Seeking advice from the sages

[goodgod]

Hey,

I'm goodgod, from ocforums and purepwnage forums. I'm finished modding my pc (my first mod and built myself pc) to give it the perfect Pure Pwnage (the internet show, in case you don't know ) style and I'm looking foward to start a new project. I want to include WC inside it because I want to learn more about WC and OC'ing.

I'll probably start this project in a month or so and I'll post the log on these forums for sure. For the moment, I need your advice about the parts I chose and about how all this WC stuff is going to fit in my case.

Specs:
opty 165
A8n-sli
7900gt
2gb ocz platinum
sliverstone 600w modular (I'll sleeve that uv green sleeving + uv red connectors)
Lian-li v1200b w/window (from performance-pcs)

WC:

CPU block: Swiftech Apogee 3/8"

GPU block: DD Acetal Maze 4 3/8" + ramsinks

Pump: MCP350 12v

Rad: BIP3 (top)
3X120mm AC Ryan Rad Grillz

Fans: 3 X panaflo M1A 86 CMF 35 dBA

2 X Coolermaster 120mm LED Silent fan 42.7 CFM 22 dBA (for intake and exhaust)

Reservoir: Thermaltake M3 5.25" res 3/8" fittings

Coolant: cool-cases-usa UV Coolant Brilliant Orange coolant (I heard that it's good, and it's alot cheaper than buying coolant, anti-algae stuff, and anti-corrosion and uv dye as it's all in one)

Tubing: 3/8" ID, what OD is the best to fit (the most common is 5/8" OD, right?)
material: probably primoflex or tygon r3603?

Other: TT t-type temp indicator Linky

I'm going to do some modifications on my case, including the removal of some hdd racks and the top 3X120mm hole for the rad. It should fit easylly on this v1200b because I saw a guy that managed to put the same rad in a v1000 (that blocks 2 5.25" bays and 2 pci slots though)

My theme is going to be green and orange, green for all the IDE/sata/fans/everything cables and orange for the heatshrink and for the coolant. I'm going to paint some stuff inside the case with flexiglow green uv paint.

Setup: Here's a little not-so-good-painted-in-paint picture about my setup.

Basically, I'm going res>pump>t-type indicator>CPU>(NB if I choose to)>GPU>BIP3>res
I'm going to fit my DVD-RW in my last 5.25" bay, then my res, then a 5.25" bay bezel with two green LEDs rocker switches and with the TT temp indicator mounted, to finish with a 7v six switches rheobus for the fans (will use the panaflos at 7v, i want a quiet rig)

The red bars shows what is going to be removed from the case. The purple shows the coolant's flow.

-----QUESTIONS-----
1) Some say that a chipset (NB) WB is useless, other say that it's cool, what do you think? Should i get the DD a8n sli?

2) Is it possible to modify the top of my res a little to make tubing fit on the top hole and connect the res to a top case DD fillport? (that will be easier to fill the thing w/o opening the case )

3) What do you think about the TT M3 res? I want a res that shows the water level and that fits 1 or 2 5.25" bays (I was about to choose the TT M1 but it seems that this thing stops the flow rate too much)

Please comment my upcoming build. And please take a look at my last mod, if you want to:

Thanks!

-Goodgodhttp://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=444079

 

[DFI Daishi]

i reccomend the storm vs the apogee. it will perform a bit better, and you seem to be throwing a good bit of cash into this build. contrary to popular belief, there is no reason that the decrease in flow should noticeably impair performance of GPU and/or chipset blocks.

the a8n is one of the few NF4 boards that you can watercool the chipset on without blocking a PCI-E slot. once you eliminate all the other small fans in the system, the noise from that chipset fan will be clearly audible. i would watercool or passively air cool that chip simply for noise reasons, and of those two options watercooling yields much better temps.

keep in mind that the Tt T-type temperature probe uses compression fittings that will probably require modification for the thick walled tubing that you are planning on using. the T-type temp probe offered by D-tek uses barb fittings and has no such problem.

same concern about using the Tt bayres. plenty of companies make plain plastic bayreses. by cutting into one of the pretty nice aluminium drive bay covers that come with the case, you could generate a similar look/effect to the Tt with the plastic res sitting behind the bay cover.

with a triple rad, you can use some substantially quieter fans without compromising your temps. you would do well to consider yate loon 120mm fans on your controller. they come in black, black and white or bright orange.

rather than using the MCP 350, you should check out it's stronger younger brother, sold as the DDC R2 by d-tek and the DDC ultra by dangerden. it gets like 600 L/h peak flow as compared to the MCP350's 350 L/h.

 

[Justintoxicated]

Yea get the storm over apogee, Or get the Danger Den Flavor, if they have any specials / combios it may be cheaper, with a pump like the D5 or 350 you can get alot of flow the stom will reduce, then again flow definately is not everything! I would imagine that if the flow is slowed down then the fluid is sitting in radiator longer so you would cool less water at a time more rather than more water less. Pressure can be important too.

the TDX is more free flowing and has nozels you can chose from, I chose a less restrictive nozel because I did not want anything lodged in there but I have not sceen a hint of anything floating around in my loop since I made it.

Chose a waterblock that matches your radiator, and chose a radiator that matches your choice in fan, choose a fan that matches your noise / performance tolerances.

Imnot partial to either company as I haver always like swiftech stuff, but now that I got DD TDX and low profile Maze 4 for GPU, for Considerably less money that swiftech and sceen the quality of their parts i think they are another option to look at as well.

If you plan to remove the IHS on your Heatsink get the storm...if not either block is not going to make much of a difference. I like the TDX better than apogee though.

I sealed up my case and don't really notice the noise from the chipset fan with the side panel on, it's there but not very loud. I have a mini fridge in my room and 3 aquariums though, while aquariums are virtualy silent, the minifridge is quite loud in comparison to the chipset fan on my expert under my desk. I went with Panaflo L1A's for the radiator which had the noise / functional compromise I was looking for plus I have them on a fan controller so I can make it silent if needed. MUCH quieter than high RPM air cooling, not compleatly silent though, unless I adjust them on the fan controller..

I kind of want a chipset block though just because I don't like the fact my chipset is way hotter than my CPU and the DD block will work with SLI on the DFI expert.

Another case to look into is the CM Stacker, it is VERY easy to just put a 2x120mm radiator in the front, I sealed my thermochill in place with weather stripping foam and it takes quite a bit of force to remove it, as well as passes the air over my Hard Drives and motherboard.

Does DD still offer that deal on teh TDX if you buy the D5? if so that would be alot cheaper than teh 350 + Apogee and better IMO.

 

[goodgod]

i reccomend the storm vs the apogee. it will perform a bit better, and you seem to be throwing a good bit of cash into this build. contrary to popular belief, there is no reason that the decrease in flow should noticeably impair performance of GPU and/or chipset blocks.

the a8n is one of the few NF4 boards that you can watercool the chipset on without blocking a PCI-E slot. once you eliminate all the other small fans in the system, the noise from that chipset fan will be clearly audible. i would watercool or passively air cool that chip simply for noise reasons, and of those two options watercooling yields much better temps.

keep in mind that the Tt T-type temperature probe uses compression fittings that will probably require modification for the thick walled tubing that you are planning on using. the T-type temp probe offered by D-tek uses barb fittings and has no such problem.

same concern about using the Tt bayres. plenty of companies make plain plastic bayreses. by cutting into one of the pretty nice aluminium drive bay covers that come with the case, you could generate a similar look/effect to the Tt with the plastic res sitting behind the bay cover.

with a triple rad, you can use some substantially quieter fans without compromising your temps. you would do well to consider yate loon 120mm fans on your controller. they come in black, black and white or bright orange.

rather than using the MCP 350, you should check out it's stronger younger brother, sold as the DDC R2 by d-tek and the DDC ultra by dangerden. it gets like 600 L/h peak flow as compared to the MCP350's 350 L/h.

I'm ok with the storm, I tought that it didn't worth the price. For the chipset I'll go for the DD a8n-sli chipset block (what else).

For the t-type, I agree with you and I don't want to mod anything on the water cooling setup as I'm a total newbie to WC. D-tek seems to have none in stock right now, but I hope that they will be back sometimes this summer so I can get one this summer and hook it to a little lcd display on a 5.25" bezel

I'll get a Clear 5.25" bay res (is it any good???), and then mod a bezel for the water level (dremel will do the job ) If I use this res, I'll get all 1/2" fittings (better flow) and some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD masterkleer tubing...but they don't bend much, so maybe i'll get r3603 tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" OD.

For the fans, I was initally looking for arctic cooling AF12 fans (56 CFM @ 23.5 dBA) but people told me to get some panaflos m1a (86 CFM@ 35 dBA)and to run them at 7v so that they would be the same as the arctic cooling ones, but stronger built and more thick.

I could go for Yate loon but the panaflos are better for rads because of their thickness, right? I could choose a queiter model, like the low noise one, that runs 69 CFM @ 30 dBA. That could give a good silent solution at 7v.

For the pump, if I go with the 1/2" fittings and tubing, the mcp655 seems a good choice because it's quiet and efficient. What do you think?

 

[DFI Daishi]

I'll get a Clear 5.25" bay res (is it any good???), and then mod a bezel for the water level (dremel will do the job ) If I use this res, I'll get all 1/2" fittings (better flow) and some 7/16" ID 5/8" OD masterkleer tubing...but they don't bend much, so maybe i'll get r3603 tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" OD.

by and large, one clear plastic bayres is much the same as another. all resevoirs of this type share the weakness of having many glued joins, which make them somewhat prone to failure. enough people use them without a problem that i'm still willing to say that they are a viable option, howeverr i have heard more stories of these things leaking at the seams than with other resevoirs. it SHOULD work, just keep an eye on it.

For the fans, I was initally looking for arctic cooling AF12 fans (56 CFM @ 23.5 dBA) but people told me to get some panaflos m1a (86 CFM@ 35 dBA)and to run them at 7v so that they would be the same as the arctic cooling ones, but stronger built and more thick.

I could go for Yate loon but the panaflos are better for rads because of their thickness, right? I could choose a queiter model, like the low noise one, that runs 69 CFM @ 30 dBA. That could give a good silent solution at 7v.

yate loon fans undervolt better than panaflos, even if they have reduced peak output. the motor control circuits in panaflo fans tend to start singing when undervolted, which yate loons don't ususally. nexus sells yate loon fans wired to run at 9V as their "real silent 120mm" which run at 22 db. three yate loon fans will move enough air that they will not be holding back your performance, and are simply a better match for a triple rad than the panaflo fans.

the black ice pro series of rads is relatively low restriction, and works fine with quiet, low-powered fans like these. i use panaflo fans and BIX2 rads, and they perform well. my system is not as quiet as it could be as a result.

For the pump, if I go with the 1/2" fittings and tubing, the mcp655 seems a good choice because it's quiet and efficient. What do you think?

the MCP655 is a great pump for a 1/2" ID system. the downside is the noise level. while still quieter than most air cooled PCs, at 35 db it will be 10x louder than your rad and fans if you go with dialed down yate loons. a triple rad is only usefull for ultra quiet opperation, and this is not an ultra quie pump. the DDC, on the other hand, is around 22-23 db, which is right in line with what your rad and fans are producing.

so, the D5 is for "yeah, that's pretty quiet" opperation, wheras the DDC is for "is it actually on?" opperation. you already have what should be a quiet PSU, so if you have some quiet HDDs, you could well be looking at something that SPCR would regard as quiet.

 

[goodgod]

by and large, one clear plastic bayres is much the same as another. all resevoirs of this type share the weakness of having many glued joins, which make them somewhat prone to failure. enough people use them without a problem that i'm still willing to say that they are a viable option, howeverr i have heard more stories of these things leaking at the seams than with other resevoirs. it SHOULD work, just keep an eye on it.


yate loon fans undervolt better than panaflos, even if they have reduced peak output. the motor control circuits in panaflo fans tend to start singing when undervolted, which yate loons don't ususally. nexus sells yate loon fans wired to run at 9V as their "real silent 120mm" which run at 22 db. three yate loon fans will move enough air that they will not be holding back your performance, and are simply a better match for a triple rad than the panaflo fans.

the black ice pro series of rads is relatively low restriction, and works fine with quiet, low-powered fans like these. i use panaflo fans and BIX2 rads, and they perform well. my system is not as quiet as it could be as a result.


the MCP655 is a great pump for a 1/2" ID system. the downside is the noise level. while still quieter than most air cooled PCs, at 35 db it will be 10x louder than your rad and fans if you go with dialed down yate loons. a triple rad is only usefull for ultra quiet opperation, and this is not an ultra quie pump. the DDC, on the other hand, is around 22-23 db, which is right in line with what your rad and fans are producing.

so, the D5 is for "yeah, that's pretty quiet" opperation, wheras the DDC is for "is it actually on?" opperation. you already have what should be a quiet PSU, so if you have some quiet HDDs, you could well be looking at something that SPCR would regard as quiet.

These res seems cheap, but is there something i can do to make sure they won't leak? Like use epoxy on the edges or somthing? There are good looking res at voyeurmods where I can buy th DDC pump (hard to find!) 5.25" bay res However this res seems to use G 1/4" threads (that means for 1/4" tubing?)

Can you link where you would buy the yate loons fans, because the only yate loons I find are 30 dBA+

I'm ok with the DDC pump, I want quiet power, and I'll buy this pump at voyeurmods.com

Thanks!

EDIT: I found single-pass BIP3 at voyeurmods, are they better because of less flow restriction? Or less performing?

 

[DFI Daishi]

These res seems cheap, but is there something i can do to make sure they won't leak? Like use epoxy on the edges or somthing? There are good looking res at voyeurmods where I can buy th DDC pump (hard to find!) 5.25" bay res However this res seems to use G 1/4" threads (that means for 1/4" tubing?)

no, G 1/4 threads don't mean for 1/4" tubing, that's actually a pretty common thread size for watercooling equipment. i wouldn't touch that res simply because it is made of aluminium, and therefore will corrode like crazy if your coolant-water mix ratio isn't dead on. those who like to play it safe and know a bit of chemistry use only copper, brass and plastics in their loop, to eliminate any chance of corrosion within the loop.

Can you link where you would buy the yate loons fans, because the only yate loons I find are 30 dBA+

where i would get them is not where you would get them, since i live in canada. http://www.adpmods.com/case-modding/YATE-LOON-120mm-Quiet-Fan-D12SL-12-p-1776.html

i believe that jab-tech is the first retailer to come up when i get out my google stick.

just remember that they're around 30 db at 12V, go down to 22.8 db (official rating) when run at 9V and are who knows how quiet at 7V. there are competing fans that can get as quiet, however at really low noise levels the yate loon moves more air than others.

EDIT: I found single-pass BIP3 at voyeurmods, are they better because of less flow restriction? Or less performing?

some of the better rad reviews going: http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index31.asp#WATER COOLING and they don't seem to have had the x-flow go across their test bench yet. i doubt that the change is harmfull, however i really doubt the benefit.

 

[phide]

The benefits of single-pass radiators are clear, but there aren't many options at the moment, and they can be an incredible hassle to implement in a typical case. Wouldn't advise getting a single-pass until CoolingWorks or ThermoChill makes one (personal choice) with a 10-12 FPI density.

Jab-Tech is great. Very fast, good prices, great service. Yates are about $6 a pop over at Jab-Tech.

And, I hate to be a stickler here Daishi, but it bothers me if the 'B' in 'dB' isn't properly capitalized

 

[goodgod]

no, G 1/4 threads don't mean for 1/4" tubing, that's actually a pretty common thread size for watercooling equipment. i wouldn't touch that res simply because it is made of aluminium, and therefore will corrode like crazy if your coolant-water mix ratio isn't dead on. those who like to play it safe and know a bit of chemistry use only copper, brass and plastics in their loop, to eliminate any chance of corrosion within the loop.

where i would get them is not where you would get them, since i live in canada. http://www.adpmods.com/case-modding/YATE-LOON-120mm-Quiet-Fan-D12SL-12-p-1776.html

i believe that jab-tech is the first retailer to come up when i get out my google stick.

just remember that they're around 30 db at 12V, go down to 22.8 db (official rating) when run at 9V and are who knows how quiet at 7V. there are competing fans that can get as quiet, however at really low noise levels the yate loon moves more air than others.

some of the better rad reviews going: http://www.overclockers.com/topiclist/index31.asp#WATER COOLING and they don't seem to have had the x-flow go across their test bench yet. i doubt that the change is harmfull, however i really doubt the benefit.

Ok for the res, I'll go with with an acrylic one, and i'll mod a bezel for the water level like I said.

For the fans, if I follow your idea, the yate loon fans are good at low speed because they lose less CFM at 7v than other fans, while being very silent, no motor screetching, right?

I found yate loon fans over ebay at 5$ USD, and they ship to canada (I'm from Canada too ) for cheap. That will be cheaper than adpmods, and cheaper than jab-tech that charges so much for international shipping. Should I get more than 3 fans if one breakes?

 

[JokerNut]

GoodGod, from what you said about the res, you are wanting to do what I am going to do with my res and a fill-port. You can pick up an acrylic bay-res that has more than 2 ports. The dual 5.25 bay res (the one I went with) has 6 ports in the back. I think the single 5.25 bay version has 4 ports in the back.

 

[NortHWizarD]

I always use a reservoir in my w/c systems... and typically an acrylic res.. either 5.25 or 3.5 bay size.

with each and every one of them I have either drilled and tapped a hole inteh back of the res, at teh top in a corner, threaded in a fitting and then ran tubing from it to a fill port - that way I never have to try and yank my res half way out to fill it or anything... and if the res already has extra holes for fittings, you are already set... no need to drill and tap... although i always drill and tap them... that way I can get the fillport line to be at the very top of the reservoir, not part way down... just a little easier for filling.

I also use a 'T' or 'Y' fitting at the bottom of my case, hooked to another fillport that is either at teh very bottom of the back panel of the case, or actually mounted in the bottom panel of the case - I use this to make draining the system extremely simple... just open both fillports and let it drain in to a bucket.

~NortH~

 

[goodgod]

I always use a reservoir in my w/c systems... and typically an acrylic res.. either 5.25 or 3.5 bay size.

with each and every one of them I have either drilled and tapped a hole inteh back of the res, at teh top in a corner, threaded in a fitting and then ran tubing from it to a fill port - that way I never have to try and yank my res half way out to fill it or anything... and if the res already has extra holes for fittings, you are already set... no need to drill and tap... although i always drill and tap them... that way I can get the fillport line to be at the very top of the reservoir, not part way down... just a little easier for filling.

I also use a 'T' or 'Y' fitting at the bottom of my case, hooked to another fillport that is either at teh very bottom of the back panel of the case, or actually mounted in the bottom panel of the case - I use this to make draining the system extremely simple... just open both fillports and let it drain in to a bucket.

~NortH~

Interesting, that's better than what I thought, I'll do that with two fillports... I would want to do the top drilling, but what tool do you use to pierce the acrylic so you can screw the fitting in? Or you just glue it on the hole with silicone and epoxy?

Also, do you know what's the best tubing size for 3/8" ID fittings? Like, for 1/2" fittings, people use 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing to make it tight, so for 3/8" fittings that would be 5/16" ID 9/16" OD? Does that work?

Also, is it better to use 1/2" ID by putting 3/8" to 1/2" converters at the beginning of my DDC 3/8" pump?

I was also wondering, when you begin to fill your loop before leaktesting, you put coolant, pump on, pump off, put coolant, etc... till it's completly full, but do you simply plug the pump on your computer and put the loop on the floor (while putting the res at higher point and pump at lower) or do you usually use another PSU with a jumper to fill it that way?

Thanks for your answers!

EDIT: And is a HDD block totally useless?

 

[JokerNut]

If you get one of the bay res. with multiple ports in the back you won't have to drill any extra holes. There are single bay res that have 4 ports in the back. That would allow you to have a inlet, outlet, fill-port, drain-port. You would want to put the inlet and fill port on one side and the outlet and drain-port on the other side. If you really want to drill a hole I have heard people using glass bits to make the holes. I haven't tried them out myself so I really don't know how well they work.

If you are going to be using 3/8" fittings then the most popular tubing size is 3/8" ID. People started using the 7/16" ID tubing because it is more flexible than the 1/2" ID.

I would stick with the same ID through out the loop. That way you won't cause any restrictions in flow. Since your going with the DCC then I would use the 3/8" ID tubing.

As far as fill the loop, I have found that if you fill the loop as much as you can before you turn on the pump. You also need to make sure you tilt your case around to get as much fluid in the loop as well as making sure the fluid has filled the pump. Don't want to run the pump dry. As soon as you can't get any more fluid in the loop then turn the pump on and start to add more fluid, if needed. The rate at which you add the fluid just depends on how much was already in there and how much you need to finish filling the loop. I usually have the loop in the case and the PSU jumped so everything is where it is supposed to be.

All I can say about the HDD blocks is that I can't justify the cost of them. But of course I'm still using IDE HDDs.

 

[DFI Daishi]

All I can say about the HDD blocks is that I can't justify the cost of them. But of course I'm still using IDE HDDs.

before you try and justify the cost, justify the gain.

1) you can passively cool any modern HDD, and it doesn't get any quieter than passively cooled.

2) the added restriction of the HDD blocks in the loop negatively affects the cooling of other components.

3) you're not overclocking your HDD, so as long as it remains below rated temp limit, keeping it extra cool does not net you anything.

so what do you get by watercooling your HDDs? the right to say that you have.

why would you cool your HDDs? because you can. which, i don't mind saying, is about the worst justification for doing something that i have ever heard.

 

[DFI Daishi]

For the fans, if I follow your idea, the yate loon fans are good at low speed because they lose less CFM at 7v than other fans, while being very silent, no motor screetching, right?

nothing but the sound off air moving.

from the designer of the storm family of waterblocks: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1028769843&postcount=250

 

[goodgod]

If you get one of the bay res. with multiple ports in the back you won't have to drill any extra holes. There are single bay res that have 4 ports in the back. That would allow you to have a inlet, outlet, fill-port, drain-port. You would want to put the inlet and fill port on one side and the outlet and drain-port on the other side. If you really want to drill a hole I have heard people using glass bits to make the holes. I haven't tried them out myself so I really don't know how well they work.

If you are going to be using 3/8" fittings then the most popular tubing size is 3/8" ID. People started using the 7/16" ID tubing because it is more flexible than the 1/2" ID.

I would stick with the same ID through out the loop. That way you won't cause any restrictions in flow. Since your going with the DCC then I would use the 3/8" ID tubing.

As far as fill the loop, I have found that if you fill the loop as much as you can before you turn on the pump. You also need to make sure you tilt your case around to get as much fluid in the loop as well as making sure the fluid has filled the pump. Don't want to run the pump dry. As soon as you can't get any more fluid in the loop then turn the pump on and start to add more fluid, if needed. The rate at which you add the fluid just depends on how much was already in there and how much you need to finish filling the loop. I usually have the loop in the case and the PSU jumped so everything is where it is supposed to be.

All I can say about the HDD blocks is that I can't justify the cost of them. But of course I'm still using IDE HDDs.

Nice idea for the res, I'll look foward to buy one of these 4 back ports 5.25" bay clear res.

About the HDD block, that would also be for the silence. As I'm trying to go real silent, the HDD would still make alot of noise... Should I get a HDD enclosure or something (like the nexus)?

Is the Danger Den Acetal GPU block working good with the 7900gt, if I buy the 6800 series acessories?

If I want to hook a water temp probe in a T type fitting (if d-tek doesn't have some in stock), can I just fill the top outlet with some silicone after putting the probe in?

 

[DFI Daishi]

About the HDD block, that would also be for the silence. As I'm trying to go real silent, the HDD would still make alot of noise... Should I get a HDD enclosure or something (like the nexus)?

easier to just apply some stick-on soundproof foam to the walls of the drive compartment.

If I want to hook a water temp probe in a T type fitting (if d-tek doesn't have some in stock), can I just fill the top outlet with some silicone after putting the probe in?

better to use a small rubber stopper with a hole in the middle and some sealant, i would think.

 

[goodgod]

thanks for your help, maybe I'll still buy a nexus drive-a-way enclosure (don't like the too ghetto idea of the foam, because it would be seen throught my window...) , because it shuts down the HDD noise to like 0 dBA, even if it's expensive. I'm going to put alot of my personal money in this project depending on my other's rig selling price, so I won't mind for the price. Are there cheaper enclosures like that nexus that are as good?

 

[DFI Daishi]

thanks for your help, maybe I'll still buy a nexus drive-a-way enclosure (don't like the too ghetto idea of the foam, because it would be seen throught my window...) , because it shuts down the HDD noise to like 0 dBA, even if it's expensive. I'm going to put alot of my personal money in this project depending on my other's rig selling price, so I won't mind for the price. Are there cheaper enclosures like that nexus that are as good?

just wondering but........most case windows that i have seen only open into the upper compartment of the V1200, is yours different?

i also wonder when practical, simple and effective became ghetto. if you do a shitty job cutting and it looks like ass, then it's ghetto. measure and cut to size and you have a smooth and unified matte black surface, and as i said, i don't know when that became ghetto.

and that nexus drive away terrifys me.

 

[goodgod]

just wondering but........most case windows that i have seen only open into the upper compartment of the V1200, is yours different?

i also wonder when practical, simple and effective became ghetto. if you do a shitty job cutting and it looks like ass, then it's ghetto. measure and cut to size and you have a smooth and unified matte black surface, and as i said, i don't know when that became ghetto.

and that nexus drive away terrifys me.

Yes, mine is a little different, because there is no such thing as a pre-made window for the v1200b, except for the one I'm buying at performance-pcs.com, that has that full view window:

I was talking about ghetto because I know I'm not really good with this kinda stuff, and I'll want to do a real clean and professionnal looking job (not imperfect like my current first mod)

The nexus seems a good idea (and doesn't scare me lol ). But does the HDD only make noise by vibration or there is some kind of noise inside it when working?

EDIT: I found that the MCP350 and the DDC pumps seems to be the exact same pump, as they state on voyeurmods

Due to the limited availability of these pumps, sometimes we need to substitute the pump with the Swiftech MCP350 model and vice versa. Both pumps are IDENTICAL and both carry the same warranty and have the same great features.

That means they are the same pumps?

 

[DFI Daishi]

The nexus seems a good idea (and doesn't scare me lol ). But does the HDD only make noise by vibration or there is some kind of noise inside it when working?

and that's just it: the nexus seems like a terrible idea to me: putting a hot running little HDD into a small insulated box with no airflow. that's just asking for a world of hurt. yes, they have two strips of thermally conductive tape in there. great. thermal tape is about as thermally conductive as normal two sided tape, and the adhesive doesn't always make good contact. the tape is also on the opposite side of the drive to the spindle motor, which is the main heat source in the drive.

this is why it terrifys me.

as for noise, there is always some noise from the drive's motor and bearings keeping the platters spinning. there is additional noise when the drive is seeking, but i'm sure that you've noticed that already.

EDIT: I found that the MCP350 and the DDC pumps seems to be the exact same pump, as they state on voyeurmods


That means they are the same pumps?

this is not strictly speaking correct.

the original dangerden DDC is exactly the same as the swiftech MCP350. that is correct.

what dangerden is now selling is the DDC revision 2, or the DDC "plus" which is the pump that i was reccomending that you get earlier. http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=135&cat=23&page=1

alternately, d-tek is selling the DDC revision 2 ( DDC-R2) as well: http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=176&HS=1

this is an 18 watt pump with much greater peak flow (600 litres per hour @ 13.2 volts) and about the same maximum head as the original DDC and the MCP 350.

swiftech, however, has not switched to the newer revision. they still sell the original laing DDC. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp350.asp with 10W power and maximum flow of 350 litres per hour.

 

[goodgod]

and that's just it: the nexus seems like a terrible idea to me: putting a hot running little HDD into a small insulated box with no airflow. that's just asking for a world of hurt. yes, they have two strips of thermally conductive tape in there. great. thermal tape is about as thermally conductive as normal two sided tape, and the adhesive doesn't always make good contact. the tape is also on the opposite side of the drive to the spindle motor, which is the main heat source in the drive.

this is why it terrifys me.

as for noise, there is always some noise from the drive's motor and bearings keeping the platters spinning. there is additional noise when the drive is seeking, but i'm sure that you've noticed that already.


this is not strictly speaking correct.

the original dangerden DDC is exactly the same as the swiftech MCP350. that is correct.

what dangerden is now selling is the DDC revision 2, or the DDC "plus" which is the pump that i was reccomending that you get earlier. http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=135&cat=23&page=1

alternately, d-tek is selling the DDC revision 2 ( DDC-R2) as well: http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=176&HS=1

this is an 18 watt pump with much greater peak flow (600 litres per hour @ 13.2 volts) and about the same maximum head as the original DDC and the MCP 350.

swiftech, however, has not switched to the newer revision. they still sell the original laing DDC. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp350.asp with 10W power and maximum flow of 350 litres per hour.

One guy at 3dgameman forums did a review for the nexus enclosure about the temp and it seems not so bad: he said that this is an average product. link

Another choice would be to use the Alphacool Silentstar hdd water block and enclosure, that seems good enough for noise reducing, but using 1/4" tubing between the two block parts (but G1/4" holes for any fittings, so that's good for my tubing). I don't think that the noise reducing worths the pressure lost. Review

Okay for the pump, I didn't realize that you were talking about rev. 2, I'll definatly buy the DDC plus!

 

[goodgod]

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