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Serious thermal issues

A

atom

Gawd
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
861
So... occasionally when gaming my mobo software sets off an alarm for my 8350 reaching 65 deg, which I have been dismissing for a while because by the time I check it usually drops back down to about 60 or so. Today I tried converting a video in handbrake... that baby hit 85 degrees! I clearly have some serious issues here, I am guessing the thermal paste has dried up. I have "Arctic Silver 5" on there that I got from radio shack. Does the stock cooler come with one of those thermal pads that are supposed to melt? If it does I don't remember removing mine :eek: So I have a mixture of thermal paste on there... hopefully I get some time to look at this tomorrow and will take some pics!
 
If you're overclocked at all...there's no way in hell that stock HSF is anything close to adequate. Dried thermal paste or not.
 
No, overclocking doesn't line up with my beliefs that money spent on trying to make an overclock stable could have been spent on a CPU. Come to think of it though, I was doing a mild overclock for about 3 weeks until it suddenly became unstable. I don't remember the temps going up that much though. If the paste is shot though it amazes me that at idle its reading 37c.
 
Take the cooler down and check. The stock cooler more than likely came with a pre-applied TIM--at least it did with the FX-6100 I got a while back.

You probably got higher temps converting in handbrake than you did in gaming because handbrake will actually utilize all cores at ~100% while converting a video (as opposed to a game which may not make complete use of all cores).
 
My 8120,8350 and 9370 all came with the grey pad on the stock cooler. The compound is actually pretty good stuff. The cooler itself stinks but shouldn't go to even 60c with it while gaming. Are you sure its your cpu temps and not the motherboard
 
Yeah if in doubt on the thermal paste just power it down, pull it off (easier when hot than after a year or two or cold ;)) Then check it see what was there, wipe some off with Isopropyol Alcohol (costs like .50 cents) Paper towel or rag, dry it. Do same with bottom of heatsink. Then reapply rice sized amount. Make sure when your heatsink snaps on that it is forced down all the way with equal pressure on all 4 corners. Make sure you CPU fan is hooked up to the correct motherboard fan header as well. If all looks good, reboot... hit delete or F key then put bios @ default factory settings, save and exit. Make sure the fans are all spinning before you close the case up. Handbrake will use 100 pct cpu cores so yeah that is the tester when it comes to real world cpu temps in a real world scenario imho. Hopefully you find out what was the cause, if not I'm not sure what the problem is honestly.
 
Ethanol and coffee filters are the best way I have found to remove thermal paste and clean CPUs and heatsinks.
 
You all get into it to much...half the time I spit on a rag and rub on it. comes right off.
 
Sure it's not the VRM heating up due to higher than normal voltage?
 
You don't have any real problem here at all. By problem I mean I don't think there is anything really wrong in what you did setting up your computer. The paste isn't a problem. I had an 8350 for a while and they just run really hot with the stock cooler. Not your fault. You can change thermal compound all you want but it won't really change things much.

I ran my cpu at stock speed and voltage with all the power saving features enabled. At idle the fan on the stock cooler was typically around 3000 to 3500 rpm in the summer when room temp was a bit higher than now. Under load it was over 6000 rpm. The cooler was hot to the touch so it wasn't just a case of the bios or software program not being calibrated correctly. I don't remember the exact temps but I know the idle temp was in the very high 40s or low 50s. It was over 50 while I was in the bios. Load temps got really high and scared me too so I understand what you are saying.

I think those load temps are unacceptable and the only solution is to buy a better cooler like a 212 EVO and be done with it. Of course if you can improve airflow through the case that would be good too, but the cpu cooler needs changed to something better.
 
Thanks for the tip guys. Here is where I am at.

I pulled off the cooler, nothing seemed weird about the consistency of the paste. It did seem like it was spread like there were some little air gaps. I thought this must be it. I wiped off all the paste, and reapplied the rest of my Arctic Silver 5 tube. It might have been a little much, but I thought the issue might have been the paste spread too thin.

So here I am now: idle at 36c. 1 min on handbrake i hit 60c, 2 min 75c. 3 min 85c. Luckily it doesn't want to go any higher then that. What alarmed me the other day was a slight toasty smell coming out of my case. Im not smelling it today, that might be because I removed the old paste which I guess has some waxy stuff in it. Anyways, It seems I am remaining stable at 85 and since its not at that temp all the time I will be happy with it for now.
 
atom said:
Thanks for the tip guys. Here is where I am at.

I pulled off the cooler, nothing seemed weird about the consistency of the paste. It did seem like it was spread like there were some little air gaps. I thought this must be it. I wiped off all the paste, and reapplied the rest of my Arctic Silver 5 tube. It might have been a little much, but I thought the issue might have been the paste spread too thin.

So here I am now: idle at 36c. 1 min on handbrake i hit 60c, 2 min 75c. 3 min 85c. Luckily it doesn't want to go any higher then that. What alarmed me the other day was a slight toasty smell coming out of my case. Im not smelling it today, that might be because I removed the old paste which I guess has some waxy stuff in it. Anyways, It seems I am remaining stable at 85 and since its not at that temp all the time I will be happy with it for now.
Click to expand...

while it seems like you are at the same place you were before, but if you gobbed a lot of thermal paste on there you are doing it wrong, thermal paste is supposed to be spread thin
 
atom said:
So... occasionally when gaming my mobo software sets off an alarm for my 8350 reaching 65 deg, which I have been dismissing for a while because by the time I check it usually drops back down to about 60 or so. Today I tried converting a video in handbrake... that baby hit 85 degrees! I clearly have some serious issues here,!
Click to expand...

cageymaru said:
Sure it's not the VRM heating up due to higher than normal voltage?
Click to expand...
What Mobo do you have? Anything below and 8 phase power system tends to get really hot and transfers heat to the cpu.

pgaster said:
You don't have any real problem here at all. By problem I mean I don't think there is anything really wrong in what you did setting up your computer. The paste isn't a problem. I had an 8350 for a while and they just run really hot with the stock cooler. Not your fault. You can change thermal compound all you want but it won't really change things much.

I think those load temps are unacceptable and the only solution is to buy a better cooler like a 212 EVO and be done with it. Of course if you can improve airflow through the case that would be good too, but the cpu cooler needs changed to something better.
Click to expand...

Stock cooler just doesn't cut it on these chips.
Case airflow is very important. These octacore CPUs are very hot and power hungry. Takes a lot of air to dissipate all that heat.
Small fans on the VRM heatsinks will help and so will one in behind the Mobo if your case has a cutout in the tray. This is what I did with a chipset fan and double sided tape.
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I would, clean with either some sort of storebought solution to clean the surface of the CPU or some pure isopropyl alcohol (70% will do fine, but 90% is better). Then apply the paste according to the directions found on the Arctic website. Their really detailed. From there if you are still having issues, I would suspect your cooling solution to be very inadequate (either your doing it wrong with the thermal grease or just generally the setup with the HSF and other components).
 
pstang said:
while it seems like you are at the same place you were before, but if you gobbed a lot of thermal paste on there you are doing it wrong, thermal paste is supposed to be spread thin
Click to expand...

Oh yes, I am well aware. In my experience though it won't make 25 degrees of difference especially when there are no problems at Idle. The situation had me questioning my practices that have worked for the last 14 years or so. When I converted videos in handbrake before I didn't have the motherboard software installed so I had no idea what was going on before basically. I just will have to wait till I have some money then get a better cooler someday, or just deal with it. I haven't had a game push it above 60 or so really so it should be fine since the handbrake is only an occasional task.

If I could go back, I would have just payed the money for an i5 since I apparently have to spend money on my 8350 for adequate cooling. Back in the day I would of course use an aftermarket cooler but that was so I could OVERCLOCK.
 
atom said:
Oh yes, I am well aware. In my experience though it won't make 25 degrees of difference especially when there are no problems at Idle. The situation had me questioning my practices that have worked for the last 14 years or so. When I converted videos in handbrake before I didn't have the motherboard software installed so I had no idea what was going on before basically. I just will have to wait till I have some money then get a better cooler someday, or just deal with it. I haven't had a game push it above 60 or so really so it should be fine since the handbrake is only an occasional task.

If I could go back, I would have just payed the money for an i5 since I apparently have to spend money on my 8350 for adequate cooling. Back in the day I would of course use an aftermarket cooler but that was so I could OVERCLOCK.
Click to expand...

My Intel CPU would get to 97C on the stock heatsink without overclocking.

All stock heatsinks are bad these days, Intel actually made theirs smaller which hasn't helped.
 
@Johan45 I have an Asus Sabertooth V1. If I raise the voltage on the CPU to OC or if I let the onboard Asus bios automatically overclock my mobo, the VRM will thermal out and cause the CPU to crash. I ended up using the stock CPU fan to cool the VRM as it fit perfectly over them. With a H80 the most voltage I send is 1.284v to my CPU. As soon as the heat from the VRM causes the CPU to hit 60c, it hangs my system. Thus the need for a VRM fan.
 
cageymaru said:
@Johan45 I have an Asus Sabertooth V1. If I raise the voltage on the CPU to OC or if I let the onboard Asus bios automatically overclock my mobo, the VRM will thermal out and cause the CPU to crash. I ended up using the stock CPU fan to cool the VRM as it fit perfectly over them. With a H80 the most voltage I send is 1.284v to my CPU. As soon as the heat from the VRM causes the CPU to hit 60c, it hangs my system. Thus the need for a VRM fan.
Click to expand...

That is one thing that most don't realize at first with the AIO coolers or water you take away the airflow around the VRM/NB area that an Air cooler would provide. If you can try the fan on the back of your board dropped my socket teps by 10c
 
10c is pretty impressive. I have an Antec GX 700 for my case and there is barely enough room back there to run a cable let alone try to stick a fan back there.
 
What kind of case do you have? A small closed water loop would be a great option to keep that chipped cool
 
atom said:
10c is pretty impressive. I have an Antec GX 700 for my case and there is barely enough room back there to run a cable let alone try to stick a fan back there.
Click to expand...

You don't need a whole lot of room, that's a 50mm chipset fan in the pic, screams like a banshee but it helped when I was pushing things. I have an open set up now.
 
Do you have proper case ventilation? If there is no airflow in the case then it's just going to stew in its own heat. A decent negative pressure setup should be enough to draw air across the VRM to cool them.
 
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