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Question about WC

T

The Saint

Gawd
Joined
Mar 18, 2003
Messages
1,000
evening guys.......

I'm to the world of Water Cooling.

I do have one question: I'm really not into overclocking, mainly because I never had the need for it, really, although noise is a big factor for me and that is why I'm considering WC!

I have an Antec P160 case, which has a 120mm fans.

One very important thig is: I really wish not to mod the case in any way! Would it be possible to have a sweet noiseless setup (and a good performer too so I can try overcloking) while maintaing my case intact?
Is the swiftech RadBox worth considering? Never heard anything bad about it!

Would you guys be able to suggest something that will keep me happy?
I can spend as much as $200, give or take.

PS: The setup should be as simple and as safe as possible! :)

Thanks so much!
 
I just took a look at the P160 at Newegg, and I can't tell how the rear fan mounts to the case.

If it's got holes, you may be able to mount the radiator there. Either with very long screws, or sort of "hang it" from the holes with zip-ties. However, many pumps will be noisy unless bolted down which you can't do if you aren't willing to drill any holes at all. It would still be more quiet than your setup now most likely though if you just used an adhesive pad.

Are you planning on watercooling your video card and chipset too? If so, it's going to get near or over that $200 mark.

A good option would be to drill a 120mm blowhole in the top and mount the radiator there. Just one hole isn't too modded. :)
But that would probably only work if you had at least 2 5.25" bays vacant.
 
THanks DieLate!

The fan on the back is mounted via some rubber screws so it has holes.

I don`t think I will WC my Video card as of now, I might later on, but being a noob at this I want to take it a little slow and build the setup small steps at a time.

This is the RADBOX ..but I'm wondering if it will perform very good: I have a Vantec Stealth 120mm fan that I can mount on top of the radiator...

I could easily push to $250..so money is not really an object here...
 
To be honest, I haven't looked into the Radbox. Most people that have it seem to be happy with it but there's something I don't understand.

Anyone will tell you it's best to pull air through the radiator. However, in all the Radbox pictures on Swiftech's site, the fan is between the case and the radiator. So either, it's pushing air through the radiator (my guess), or pulling air through the radiator and exhausting it into your case.

Unless you flip your PSU fan(s) and front case fan around to exhaust hot air out the front, you're going to really mess up your airflow if the rear case fan becomes an intake.


So anyone out there with the Radbox? Are you pushing, and if so how is that working out for you?
 
DieLate, thanks for taking the time in thinking about this.

The fan is PUSHING the air towards the radiator and not towards the case.
There's a picture on Swiftech website that explains it...

:)
 
Also,
In regards to what block to buy, I'd get either a copper TDX with 3/8" OD barbs or a Swiftech MCW6000. That way you can use the Radbox the way it's meant to be used with 3/8" ID tubing. Both of those are good blocks. I personally like the TDX better, but there's no reason really. In fact, the Swiftech is a bit cheaper.

I myself am not planning on using a reservoir, just a fillport to bleed the system. You can do that without modding the case. Just don't drill a hole in the top of the case, and route the excess tubing up behind the drive bays.

For the pump I'd get the new DangerDen DDC-12V / Swiftech MCP350 pump (same thing). It's got 3/8" OD barbs which is perfect, plugs into your PSU (so no need to drill a hole for the cord or use a pump relay), and has good stats. It's expensive at $75-80, but worth it to me.

All that with tubing and a T piece (and Radbox) should cost at or below $200, so you should be good.
 
Thanks so much DieLate!

I was looking at the MCP350 right now! Its seems perfect, but it is so small that I'm concerned with noise...

Wouldn`t it be better to have 1/2" tubes rather than 3/8" or it does not make much difference?
 
Some people will say yes, some people will say no.
Either way really. I just figured it best to stick with one size for the whole setup. And considering the Radbox passthrough can only use 3/8" ID tubing, I'd go with that size for everything else.

I have actually been considering going 3/8 instead of 1/2 myself with a modded case, as it results in a higher pressure over the CPU (I think).
 
Oh, and in regards to the MCP350 being noisy, I haven't seen any reviews yet but I believe it will be quieter than its predecessor (MCP600/650).

To quote DD's site:
"The pump electronically commutated wet rotor design results in only one moving part in the entire pump. A spherically suspended rotor/impeller rests on top of a ceramic ball and is driven magnetically, thereby eliminating the need for a shaft motor connection. The pump lasts longer, consumes less power and offers superior performance characteristics when compared to other pumps in its class."

One moving part, a magnetically driven rotor/impeller. I can't imagine that making a lot of noise... :)
 
Thanks DieLate....

:)

I think I'll go for it then...

Once I'm back from vacations ( :D ) I'll start buying all the components, but I'll post here before pushing the BUY button
 
DieLate said:
Oh, and in regards to the MCP350 being noisy, I haven't seen any reviews yet but I believe it will be quieter than its predecessor (MCP600/650).

To quote DD's site:
"The pump electronically commutated wet rotor design results in only one moving part in the entire pump. A spherically suspended rotor/impeller rests on top of a ceramic ball and is driven magnetically, thereby eliminating the need for a shaft motor connection. The pump lasts longer, consumes less power and offers superior performance characteristics when compared to other pumps in its class."

One moving part, a magnetically driven rotor/impeller. I can't imagine that making a lot of noise... :)
Click to expand...

I'm just wondering: Do they believe this is new? Eheims been doing it for 20 years...
 
I want to ask a question about WC...

i'm still in the research phase of water cooling period.. just learning about parts and how to set up.. etc.. anyway here's my Q

would this sound reasonable?

Just water cool the CPU? is that reasonable? i mean say i use an ATI silencer on my 9800XT, and then water cool teh CPU.. should i worry about the harddrives adn the north bridge??

at the moment i have a 2500+ clocked at 3200+.. and when i get the ATI silencer i think i'm gonna try and push the 9800XT alittle..

with that said..

would it be okay to neglect the NB and HDDs?? or woulf it be better to include them in the cooling loop??

also.. if you include HDDs in the loop. how the hell to you fitthe water blocks on those things.. i've seen different blocks. .adnwell i don't see a way in hell to get the blocks and HDD to fit in a drive bay..

thanks
 
Alot of people just water cool their CPUs and the next larger group cool their CPU and GPU. There's not a big reason to water cool your NB unless you're a extreme OC'er IMHO and Hds are a waste if you have good air flow in your case. But in the end it's up to you and your check book and how much you want to impress your friends.................. :D
 
DieLate said:
I have actually been considering going 3/8 instead of 1/2 myself with a modded case, as it results in a higher pressure over the CPU (I think).
Click to expand...


Short answer: No. Since 3/8 tubing is mroe restrictive than 1/2", you could say it sort of "takes up" more of the pumps pressure, leaving the block with less. Whether or not it will be noticeable as far as heat transfer is concerned is debateable. Short answer to this: probably not, especially if extreme-performance cooling is not the goal.
 
I use 6x1 tubing, meaning 6mm ID. That would be a tad less than 1/4.

It works perfectly well, pump is an Aqua Computer Aquastream, 'bout the performance of an eheim 1046.

This, combined with a triple red for lanning and an old wall-mounted heater at home keeps the system below 30° at all times. So 1/4 ID seems enough. Also, 1/4 hoses are _very_ easy to route.
 
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