Quick question for the very experienced modders!

[jalyst]

I'm having a very hard time deciding between the silver or black Silverstone CW02.

I've weighed-up many different factors & I've decided what the determining criteria should be.
In the event I'm not happy with the colour I chose, whichever's easiest to mod to it's opposite colour, is the colour I want.

So the question is;
Is it easier to revert a black (anodised) case to a silver one, or a silver (bare aluminium) case to a black one?*

I'm guessing silver to black would be easier to pull-off in a slick/pro way, but I'm by no means an expert in the area.
Any sign writers, panel beaters, or hard-core modders please advise if you can!

Thank-you very much.
*I'm happy to pay to get either professionally done...
Just want to know what would be easier for the "pros" to do well!

 

[silent-circuit]

It's easier to anodize silver to black. Can't as easily get black to silver. Anodizing at home is possible, but a huge pain and potentially dangerous. Probably better to get it done professionally.

 

[jalyst]

Woah quick response, hey thanks!
So black to silver wouldn't just be a matter of sanding the paint off?

Can you please go into more detail about why silver to back is better than black to silver?
What steps are involved with these two different paths?

 

[shawnoen]

Anodizing is an electrical chemical process that can only be done with aluminum. The chemical used for this are strictly controlled by the EPA.

Removing anodizing is very easy to do. You use heavy duty Easy Off oven cleaner. Spray it on and the black anodizing will rub right after after sitting for about 2 minutes.

Its the lye (caustic soda) in the Easy Off Heavy Duty that does it w/o harming the aluminum.

 

[jalyst]

Anodizing is an electrical chemical process that can only be done with aluminum. The chemical used for this are strictly controlled by the EPA.

Hmm, guess it'd be similar in Australia...
So to get it professionally done, where could one take their case, any ideas?
Surely it wouldn't be exorbitant?

Removing anodizing is very easy to do. You use heavy duty Easy Off oven cleaner. Spray it on and the black anodizing will rub right after after sitting for about 2 minutes.
Its the lye (caustic soda) in the Easy Off Heavy Duty that does it w/o harming the aluminum.

I wonder what the same product in Australia is, no doubt there's similar cleaning products.
What are the key ingredients I want and don't want?

Problem with this approach even if it's easier is:
Because I'm doing it I'd prolly scratch the aluminium underneath, miss spots, or not be able to remove all the black.

So I'm more inclined to go with the silver --> black option.
Unless there's somewhere I could take it to be professionally scrubbed?

Thanks!

 

[Arcygenical]

Sanding the black aluminum oxide coating off your case would turn it back to it's lustrous silver hue. But be warned, it's absolutely impossible to get the conversion perfect - you'll always have improper brush lines from the sanding paper in your new silver "brushed aluminum" finish.

You can wipe off the anodized coating using any solution of lye... but lye will damage your aluminum (and skin!) if contact is made for too long. Lots of granular drain cleaners contain crystalized lye. You can buy lye over the net for soap making (and for brewing up meth, so YMMV, don't be an idiot and order it with your monthly packet of pseudoephedrine)

Getting a case re-anodized at an aluminum shop would likely cost $200 USD or more for a basic color. A 150$ investment would net you all you need to do the job yourself - but it's quite dangerous without the proper safety gear (extra thick nitrile gloves are a must, as is good face protection and a wool overshirt to absorb sputter). It's not hard to do, once you know the process to a T. I anodize lots of aluminum pieces myself using OTC rit dye!

Another option would be powder coating. It's a thick, often glossy, plastic "paint" that's sprayed to the case and baked in place. It produces a very high quality paint finish, and comes in thousands of colors. Don't limit yourself to silver or black needlessly. 100$ will do the inside and outside of most cases, at most machine shops in the USA. YMMV elsewhere (like Canada, where there's not a single fucking PC place...).

 

[bastage]

Another option would be powder coating. It's a thick, often glossy, plastic "paint" that's sprayed to the case and baked in place. It produces a very high quality paint finish, and comes in thousands of colors. Don't limit yourself to silver or black needlessly. 100$ will do the inside and outside of most cases, at most machine shops in the USA. YMMV elsewhere (like Canada, where there's not a single fucking PC place...).

This..

 

[jalyst]

@Arcygenical/everyone,

Thanks so much for the awesome feedback thus far!
I can't respond in-full right now, as it's 330am here, so I must get some shut-eye.

One point though, I was speaking to someone who owns the silver one...
And they reckon there is no paint job anywhere on the case, just raw polished aluminium.

Yet I look at some of the photos, & I swear the dress plates have some sort of coat on them.
What do you reckon?

http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_photo.php?pno=cw02&area=usa
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&...9&q=silverstone+cw02&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

 

[jalyst]

...

 

[jalyst]

Sanding the black aluminum oxide coating off your case would turn it back to it's lustrous silver hue. But be warned, it's absolutely impossible to get the conversion perfect - you'll always have improper brush lines from the sanding paper in your new silver "brushed aluminum" finish.

So it's possible to get it back to a perfect aluminium base (i.e. no black anywhere) but impossible to avoid messy looking scratches?
Surely I could use some kind of brush/tool that turns messy scratches, into a more uniform pattern that looks deliberate, rather than haphazard?

Could I get someone to professionally remove the black & polish the aluminium uniformly for me?

That might be better than getting someone to anodise a silver one, which I think'd be more work than 1st thought.
As I think there's paint on the silver one that needs to be removed 1st, I don't think it's just raw polished aluminium.

You can wipe off the anodized coating using any solution of lye... but lye will damage your aluminum (and skin!) if contact is made for too long. Lots of granular drain cleaners contain crystalized lye. You can buy lye over the net for soap making (and for brewing up meth, so YMMV, don't be an idiot and order it with your monthly packet of pseudoephedrine)

So Lye is the only necessary/key ingredient right?
So basically I can go to my local hardware shop & look for drain cleaners that contain Lye?
Or will they not work well because their Lye concentration is diluted + they contain other chemicals?

Getting a case re-anodized at an aluminum shop would likely cost $200 USD or more for a basic color. A 150$ investment would net you all you need to do the job yourself - but it's quite dangerous without the proper safety gear (extra thick nitrile gloves are a must, as is good face protection and a wool overshirt to absorb sputter). It's not hard to do, once you know the process to a T. I anodize lots of aluminum pieces myself using OTC rit dye!

LOL no thanks, if the savings is only $50-100, then I think I'll leave it to the pros!
So you mention "aluminium shop" I'm not aware of such places, I wonder if the same terminology is used here.
Any idea what other entities I could approach to anodize my case?

Another option would be powder coating. It's a thick, often glossy, plastic "paint" that's sprayed to the case and baked in place. It produces a very high quality paint finish, and comes in thousands of colors. Don't limit yourself to silver or black needlessly. 100$ will do the inside and outside of most cases, at most machine shops in the USA.

Actually I think I'd rather just stick to black or aluminium.
This build is going into my theatre room...
Everything in that room is conservative in colour/tone so as to not distract the eye.
And all the A/V gear I'm considering comes only in black or sometimes silver/gold.

So how does this method compare to anodising the case black, is it superior IYO?
I don't see the point of painting inside the case, I don't think I'd bother with that.

Thanks for your time/help, tis very much appreciated!

 

[jalyst]

Sorry to bump in less than 24hrs, it's just that I'm working with some massive time constraints
I'd be ever so grateful if one or more folk could help with all the the Qns in my prior 2 posts.

Thanks again for all the wonderful advice thus far, good-night.

 

[jalyst]

...

 

[Arcygenical]

So it's possible to get it back to a perfect aluminium base (i.e. no black anywhere) but impossible to avoid messy looking scratches?
Surely I could use some kind of brush/tool that turns messy scratches, into a more uniform pattern that looks deliberate, rather than haphazard?
Sure, and if you find said tool, please let me know

Could I get someone to professionally remove the black & polish the aluminium uniformly for me?
Yes, I'm sure you can, But polished aluminum is super high gloss, not unlike a regular silver mirror.

That might be better than getting someone to anodise a silver one, which I think'd be more work than 1st thought.
As I think there's paint on the silver one that needs to be removed 1st, I don't think it's just raw polished aluminium.

The silver case is most likely "hard anodized" after some sort of pre-treatment (like sandblasting for the pebbled aluminum anodization, or well sanded for a brushed aluminum finish) The lye treatment should remove this.



So Lye is the only necessary/key ingredient right?
So basically I can go to my local hardware shop & look for drain cleaners that contain Lye?
Or will they not work well because their Lye concentration is diluted + they contain other chemicals?
100% pure lye, in the form of roebick drain crystals in the USA will work fine. Add 2 cups to 1 gallon of water in a quality plastic tub, and submerse the part. Mixing lye with water is very exothermic, so mix the lye slowly with cold water. Don't let any other metals come in contact with the solution. A 15 minute soak time should be enough to let you wipe the color off afterwards. Repeat as necessary.


LOL no thanks, if the savings is only $50-100, then I think I'll leave it to the pros!
So you mention "aluminium shop" I'm not aware of such places, I wonder if the same terminology is used here.
Any idea what other entities I could approach to anodize my case?

Where's "here"? Aluminum shops are also known as fabrication shops and machine shops, but they should specialize in aluminum fabrication.

So how does this method compare to anodising the case black, is it superior IYO?
I don't see the point of painting inside the case, I don't think I'd bother with that.

It's totally different, in just about every way and form. The process and the results are much different. As I said, you get a thick, high gloss finish that produces a high quality gloss reflection. Anodizing is a thin (a few nm!) coating of stained aluminum oxide whereas a powdercoat is a thick (about 1mm) coating of plastic that get's melted and shrunk to the piece it's covering. Can't really explain it any better than that for you!

Thanks for your time/help, tis very much appreciated!

Hope that helps, I don't think I gave you too much valuable info -_- Good luck!

Oh, and as for the dress plates... I think they're sandblasted and then anodized where the other panels were brushed before anodization. It's VERY possible that those dress plates have some sort of plastic coating on them... They may even be aluminum decals stuck to other materials. Unfortunately there's no way of knowing... Provided you DID get the rest of the case black, and they are coated in some sort of plastic coating... Well, you could paint them easily to match with a high quality rattlecan paint.

 

[bastage]

It's totally different, in just about every way and form. The process and the results are much different. As I said, you get a thick, high gloss finish that produces a high quality gloss reflection. Anodizing is a thin (a few nm!) coating of stained aluminum oxide whereas a powdercoat is a thick (about 1mm) coating of plastic that get's melted and shrunk to the piece it's covering. Can't really explain it any better than that for you!

This is only partially true. Powder coating is not just "high gloss" you can get it flat as well. & much more uniform & "black" then typical anodizing. Basically with powder coating whatever color & finish you want it to be you can get. To put it simple its like paint, but baked on & much harder & more durable. And its also not exactly plastic like you would be thinking of when you say plastic. And its not necessairly 1mm thick either.

The way ot works is basically they spray colored dust onto a piece of metal. Bake said piece of metal. Dust melts & bonds to the metal. & then you have a very nice finish.

 

[TheOneKnownAsMe]

I seem to remember seeing a thread on bit tech where some guy rigged up some sort of contraption that allowed him to sand the aluminum in a perfectly straight manner, so as to give it that nice brushed look. Dunno, I'll have to see if I can dig up the thread.

With powder coating, the object being powder coated is given a negative charge, and the powder coating itself is positively charged, which holds the powder coating to the object, then the powder coat is baked and cured.

 

[Arcygenical]

This is only partially true. Powder coating is not just "high gloss" you can get it flat as well. & much more uniform & "black" then typical anodizing. Basically with powder coating whatever color & finish you want it to be you can get. To put it simple its like paint, but baked on & much harder & more durable. And its also not exactly plastic like you would be thinking of when you say plastic. And its not necessairly 1mm thick either.

The way ot works is basically they spray colored dust onto a piece of metal. Bake said piece of metal. Dust melts & bonds to the metal. & then you have a very nice finish.

Yep, you're bang on right with everything there. Powdercoating comes in just about any color you can dream of, even two and three tone shimmer effects - matte, gloss etc. And of course it's not plastic, just likening it to something more tangible for the OP.

LOTS of shops only have the basic high-gloss coatings in stock though, I had trouble getting a matte black case done for less than 350$ I've since dropped about a grand in supplies and do all my own powdercoating. The interior of my current case was done at home, for about 9$ in beads, I couldn't be happier. I even made my own electrostatic generator from shit I had in the shop

 

[jalyst]

You guys are.... LEGENDS!!!
But damn, you always respond around midnight or later! LOL
Apologies for my delayed response, horrid night's sleep too, yeesh.

Sure, and if you find said tool, please let me know

Bummer, well main interest is whichever colour is easiest for a "Pro" to convert to the opposite colour.

Yes, I'm sure you can, But polished aluminum is super high gloss, not unlike a regular silver mirror.

I meant whatever is used on the silver CW02, I guess it's "brushed"
Was just surmising that perhaps it's easier for Pro's to convert a black to silver & hence cheaper etc.

The silver case is most likely "hard anodized" after some sort of pre-treatment (like sandblasting for the pebbled aluminum anodization, or well sanded for a brushed aluminum finish) The lye treatment should remove this.

Aha, so it's not just straight brushed aluminium...
And so like the black it'll take "some work", before it can be changed to the opposite colour!?

100% pure lye, in the form of roebick drain crystals in the USA will work fine. Add 2 cups to 1 gallon of water in a quality plastic tub, and submerse the part. Mixing lye with water is very exothermic, so mix the lye slowly with cold water. Don't let any other metals come in contact with the solution. A 15 minute soak time should be enough to let you wipe the color off afterwards. Repeat as necessary.

Okay, hopefully we have roebick drain crystals here in Australia...
Assuming I decide to do a colour conversion myself instead of taking it to someone, unlikely.

Where's "here"? Aluminum shops are also known as fabrication shops and machine shops, but they should specialize in aluminum fabrication.

I mentioned earlier in my post "where": Australia
Okay I'll do some searches for fab. & machine shops, surely we have those!

It's totally different, in just about every way and form. The process and the results are much different. As I said, you get a thick, high gloss finish that produces a high quality gloss reflection. Anodizing is a thin (a few nm!) coating of stained aluminum oxide whereas a powdercoat is a thick (about 1mm) coating of plastic that get's melted and shrunk to the piece it's covering. Can't really explain it any better than that for you!

So it's not superior IYO, just different, & offers greater variability in colour/tone?

Oh, and as for the dress plates... I think they're sandblasted and then anodized where the other panels were brushed before anodization. It's VERY possible that those dress plates have some sort of plastic coating on them... They may even be aluminum decals stuck to other materials. Unfortunately there's no way of knowing...

Yeah I spoke to someone who owns it, they double-checked & reckon there's definitely no paint involved...
But there seems to be uncertainty on that front, as well as disagreement that the silver case is anodised (cept for maybe the dress plates).
http://www.avforums.com/forums/home...12s-silverstone-cw02-htpc-7.html#post14223232
If it is, that adds a layer of complexity that may make silver to black just as tricky/pricey as black to silver!?

*update*
Read further through that thread & you'll see my correspondence with Silverstone.
We now have official word on exactly how colours were arrived at on both cases.
Does that change your thoughts on which would be simplest to transition, if so how/why?

I seem to remember seeing a thread on bit tech where some guy rigged up some sort of contraption that allowed him to sand the aluminum in a perfectly straight manner, so as to give it that nice brushed look. Dunno, I'll have to see if I can dig up the thread.

If you can it'd be really appreciated!!

Yep, you're bang on right with everything there. Powdercoating comes in just about any color you can dream of, even two and three tone shimmer effects - matte, gloss etc. And of course it's not plastic, just likening it to something more tangible for the OP.
LOTS of shops only have the basic high-gloss coatings in stock though, I had trouble getting a matte black case done for less than 350$ I've since dropped about a grand in supplies and do all my own powdercoating. The interior of my current case was done at home, for about 9$ in beads, I couldn't be happier.

Wow that's bloody expensive...
I imagine it'd be pricier here too, as people doing this kind of thing to their cases isn't as common.
Huge savings with your own set-up, but I don't think I can justify the initial outlay.
Especially considering I wouldn't be using it very often at all.

I even made my own electrostatic generator from shit I had in the shop

Huh?

So in summary....
Which would you recommend as the less complex & hence less pricey (yet flawless) conversion process?

Thanks again all, you rock!

 

[xDezor]

Not to sound like a troll or anything, but have you considered purchasing both cases? I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and from the sounds of it you may be too. $300 is a lot to gamble on achieving a flawless result.

Having said that, I vote silver. If you eventually decide you hate the silver look down the line, it's cheaper to produce some sort of black finish that's to your liking. It may not match their production model exactly, but it will be close enough - or maybe even better from your perspective.

I hope that made sense, I'm very tired...

 

[jalyst]

These are the very basic steps (omitting a fair bit of detail I imagine) as I see them:

silver --> black case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off (don't brush so as to avoid ruining brush lines?)
*then anodise black.

black --> silver case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off
*try to produce brush lines on the body & dress plates similar to the silver cw02 (if they're not already there)

I imagine black -> silver (because of the last step) will require more work & hence more $ if I'm paying someone.
Do ya'll agree or do you feel I'm oversimplifying & that silver --> black would be more labour intensive?

Thank-you very much everyone.

 

[CMadki4]

But be warned, it's absolutely impossible to get the conversion perfect - you'll always have improper brush lines from the sanding paper in your new silver "brushed aluminum" finish.

Nothing is impossible, especially not getting a nice brushed finish. If it was done once it can be done again. If it's so impossible, how did they do it in the first place!?!?!

 

[jalyst]

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[jalyst]

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[jalyst]

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[jalyst]

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[jalyst]

*BUMP* Arcygenical/anyone?

Can you please address every Qn/point in posts #18 & #20...
Please can I get some advice soon, I'm really strapped for time!

Than-you very much.

 

[jalyst]

These are the very basic steps (omitting a fair bit of detail I imagine) as I see them:

silver --> black case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off (don't brush so as to avoid ruining brush lines?)
*then anodise black.

black --> silver case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off
*try to produce brush lines on the body & dress plates similar to the silver cw02 (if they're not already there)

I imagine black -> silver (because of the last step) will require more work & hence more $ if I'm paying someone.
Do ya'll agree or do you feel I'm oversimplifying & that silver --> black would be more labour intensive?

Thank-you very much everyone.

Silverstone's just confirmed that both colours are brushed, sandblasted, & anodised, no paint involved!
http://www.avforums.com/forums/home...12s-silverstone-cw02-htpc-7.html#post14229443
That being the case, I don't see how one can argue that the silver case is a less complex transition?

These new findings mean my basic steps for transition above are wrong...
For black --> silver the 3rd & final step would be: *then do clear anodisation. Thoughts/advice anyone?

Thank-you.

 

[Arcygenical]

I'm kinda confused as to what you're asking, specifically. Your steps look sound.
It's actually quite easy to anodize bare aluminum to a clear color - and it's not particularly necessary.
Do you even have access to a company who will be doing the anodizing for you?

You can ask me specific questions via PM if you like, might be easier than sifting through a huge thread of individual comments and concerns.

 

[jalyst]

Arcygenical, thank-you for getting back to me, tis very much appreciated.
If you read all three posts it should become clear what points I'm seeking clarity on.
#18, #20, & #27
Have a squiz & if you still don't get it I'll try to distill it all, & then PM you.
Not now though, as it's 320am here...

Thanks again/night.

 

[Arcygenical]

Well, I agree that you'd want to clear anodize afterwards for a really high quality finish - But it wouldn't absolutely be necessary.

If you honestly want this to turn out well, you're likely going to have to take it to an aluminum anodization shop, get it stripped and re-colored. Since you don't seem inclined to do it yourself (which I certainly understand) just let the pro's handle it.

If you're wondering which would be more expensive - they'd both be the same. Either the silver would be stripped and anodized black | or the black would be stripped and hard (clear) anodized. Same steps either way. Going from black to silver might also require a sandblast treatment (not likely for commercial anodization whose main purpose is color, not durability).

Any time you're wiping the old anodization off, you should be using heavy duty work cloths, and you should be using nitrile gloves. You wouldn't be able to damage the stock brush marks with this thick towel, it should literally wipe off as it's been chemically pitted. I've had some sketchy luck with removing anodization with lye, sometimes it removes the color better in certain areas than others, and you get a mottled effect. A good soaking in the solution usually overcomes this.

There are literally thousands of finishes with powdercoating. It's a very high quality surface treatment.

 

[jalyst]

You read my mind, i was about to post a summary and then pm you the link!

Well, I agree that you'd want to clear anodize afterwards for a really high quality finish - But it wouldn't absolutely be necessary.

If silver to black's going to require black anodisation, then i wouldn't neglect doing the same for black to silver.

If you honestly want this to turn out well, you're likely going to have to take it to an aluminum anodization shop, get it stripped and re-colored. Since you don't seem inclined to do it yourself (which I certainly understand) just let the pro's handle it.

Yep absolutely... & it's by no means a forgone conclusion...
I may be happy with how the case looks, once everything else is in the room.

If you're wondering which would be more expensive - they'd both be the same. Either the silver would be stripped and anodized black | or the black would be stripped and hard (clear) anodized. Same steps either way.

Thank-you, as I suspected, so the colour choice gets tricky again!
Maybe my rad's colour should be a determining factor?

The H20-220 edge I'll be mounting on the back of my case is black.
It will be mounted like so: |__
.........................................|

The top vertical line is the rad sitting on it's longest edge, the other two are the top & back faces of the case.
As far as I can see, it's the most optimal place for the rad....

I think I very minutely prefer the look of the silver case, but I suspect my rad. will be a better fit with the black one.

Going from black to silver might also require a sandblast treatment.

Why's that?
Both models have had the same brushing/sandblasting done to them, before they were anodised to their original colours.

Any time you're wiping the old anodization off, you should be using heavy duty work cloths, and you should be using nitrile gloves. You wouldn't be able to damage the stock brush marks with this thick towel, it should literally wipe off as it's been chemically pitted. I've had some sketchy luck with removing anodization with lye, sometimes it removes the color better in certain areas than others, and you get a mottled effect. A good soaking in the solution usually overcomes this.

Handy to know in the event that paying someone is far too exorbitant, thanks!

There are literally thousands of finishes with powdercoating. It's a very high quality surface treatment.

I think I'll forget about powder-coating as an option, but thanks!

 

[jalyst]

Hi there Arcygenical, thought I'd give you a "breather" for well over 24hrs!
I don't suppose you can now add your thoughts in response to my last post? ^

 

[jalyst]

*bump* ...

 

[Arcygenical]

The reason going from black to silver may require a sandblasting treatment is simple, it depends on the degree to which the black anodization can be removed. If you get blotchy removal in some areas, the metal would respond well to re-treatment (either brushing or sandblasting) to get down to a uniform surface for re-anodization.

Again, it totally depends on a number of factors not limited to: efficiency of old color removal, quality of the original finish (the poorer it is the better for you!) competency of the shop doing it etc.

I can't see any more questions on your last post... You can always (and very easily) paint a radiator .

 

[jalyst]

The reason going from black to silver may require a sandblasting treatment is simple, it depends on the degree to which the black anodization can be removed. If you get blotchy removal in some areas, the metal would respond well to re-treatment (either brushing or sandblasting) to get down to a uniform surface for re-anodization.

So you know for a fact that clear anodisation will come-off much more easily than black anodisation?

I can't see any more questions on your last post...

This here:

Thank-you, as I suspected, so the colour choice gets tricky again!
Maybe my rad's colour should be a determining factor?

The H20-220 edge I'll be mounting on the back of my case is black.
It will be mounted like so: |__
.........................................|

The top vertical line is the rad sitting on it's longest edge, the other two are the top & back faces of the case.
As far as I can see, it's the most optimal place for the rad....

I think I very minutely prefer the look of the silver case, but I suspect my rad. is a better fit with the black one.

Not to sound pushy but...
If at all possible, could you please respond within the next hour or so? Thanks again so much!

 

[jalyst]

Arcygenical or anyone else? Thank-you.

 

[Arcygenical]

So you know for a fact that clear anodisation will come-off much more easily than black anodisation?



This here:


Not to sound pushy but...
If at all possible, could you please respond within the next hour or so? Thanks again so much!

I'm not 100% certain it will be easier to remove clear than black anodization - however, I would assume so... If you don't get all the black off, you'll certainly be able to tell!

I see nothing wrong with mounting your rad like that - and case colour is certainly your personal preference.

I only check the forums 1-2x a day, so I'm sorry if there are delays from time to time. If you use gmail and g-chat, send me an email (my forum username @ gmail.com) and we can talk real-time over the g-chat application (it should add me to your list automatically). I know your a ways off with the time change, but it will be easier for you to get ahold of me that way.

 

[jalyst]

My connection's being going up & down constantly for the past 6hrs
I doubt it'll be rectified any time soon... will have to gchat at a later time.

all the best/night.

 

[Arcygenical]

At your leisure. I'm usually around for basic conversation .

 

[jalyst]

...

 

[jalyst]

I've since determined there's little to no difference in transitioning from b to s or s to b.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/14229443-post188.html
At least not enough to warrant a difference in cost for a DIY'er, or someone professionally doing it for you.

Sometimes all the anodisation doesn't come-off cleanly (if you botch it slightly).
For this reason the black "can be" a trickier job, as when one goes to clear anodize it, any faint black splotches show-up.
Whereas for the silver, if there's any residual clear anodisation, anodising to black will not allow it to be seen.

But all this is only an issue if one stuff's up the Lye bath, essentially the transition for both is equally complicated.

So the basis of my decision is no longer "which transitions more easily" but rather;
Which "looks better" & is more understated/versatile as a colour for "my needs"

Considering black's qualities, that my AV gear is likely to be black, & that my radiator is black*...
I have chosen the CW02B & she's now on her way from Amazon, thanks to those with useful input earlier!

All the best.
*painting it silver won't make it look like the silver case, whereas the black rad. looks like the black case