SENTRY: Console-sized gaming PC case project

Whelp I did the thing, R7 1700X from PrimeDay and ASRock AB350 mITX from SuperBiiz on the way. Now to find some ram and order a T318 w/noctua fan (unless it's been dethroned?).

It wasn't thoroughly tested in the Sentry, but I believe SaperPL already has it operating and his initial report sounded good. He'll probably follow-up on that soon.
You'll need to make yourself a custom bracket though.
 
I just ordered the Gigabyte board from Superbiiz to replace the Biostar board which is about to be returned/RMAed to Newegg. Thankfully my 1080 Ti wasn't the issue since I tested both my 1080 Ti and my 780 in the Sentry and old system. Old system is good, Biostar board was not.
 
the machine is running, but first the shock hehe
after the pain with my 1060 super jetstream, my new card a msi 1080 oc aero did not get recognized from the system.
i found out that i thighten the pci riser-screws too much. now it works like a charm.

for my colorpixel button i have soldered an adapter board. now i control the color with the asus aura app.

Asus STRIX Z270I Gaming
Intel Core i7 7700
Noctua NH-L9i
Samsung 960 Pro 512GB
32GB HyperX Savage DDR4-2400
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Aero 8G OC
Asus SBC-06D2X-U Blu-ray Combo
Silverstone SST-SX500-LG v2.0

16mm Antivandal RGB "Colorpixel" Button
LED Adapter Board

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thank you for this case... i enjoyed the build very much ^^
 
Just got a fractal node 202 as a temporary case for my build and god damn it's big. I was expecting console sized but nope, it's bigger than my parents home pc!?!

Would someone with a sentry mind posting one or two comparison photos with a console or something, so I can use it to get a good idea of real world size.
 
the machine is running, but first the shock hehe
after the pain with my 1060 super jetstream, my new card a msi 1080 oc aero did not get recognized from the system.
i found out that i thighten the pci riser-screws too much. now it works like a charm.

for my colorpixel button i have soldered an adapter board. now i control the color with the asus aura app.

Asus STRIX Z270I Gaming
Intel Core i7 7700
Noctua NH-L9i
Samsung 960 Pro 512GB
32GB HyperX Savage DDR4-2400
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Aero 8G OC
Asus SBC-06D2X-U Blu-ray Combo
Silverstone SST-SX500-LG v2.0

16mm Antivandal RGB "Colorpixel" Button
LED Adapter Board


thank you for this case... i enjoyed the build very much ^^

Nice build :)

One question: Shouldn't you screw back screws from PSU which were holding the grill? As i remember they also were also keeping the frame of the fan in its initial position... but i may be wrong. Please check this one.
 
Just got a fractal node 202 as a temporary case for my build and god damn it's big. I was expecting console sized but nope, it's bigger than my parents home pc!?!

Would someone with a sentry mind posting one or two comparison photos with a console or something, so I can use it to get a good idea of real world size.

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There's more here.
 
the machine is running, but first the shock hehe
after the pain with my 1060 super jetstream, my new card a msi 1080 oc aero did not get recognized from the system.
i found out that i thighten the pci riser-screws too much. now it works like a charm.

for my colorpixel button i have soldered an adapter board. now i control the color with the asus aura app.

Asus STRIX Z270I Gaming
Intel Core i7 7700
Noctua NH-L9i
Samsung 960 Pro 512GB
32GB HyperX Savage DDR4-2400
MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Aero 8G OC
Asus SBC-06D2X-U Blu-ray Combo
Silverstone SST-SX500-LG v2.0

16mm Antivandal RGB "Colorpixel" Button
LED Adapter Board


thank you for this case... i enjoyed the build very much ^^

Omg I've been looking for ways to wire my colorpixel button! Did you follow the linked instructions exactly? Did you get the correct voltages? How did you connect it to the motherboard? The normal front panel header? Isn't the colorpixel button pwm controlled? More pictures please.
 
For thos AM4 builders interested, I got pricing info back from Dynatron on the A18!

"Hi J

I was on business trip and just came back today.
Unit price of A18 is $25 per pcs.
Please let me know how many pcs do you need?


Thanks.
Best regards,
Karen Ko
Dynatron Corporation"


I asked her about Intel Socket Brackets in case they have made AM4 ones yet and if they had plans to make a T318 style for AM4 as well. Here's hoping!
 
I've just bought the Gigabyte board. If anyone in Poland is interested there are 2 more

Great! They're starting to arrive :) I was tempted to buy one, but I'll wait for the Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac which I prefer mainly because of the USB type C. Although it doesn't have USB 3.1 - bah...

Overclock3d mentioned in their GB review that the VRMs get quite hot, almost to the point of being too hot for Gigabyte's own standards (sic!). Thoughts on this?

 
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Hey all, I have a problem, and given that you all seem like a smart group, I thought I'd present it:

I sort of accidentally bought two M.2 NVMe drives (the Toshiba XG3 500Gb and XG4 1Tb). What's the best way (if any) to get full or close to full performance out of both drives? I have the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 itx board with a 6600k. It only has one M.2 slot (that can run in PCI x4), a bunch of sata ports, and a Sata Express port. Is there a way I could convert an M.2 to Sata Express without totally ruining the extra speed of NVMe? Or some other black magic you guys know of (are M.2.....splitters? a thing?)

Alternatively, does anyone know if there's any Z170/Z270 mini itx boards at all that have TWO M.2 slots? Asus seems to have one, the Z270 Strix, but I'd really rather not spend money on a new motherboard, and that's a particulalr expensive model....

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?
 
For anyone wondering about temperatures of a 1080Ti in the case - I've had my EVGA SC2 running Nicehash at 71% power target for the last hour or so - temperatures hit ~ 55C for GPU, power and RAM. Fan at just over 1800rpm.

Noise was identical to the Gigabyte 1070 I had previously. Ambient's fucking cold at present, but it's not looking impossible to use inside this case, even for cryptocurrency mining.
 
Hey all, I have a problem, and given that you all seem like a smart group, I thought I'd present it:

I sort of accidentally bought two M.2 NVMe drives (the Toshiba XG3 500Gb and XG4 1Tb). What's the best way (if any) to get full or close to full performance out of both drives? I have the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 itx board with a 6600k. It only has one M.2 slot (that can run in PCI x4), a bunch of sata ports, and a Sata Express port. Is there a way I could convert an M.2 to Sata Express without totally ruining the extra speed of NVMe? Or some other black magic you guys know of (are M.2.....splitters? a thing?)

Alternatively, does anyone know if there's any Z170/Z270 mini itx boards at all that have TWO M.2 slots? Asus seems to have one, the Z270 Strix, but I'd really rather not spend money on a new motherboard, and that's a particulalr expensive model....

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

Z270 strix is the only ITX board I know of with two m.2. If you get an m.2 to Sata (or Sata express) it will likely default to Sata speeds. check if you can even use both pcie x4 m.2 and Sata express simultaneously. The chipset may not actually support both concurrently due to limited i/o lanes. You can check your motherboard manual for a chipset i/o block diagram. So really the only options are get a new motherboard or run the m.2 drive at Sata speeds. Which Sata speeds are pretty good for most people. You'll probably get very close to the theoretical 750MB/s Sata supports.
 
For anyone wondering about temperatures of a 1080Ti in the case - I've had my EVGA SC2 running Nicehash at 71% power target for the last hour or so - temperatures hit ~ 55C for GPU, power and RAM. Fan at just over 1800rpm.

Noise was identical to the Gigabyte 1070 I had previously. Ambient's fucking cold at present, but it's not looking impossible to use inside this case, even for cryptocurrency mining.

That is very interesting.

What are your other specs? CPU, motherboard, CPU Cooler, Power supply?
 
Nice build :)

One question: Shouldn't you screw back screws from PSU which were holding the grill? As i remember they also were also keeping the frame of the fan in its initial position... but i may be wrong. Please check this one.
thanks :D
you are right, the screws have to be screwed back in :whistle:

Omg I've been looking for ways to wire my colorpixel button! Did you follow the linked instructions exactly? Did you get the correct voltages? How did you connect it to the motherboard? The normal front panel header? Isn't the colorpixel button pwm controlled? More pictures please.
i followed the instructions exactly plus the individual resistors for 12V (R=560Ohm, G=470Ohm, B=470Ohm). my asus board have this 12V RGB Header which i use.
 
thanks :D
you are right, the screws have to be screwed back in :whistle:


i followed the instructions exactly plus the individual resistors for 12V (R=560Ohm, G=470Ohm, B=470Ohm). my asus board have this 12V RGB Header which i use.

I unfortunately don't have an RGB header.. Just the old front panel header which puts out some odd voltages like 1.3 or 1.4v iirc. Maybe I'll add the colorpixel switch when I upgrade in the future to a board with some sort of rgb integration. Damn 4790k is still too good though.
 
Hey all, I have a problem, and given that you all seem like a smart group, I thought I'd present it:

I sort of accidentally bought two M.2 NVMe drives (the Toshiba XG3 500Gb and XG4 1Tb). What's the best way (if any) to get full or close to full performance out of both drives? I have the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 itx board with a 6600k. It only has one M.2 slot (that can run in PCI x4), a bunch of sata ports, and a Sata Express port. Is there a way I could convert an M.2 to Sata Express without totally ruining the extra speed of NVMe? Or some other black magic you guys know of (are M.2.....splitters? a thing?)

Alternatively, does anyone know if there's any Z170/Z270 mini itx boards at all that have TWO M.2 slots? Asus seems to have one, the Z270 Strix, but I'd really rather not spend money on a new motherboard, and that's a particulalr expensive model....

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

It looks like Asus has added the Strix B250 and H270 Gaming itx boards, both of which are less expensive than the Z270. They both come in under 120.00 and still include the dual M.2 slots. Might want to check them out if you end up having to buy a new MB...
 
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For those who use the LP53, did try you combining it with a liquid metal thermal compound?

I thought about it but then I realized I'm still limited by the TIM under the IHS on my 4790k as I have not delidded. I use Noctua TIM between the cpu and lp53 and with an undervolt of -0.05v at stock clocks I rarely see temps above 75-77C during normal gaming.

So if you've delidded, and have better TIM or liquid metal under the IHS then yes perhaps liquid metal under the lp53 may further decrease temps. Iirc gallium (the main component of liquid metal Tim) does not react with copper, just aluminum. Technically gallium reacts with copper to form CuGa2, but I think it only affects the outer few microns of the copper surface and won't lead to catastrophic failure like with aluminum. So you should be safe.

If you plan to have your system vertical I would recommend something to prevent liquid metal from flowing with gravity in case it seeps out from between the cpu and cooler. Maybe my fears are misplaced, I've never used liquid metal.
 
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My 4790k is delidded and treated with liquid metal. I didnt do it myself, I bought the CPU second hand in a German hardware board (hardwareluxx.de), I trust it has been done. What would you do to prevent it from dripping?
 
I thought about it but then I realized I'm still limited by the TIM under the IHS on my 4790k as I have not delidded. I use Noctua TIM between the cpu and lp53 and with an undervolt of -0.05v at stock clocks I rarely see temps above 75-77C during normal gaming.

So if you've delidded, and have better TIM or liquid metal under the IHS then yes perhaps liquid metal under the lp53 may further decrease temps. Iirc gallium (the main component of liquid metal Tim) does not react with copper, just aluminum. Technically gallium reacts with copper to form CuGa2, but I think it only affects the outer few microns of the copper surface and won't lead to catastrophic failure like with aluminum. So you should be safe.

If you plan to have your system vertical I would recommend something to prevent liquid metal from flowing with gravity in case it seeps out from between the cpu and cooler. Maybe my fears are misplaced, I've never used liquid metal.

I haven't opened it up and peeked under the IHS, but I've used my overclocked 4770K die>IHS with Liquid Metal Ultra since the day I bought it in a vertical position. As far as I can tell I haven't had any noticeable thermal issues with flow or pump-out and I use my tower vertically.

It hasn't had a lot of thermal cycles (I keep it on 24/7) and it's got a giant NH-D14 on it so that may mitigate the chances of pump-out, but I really don't know.
 
Hey all, I have a problem, and given that you all seem like a smart group, I thought I'd present it:

I sort of accidentally bought two M.2 NVMe drives (the Toshiba XG3 500Gb and XG4 1Tb). What's the best way (if any) to get full or close to full performance out of both drives? I have the ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 itx board with a 6600k. It only has one M.2 slot (that can run in PCI x4), a bunch of sata ports, and a Sata Express port. Is there a way I could convert an M.2 to Sata Express without totally ruining the extra speed of NVMe? Or some other black magic you guys know of (are M.2.....splitters? a thing?)

Alternatively, does anyone know if there's any Z170/Z270 mini itx boards at all that have TWO M.2 slots? Asus seems to have one, the Z270 Strix, but I'd really rather not spend money on a new motherboard, and that's a particulalr expensive model....

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?

I also came across this: Sabrent M.2 SSD to 2.5-Inch SATA III Aluminum Enclosure Adapter (EC-M2SA). Listed on Amazon for 10.00. Supposedly offers full M.2 speeds in a SATA enclosure.

Edit: Oops. After further investigation, looks like it doesn't work at full speed with NVMe.
 
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I haven't opened it up and peeked under the IHS, but I've used my overclocked 4770K die>IHS with Liquid Metal Ultra since the day I bought it in a vertical position. As far as I can tell I haven't had any noticeable thermal issues with flow or pump-out and I use my tower vertically.

It hasn't had a lot of thermal cycles (I keep it on 24/7) and it's got a giant NH-D14 on it so that may mitigate the chances of pump-out, but I really don't know.

Gallium melts at 29C. It just always worries me it will flow or drip. But obviously nobody would risk it if it were a very common problem. Does it ever "dry out"? I've heard some people complain it has to be reapplied almost once per year. Or is that dependent on thermal cycles? I may give it a try on a pentium G3258 I have lying around. Maybe someday I'll work up the courage to do it to my 4790k in my Sentry.
 
Hey guys. I know the sentry wasn't build for 180W GPUs, but since alot of you seemed to be very confident in using a 1080 or even a 1080Ti, I decided to go with a MSI 1080 Aero OC.

My build is:
i7 7700 (non k)
MSI Aero 1080 OC
16GB RAM
Noctula NH L9i
Corsair SF450
a 4k monitor

I just played Ghost Recon Wildlands in 4k and high settings. The GPU hit 90°C almost immediately. People have claimed to run 1080 Tis at around 85°C...

90°C seems a bit high to me. Is it "safe" running a gpu at this temperatures?

edit: I use it in vertical position.
 
Hey guys. I know the sentry wasn't build for 180W GPUs, but since alot of you seemed to be very confident in using a 1080 or even a 1080Ti, I decided to go with a MSI 1080 Aero OC.

My build is:
i7 7700 (non k)
MSI Aero 1080 OC
16GB RAM
Noctula NH L9i
Corsair SF450
a 4k monitor

I just played Ghost Recon Wildlands in 4k and high settings. The GPU hit 90°C almost immediately. People have claimed to run 1080 Tis at around 85°C...

90°C seems a bit high to me. Is it "safe" running a gpu at this temperatures?

edit: I use it in vertical position.
You should ramp up your fan speed. The absolute max temp in the spec of 1080ti is 91 degree. You only have 1c headroom and if temp go beyond that the chip will quickly deteriorate. Ideally you should keep your GPU below 75c to lenghten its lifespan.
 
I did it! I had changed the direction of Noctua L9i for AM4! Now the temperature has decreased. By the way, you still need the Noctua's AM4 screw and the backplane. I use a 12 X 12 aluminium profile and 4 riveting pressure screws, and here is the drawing if someone wants to build things like this. Also thanks SaperPL for his help!

My build is:
Ryzen 1700
Noctula NH L9i Homemade kit
Gigabyte GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (upgrade 3165 to 8265 )
Ballistix Elite 3000 8GB*2
SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD
HGST 1TB 2.5’‘ 7200RPM HD
Colorful 1080Ti CH
SilverStone SX600-G


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fan speed was at 100%...
Then you should try to return the card as it might be a defect...
Or if you can return and refund and buy other model of 1080. If you want ablower style I suggest you buy the founders edition as it has vapor chamber that should be more effective than the non vapor chamber aero card. Or just buy an open air card if you can sacrifice some cpu temp.
 
Yeah 90C at 100% fan seems a bit messed up. I've never gotten close to that on my 1070 blower with a max of 65% fan speed.
 
great... even more waiting. and the gpu prices did rise by ~150€ in the passed week (at least in germany). I hate this hobby :(
 
Hey guys. I know the sentry wasn't build for 180W GPUs, but since alot of you seemed to be very confident in using a 1080 or even a 1080Ti, I decided to go with a MSI 1080 Aero OC.

My build is:
i7 7700 (non k)
MSI Aero 1080 OC
16GB RAM
Noctula NH L9i
Corsair SF450
a 4k monitor

I just played Ghost Recon Wildlands in 4k and high settings. The GPU hit 90°C almost immediately. People have claimed to run 1080 Tis at around 85°C...

90°C seems a bit high to me. Is it "safe" running a gpu at this temperatures?

edit: I use it in vertical position.

I'm almost certain the msi 1080 aero OC doesn't have a vapor chamber cooler. That's why I went with the founders edition. The vapor chamber makes a pretty big difference.
 
great... even more waiting. and the gpu prices did rise by ~150€ in the passed week (at least in germany). I hate this hobby :(
I feel you man. Next time you buy a blower style card, make sure it's a founders edition. They rarely have a problem, works almost in any situation and looks better too. (At least in my opinion)
 
That is very interesting.

What are your other specs? CPU, motherboard, CPU Cooler, Power supply?

Biostar X370GTN - note, I/O shield is in place
R7 1700 running at 3.7GHz, Noctua L9i with adapter
32GB of some kind of RAM
MydigitalSSD BPXe 512GB NVMe
Corsair SF600

Vertical orientation for the case, about 20cm away from the wall on the left side, 10cm away from the wall at the rear.

Note that it's the middle of Winter here, idle temps are ~ 10C above ambient. Note that while I was doing the mining tests, I was also CPU mining.

Under gaming loads, it's definitely working the fans hard - temperatures are fine, but noise is creeping up there. ~ 2200rpm at full tilt at times.
 
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Gallium melts at 29C. It just always worries me it will flow or drip. But obviously nobody would risk it if it were a very common problem. Does it ever "dry out"? I've heard some people complain it has to be reapplied almost once per year. Or is that dependent on thermal cycles? I may give it a try on a pentium G3258 I have lying around. Maybe someday I'll work up the courage to do it to my 4790k in my Sentry.

Ive done some reseach and modern liquid metal like http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en will solidify at 10 degrees celsius. It cannot "dry out" be the common sense of the meaning but obv it can oxidate. Ill try it on my CPU shortly with the LP53+Noctua A9x14 combination. Are you interested in a comparison between the arctic silver V, the arctic MX-4 and the abovementioned thermal grizzly conductonaut? I might even add the Noctua A9 with 25 mm and crosscompare to the L9i. Note: I do not have a sentry yet, this work would be done in a Node 202.
 
Ive done some reseach and modern liquid metal like http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en will solidify at 10 degrees celsius. It cannot "dry out" be the common sense of the meaning but obv it can oxidate. Ill try it on my CPU shortly with the LP53+Noctua A9x14 combination. Are you interested in a comparison between the arctic silver V, the arctic MX-4 and the abovementioned thermal grizzly conductonaut? I might even add the Noctua A9 with 25 mm and crosscompare to the L9i. Note: I do not have a sentry yet, this work would be done in a Node 202.

You have used it before and in my experience and my specific use and environment I have to reapply it maybe every two years or so. That doesn't mean it doesn't work anymore after two years, it just means your temp gains are gone after that time which means it ages just like silicon based thermal paste, just faster.
The most annoying thing is getting the stuff off your CPU after you have applied it since alcohol won't dissolve it.
 
I am moving countries so decided to hold off till the Sentry hopefully hits retail. In the mean time I have agreed to sell my slot in the Indiegogo campaign. I have reached out via Email and on the Campaign page but getting a little worried now as there has no response. How do I go about changing the country of the shipping address?
 
I am moving countries so decided to hold off till the Sentry hopefully hits retail. In the mean time I have agreed to sell my slot in the Indiegogo campaign. I have reached out via Email and on the Campaign page but getting a little worried now as there has no response. How do I go about changing the country of the shipping address?

We are getting dozens of emails every day, so there is a possibility that we missed yours. Sorry for that.

You can't change your country via indiegogo system. They don't allow this operation. We will have to solve it on our side, but everyone's situation is usually different. Please write us another email with your question.
 
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Ive done some reseach and modern liquid metal like http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/26-conductonaut-en will solidify at 10 degrees celsius. It cannot "dry out" be the common sense of the meaning but obv it can oxidate. Ill try it on my CPU shortly with the LP53+Noctua A9x14 combination. Are you interested in a comparison between the arctic silver V, the arctic MX-4 and the abovementioned thermal grizzly conductonaut? I might even add the Noctua A9 with 25 mm and crosscompare to the L9i. Note: I do not have a sentry yet, this work would be done in a Node 202.

That would be interesting to see. I'm not too concerned with the difference between AS5 and MX4, most silicone based thermal compounds are within a few degrees of each other. But the liquid metal versus normal thermal compound, that will be a good test. I'm still terrified of using liquid metal for fear of shorting something out, so I'm glad someone has the courage to try.
 
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