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pump holding me back?
- Thread starter Teknokid
- Start date
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
Nope.
Chances are your rad was never your weak spot anyways... It was a good upgrade for adding a gfx card (as Im pretty sure you were planning)... but for a single CPU going from a 2.120 to 3.120 radiator doesn't do much.
Waterblock and ambient temp make more difference with a single CPU.
Chances are your rad was never your weak spot anyways... It was a good upgrade for adding a gfx card (as Im pretty sure you were planning)... but for a single CPU going from a 2.120 to 3.120 radiator doesn't do much.
Waterblock and ambient temp make more difference with a single CPU.
what he said. if you were using, say, 80% of your radiators total-heat-dissipating-action before, now your using like 60%, so instead of having 20% of head room to work with (before you max it out), you now have 40% (which is a good thing)... horray beer.
edit: those temps arent high at all for a 6600 at 3.4. and if you want a new pump then get one, you dont NEED one though.
edit: those temps arent high at all for a 6600 at 3.4. and if you want a new pump then get one, you dont NEED one though.
not realy, water temps only vary a few degrees at any point in the loop, and 48C core temp is not the temp of the water. also its more efficient to do this:
radiator>resevoir>pump>CPU>(any other blocks)>radiator
that way the cool(er) water from the radiator is pumped into the cpu with the highest pressure possible, directly out of the pump. you might see a 1-3 degree drop if you switch this around.
radiator>resevoir>pump>CPU>(any other blocks)>radiator
that way the cool(er) water from the radiator is pumped into the cpu with the highest pressure possible, directly out of the pump. you might see a 1-3 degree drop if you switch this around.
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
FYI those conroes appear to run hot.
They don't ACTUALLY run hot, but the temperature diode is closer to an execution core than in previous intel and AMD setups... Therefore, it appears hotter. 48 is a great load temp for a conroe. I'm loading closer to 60 with TAT (about 95% of my radiator's capacity is used up
) using a precision lapped Danger den TDX waterblock (0.5mm between the bottom of the pins and the flat base...).You're probably using about 30% of your triple radiator right now. The good news, however, is that adding in your GTX block won't really affect temperatures much. You'd be up to like 60% of the radiator's capacity, with lots of room to spare.
IF you got a new pump, you might see a bit of a temperature difference, depending on your waterblock. The storm and I believe the fuzion both like as much flow as they can get.
The water that leaves the block is generally only a few degrees higher than the water that enters the block. Since water is SUCH a dense fluid, you need to add ALOT of heat to it to get it's temperature to rise (note: Heat and temperature are 2 different things. Heat is the SUM of all thermal energy in the fluid and TEMPERATURE is the average amount of heat that each water molecule has absorbed. What this means is, you need to add quite a few watts, like in the 600-700s in order to get water's temperature to rise a substantial amount). For example, water before my radiator (hot) stays around 32c. Water after the radiator stays around 26c. But my CPU temp is closer to 60c, and my GPU temp is in the 40s.
If I may add...
The order of your components does NOT really matter all that much.
Think of NASCAR. On a 2 mile loop, a car travelling at 100mph hits the exact same spot every 1.2 minutes (1 minute, 12 seconds). It doesn't matter if the car is going left or right, or if the track is full of ups and downs and circles. If the track is 2 miles long, and the car is going 100mph, it will always hit the same spot every 1 minute, 12 seconds.
Same with your water in your system. It dosen't matter what your loop really looks like. Each water droplet hits the same spot at the same time every cycle. It will pick up as much water as it can in the brief moment it goes by, and then shed it wherever it can. But, the whole of your system is constantly moving.
So, it really doesn't matter too, too much about the order. Don't spend 4 days moving everything around, when you won't notice any changes.
What is the temperature of the air in the room? Are you truly using cool air to pass over the radiator? Do you have good contact with the waterblocks?
The answers to those questions are more crucial than the order of pump, waterblock, radiator.
The order of your components does NOT really matter all that much.
Think of NASCAR. On a 2 mile loop, a car travelling at 100mph hits the exact same spot every 1.2 minutes (1 minute, 12 seconds). It doesn't matter if the car is going left or right, or if the track is full of ups and downs and circles. If the track is 2 miles long, and the car is going 100mph, it will always hit the same spot every 1 minute, 12 seconds.
Same with your water in your system. It dosen't matter what your loop really looks like. Each water droplet hits the same spot at the same time every cycle. It will pick up as much water as it can in the brief moment it goes by, and then shed it wherever it can. But, the whole of your system is constantly moving.
So, it really doesn't matter too, too much about the order. Don't spend 4 days moving everything around, when you won't notice any changes.
What is the temperature of the air in the room? Are you truly using cool air to pass over the radiator? Do you have good contact with the waterblocks?
The answers to those questions are more crucial than the order of pump, waterblock, radiator.