Question about subwoofer output.

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DEF Hater

Limp Gawd
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Aug 19, 2009
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I have a Sony STR-DG910 that has 4 subwoofer outputs. On all the subs I am looking at they have the RCA red and white and a LFE input. Are the subwoofer outputs on my reciever LFE? If not what connection am I looking for? Also if anyone would like to recommend a sub for under $300, I would appreciate it.
 
SVS makes a fantastic sub. They're a bit more than $300 new, but you may be able to find a used one if you are open to that market.

I recently picked up a 7.1 set of Monitor Audio speakers from Craigslist. I got the whole deal for $500, which included a subwoofer. I'd have to say that this 10" sounds a million times better than the 12" I had before. I don't think you're going to find a new one for $300, but it's another brand to look at.
 
On a budget, I don't think this can really be beat:

BIC H-100

Now, it is far from being the end all for subwoofers, but in it's price range, I don't think there really are many other options. I researched for a good 6 months with the price that I was willing to pay in mind, and it came down to this, and the BIC F12. I chose the H-100 for finish and WAF.

You can do far better for about 2x the money and up, but I wasn't willing to go there yet. I am very pleased with it.


EDIT: I usually hate to make recommendations that go over the budget listed in the OP, but if you could possibly stretch your sub budget to $350, the Elemental Designs A2-300 comes very highly recommended, for $350 shipped. The only caveat with ED is they build to order, with a lead time of about 4-6 weeks.

Also, to answer your first question, the sub outs on your receiver can connect to the LFE or line level input of a given sub, the difference being that, typically, the LFE input of a sub will bypass the sub's internal crossover, allowing you to handle bass management through the receiver, whereas the line inputs are subject to the sub's internal crossover. It really doesn't matter either way, as if you end up with a sub with ONLY line inputs and no LFE, you can just dial the sub's crossover as high as it will go, and use the receiver to cross it over to your mains instead.
 
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I just looked at a picture of the back of that receiver and it has one LFE output. It's the single black one titled Sub Woofer. Just head over to Monoprice for a digital coax cable if you don't already have one. They're inexpensive and work well. You could also use a thick, well shielded RCA cable.

I would agree that the BIC is an awesome sub for that price.
 
cerwinvega said:
On a budget, I don't think this can really be beat:

BIC H-100

Now, it is far from being the end all for subwoofers, but in it's price range, I don't think there really are many other options. I researched for a good 6 months with the price that I was willing to pay in mind, and it came down to this, and the BIC F12. I chose the H-100 for finish and WAF.

You can do far better for about 2x the money and up, but I wasn't willing to go there yet. I am very pleased with it.


EDIT: I usually hate to make recommendations that go over the budget listed in the OP, but if you could possibly stretch your sub budget to $350, the Elemental Designs A2-300 comes very highly recommended, for $350 shipped. The only caveat with ED is they build to order, with a lead time of about 4-6 weeks.

Also, to answer your first question, the sub outs on your receiver can connect to the LFE or line level input of a given sub, the difference being that, typically, the LFE input of a sub will bypass the sub's internal crossover, allowing you to handle bass management through the receiver, whereas the line inputs are subject to the sub's internal crossover. It really doesn't matter either way, as if you end up with a sub with ONLY line inputs and no LFE, you can just dial the sub's crossover as high as it will go, and use the receiver to cross it over to your mains instead.
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I couldn't agree more. I went with the BIC H-100 then resold it within a week for the eD a2-300. The bic is great for the price, but the eD is a significant bump up in dB and quality for the extra $125 or so.

Also, the BIC H-100 was discontinued and has a stronger better replacement model. I don't remember the name but it is about $300 as well, check avs forum.
 
96redformula said:
I couldn't agree more. I went with the BIC H-100 then resold it within a week for the eD a2-300. The bic is great for the price, but the eD is a significant bump up in dB and quality for the extra $125 or so.

Also, the BIC H-100 was discontinued and has a stronger better replacement model. I don't remember the name but it is about $300 as well, check avs forum.
Click to expand...

That would be the PL-200, for $329. At that price, I'd have to say, donate some blood or something to get $350 for the ED :D
 
Thanks everyone for the answers. I think I will save up a little more and then make a decision on the sub. I am totally out of the loop when it comes to speakers. My current set-up has a Boston Acoustics center channel, Boston Acoustics HS 450s towers and cheap jvc surrounds. I am hoping a sub will make a great difference in my current set-up.
 
DEF Hater said:
Thanks everyone for the answers. I think I will save up a little more and then make a decision on the sub. I am totally out of the loop when it comes to speakers. My current set-up has a Boston Acoustics center channel, Boston Acoustics HS 450s towers and cheap jvc surrounds. I am hoping a sub will make a great difference in my current set-up.
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Should be a very noticable difference since your towers do not have a very low extension with the 5.5" woofers on them. You are going to hear all the things that seemed "missing" before. Be sure you setup your crossover points correctly.

You will notice in movies a huge difference overall. You might not notice a big difference in music, depending on the types of music you listen too and depending on how low those speakers really go, compared to what they claim.
 
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I have a SVS PB-10 ISD that's sitting and doing nothing..there are two cosmetic nicks on the top. One pin sized one fingernail sized. Nothing wrong with the driver itself.

ISD is the first iteration of the driver. NSD is a slight upgrade/tweak that rolled out a few years later.

I upgraded to a SVS 20-39pci and moved to a condo = only 5.1. When we were in a house, I ran these in 7.2 and it was a good amount of bass. A good, good amount.

Throw me a PM if you want it, I'm located in San Diego. I'd like to get...275? + s/h...
 
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