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Radiator Mounting

A2TheRizzo

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
282
Hey, I have been doing some research and I have decided I would like to jump into watercooling. The only problem is my case is a little bit too small to fit an internal rad unless its a single 80mm. I have a fan hole on top that I could remove the fan, and sit my rad up top and let the tubes hang down into the case. Would any drilling be involved if I used a Black Ice Pro? Like four screws that I could drill through the top of my case to secure it from being knocked off? I was thinking of doing Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>Res. Would I encounter any problems pumping the water from the bottom of the case up to the rad, and back down to the CPU?

Thanks alot! Here is a link to what my case looks like..
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811144026
 
you could always mount it out the back, something like what I did with mine in this picture (I have since changed and now have a dual fan /120.2 rad back there. Since you have the mounting holes for a 120mm fan on the back panel, it would be very easy to do, and all you would need to do is make 2 holes for the tubing to come through.

liquid3200newstuff0100lp.jpg


and here it is with the bigger rad
3700updates0097ws.jpg


~NortH~
 
Great, now all I would have to do is drill some small holes or fit it through the pci slot somehow. How did you get your hoses through? Also, did those long screws come with your rad?
 
Anyone know how to set up a T-Line? I am intrested in doing this so I can save some $$ on W/Cing.
 
Like this :)

I just folded the end of the tube and zip tied it so the water can't come out.

DCP_0002.jpg
 
you can fit a 120mm radiator inside your case, or even a double 120mm radiator, except youll lose like 2 5.25" drive bays.

take my rig for example. 120mm radiator internally mounted to the top of the case, and the T-Line.

IMG_0287.jpg

IMG_0289.jpg
 
So the T Line works better than a Reservoir? I went to a reservoir so the air could escape to the top if there was any. But the problem with the T-Line is, Wouldnt the air just go past the T-Line and back into the pump? I mean isnt the pump pushing water too fast to let the air escape to the top of the T-Line?
 
You need to keep turning the pump on for a split second, and bleed the air out that way, keep jolting it over and over, it's kind of tedious, but it works, I still have some air in my loop I built last night, it only goes through once in a while... it's getting kind of annoying, but it's been slowly getting into the T-Line, and will eventually be gone.
 
from my experience, the T-Line works better than any res ive used, and ive used quite a few (DD cylinder, Tank-o-matic, Bayres, homemade). It doesnt restrict flow and its just so.....minimalist.

it does take longer to bleed the air out of the system, about 1-2 hours longer than a res, but evetually all the air bubbles will be gone.
 
what about a Dangerden filport, wouldnt that be easier than a plain T-line
 
Liquid Cooled- I love your case. I might just think about internally mounting it, I will just have to remove something from my drive bay. Also, how do you like your Maze 4?

The DD fillport is what you use to fill the line. Just think of it as an advanced cork, yet you drill a hole in the top and can remove the thing to fill er up.
 
I just used a funnel to fill my system... although having a solid mounted fillport would be very helpful.
 
Liquid_Cooled said:
you can fit a 120mm radiator inside your case, or even a double 120mm radiator, except youll lose like 2 5.25" drive bays.

take my rig for example. 120mm radiator internally mounted to the top of the case, and the T-Line.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/Wineappler/IMG_0287.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/Wineappler/IMG_0289.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]


very neat for a large bore system, one of the best hose route jobs i've seen.... :o
 
Let me know what you think of this...
90% From DangerDen

Waterblock: DD TDX
RAD: DD Black Ice Pro
Pump: DD D5
Tubing: 1/2" ID
T-Line w/ DD Fillport
Plastic Clamps
PC Ice
Dual UV Cold Cathodes
90CFM 120mm fan

And it will go like this..
T-Line>Pump>Rad>CPU>T-Line

Also, I can sit the radiator in the bottom of my 5.25" drive bays am I correct? If not, will they include long screws w/ the Black Ice so I can mount it externally?
 
A2TheRizzo said:
Hey, I have been doing some research and I have decided I would like to jump into watercooling. The only problem is my case is a little bit too small to fit an internal rad unless its a single 80mm. I have a fan hole on top that I could remove the fan, and sit my rad up top and let the tubes hang down into the case. Would any drilling be involved if I used a Black Ice Pro? Like four screws that I could drill through the top of my case to secure it from being knocked off? I was thinking of doing Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>Res. Would I encounter any problems pumping the water from the bottom of the case up to the rad, and back down to the CPU?

Thanks alot! Here is a link to what my case looks like..
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811144026


IIRC the case does have a mount for a 120mm fan in the back. I think you could squeeze a 120mm radiator inside there...
 
A few more ?'s. The 1/2" ID tubing is the fat tubing found in Liquid Cooled's case right?

Do I need a fan shroud? I am not doing intensive cooling.

How would I got about testing my loop outside of my computer if I have a 12V pump?
 
yes, my system uses 1/2" ID tubing. its not necessary to use a fan shoud. take a 4 pin molex and stretch it outside your case, then connect it to your pump. make a large cardboard shield to cover your computer if your paranoid.
 
Alright guys, thank you. I think I have a pretty good idea on what I'm doin. I'll order everything once my stuff on eBay sells!
 
I never get tired of looking at that coolermaster :)

Thats looks like some flexable 1/2 inch tubing, is it tygon? Hell in the pic it looks more flexable that the 7/16th stuff I am using from McMaster.
edit: it s tygon, but for some reason I was reading it NOAVI lol


For your order thats fine, but you might be able to get some parts cheaper else where, like fans cathodes and tubing, if you your on a budget.

Also you can slow down the flow on the D5, not sure if it will help with bleeding the system, as the pot on mine did not work lol.

The one thing I like a bout the T-line in my case is that it is long enough so that when I fill it it fills up the pump too (I can see liquid above the pump in the pumps output line)
 
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