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Running warm.

LOCO LAPTOP

LOCO LAPTOP

[H]F Junkie
2FA
Joined
May 4, 2006
Messages
13,302
I know a overclocked quad makes alot of heat... But has I later find out by adding a temp monitor in my water tank that not only does it run warm but water temps run at 100F when playing crysis and 80F when idle. That not the only problem, my cpu temps are at 50C idle and load goes 70C if not more. With all that the room temp is at 73F.

My current setup is set like: tank>pump>cpu>chipset>vga>vga>rad>rad>tank.

I have 2 ThermoChill PA120.3 along with 6 coolermaster case fans, That where the problem comes in. The air is cold but the radiators are warm :confused: which may cause my cpu to run hot?
Also my cpu waterblock is a Swiftech Apogee GT.

My current temprature when water is running at 79.4F
Cpu: 51C (3.4Ghz, 1360FSB, 1.45V Cpu voltage and 1.4FSB voltage.)
chipset: 36C
VGA:1 41C (overclocked 650/1620/1000 + SLI)
VGA:2 37C (overclocked 650/1620/1000 + SLI)

Just to cut this short since I don't know what else to put down that can help and pics will be posted on if requested...

All I would like to know Is there a posible way without going phase that can help lower the temps while keeping my overclocks or even higher?

Thanks.
 
Um, that looks great for that loop. My two MCR320's have trouble keeping just my Q6600 at 3.6ghz (1.37v) under 60C. Your CPU is well under dangerous temperatures, and your cards are very cool. If anything, make it dual loop and give the CPU its own dedicated 120.3/pump/res.
 
Dethred said:
Um, that looks great for that loop. My two MCR320's have trouble keeping just my Q6600 at 3.6ghz (1.37v) under 60C. Your CPU is well under dangerous temperatures, and your cards are very cool. Why change anything?
Click to expand...

Because I can push my quad harder but I have to put more voltage which leads to about 55C idle 80C load if I do 1400FSB. I done it before to 1500FSB but I had my AC right on it. with a nice 26C cpu temp. and yes my video cards have nice temps vs air.

Edit: 76C at 100% cpu usage. What is the limit I should stop at 85C?
 
I wouldn't go any higher than 80 personally, but seriously buy a pump and res and split the loop.
 
Dethred said:
I wouldn't go any higher than 80 personally, but seriously buy a pump and res and split the loop.
Click to expand...

I found that my CPU is the only one going up in temps. my chipset and vga cards stayed the same temp. before I buy a new the new pump and all, Do you think my CPU waterblock is the problem to the high temp? if so what is the best waterblock currently out?
 
Dtek Fuzion block would help a good deal, but won't be the end to your problems. 2 graphics cards and a chipset dumping heat into the loop will increase temps. If you had a dedicated loop to get the cards out of the CPU loop, you'd see a difference. Start with a Dtek Fuzion and if that doesn't get you where you want, then split the loops.

PS: Remember the Quads run very hot. My loop in my sig keeps my Quad at about 35-40 idle and 60-62 load.
 
Dethred said:
Dtek Fuzion block would help a good deal, but won't be the end to your problems. 2 graphics cards and a chipset dumping heat into the loop will increase temps. If you had a dedicated loop to get the cards out of the CPU loop, you'd see a difference. Start with a Dtek Fuzion and if that doesn't get you where you want, then split the loops.

PS: Remember the Quads run very hot. My loop in my sig keeps my Quad at about 35-40 idle and 60-62 load.
Click to expand...

im not worryed about that... I still got some 6 month old Black Ice XtremeIII Radiators laying around :p
 
Hell yes, if you can afford to throw those into a VGA loop somehow (space requirements?), then you'd be golden.
 
Over 50c at idle/76c load seems high considering you have a mild overclock of just 3.4Ghz, for a QX CPU.

You've said the radiators are running 'warm' and that would normally be the main problem except that you've said the "true" water temp is just 79.4F which is fine. If this is the case, the heatload isn't overwhelming your system's cooling capacity. Am assuming that the figure of 79.4F represents your true water temp taken after loop temps stablize after several hours of load (if that's not the case, you need to provide the real figure). Furthermore two PA120.3's should provide plenty of cooling capacity. (I'm assuming you aren't one of those extreme silence enthusiasts deliberately running undervolted fans at very low RPM. And assuming the fans are pushing or pulling cool air through the rads. Are you blowing cool air through the radiators?)

So if it's not the rads/fans, that leaves the waterblock and the circulation level (i.e. pump/tubing).

Can you confirm your pump is circulating the water fairly quickly and no obvious kinks in the tubing restricting flow? An air bubble should freely flow through your loop and take well below a minute to do so.

That leaves the waterblock. Have you tried reseating it? If you manually apply pressure to the CPU waterblock do the temps reduce?


EDIT: I obviously can't read well today....Just noticed you said true water temps stablize at 100f/38c which indicates your heatload may be exceeding your system's cooling capacity (and why your rads are warm) and that, somehow, your double Thermochill 120.3's aren't shedding heat fast enough. In which case, you need to check why. If you're undervolting your fans (like I do), remove the undervolting. If you're not undervolting, check that your rads are not being starved of fresh air. Suggest you check airflow and ensure your fans are passing cool air from outside the case through the rad and not the other way around.
 
echn111 said:
EDIT: I obviously can't read well today....Just noticed you said true water temps stablize at 100f/38c which indicates your heatload may be exceeding your system's cooling capacity (and why your rads are warm) and that, somehow, your double Thermochill 120.3's aren't shedding heat fast enough. In which case, you need to check why. If you're undervolting your fans (like I do), remove the undervolting. If you're not undervolting, check that your rads are not being starved of fresh air. Suggest you check airflow and ensure your fans are passing cool air from outside the case through the rad and not the other way around.
Click to expand...
Well my fans are running at 1200 RPM and air flow of 44.73 cfm (no undervolting and still at 19.1 dBa) They are in a pull cfg (from the front of the case).
 
LOCO LAPTOP said:
Well my fans are running at 1200 RPM and air flow of 44.73 cfm (no undervolting and still at 19.1 dBa) They are in a pull cfg (from the front of the case).
Click to expand...

1200rpm's sound fine. Is it pulling air from 'outside' the case through the rad? Any obstructions in front of the fan such as a grill?
 
That grill looks fine. Have a similar setup, but with one less GPU but a higher OC. So if that extra GPU is causing that much of an increase in heat you've only got a few options: increase your cooling capacity either by increasing fan speed (or maybe get better fans; don't know the coolermaster fans well; regardless of the CFM under open air conditions, WC fans need to produce sufficient static pressure to be effective...that's why people like yates), remove the NB from the loop, get another rad, or live with it and limit your overclock. I'd add another rad. Good luck whatever you choose.
 
Well, again, my Quad hits 60-61C under full small FFT load after a few hours and I have it only 200mhz higher (probably lower voltage though). I bet the difference is the block and the 2 video cards in the loop. The CPU is probably putting out around 150W of heat, the Video cards are putting out at least double that... What is the max thermal capacity of those two radiators?


Split the loop into a video card/chipset loop and a CPU loop.
 
I added a 3rd radiator and change from water to prestone as my liquid :eek:. it lowered the water by 2F(dont have fans on it since I dont have any.) I will also order new fans. maybe highspeed yate.
 
What's the mixture of prestone to water?

Also, I've only got a triple radiator and a single BIP and It keeps my quad under 60 at full load.

The problem is probably between the CPU and the WB somehow.

Whats your room temperature. Can you quote things in Celsius? Fahrenheit bites the big one.
 
Arcygenical said:
What's the mixture of prestone to water?

Also, I've only got a triple radiator and a single BIP and It keeps my quad under 60 at full load.

The problem is probably between the CPU and the WB somehow.

Whats your room temperature. Can you quote things in Celsius? Fahrenheit bites the big one.
Click to expand...
Mixture when I got it was already at 50/50. I didnt want something to strong to start cracking everything.

Curently:
Room temp 22C (71F) If I want I could bring it down to 15C I done it before ;)
Water temp 25C (78F)
CPU: 44C
NB: 34C
GPU1: 41C
GPU2: 37C

Now I got 3 triples doing the job and I did look at the cpu waterblock when cleaning. reapplyed AS5 and toke apart the waterblock to be sure it was clean. I am looking into the fans and may look into a new waterblock.
 
Ok Im gonna take pics of my computer later since Im as school.... anyway I now have all 4 rads I should order the fans tonight... I toke my waterblock apart again and found a small piece of metal and a then one of the spring was bigger then the other ones After all that it the cpu temp lowered about 3-4C :rolleyes:
 
Prestone has WORSE cooling properties than water alone. Just taking the 50/50 mixture and running it straight is a very bad idea. It should be used as an additive to distilled water, usually as a light corrosion inhibitor and biocide. Prestone should not be your primary coolant.
 
Don't listen to stain.

Get a Dtek Fuzion and separate the video cards from the CPU, you will see a huge difference.
 
Erasmus354 said:
Prestone has WORSE cooling properties than water alone. Just taking the 50/50 mixture and running it straight is a very bad idea. It should be used as an additive to distilled water, usually as a light corrosion inhibitor and biocide. Prestone should not be your primary coolant.
Click to expand...

Link?

Dethred said:
Don't listen to stain.

Get a Dtek Fuzion and separate the video cards from the CPU, you will see a huge difference.
Click to expand...
ok, stop telling me about changing them to separate cooling. I dont have the time to play with all that right now. :(

I will get the Dtek Fuzion alone with the fans soon.

Also PICS!
img0048xo5.jpg

img0049mn9.jpg
 
LOCO LAPTOP said:
Link?
Click to expand...

its true, automotive coolant, or antifreeze as it is also known, is pretty much good for lubricating the pump, inhibiting rust/corrosion, and lowering the freezing point. it actually also lowers the temperature at which water boils and is worse than straight water for conducting heat. racers (real race cars, not fast and furious) use very little antifreeze in their cooling systems if any.
 
Ok all done for. I got my Dtek block and my 12 Yate Loon fans.
IMG_0061.jpg

IMG_0062.jpg


temps-1.jpg

The voltage is really 1.55V

Oh and I overclocked a bit more :D
 
The amount of heat exchange potential you have is absolutely disgusting. Lol.

You sure your loop doesn't Tee off towards the closest nuclear reactor cooling station?
 
Arcygenical said:
The amount of heat exchange potential you have is absolutely disgusting. Lol.

You sure your loop doesn't Tee off towards the closest nuclear reactor cooling station?
Click to expand...

haha. who knows. I may help power florida. ;)

kidding.

I know that its heavy. :rolleyes:
 
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