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Screws?

M

monk3y

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 14, 2007
Messages
426
Ok so I just sent my case out for powder coating, I drilled out the rivets and tapped the holes with 8-32 threads but I have been thinking the only way to keep the case is with set screws. (not a good idea) Those are really only my option for screws I think. So my question is should I just re-rivet the thing?
 
There is probably no room for screw heads over most of the rivet holes. You could try using coutersunk screws in them but can be a little tricky if you countersink to far. When I take a chassis apart for anodizing or powdercoating I just rerivet it. A pop rivet tool and rivets shouldnt run you more then $25-$30 bucks. You will have to be carefull what size rivets you use because your holes are now bigger then the 1/8 inch rivets that are used to assemble most cases.
 
I don't understand the question...
If you tapped correctly, the two pieces tapped together should be supported by tension and the threads...
 
the problem is the screws can keep the pieces together but I am worried the screws wont hold the case together very tight, since the only thing I can use is set screws
 
I think I understand why you can only use screws. But maybe you should clarify it for everyone else why think you can only use set screws.

One thing to keep in mind about using forums, you need to explain alot that would be very evident if everyone could see what you are talking about. That is why Arcygenical doesn't understand what you are asking.
 
If they were previously riveted I'm assuming you have a thin metal and the tapped holes aren't deep enough to engage a whole thread? And you're using set screws because you need it to be flush? Either way that's the wrong way to use screws as a fastener ...
 
I've never had any problem tapping holes together and using just a screw... It was always a very tight fit, and was quite secure, even with 1mm aluminum.

Perhaps use some sort of tension (a spring or rubber washer) to help keep the threads in place?
 
Oh... I see... Uhm, you can order some special flat head screws... I know they exist for 8-32. Check out fastner express (Google them).

It won't be perfectly level, but it'll probably help a ton.

Truss head 8-32 screws exist, which are about 3mm high at their center.
 
Were the rivets you removed countersunk?
You could possibly countersink them a bit deeper with a large drill bit and install a counter sunk screw. They do make countersinking bits if you prefer not attempting it with a regular drill bit.
You could possibly also put a small nut on the inside instead of relying on the tapped threads
 
the problem is I already sent it off to the powdercoaters, they were countersunk. I am afraid that a screw wont work because the head would stick out to far. I would re-rivet the thing but I am having a hard time finding black rivets.
 
Tell me why a countersunk screw will stick out farther than a countersunk rivet.
 
the problem is I don't want to screw up the finish, and all the counter sunk screws I have seen sit out too far
 
A counter sunk screw will stick out further then a Countersunk rivet because the angle is different, Coutersunk rivet is 120degrees, and Countersunk screw is 82degrees. The angle is measured thru the sides of the cone on the countersink. And because he already tapped the holes #8-32 he will have to use an #8-32 countersunk screw and they are huge.

8-32%20coutersunk.GIF

As you can see just the countersunk part of the bolt is thicker then the amount of material he wants to put back together.

And here are the specs for the rivets that were probably in his machine.

Countersunk%20rivet.gif

McMaster-Carr Part Number: 97524A050 $5.31 per Pack of 100
Rivet Type Blind
Blind Rivet Type Sealing
Rivet Material Aluminum
Rivet Finish Plain
Mandrel Material Steel
Steel Type C1006 - C1010
Aluminum Type Type 5056
System of Measurement Inch
Rivet Material Thickness Range .063" - .125" (1/16" - 1/8")
Diameter .125" (1/8")
Hole Size .129" - .133"
Drill Size #30
Length .341"
Head Style Countersunk
Head Diameter (A) .245"
Head Height (B) .040"
Head Angle 120°
Shear Strength 305 lbs.
Tensile Strength 385 lbs.
Specifications Met Not Rated

I have done a little checking and this rivet may work for you. And I can find no normal countersunk rivet that will work for your holes. You could try to use 1/8th countersunk rivets above to put your case back together again, But they may not grip well because the hole is a little to big.


Edit: I had a thought. it is complicated and would be a pain in the rear to do but it may work for you. Use some slightly longer rivets that can grip thicker material like this one here Part Number: 97517A215. Then on the inside of the case place a 1/8th inch washer before compressing the rivet. This will act as a clamp to reassmble your case if the 1/8th inch rivets don't work in the holes you have.

If the case parts are .040 inches thick, like my Lian-li cases have been, you won't need longer rivets then the ones above.

.040 case outside + .040 case inside + .040 for the rivet = < .125 the maximum grip of the above rivets.



here is what I mean
backed%20up%20rivet.jpg


Yellow = Outside part of case
Green = Inside part of case
Orange = the rivet itself
Red = Rivet expansion mandrel (yes i know it isnt drawn right, SUE ME)
Gray = washer

Any questions?
 
That looks like it will work well, now my only problem is either finding these in black or painting them
 
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