• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

Refilling a AIO cooler

Koween

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 24, 2012
Messages
486
I have a few broken AIO coolers and one that's fully working. I would like to reuse the radiators from broken ones. The problem is that they use copper plates on waterblocks and aluminium radiators. As far as I know that's supposed to be very problematic, but I have a 5 year old h100i that's still working perfectly, which means Corsair uses some special anti-corrosive liquid or galvanic corrosion is just not a big deal.
Now, what would you say is a good coolant to refill an aio cooler? Some sort of a premix? Antifreeze + distilled water?
 
you can use either or and it will prevent corrosion or dw and ptnuke. but I think that is not really as big of a deal as people make out. cars engine run under way higher temps and with more mixed metal than an aio and they are good for how long?! as far as replacement tubes and filling I would recommend a t and fill line you can cap off/plug. you can do it without like I did but its trickier. for tubing I'm currently using continental 6.4mm fuel line(if barbed rads). its very flexible, chem resistant, kink resistant, reinforced and rated for a high enough temp. I can literally double it over on itself 180 and it does not kink. if you don't want the white writing it comes off with a scotch brite pad.

4.jpg

ps: if the aios pumps still run but they don't cooler properly then there is a clog in one of the barbs and it could/should be fixable. that's how I got my h60 pic'd above :)
 
you can use either or and it will prevent corrosion or dw and ptnuke. but I think that is not really as big of a deal as people make out. cars engine run under way higher temps and with more mixed metal than an aio and they are good for how long?! as far as replacement tubes and filling I would recommend a t and fill line you can cap off/plug. you can do it without like I did but its trickier. for tubing I'm currently using continental 6.4mm fuel line(if barbed rads). its very flexible, chem resistant, kink resistant, reinforced and rated for a high enough temp. I can literally double it over on itself 180 and it does not kink. if you don't want the white writing it comes off with a scotch brite pad.

View attachment 12673

ps: if the aios pumps still run but they don't cooler properly then there is a clog in one of the barbs and it could/should be fixable. that's how I got my h60 pic'd above :)
Thanks for the info. I have an older antec kuhler h2o that leaks through an o-ring and some cooler master that has a dead pump. May reuse the waterblock on the cooler master and plumb it to cool the gpu and cpu - not sure if the pump on my running corsair h75 will be enough to push through so many radiators and two waterblocks, but I have a running custom wc system and this is more of a "will it work" thing for a htpc. Considering using an external pump and basically harvesting the blocks and radiators from those broken AIOs.
Mixed metals issue is something I'm unsure as well - as you said, cars run mixed metals in their cooling systems for many years without failure. But I have seen some older copper/aluminum waterblocks with some serious damage - but metals there were nearly touching...
 
Back
Top