S4 Mini - An ULTRA-SFF Chassis shipping this December!

[redivulpis]

Very tightly! Still a good option for some use-cases.

Pics as promised:
http://i.imgur.com/3mfkUiW.jpg

 

[superblockio]

So, I feel stupid for asking this but... you're using an Intel cooler in that picture and I thought those were too tall for this case because they're like 46mm. Is that some kind of low-profile intel cooler or what?

 

[SaperPL]

Yeah, they're 46mm and yes, they fit like in our case. There should be like 2mm of clearance left there, I think.

 

[updawg]

Finally got the R9 285 ITX in there! Battlefront was running well - I need to do some benchmarks/temp tests. I was idling in the High 30Cs not sure what load looked like.

 

[redivulpis]

So, I feel stupid for asking this but... you're using an Intel cooler in that picture and I thought those were too tall for this case because they're like 46mm. Is that some kind of low-profile intel cooler or what?

Yeah, they're 46mm and yes, they fit like in our case. There should be like 2mm of clearance left there, I think.

I don't have a ruler to confirm, but it definitely fits with very little room to spare. I think the max-height of 40mm is to allow for some room between the cooler and the side panel. I'm pleasantly surprised at the cooling ability so far with the stock sink and the excellent ventilation of the case. Even with my monitor sitting right above the cpu, the system is staying very cool. I haven't really pushed it much yet, but I'll get screenshots as I run stress tests. Right now I have a G4400 installed, but will ultimately swap in an i5 I think, still not sure whether I'm going to go with a standard or a T model. Staying away from a K, for obvious reasons.

 

[superblockio]

Interesting... I wonder if the Cryorig C7 would fit since it's 47mm. Or if that would be practical even if it does.

 

[redivulpis]

Interesting... I wonder if the Cryorig C7 would fit since it's 47mm. Or if that would be practical even if it does.

I can't believe I missed that. I'll take some measurements this evening, and maybe we could get Josh to chime in as well. My concern with this style cooler would be how the fan mounts. with the C7, the fan hub is mounded below the fan in relation to the air flow direction, while stock-Intel-style coolers are inverted, with the motor itself above the fan. That extra mm, might *just* barely fit, but depending on how the fan itself sits within the frame, the case panel might interfere. That said, most of the fans I've handled, even the 15mm thick ones, will have a very tiny amount of space between the tallest point on the actual fan and the frame, so as to allow mounting to a case even without any relieve pressed/cut/punched out. Long shot, but a possibility.

EDIT: When I get home I'm going to take some measurements for sure. For the price of the C7, I might just pick one up to do some real-world tests too. I'd planned on going with an L9i, and I may still, but my experience with the C1 was really good, so if the C7 performs similar Noctua may have a run for their money!

MOAR EDIT: Found this over at Tom's. Apparently the stock i5 (and all sub-i7) coolers are about 50cm including the fan. The one I have installed now is from the G4400 installed now, but I also have an i7/Xeon cooler that's the same height. I've got calipers at home and will report back with measurements as soon as I have them! I am excite.
Tom's HW i5 Stock Cooler

 

[NFC]

I have Intel coolers in my office of all sizes, including many 30mm ones that fit. I have an ultra rare one that has a copper core while being 30mm I put in a system a while back.

Like some of you pointed out, the fans need some space to do there thing...5mm seems to be the minimum...the massive size of the C7 might offset this somewhat, but I am not sure if it would even fit. Some experimenting is in order!

 

[redivulpis]

I have Intel coolers in my office of all sizes, including many 30mm ones that fit. I have an ultra rare one that has a copper core while being 30mm I put in a system a while back.

Like some of you pointed out, the fans need some space to do there thing...5mm seems to be the minimum...the massive size of the C7 might offset this somewhat, but I am not sure if it would even fit. Some experimenting is in order!

I love those copper core sinks! If only they had a better mounting mechanism. Is the one you have a solid slug or just a piece that mates up to the heatspreader? I think I had one of those copper slugs myself but let it go stupidly. Had it zip tied to one of my old AMD rigs and it worked really well.

I took some measurements and determined that there is about 53mm between the pcb of the motherboard and the interior wall of the side panel. The stock Skylake cooler is about 51.5mm, same as the Haswell i7/Xeon cooler I have. Those measurements lead me to think there might be enough room for airflow for that C7. I think I might take one for the team and pick one up to test next week.

 

[NFC]

I love those copper core sinks! If only they had a better mounting mechanism. Is the one you have a solid slug or just a piece that mates up to the heatspreader? I think I had one of those copper slugs myself but let it go stupidly. Had it zip tied to one of my old AMD rigs and it worked really well.

Copper slug. I love them too. They work amazing for a year or so before the fans start making noise.

I took some measurements and determined that there is about 53mm between the pcb of the motherboard and the interior wall of the side panel. The stock Skylake cooler is about 51.5mm, same as the Haswell i7/Xeon cooler I have. Those measurements lead me to think there might be enough room for airflow for that C7. I think I might take one for the team and pick one up to test next week.

That would be great! I would love to put another cooler on the list that is silent and performs well.

 

[superblockio]

Oh man, it makes me super happy that you guys are interested in this. I can't wait to see if it fits / how it performs!

 

[dondan]

I took some measurements and determined that there is about 53mm between the pcb of the motherboard and the interior wall of the side panel.

Then the C7 will not fit, because 53mm - 8mm for socket and cpu will end in 45mm left space.

 

[redivulpis]

Then the C7 will not fit, because 53mm - 8mm for socket and cpu will end in 45mm left space.

Looked back at the product page for the C7 and you're right. Looks like the C7 might be 2mm too tall. I've got to switch out my TIM today anyway, so I'll get some definite measurements from CPU heatspreader to interior of the side panel.

FYI I'm using digital calipers but I'm not a pro at it!

@Superblockio I know what you mean! It's pretty awesome to be on the front lines of exploring the possibilities with this case.

 

[redivulpis]

Question completely unrelated to CPU coolers: Are you guys using resisters on your blugin switches for the LED? I've got mine wired up straight through, but the light is a little on the bright side. Incidentally the wiring diagram on the product's Amazon side wasn't terribly effective. I was able to get the switch to light up even when the system is off though... Rewired everything to set the light to indicate the power is on. After the initial powerup when the CPU fan spools up to coasting speed the thing is practically silent even after a run of P95! Not bad for a chunk of milled Al.

 

[NFC]

Question completely unrelated to CPU coolers: Are you guys using resisters on your blugin switches for the LED? I've got mine wired up straight through, but the light is a little on the bright side. Incidentally the wiring diagram on the product's Amazon side wasn't terribly effective. I was able to get the switch to light up even when the system is off though... Rewired everything to set the light to indicate the power is on. After the initial powerup when the CPU fan spools up to coasting speed the thing is practically silent even after a run of P95! Not bad for a chunk of milled Al.

I'm a huge ....fan....of the BOX coolers.

 

[redivulpis]

I'm a huge ....fan....of the BOX coolers.

/facepalm Oh, You.

 

[iFreilicht]

Question completely unrelated to CPU coolers: Are you guys using resisters on your blugin switches for the LED? I've got mine wired up straight through, but the light is a little on the bright side. Incidentally the wiring diagram on the product's Amazon side wasn't terribly effective. I was able to get the switch to light up even when the system is off though... Rewired everything to set the light to indicate the power is on.

I don't, but I've done this in the past and it works like with every other LED. It doesn't matter where you put the resistor, it doesn't matter in which orientation you put it in. Even if you choose one that is too strong, the worst that can happen is that the LED doesn't light up. Get a few and try them out until you find the light level you light.
Alternatively, you could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) which you could mount to the back of the case somewhere to trim the brightness exactly to your needs.

 

[hyperborea]

Hey guys,

Came here looking for some inspiration for a new mini ITX build and now I've got my sights set on an S4. Tentative part list:

Intel Core i7 6700T + Zalman CNPS2X
Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX
Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 SSD
HDPLEX 250W + Dell DA330PM111 330W

The plan would be to use it as a media PC connected to my 1080p projector with the integrated graphics for now, with an upgrade path to a GTX 970 mini or potentially even a Pascal card by the time the Oculus Rift comes out around June. That said, it might just make more sense to wait, so I don't know.

@updawg - Great looking box, cable management is tops

 

[redivulpis]

I don't, but I've done this in the past and it works like with every other LED. It doesn't matter where you put the resistor, it doesn't matter in which orientation you put it in. Even if you choose one that is too strong, the worst that can happen is that the LED doesn't light up. Get a few and try them out until you find the light level you light.
Alternatively, you could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) which you could mount to the back of the case somewhere to trim the brightness exactly to your needs.

Not a bad idea. I still have one of the resistors from the 2 switches I bought, no idea what rating they are. Radioshack is around the corner though!

Hey guys,

Came here looking for some inspiration for a new mini ITX build and now I've got my sights set on an S4. Tentative part list:

Intel Core i7 6700T + Zalman CNPS2X
Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX
Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 SSD
HDPLEX 250W + Dell DA330PM111 330W

The plan would be to use it as a media PC connected to my 1080p projector with the integrated graphics for now, with an upgrade path to a GTX 970 mini or potentially even a Pascal card by the time the Oculus Rift comes out around June. That said, it might just make more sense to wait, so I don't know.

@updawg - Great looking box, cable management is tops

Looks good. Similar to my original plan actually!

 

[peepeedog]

Not a bad idea. I still have one of the resistors from the 2 switches I bought, no idea what rating they are. Radioshack is around the corner though!



Looks good. Similar to my original plan actually!

How are you guys sourcing your 6700T trays? I can't seem to find them anywhere. There are a couple of 6500T from ebay EU, and a bunch of them from China, but nothing from more reputable sellers.

If you guys have a link please share!

Cheers
Shaun

 

[hyperborea]

How are you guys sourcing your 6700T trays? I can't seem to find them anywhere. There are a couple of 6500T from ebay EU, and a bunch of them from China, but nothing from more reputable sellers.

If you guys have a link please share!

Cheers
Shaun

CDW has them in stock, as well as a few stores in Germany:
https://www.cdw.com/shop/products/Intel-Core-i7-6700T-2.8-GHz-processor/3887817.aspx

Check this thread: http://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/109901-i7-6700t-availability

 

[iFreilicht]

How are you guys sourcing your 6700T trays? I can't seem to find them anywhere. There are a couple of 6500T from ebay EU, and a bunch of them from China, but nothing from more reputable sellers.

If you guys have a link please share!

This is a pretty complete list of every reseller that has it in the EU:

http://geizhals.eu/intel-core-i7-6700t-cm8066201920202-a1261888.html

Actually, there seems to be no boxed version of this CPU sold here.

 

[NFC]

I've had to turn to eBay thus far. It is disappointing.

 

[redivulpis]

CDW could a a good option, since I'm not too crazy about shipping overseas. Then again, I had great luck with a similarly low-power tier AMD apu I bought a few years ago on eBay from a guy in Spain, so I guess it's not *that* much of a risk. CDW's prices look a lot better than eBay's too.

 

[keeif]

Very cool case and thread. It's especially interesting to see what you guys are doing with dc-dc power supplies.

A side thought on this - I'd like a case that's a hybrid of the Dan A4 and this - with the mobo and gpu sandwiched but designed for dc-dc PSUs and compact GPUs. I think a case that shape would be better for desktop use.

Turns out there is enough room up top to where I didn't need to shorten any cables...and I don't think it would make much of a difference in terms of cooling in a stock chassis.

All I did was dye the HDPLEX wires black (ran out of dye but it looks fine with the cover on).

So if anyone is interested in what a fully wired system looks like in addition to what has been posted:

That looks great - nice job!

Any chance you could share more about dying wires? I didn't know this was possible. Any threads or guides you can link?

 

[NFC]

Very cool case and thread. It's especially interesting to see what you guys are doing with dc-dc power supplies.

A side thought on this - I'd like a case that's a hybrid of the Dan A4 and this - with the mobo and gpu sandwiched but designed for dc-dc PSUs and compact GPUs. I think a case that shape would be better for desktop use.



That looks great - nice job!

Any chance you could share more about dying wires? I didn't know this was possible. Any threads or guides you can link?

NFC TRADE SEKRITS

I'll make a guide for Youtube...great idea. I've been doing it for years....

Go buy yourself a can of VHT Vinyl Dye at an automotive store or off Amazon. It's the brand I use for superior results.

Then you just spray your wires down, and within 5 mins they take the dye. In 15 mins you can handle them! Just don't spray in your house...man it stinks...

For more professional jobs just get a good quality black dye and drop your cables in a bucket of it. It's great because it doesn't stick too much to the metal contacts and cause resistance.

 

[NFC]

So I've been using the Zotac 970 in my chassis this week and it performs great!

The shroud is a little long on it, and darn well pointless. Rather than bending it back, I decided to do a bit of modding and use a Scythe slim fan to cool the GPU down.

As you can see, there is AMPLE room for the connectors:

 

[keeif]

NFC TRADE SEKRITS

I'll make a guide for Youtube...great idea. I've been doing it for years....

Go buy yourself a can of VHT Vinyl Dye at an automotive store or off Amazon. It's the brand I use for superior results.

Then you just spray your wires down, and within 5 mins they take the dye. In 15 mins you can handle them! Just don't spray in your house...man it stinks...

For more professional jobs just get a good quality black dye and drop your cables in a bucket of it. It's great because it doesn't stick too much to the metal contacts and cause resistance.

Haha. Thank you! I'm definitely going to try this - not a fan of sleeving, myself.


I did find this guide on makezine you may be interested in. They use pvc cleaner or methyl ethyl ketone and mix a dye in it.

 

[NFC]

Crazy deal for the Voodoo 350w power brick.

I've been buying these for $50 + !!! Went to ebay today to pick up another and saw this.

 

[SaperPL]

So I've been using the Zotac 970 in my chassis this week and it performs great!

As you can see, there is AMPLE room for the connectors:

Just for the record - Zotac's and Galax 970's have normal reference sized pcb - the problem of oversized pcb is with the asus and gigabyte's 970's

 

[NFC]

I don't want people to be confused. So far we have two variants of the 970 fitting. The Zotac, and the Gigabyte. I have two customers who were purchasing the Asus 970, but I haven't heard back from them weeks after they got their chassis. No news is good news I guess.

My S4 just came in!!!!!

So excited, this thing is really beautiful.

I know there has been a ton of talk as to whether a 970 will fit in here. I am glad to report back that there is a ton of room for side peg video cards.

If you plug the connector in first and then put the card in, it makes life alot easier but honestly it wasn't even a challenge to get it in there.

Look out for my full build log in a couple of days. I am so excited to see my temps first!

Thanks Josh!

 

[peepeedog]

Just spent the last two days fiddling with my S4 - and to think I thought the NCase M1 was a challenging build! My goal was to build a decent PC/Console that would satisfy the needs of the average gamer, so a balanced build was the theme.

Specs:
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H170 Mini-ITX - I chose this for a few reasons. It had an M.2 slot which was important as I didn't want the extra SATA cables in such a small build. It also has USB type-c, which is a nice forward looking inclusion on Gigabyte's part. It also had 2 ethernet ports that could potentially be useful for netowrking enthusiasts for teaming etc.

Intel i5-6500 - I am unable to get any T variants locally, so a 65W CPU will suffice.

16GB Corsair 2400 MHz Vengeance LPX - Overkill for the average consumer, but DDR4 prices are definitely plummeting!

Samsung 850 EVO M.2 256GB

GTX 960 - now this was difficult decision to make - i decided on the EVGA 960 vs any 970s because of 2 reasons. 1) The average gamer theme and 2) saving some cash for any big FinFET GPUs this year The 960 is fine for most 1080P gaming anyway, and what's wrong with playing games in Med settings!

Also using the scythe fan as recommended by Josh, and the Zalman cooler, though i did buy the low profile noctua just in case.

Some thoughts:
1) Plan your build in detail, and watch Josh's build guide from start to finish BEFORE starting. Especially so for HDPlex users. There's a portion 3/4 way through the video where he goes "you would probably want to do this before installing the system", but at that point if you did follow him step by step, you would have almost all your components already in. Essentially, if you're using HDPlex, you will need to remove the 2 bolts/screws on the inner panel for the HDPlex to sit in.

2) It's easy to widen the pre drilled holes meant for the pico to accomodate the HDPlex. Just use a small drill bit 2.5mm/3mm and wear out the sides.

3) The area surrounding the GPU is actually pretty "spacious", that's a good place to chuck wires.

4) I got my own PCIE riser as I forgot to order it from Josh. a long one is perfectly fine, just bend it (see photo). Works surprisingly well as a wire shroud.

5) For some reason, i was unable to use any third party PCIE cables for the HDPlex - I noticed corsair/evga PCIE cables had 1 terminal missing from the 8pin PCIE connector, whereas HDPlex had all 8 terminals. While using the corsair PCIE cable, HDPlex would not boot. I initially thought the mobo or HDPlex was faulty, but after testing wire by wire I figured out it was the PCIE cable. (I wanted the red sleeved cables from corsair).

6) It helps to dismantle the entire case while installing all the components. I had trouble removing those 2 bolts for the HDPlex as they were pretty deep into the outer casing.


I'll run some benchmarks in the coming days and share my results!

Some suggestions:
It's a really small thing, but I think it would've been more complete to ship the case with any required screws i.e. 6-32, and also preinstall the vandal switch - but yes, i understand this is more of a tinkerer's case, just my two cents.

All in all, it's definitely one of the most beautiful cases i've worked on, and thus far the most challenging space wise. I can't wait for Pascal and Polaris, where we probably could squeeze in a 980/Fury performance within the power limit of the HDPlex. Thanks once again Josh, you've been awesome brother.

 

[NFC]

Thank you so much for your support and for sharing your thoughts!

I need to make another video and include some instructions--I've found that all the studs can be removed by hand...BUT THERE IS A TRICK TO IT!!!!

The inner chassis presses against the stud and keeps it from being removed. It feels like they are glued in and they are hard to remove even with pliers!

After removing the nut, grasp the stud tightly and while unscrewing, wiggle the stud back and forth.

I dunno why this works, but I've been successful at it several times.

I'm very sorry there weren't enough screws. I'll double check next time and make sure everyone gets six, 6-32 screws in with the other ones!!! Thanks for the feedback.

 

[peepeedog]

As promised, I ran some benchmarks and took some temps.

CPU: I5-6500
GPU: GTX 960

Tests:
CPU: Prime95 26.6
GPU: Unigine Valley 1.0

Running unigine valley 1.0 the GPU hits 80 degrees celcius and i guess it throttles here because it doesn't go any higher, but framerates are pretty alright.

I then ran Prime95 overnight with no issues whatsoever regarding power delivery or temps.System is stable. I ran all three - small, large ffts and blend.

Obviously the 960 doesn't draw that much power, but this is extremely decent for 1080P gaming. Will it run crysis? Not sure.

 

[NFC]

Thanks, Peepeedog!

I super appreciate all the build info because it helps me out greatly linking potential customers.

Your build combo is one that I particularly like...sqeezing as much power out of a PicoPSU (without modding)!

I like those numbers too.

 

[NFC]

I have been working on a new powder for months, and we have had many problems getting it perfect.

A couple weeks ago I decided that I liked it so much that I was going to commit to redoing a large number of my S4 inventory in it. My goal is to deliver a luxury powdercoat with the attention to detail of a one-off, but at a fraction of the price of a custom job. We have had disaster after disaster, but it looks like I still might make the target of $50-$55 premium, as opposed to the $170 it would take to do this particular powder in a one-off.

So let's talk about the powder. This is a wrinkle that is formulated to be incredibly durable--like truck bumper durable. Of course a good powder without good prep is useless, but all these panels are brushed BY HAND, chem dipped, acid bathed, and pre-baked. This is how the factory should have done my panels, but I digress...

In diffuse light like you would find in an office, the panel looks similar to the stock powdercoat, albeit a handsome dark grey:

Flat, diffuse lighting in my office:

While nice, this is not...Not From Concentrate special. It needs to have some pizazz while remaining classy. Luckily, this powder has some tricks up it's sleeve. Tilt the powder and it adopts a metallic sheen, like polished lead:

Still stealthy, classy, and monochrome...three of my favorite things. But what if I told you that along with Teflon and diamond dust there is vampire blood infused in the panels, that only appears in bright sunlight?

Also notice how the panel is looking even more "gunmetal" in the sunlight:

Don't worry, ALL the vampires in Twighlight were harmed in the making of this powder.


It really is almost impossible to photograph, and you have to take tons of shots to convey the properties it has. I hate the cop-out of saying it looks WAY better in person, but...it does look WAY better in person. I am super duper proud of it, and now we just need to work out a few kinks before it goes up in the store.

Thanks for looking!

 

[yoyo0221]

I have been working on a new powder for months, and we have had many problems getting it perfect.

I really like it. I was on the fence about getting the case because I have so many already, some not even in use but the color on this one is amazing. I may have to pick one up now

 

[redivulpis]

T___T It's beautiful. Part of me wishes I'd waited, but I'm still thrilled with my Model-T Edition

 

[NFC]

If I had planned on doing this from the start I would have let everyone know...but it is kinda an evolution, you know? So I am really sorry to make my first customers feel left out!

 

[redivulpis]

No worries, like you said it's an evolution, an organic process. This is your art!

Anyway, finally got my Voodoo 350W power brick in today and holy cow this thing is a monster!