Rust in radiator? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Krazy_Joe

Limp Gawd
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Jun 29, 2004
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how can you tell if you have rust in your radiator besides it leaking. :confused: My Cpu block rusted for those who read my previous thread already know because of faulty fluid xp which did not do its job of corrosion prevention in only 5 months usage :eek: . Now that I have decided to use hydrx im having to buy a new polarflo TT because it corroded it shut and im unable to remove the corroded aluminum parts. The copper base was not corroded badly... little discolored (tarnished) but not eroded away from what I can see through the ports. Im guessing copper is better at resisting corrosion than aluminum. The aluminum barbs on the polarflo took a beating. My only concern is my Black ice xtreme radiator. I cant tell if it was corroded or not. It hasnt leaked so that is a good sign. But im wondering how to get the rust off if there is any on the inside? Will i have to clean all the rust out to prevent further corrosion? From what I see inside (through port holes) it is brownish colored and smooth. Doesn't look corroded or rough surface. I cant remember what it looked like when it was new inside.

So what should i do?!

Also, im buying the copper limited edition polarflo TT block with chrome barbs... I figure this will help prevent corrosion better than the plain aluminum top i bought before. Hopefully with the hydrx this will not be an issue!! I heard chrome helps prevent corrosion better than the brushed aluminum ports. Is this true? Also, im thinking of putting teflon tape on the threads of the barbs and the threads around the copper top when i get the new block (incase of corrosion so I dont have to buy a new block again). Does anyone think this would be a bad idea?
 
Ok well that brownish color you see is probably just from the copper metal dying the water. Very common, it is not rust. Also, aluminum does not rust, it oxidizes and that depends on the quality of the aluminum too.
Copper is the way to go, it's the best for dissipating heat. Although you should not be seeing corrosion at all in only 5 months time! Maybe the type of fluid your using isn't working properly. Automotive coolant has chemicals that actually speed up corrosion process to metals. So I would suggest distilled water and any type of alcohol.
 
When you have galvanic corrosion, only the 'anodic' metal rots. In your case, the aluminum was eaten away and the copper just got its normal oxide coating. Your BIX should be fine.

You may have some aluminum oxide sand from the corroded top in BIX, but it's not really a big deal. Any particles that don't flush out with some water won't come loose in loop, won't cause corrosion, and won't affect cooling.

Hydrx will stop it from happening again, as will 10% antifreeze, or Zerex Super Racing Coolant, or Redline Waterwetter, or Purple Ice, etc. etc.

Teflon tape is a bad plan. As you screw stuff together, the threads can shred the tape. Shreds of tape can plug stuff up. If you want to put something in the threads, use silicon sealer (like for aquariums) or a paste/putty type thread sealer (ask the guy in the plumbing aisle for 'pipe dope' - seriously that's what they call it).
 
you guys are great... thanks for the quick response!! Im so happy i wont have to buy a new radiator also!! Yeah im going for all copper block while its available... since its a limited edition! That fluid xp crap is utter garbage!!! I will take pictures to post... you guys wont believe what it did to the barbs in only 5 months!! I knew I must have had a bad batch.... after about 1 or 2 months of use it started getting merky and milky colored with white sedimate. I really should have changed it out then but I was thinking to myself hey I spend 35 bucks on this shizzle so i better use it. Big mistake!! I guess on a brighter note that im going to have a better polarflo TT now.
 
Yup good call, HeThatKnows. Also RTV (silicone based) would work. Hack I use it to build engines! ;) Although I am using teflon tape at the moment on the rig. It seems fine and with a 1/2" system, I doubt a little tape would clog it up. I might as well switch it to RTV though while I have everything apart.
 
Deanob said:
Ok well that brownish color you see is probably just from the copper metal dying the water. Very common, it is not rust. Also, aluminum does not rust, it oxidizes and that depends on the quality of the aluminum too.
Copper is the way to go, it's the best for dissipating heat. Although you should not be seeing corrosion at all in only 5 months time! Maybe the type of fluid your using isn't working properly. Automotive coolant has chemicals that actually speed up corrosion process to metals. So I would suggest distilled water and any type of alcohol.
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its not the color of the water... I emptyed the water out
 
the copper block was also brownish colored similar to my radiator... not shinny like when new.... is this tarnish or corrosion?
 
Sorry Krazy, what I meant to say is, yes. That's just tarnish your seeing. It's just a film left over from your chemicals in the water additives you used and also from the copper radiator. I was really wondering how you could have had corriosion so quickly! Heck, our cars dont rust that fast here in Ontario where we use tons of salt on our roads in the winter.
 
Deanob said:
Sorry Krazy, what I meant to say is, yes. That's just tarnish your seeing. It's just a film left over from your chemicals in the water additives you used and also from the copper radiator. I was really wondering how you could have had corriosion so quickly! Heck, our cars dont rust that fast here in Ontario where we use tons of salt on our roads in the winter.
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I dont know... that fluid xp could have been contaminated. Thats the only thing i can think of.
 
Ok guys, so the hydrx should take care of my problems... ive already mixed up 1 bottle to 1 L of distilled water and its ready to go once i get my new block
 
If you haven't yet, I would flush your system out with a mixture of Simple Green and Distilled Water. I like to start fresh, and this will clean the loop out pretty well...
 
Maximus825 said:
If you haven't yet, I would flush your system out with a mixture of Simple Green and Distilled Water. I like to start fresh, and this will clean the loop out pretty well...
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off-topic...

Simple Green is some good shit. Cleans just about anything and everything. Non toxic, which is a plus if you have pets. Smells kinda good too :p
 
simple green is good but if you need some really tough stuff go for castrol super clean. It will take grime of metal in one whipe. :D
 
Deanob said:
Although I am using teflon tape at the moment on the rig. It seems fine and with a 1/2" system, I doubt a little tape would clog it up.
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You should see what it can do to a microchannel block like the Nexxos XP. Also plays hell on the RBX/TDX nozzle #5. Nothing like a block that acts like a water filter.
 
HeThatKnows said:
Teflon tape is a bad plan. As you screw stuff together, the threads can shred the tape. Shreds of tape can plug stuff up. If you want to put something in the threads, use silicon sealer (like for aquariums) or a paste/putty type thread sealer (ask the guy in the plumbing aisle for 'pipe dope' - seriously that's what they call it).
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I hate pipe dope. You're absolutely right, of course, I use the stuff throughout my watercooling system wherever there are threads, but I still hate pipe dope. It's the messiest substance in the universe. Anything you get it on will only spread it to everything else they touch, especially your fingers. Wear work clothes if you're gonna mess with it. Teflon tape does shred, but it won't get into the coolant because of the way threads work, they push it out more than in. Pipe dope is probably the best stuff to seal threaded connections, but I've considered tape just so I wouldn't have to clean it up.

Pipe dope never comes off. Ever. It just multiplies wherever a surface that can be ruined exists.
 
do you guys think i will have any corrosion problems with a copper polarflo TT with chrome barbs? Ive heard chrome is better for corrosion protection vs regular barbs.
 
Chrome is for looks or for mechanical wear resistance. For galvanic corrosion, it will neither help nor hurt.
 
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