[Pumps] Max safe GPH rating

[Odio]

I'm looking to replace my weak 80GPH pump with something more robust. I have the bright idea of using a 1000GPH bilge pump. But I have to wonder, will the pressure from a 1000GPH super mega deluxe bilge pump be too much for the seals on my waterblock to withstand?

Any advice?

 

[novadude]

Go for something that's designed for computers, like the swiftech MCP655 or 355w/top. Even the Iwaki's some people use only put out ~320gph.

 

[Snoozer]

I'm looking to replace my weak 80GPH pump with something more robust. I have the bright idea of using a 1000GPH bilge pump. But I have to wonder, will the pressure from a 1000GPH super mega deluxe bilge pump be too much for the seals on my waterblock to withstand?

Any advice?

I don't think you will get any where near 1000 GPH through standard water cooling tubing. However, why not try it? Just make sure you leak test prior to using it. Also please keep in mind that your bilge pump was never designed for 100% duty like a computer water pump is.

 

[Odio]

Go for something that's designed for computers, like the swiftech MCP655 or 355w/top. Even the Iwaki's some people use only put out ~320gph.

Out of my price range. I can only afford ~$40. Also, this is going to be used in a chilled liquid application, so an inline pump is a no-go.

 

[TehQuick]

Out of my price range. I can only afford ~$40. Also, this is going to be used in a chilled liquid application, so an inline pump is a no-go.

huh? it's only $30 more and it won't fry your components because of a failure under the stress of running it continuously. Are you saying you can afford killing off your computer but not a reliable pump? Why risk it?

 

[Arcygenical]

Out of my price range. I can only afford ~$40. Also, this is going to be used in a chilled liquid application, so an inline pump is a no-go.

Go for a pond pump then... Something designed for a 1.00 duty cycle.

Uhm, and no need for 1000GPM, even if that's nowhere near what the pump can actually deliver in a restricted loop.

 

[psyshack]

One stop looking at water flow by gph! Look at gpm. Take swifies came of 317 gph out ot a 1/2" ANSI suction and discharge with a max of 10' of head. Ok so its dafe to say it dead heads at 10',,,,, point of no flow. 0 foot of head @317 gph. That 5 gpm in a good lag quality no head loop! Let me tell you 5 gpm+ is a whoop as number in a no head flow. I have yet to see a power verse's npshr low curve. Or a overload motor power curve. Guess i need to make my own curve.

Point is. You take a 1000 gph pump at what head? Then you throw in a max of 5/8" ID pipe or tubing. The pump will be in cavitation. Is it 100% duty rated? Most submerged pumps are not rated for such duty. I work with Navy and Coast Guard on true bilge pumps. They are always 100% brass and SS nuts na bolts and are inline or end suction pumps.

If you wanted to get balls to the wall concerning a pump. Get say,,,, a B&G PL-30 all bronze inline pump. Put a relay in and kick as 24/7.

I rep Myers, B&G, Weil, Goulds, Hydroflow and others.The last thing you want to do is put to much pump on any loopor not pay attention to the npsh or r bottom curve IMPO I think one of the biggist failures in pump / loop configs concerning a res is low npsh numbers greatly reducing the pumps discharge ablitiys thus inducing cut water issues.

IE one thing the little swify has over the big one with good on top res design is little npsh issue. Its like a B&G VSC or VSX minus the dual suction impeller. Thus reducing cut water issues.

Im rambling,,,, sorry

Point is DO NOT OVER SIZE YOUR PUMP. And if you must over size. Look into flow control,,, IE inducing head and finding the most eff. point of dif. psi between the eye of impeller verse's the psi diff. and cut water slag.

ramble off