, im not really at liberty to reconfig my hosing so my rad. goes strait to my cpu... but, when i get the money and the time, ill make sure to give that a try... and i am curious how killing a little of 320gph will make a diff in temp, cause sure it goes slower through the waterblock, but doesnt it also go slower throwgh the rad.?

again, thanx for all the suggestions, but i would like to keep my handle :D
 
ahh haaa !!! does that block mount with the springs ?

Reason I ask is my maze-3 uses the spring and nut combination and I followed DD instructions (tighten nuts till springs are compressed to 2/3 of original height and got crappy temp too. after going crazy for a week I carefully 1/2 turn at a time tightend those suckers down till the spring was 1/2 original height and temps when down. Wellll nooowww cant stop there, I ended up compressing the springs all the way (this was on a bare core xp) and temps increased better still.

Perhaps their springs have gotten stiffer etc. dont want you to crack anything, But think about clamping down on that sucker a bit.
 
i didnt use the springs, didnt like the feel of them, wouldnt let me know when to stop tightening them, but ill try tightening them, not too much, just incase the unknown happens, but enough... and hopefully ill be removing that extra res. tonight, so i might take and post pictures tomorrow... btw, did u mean "temps decreased better still"?
 
water freak said:
i didnt use the springs, didnt like the feel of them, wouldnt let me know when to stop tightening them, but ill try tightening them, not too much, just incase the unknown happens, but enough... and hopefully ill be removing that extra res. tonight, so i might take and post pictures tomorrow... btw, did u mean "temps decreased better still"?
Click to expand...

If you didn’t use the springs it’s entirely possible that your water block is not seated square with the face of the core. In other words, tilted a bit. Any tilt totally defeats the purpose of full surface-to-surface contact.

As was pointed out, it’s a small core and a bit harder to keep the block flat on the surface, unlike the AMD 64’s.

Give those springs a try.
 
water freak said:
i didnt use the springs, didnt like the feel of them, wouldnt let me know when to stop tightening them, but ill try tightening them, not too much, just incase the unknown happens, but enough... and hopefully ill be removing that extra res. tonight, so i might take and post pictures tomorrow... btw, did u mean "temps decreased better still"?
Click to expand...

yep, I butchered that pretty bad. I mean that my temps went down, improved, as I applied more pressure to the springs. I ended up with the springs compressed all the way. However it appears they now ship with stiffer springs.

If you are not using the springs I am pretty sure that is your issue. The springs are actually a nice way of doing the clamping from an engineering standpoint. Put em on as recommended on DD site. If temps ok leave them alone, if still a bit high, reach in your case and crank them down a little, wait a day for stuff to stabilize, rinse and repeat. Only use your fingers to tighten the nuts. If you get them so tight you need pliers or anything else, stop there.
 
ok, new setup:

pump -> water block -> res. (80mm) - > rad. -> res. (dual floppy) -> pump

i got rid of that nasty 5.25'' res, sorta destroyed the blue fan on the top (refer to pics) and turned it into a shroud (i just neatly cut out the guts and it was the weakest fan) and i did get rid of that nasty mess of wires...
as of now, my temps have droped about 3c wich is nice, but im still idling at 40c, and i will try the springs... itll just take a while till i have enough free time to do so, cause i hate applying AS5, it gets all over and takes forever to apply

and im still looking for suggestions, but loosing a res. thats bout the only thing im not gonna do... pics are comming soon and thanks again
 
Just wondering what 3 Res does to your flow rate? It (removing two res) may not be your solution for lower temps, but it will only help things.
 
it slows down the flow and stablizes temps so they dont flux. too much, other than that, i dont know
 
Woot, new pix...
the third pic is my custom shroud, and the 5th pic is a close up of my anti kink coolsleeves by swiftech

and yes, i realize that i only had 1 5.25'' bay cover in, but thats been fixed... forgot to install the others before photoshoot

Set368_01.jpg


Set368_02.jpg


Set368_03.jpg


Set368_04.jpg


Set368_05.jpg


Set368_06.jpg


ive made some progres, but still loking for suggestions...
 
You might turn off the CCFL and turn on the room lights. I think we are supposed to be trying to get you lower temps, and I can barely make out your connections with your case in e-peen mode. A good way to get lower temps is to properly seat that block, make sure your piping is in the order described above, and possibly get another radiator.
 
Majin said:
Pump ---> Block ---> RAD ---> RES ---> back to pump

Get rid of the 2 other reserviors, all they do is lower the Flow Rate.
Click to expand...

exactly - and if aything get ride of ALL the res and get a T line instead for filling.
 
yeah, sorry bout the pic quality, the flow is pump-> waterblock -> res. -> rad. -> res. -> pump... and does ccfl = cold cathodes? i was never told this... but to get another rad. which is my dream, i would probly have to get a new case. unless i got a smaller psu (the aspire turbo is HUGE, and heavy) and get a dually 120mm fan rad. which come to think of it doesnt sound like half bad of an idea... in fact, as soon as i pay off my car ill be getting a better psu AND a dually rad., but id have no room for my current rad, there isnt enough space on the sides, inless i hade 1 side unscrewed enogh for the fan to be at an angle, but there would be absolutly no room for a shroud, but hey, if i kept the rad, its not like the temps would rise because of not having a shroud...
 
water freak said:
pump-> waterblock ->
Click to expand...

Waaaait, hold up, you're pushing water into the sides of the block and making the middle the outtake. That block is designed to do it the other way around (center intake, side outtakes). I'll bet thats why the temps are higher...
 
yeah, that was temp, i didnt have enough tubing, they gave me 7' and i used all of it... and come to think of it, that res i just took out had about 5 inches of length i needed to make it right in the first place...

ill actually be fixing that now i have the tubing... wow, im really glad i didnt throw the extra tubing away...
 
k. the pump is now pumping full swing in the proper direction... without the AS5 settled in it droped 1c, hopefully itll drop more when the AS5 settles... i also installed the springs on the waterblock mount, it sucked though cause when i was in the middle of tightening the screws, 1 of the hoses fell off my 80mm res., so after lossing a bit of water in my system and almost loosing a mobo (anlong with a lot of swearing), i reconnected the tubes and reconnected the other, because they appeared to be on, but just 1 wasnt on fully, so i cranked down on the screws to hold it on... but as u might guess, it still works!!! so im happy... and now im seriously considering getting a new/smaller psu and a dually rad.
 
*edit* bleh nevermind, wasnt a very constructive post on my part. Nothing to see here, move along :)
 
constructive or not, id like to hear it, its ok, i can take criticizm of any kind... im a big boy... lol
 
ok... i have seriously thought about getting a dual 120mm rad (black ice extreme II) and mount my current single in the front... once i do, im gonna need to make 2 dual 120mm shrouds... does any1 know the suggested distance between the rad. and fans? i really dont feel like payin 15 each at the moment for acrylic shrouds by danger den, not to mention they only have a max. of about 1cm of space between the fans and rad.

penny for your thoughts?
 
3 resevoirs is going to severly restrict your flow rates, if you want to get around this you can by using gravity to your advantage

Highest res -> middle res -> lowest res ->pump ->rad ->blocks

just an idea so you can keep your 3 resevoirs
 
oh, i should take those pics out... the new 1s are with coolsleeves, and are just above... but... there is 1 small semi kink that is unpreventable... its only cutting of a max of 25% of waterflow, which is about the same of my thermaltake res. so im considering just taking that res out when i get some more rad.s so ill just end up completely redoing my whole water flow and such... but sadly this wont be happening till about late august...
 
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