Raijintek Metis ITX [Build Log]

Ulti

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
189


Just bought the new ITX case from Raijintek. A lot of people like to use AIO or custom watercoolers/loops now but I'm oldschool and prefer aircoolers.

Well without further ado, here's some info about the case:

Name: Raijintek Metis
Form Factor: ITX
PSU Support: ATX
CPU Height Clearance: 160 mm
Official GPU Length Support: 170 mm
Unofficial GPU Length Support with SFX + ATX Bracket: ~250 mm
Fan Support: 1x 120mm Rear
HDD Support: 1x 3.5" HDD, 2x 2.5" HDD
ODD Support: None
Material: Aluminum 1.5mm (Surface); SPCC 0.5mm (Interior)
Colours: Black/Red/Silver/Blue/Green/Gold
Dimensions: 190x277x254 mm (~13.4L Volume)
Official website

I mainly decided to buy and build this for my gf who is a casual gamer but she doesn't need to run things at 120fps on 16x AA and maxed out settings so I tried to build a bit more of a budget box for her. You can see from the specs below that it's not amazingly powerful, but it's a well rounded machine.

Hardware list and costs:

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 Anniversary Edition
Cooler: Phanteks 120mm Red
RAM: 2x 4GB G.Skill Ripjaws
Motherboard: MSI B85I Gaming
HDD: SanDisk 128GB Ultra Plus SSD
GPU: MSI GTX 750 Ti Gaming
PSU: Silverstone ST30F 300W SFX
Case: Raijintek Metis

Complimentary component box shots:





The majority of components were second hand so you can see some components are not in the photo.

Let's get the case unwrapped!



Looks very nice out of the box. The anodized aluminium is pretty decent considering the budget price of the case.



Sorry I'm young and I love windowed cases. Notice the inverted motherboard?

Let's get the side panel off.



Just a bag of screws and a couple of cable ties in the accessories bag along with a Raijintek 3 pin 120mm fan.



Popped the PSU in using the provided SFX plate. The plain grey is too oldschool for me though, might have to spray paint the plate one day.

Let's pop some panels off.



The lovely thing about the case is that almost everything is screwed in so you can easily take the panels off. Off goes the top and the other side panel. Time to start working on cable management. I removed the top HDD bar as I won't be installing a 3.5" HDD and it'll just block much needed airflow.

Let's bring in the components now:



Wow, Intel brought back overclocking. Why did they even take it away? Damn them!



I regret picking this board but it looked too nice to pass on. I'll mention why I regret picking this board later.



I can never get tired of black and red colour schemes. Ideally I would have preferred the low profile Samsung Greens that I use in my own build but they're a pain to find and damn expensive in the UK now whenever they do pop up on second hand sites.



A bit worried about the cooler clearance...



But test fit shows that everything fits fine.



Or does it? I mentioned earlier I regret choosing this motherboard and that's mainly due to the CPU socket. Most of the newer ITX boards from Gigabyte, AsRock, ASUS etc have the CPU socket further away from the PCI-E slot. MSI definitely need to follow suit. It's a shame as I love the matte black look of their boards the most as it gives off the cleanest look to me.

You can see the GPU can just about fit in the slot but it's bent at an angle by the CPU cooler. The CPU cooler suits the case too much for me to change it. If anything I would change the motherboard. The AsRock B85M-ITX is probably what I would go for.

Well time to get it into the case.



Took the CPU cooler and GPU off again. Plugged in all the power cables, data cables, case cables etc. Removed the exhaust fan as I don't think it'll be needed.



Fit the cooler back on. This was a nightmare as I wanted a clean look and didn't want the two long fan cables going everywhere. The easiest way I found to do this was to wrap the fan cables around the cooler itself then lower the cooler onto the CPU and making sure to plug in the fan header (the fan header is under the CPU... MSI really need to work on their board layout) and then unclipping the fans but leaving them hanging so that I had just enough space to screw in the cooler.

Now for the GPU.. Will it fit? The MSI GTX750 Ti has an overkill 250 mm long cooler, but it's needed here as the case hardly has any intakes/exhausts.



It just about fits. I stuck electrical tape on the top side of the cooler to ensure that the GPU doesn't touch the cooler directly. Not after a fireworks display!



A tight fit as you can see, I totally forgot about the the USB headers and power button connector board - very fortunate that the MSI GTX 750 Ti fit.



Put a ruler there for an unscientific measurement of maximum GPU length support.



Top and opposite side panel back on. Looking neat.



The shades of red look quite different here but it's not that bad in real life thankfully.



All complete!



Rear shot.

Now the moment of truth - will I be presented with a lifeless black screen? A fireworks display? Or a budget ITX gaming machine?

It booted up fine! Immediately proceeded to overclock the GPU and just tinkered with the multiplier settings to get the CPU to 4.0 Ghz without touching voltage. 25% easy overclock right there.

Decided to run some benchmarks to test out temps. Very disappointing.

CPU Load: 80 C
GPU Load: 80 C

It wasn't as if the fan profiles were on silent either - I could easily hear the fans even though there were only 3 fans and I could see that the PSU fan was off as it wasn't drawing that much power (around 130W measured at the wall).

My i5-4570 with the same cooler on stock ran at 50-60 C load whilst the GPU ran at 55 C load in an ATX case with only an intake and exhaust (NZXT S340) without the fans spinning up at all.

I might try adding the fan back into the case as an exhaust but I can't imagine it helping much. What this case needs are more intake holes - there are simply not enough of them and so the case can't get any fresh air. I think if there were some holes in front of the windowed panel and on the top, the components would be able to breathe and the load temps would probably be below 60 C without the fans spinning up. Right now, if I forced the fans to stay at their silent profile, I can imagine the machine would be throttling or restarting.

It's a shame as the case is nice, the form factor is nice, and the build quality is nice. But I guess it was form over function here and due to that, I can't recommend this case as it has trouble keeping low powered components cool.

There are two options here; first option is to mod it and drill in holes myself but I have no experience. Second option is that hopefully Raijintek will release an updated version and I guess I'll just go buy that. Too much hassle to return the case so I'll just keep it.

It's so unfortunate as my gf saw the case and she loved it and even said it was cute compared to my ATX box. Not sure if Raijintek will do anything about the case though. I might shoot them an email and show them this thread and see what they say.

Anyone have any thoughts on what to do with the case for more airflow?

To view the full size images: please click here (imgur album).

Thanks for reading!
 
Last edited:

Phuncz

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
2,630
Yes indeed, nice build ! Too bad about the heat issues though. This usually happens with windowed SFF cases, but they didn't perforate most panels and even then it seems to be more restrictive than needed.
 

Brules

Gawd
Joined
Mar 27, 2000
Messages
734
I would think a sealed water cooling unit on the CPU puling in cool fresh air from the rear would fit and work very well for this case......
 

Screes

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
367
So its an aluminum, good looking version of the SG08 turned on its side?
 

theGryphon

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
1,295
So its an aluminum, good looking version of the SG08 turned on its side?

To me, the only thing they have in common is the orientation of the PSU with respect to the motherboard. Everything else is different.



EDIT: Scratch that. Even the PSU orientation is not same. Or, to put it precisely, it's an SG08 which

1) Has full aluminum shell instead of aluminum/steel
2) Is turned around so the PSU exhausts from the bottom
3) Has the PSU perpendicular to motherboard instead of parallel
4) Has no ODD support
5) Has a 120mm fan at the back, instead of a 180mm fan that faces the motherboard
6) Is much less deep, losing long GPU support
7) Has a side window
8) Comes in different colors

Seriously, the only thing they have in common is ITX board and ATX PSU support, and number of USB ports.
 
Last edited:

vipz

Gawd
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
818
I don't see where the GPU or PSU are getting fresh air from. I think the only way you can salvage the temps in this case is to use the 120mm fan in the back as an intake. I'll also second the CLC suggestion above - kind of a shame for all the parts color coordination you did when just about the only thing you can see through the window is the heatsink, which BTW seems to be sagging a bit.

You should also rotate the vented side panel so the vents line up with the mobo cutout, as shown on pic 5 instead of the last pic. This case could really use all the ventilation it can get.
 

Necere

2[H]4U
Joined
Jan 3, 2003
Messages
2,745
What this case needs are more intake holes - there are simply not enough of them and so the case can't get any fresh air. I think if there were some holes in front of the windowed panel and on the top, the components would be able to breathe and the load temps would probably be below 60 C without the fans spinning up. Right now, if I forced the fans to stay at their silent profile, I can imagine the machine would be throttling or restarting.

It's a shame as the case is nice, the form factor is nice, and the build quality is nice. But I guess it was form over function here and due to that, I can't recommend this case as it has trouble keeping low powered components cool.
That's pretty much what I said when this case first showed up. I see now that it has a smattering of ventilation holes on the left side, but that's not going to make for a lot of airflow. I would definitely install a rear exhaust fan, since at least then you'll get some air movement through the case.
 

Phuncz

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
2,630
I would definitely install a rear exhaust fan, since at least then you'll get some air movement through the case.
Or in the topic-starter's case, I'd recommend moving the fan on the CPU heatsink (nearest to the back of the case) to the rear fan mount of the case. I would expect that temps would improve a little by doing that.

Can you flip over the PSU ? It seems to have it's fan facing the CPU heatsink, but the PSU's fan sucks air into the PSU (towards the front of the case) while the CPU heatsink's fan seems to be oriented to blow air to the back of the case.

To even remotely start fixing this, you'd need to have the rear fan move the most air, although this will create underpressure, you don't have many options.
 

vipz

Gawd
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
818
Pretty sure the PSU fan is facing the front. See the vents on the side of the PSU, those are usually on the side opposite of the fan.

OP, you will definitely need to mount a fan at the back. I imagine it'd be a good idea to do some tests on whether the fan would work better as an intake or exhaust. Whatever you decide on, make sure to align the CPU fan(s) with the rear fan.
 

Screes

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 28, 2013
Messages
367
Seriously, the only thing they have in common is ITX board and ATX PSU support, and number of USB ports.

To me, they are:

1. Roughly the same size
2. Roughly the same shape
3. PSU mounted in front of the motherboard
4. Supporting ITX boards with 2 expansion slots

ie: Basically the same case but looks better.

External dimensions, external styling, and to a lesser degree layout, are really the only major obstacles when building a computer, everything else can be modded to fit your needs.
 

Ulti

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
189
Thanks for the comments. I won't comment on the SG08 vs Raijintek Metis case as I feel ITX cases are mostly quite similar, but even a small change makes them a completely different case and I believe it's the case here. It's nice to have choice afterall.

I would think a sealed water cooling unit on the CPU puling in cool fresh air from the rear would fit and work very well for this case......

I'm not sure about that as I don't think I can exhaust the air that way.

I don't see where the GPU or PSU are getting fresh air from. I think the only way you can salvage the temps in this case is to use the 120mm fan in the back as an intake. I'll also second the CLC suggestion above - kind of a shame for all the parts color coordination you did when just about the only thing you can see through the window is the heatsink, which BTW seems to be sagging a bit.

You should also rotate the vented side panel so the vents line up with the mobo cutout, as shown on pic 5 instead of the last pic. This case could really use all the ventilation it can get.

Yeah, that's the main issue. There are not enough ventilation holes to get fresh, cool air.

I've had a quick look at the machine and the heatsink is screwed on tight and doesn't seem to budge at all - not sure why they appear to be sagging in the photos. Could be the force from the GPU exerted on the heatsink.

I was thinking that flipping the side panel would allow more fresh air to get in from the front and then filter its way to the back but I guess flipped it the other way is worth trying. I've currently put the machine back in the wardrobe for now as I'm using the GTX750 Ti for now as I'm waiting for the GTX 960 to be released.

You're the second person to suggest flipping the fans around and having them as intake - do you think that would work better than using them as exhausts? I always thought it was easier to get rid of heat by having no intake and having an exhaust rather than having an intake and no exhaust?

That's pretty much what I said when this case first showed up. I see now that it has a smattering of ventilation holes on the left side, but that's not going to make for a lot of airflow. I would definitely install a rear exhaust fan, since at least then you'll get some air movement through the case.

That's actually where I first saw the case but I thought as a Pentium G3258 and GTX750 Ti don't produce much heat, I would get away with using those two in an aluminium case but it seems even those two are too hot. Furthermore it's winter right now. On a hot summer's day the temps could easily be another 20 C so I definitely need to address these issues.

Or in the topic-starter's case, I'd recommend moving the fan on the CPU heatsink (nearest to the back of the case) to the rear fan mount of the case. I would expect that temps would improve a little by doing that.

Can you flip over the PSU ? It seems to have it's fan facing the CPU heatsink, but the PSU's fan sucks air into the PSU (towards the front of the case) while the CPU heatsink's fan seems to be oriented to blow air to the back of the case.

To even remotely start fixing this, you'd need to have the rear fan move the most air, although this will create underpressure, you don't have many options.

I have the PSU intake facing the front of the case, which is why I mainly flipped the side panels over so that in the event the PSU gets too hot and the fan turns on, it'd be able to breathe. However, the fan is actually off from what I've seen. The PSU seems to only turn on the fan when the internal temp reaches 55 C according to Silverstone's website and I guess the Pentium G3258 and GTX750 Ti don't push the PSU hard enough.

I guess I will try adding the rear fan back in. I was just wary about doing this as that fan will be right next to the CPU fan so I was mainly worried about noise but at this rate the fans are loud enough as they have to spin up to cope with the heat.

Pretty sure the PSU fan is facing the front. See the vents on the side of the PSU, those are usually on the side opposite of the fan.

OP, you will definitely need to mount a fan at the back. I imagine it'd be a good idea to do some tests on whether the fan would work better as an intake or exhaust. Whatever you decide on, make sure to align the CPU fan(s) with the rear fan.

Once I get some time I'll do some tests with a rear fan and try both intake and exhaust. Only issue is that the build currently has no graphics card so the results won't be accurate but it's gonna be a while until I get myself a graphics card. I'll also try running the PC with no GPU and see what temps are like and then add the rear fan and also rotate the CPU cooler around.
 

Zap

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Messages
1,421
Have you tried using it for a while without the cover on it? This way you know if it is lack of airflow or something else before you start jumping through hoops.
 

Ulti

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
189
Have you tried using it for a while without the cover on it? This way you know if it is lack of airflow or something else before you start jumping through hoops.

Which cover do you mean? As in the top cover? Or side panels? If you mean the top cover then the side panels actually screw into them so I'm not sure if the side panels would stay on with only the bottom two screws in.

I will give it a test once I have time though which will most likely be tomorrow.
 

Zap

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Messages
1,421
I mean, similar to the picture with the ruler on the graphics card. What this will accomplish is to determine if the case airflow (or lack thereof) is the cause of your overheating woes, without doing any modding or major dis-assembly.
 

cowsgomoo

Gawd
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Messages
547
I think your temperature will improve if you take the pull-fan on your heatsink and screw it to the back of the case, then run it at a higher speed.



Looks like Phunz already recommended that.
 
Last edited:

Ulti

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
189
Alright, did a ton of unscientific tests and I'm back with the results. Took me the whole afternoon and evening, didn't know it would take that long!

I used Prime95 SmallFTT for CPU load testing and Unigine Heaven for GPU load testing and had them run until the max temp did not change for 10 mins. Temps were recored via CoreTemp for CPU and MSI Afterburner for GPU.

Take the idle results with a pinch of salt as I didn't leave it to cool for a specific time after the tests, I just took a reading after a few mins.

Results are listed as CPU Core 1/CPU Core 2/GPU.

No covers mean no side or top panels.
Covers on mean the side and top panel are on.
Covers back mean the side and top panel are on with the intake holes facing the rear.
Covers front mean the side and top panel are on with the intake holes facing the front.
Fan speed means that the fan speed span up to the denoted fan speed % with 32% being the default.

1) Results with rear fan as exhaust and CPU exhausting:

a) No GPU/Covers on. Idle: 24C/20C. Load: 52C/49C
b) GPU/No covers. Idle: 26C/22C/21C. Load: 52C/47C/48C
c) GPU/Covers back. Idle: 27C/24C/24C. Load: 61C/58C/61C. Fan speed: 32-38%. RPM: 863-1092.
d) GPU/Covers front. Idle: 28C/25C/26C. Load: 61C/59C/61C. Fan speed: 32-38%. RPM: 857-1085.

2) Results with rear fan as intake and CPU flipped around in intake configuration. PSU remained the same.

a) GPU/No covers. Idle: 23C/20C/22C. Load: 51C/47C/52C
b) GPU/Covers back. Idle: 26C/22C/26C. Load: 56C/51C/61C. Fan speed: 32-38%. RPM: 869-1084.
c) GPU/Covers front. Idle: 26C/23C/26C. Load: 56C/52C/61C. Fan speed: 32-38%. RPM: 873-1080.

3) Results with no rear fan and CPU flipped around in intake configuration. PSU remained the same.

a) GPU/Covers back. Idle: 25C/23C/27C. Load: 69C/65C/73C. Fan speed: 32-45%. RPM: 870-1312.

4) Results with rear fan as intake and CPU flipped around in intake configuration. PSU was flipped around and took in air from the CPU cooler.

a) GPU/Covers back. Idle: 25C/22C/26C. Load: 53C/48C/61C. Fan speed: 32-38%. RPM: 875-1071.

Stupidly enough, I forgot to take a reading with the GPU in, covers on and no rear fan. The CPU temp would probably be a bit higher than test 1)b) but GPU temp shouldn't really be affected.

Just by looking at the results, it seems that the rear fan makes a massive difference and it seems as an intake is the best solution here with the CPU fans also as intakes and then having the PSU intake the air from the CPU fan and then exhausting it through the bottom which I found quite surprising. Surprisingly enough for me, having the side panel with the intake holes near the back was only marginally better than having it with the intake holes facing the front. I would have thought the side panel with the intake holes would be better for when the rear fan was both an intake or exhaust but.

Diagram of final airflow:



Just did a test game of Smite and the load temps were: 45C/43C/56C with fan speed: 32-35% and RPM 872-987. Much better and I'm more than happy with these results.

Only issue is now the noise is pretty darn loud which I presume might be because the fan is not directly in line with the CPU fan. I think I'm just going to replace the motherboard as I think it's causing too much flex on the GPU and causing the heatsink to bend anyway. I've tried reducing the fan speed but even then it's pretty loud.

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys! I'm still really surprised it runs cooler with a positive air pressure.
 
Last edited:

vipz

Gawd
Joined
Apr 11, 2005
Messages
818
Nice follow-up, OP, glad the temps have gotten better.

Regarding the noise, can you identify which fan(s) the noise comes from? Maybe you can selectively reduce fan speed without sacrificing too much cooling.

Regarding the mobo, if you're not married to that particular CPU cooler, maybe an AIO cooler will work for you?
 

Phuncz

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
2,630
Indeed, thanks for the info ! An AIO cooler might be a good solution, but I would first just try with the white fan on the right side of the CPU heatsink (on the picture) placed on the rear panel, so the heatsink only has one fan (on the left) and the other white fan is attached to the case back. This would allow to still have a low noise profile (because same fan characteristics) without losing too much airflow.
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
I didn´t expect that much change in temperatures by switching the to intake, thanks :). it may not have the same effect due to the change ventilation in my metis-build, but I will test it when there is the Chieftek SFX-L 500W here to buy.
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
So can a 3.5HDD be mounted at the bottom?

It should fit, but it may be tricky. Because i dont´t have a 3,5HDD i cut of a piece of paper (102x146mm) and put ist into the Metis.

The HDD have to be between the rear fan and the bottom. The gap is ~26,5 mm, 3,5HDD-standard is 25,4 mm. At least with a little mod it should fit, yes.
 

Groats

n00b
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
38
Thanks for the pic makenick :) Reason I ask is, that according to Raijintek's website, the 3.5HDD mount is up top next to the GPU which is starved for air already.
 

yolostrats

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Messages
93
I doubt it will work based off the picture alone - because the hdd might be higher than the mobo plug, and that can either sit above the HDD or have enough space between the mobo socket and hdd (4-5cm depending on the PSU cable).
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
I doubt it will work based off the picture alone - because the hdd might be higher than the mobo plug, and that can either sit above the HDD or have enough space between the mobo socket and hdd (4-5cm depending on the PSU cable).

Indeed, not that good picture to see how it match, here is another:

The space between moboplug and HDD is about 5 cm. For that you have to mount the HDD close to the outside, just a few mm space left because of the curved case. The HDD should build in at last to make things easier, imho.
 
Last edited:

Ispy79

n00b
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
1
Hi,

I bought this case too, here is my config:

CPU: Intel Pentium i3 3220
Cooler: Thermalright AXP-200 Muscle
RAM: 1x8GB Kingston HyperX
Motherboard: Asrock B75M ITX
HDD: -
SSD: OCZ Agility 4 128 GB
GPU: Palit KalmX 750ti 2GB DDR5
PSU: Be Quiet System Power 7 300W
Case: Raijintek Metis Silver Classic

CPU Idle: 35C
GPU Idle: 35C

After 2 hours WOT:

CPU load: 50-55C
GPU load: 60C
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
My projekt is also finished.



To compare the results i use the same program as Ulti does.

CPU: Intel i5-2500K
Cooler: CoolerMaster HyperTX 3 Evo + 2x 92mm bequiet-fans
GPU: GeForce GTX 660 Ti

Results with both cpu-fans (840 rpm) an case (770 rpm) fan running at 5V as exhaust:

Prime95 SmallFTT CPU-temps: idle:34°C load:69°C (highest temp of the 4 cores)
Unigine Heaven GPU-temps: idle:34°C load:80°C

The GPU-temp is far away form 97°C and CPU-temp is below 72°C, so all is running well. The system is really silent, except the GPU is running at full load. Time for a silent GTX970.....
 

Groats

n00b
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
38
I didn´t expect that much change in temperatures by switching the to intake, thanks :). it may not have the same effect due to the change ventilation in my metis-build, but I will test it when there is the Chieftek SFX-L 500W here to buy.

How much effect does the extra ventilation have? This should be standard.
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
How much effect does the extra ventilation have? This should be standard.

I made a quick Unigine Heaven GPU-test with closed and opened holes:


closed holes (original Raijintek): 87°C, GPU-fans running at 2700 rpm
with extra holes: 81°C, GPU-fans running at 2300 rpm

With more and/or larger holes there might be bigger difference, but the case looks good for me right now and temps are good, too.
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
Looks nice!

Is that the new Chieftec SFX PSU? I'm interested in that one as well. Quick review? :)

Thank you :)

I can´t tell that much. The PSU is silent and looks real good. For my ITX-build this small SFX PSU made a big differnce in using the space inside the case. A lot of cables are hidden behind the PSU because of the extra space, compared to a ATX PSU. There is just one little thing I had to change. The cables are really stiff. So I did remove all sleeves and shrinks and get much more easy to install cables. In a bigger case it is no problem, I think.

Link to a translated review: https://translate.google.de/transla...ware.de/review_1783_1.html&edit-text=&act=url
 

herrsahlin

n00b
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
8
Thank you :)

I can´t tell that much. The PSU is silent and looks real good. For my ITX-build this small SFX PSU made a big differnce in using the space inside the case. A lot of cables are hidden behind the PSU because of the extra space, compared to a ATX PSU. There is just one little thing I had to change. The cables are really stiff. So I did remove all sleeves and shrinks and get much more easy to install cables. In a bigger case it is no problem, I think.

Link to a translated review: https://translate.google.de/transla...ware.de/review_1783_1.html&edit-text=&act=url
Thanks! It's not available in my country (Sweden) yet but I'm thinking about ordering one from Germany.

Was it difficult to create those extra ventilation holes? How did you do it?
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
Was it difficult to create those extra ventilation holes? How did you do it?

You actually need just a drill and a matching mesh. I would like to say it´s easy:



First I tape the case-parts. Then I drill 2 holes in the top-casepart and fixed the mesh by screws and decide the pattern (drill from outside the case to the inside because of deburring). Put a piece of styrpor below it to prevent buckling. A few hundred drill-holes later you can remove the screws, mesh and tape and deburr the holes just from the inside. The side-parts had fortunately matching holes for the mesh.

I only problem might be to get the mesh. I got mine years ago fortunately as offcut.
 
Last edited:

herrsahlin

n00b
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
8
Thanks for the pics! As you said it doesn't look too difficult if you find the right mesh.

I'm guessing the top vent is the most important considering the placement of the VGA card? Although I guess it also increases the amount of noise that escapes the chassis from its fans. I'm looking to buy a silent 970 as well, right now the Palit GeForce GTX 970 JetStream looks nice. 247 mm long so it should fit in the Metis.
 

Phuncz

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
2,630
Heat will also translate into noise when it reaches a certain limit because of increasing fan speed. What I've read here, that limit is very easy to achieve with this case, even with power-efficient hardware.
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
Thanks for the pics! As you said it doesn't look too difficult if you find the right mesh.

I'm guessing the top vent is the most important considering the placement of the VGA card? Although I guess it also increases the amount of noise that escapes the chassis from its fans. I'm looking to buy a silent 970 as well, right now the Palit GeForce GTX 970 JetStream looks nice. 247 mm long so it should fit in the Metis.

The GTX 970 have about the same TDP as the 660ti in my case, so it´s on my wishlist too. 247 mm fits in the case without any mod, if the PSU and its cables don´t block it. The Palit seems to be a real good one, but i´m not sure about the coil whine https://translate.google.de/transla...dia-geforce-gtx-970-test-roundup-vergleich/4/
 

makenick

n00b
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
41
Heat will also translate into noise when it reaches a certain limit because of increasing fan speed. What I've read here, that limit is very easy to achieve with this case, even with power-efficient hardware.

The 660ti in the metis works more silent when playing D3 than it works before in a (bigger) Sugo SG09 with 5-case-fans (1x 180, 2x 120, 2x92, running at 5V), what really surprises me. I don´t know why it is that way but i like it :)

The Ncase is a real nice one too. Because it was not available I had to wait and during that time the Metis arrives on the scene. The Metis with its curved edges looks real good to me, even better than a Ncase, but this is just my taste. Nevertheless the Ncase have the most options to get in a little case, imho, especially for watercooling. I will pursue the project further.
 
Last edited:

Harnser

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 3, 2014
Messages
71
Nice writeup! Have you tested removing the window (so there's an opening instead, which could be covered with dust-catching mesh)? It would very much change the airflow pattern, increasing noise somewhat but I'd be curious about temperatures.

Cheers!
 
Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
1
Just ordered mine from NCIX in the US. Got for $34.99 on sale, the black windowed version. Sucks that the CPU is so close to the PCIe. Going with the Gigabyte Z97n Gaming 5 cause of the layout of the board. Hopefully all goes well. Will be posting build once I get all the parts in.
 
Top