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Proposed CPU loop.. first timer

J

jagz

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 3, 2012
Messages
111
Hey, I posted this in OCN last night but looking for more feedback

finalWClayout.jpg


I have a NH-D14, It's great, but I have problems with the rest of my current configuration. I have Antec Kuhler 620's on my 580's and the rads are both exhausting out the front I Don't even close my side panel because the GPU temps rise & the air through the Antec Kuhler rad's diminishes.

I can't put a Kuhler rad in the top left because the NH-D14 is in the way. I can't put one on the top, also because the NH-D14 is in the way. My completely ghetto setup ATM has to go.

The reason I'm not going with any of the RASA kits is so I can use better tubing, better pump, better res, & hand picked fittings.

WC200mmrad.png



Does everything look right? Add a DDC Pump for $35 on top of that and we are looking at $328. Sizes correct? Good choices?



I'll always be F@H, Atleast on the CPU. ATM my temps are 70c,77c,78c,76c. This is my standard with my current OC of 4.6Ghz (2600k) @ 1.345v. What kind of temperature decrease do you all think I'm looking at with the proposed WC?

The Phobya 3/4" OD clamps may not sound right for the tubing but they are
 
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It's hard to say. I have a similar CPU loop (video card isn't in the loop yet). My temps are around 65c while folding but my cpu is at 4.8Ghz and 1.425v which would add more heat than yours.

You should test different fan layouts, but from what I've seen you'll be better off with fans on the inside exhausting out through the RX240 radiator. These radiators are also very low restriction so lower speed fans are just as good. I recently went from the xspc 1650rpm fans which were quite audible at full speed to some GT AP-13's 1150rpm fans and saw no increase in temps.
 
Thanks. Yes I now plan to exhaust out the top. How does the part list look? Would a 280 rad be worth it over the 240? (space is an issue though)

Should I gauge how much tube I need, hook up everything outside the case and let it ride for a day first?

Another thing, I was going to use distilled water, anything I need to add to it? Would I be better off just buying a coolant?
 
I generally don't recommend 280 over 240 because quality 140mm fans are hard to come by.
If you're able to do a rough measurement that's always good to do, but either way 10ft should be plenty and give you enough spare in case you need to change something in the future.

For my installs I install everything in the case, route the tubing, and fill up with distilled water. You should get a kill coil as well which will prevent any bacteria growth etc. I use the paperclip method and jumper the PSU so I can power only the water pump. This way if there are any leaks nothing will be damaged because power isn't going through anything but the pump. I usually also put paper towels down all around the parts just in case for easy cleanup. You'll need to manuever your case around more than likely to get the air bubbles out. You can run it for a day or so to get most of the air bubbles out and check for any leaks. Even after that you'll need to double check your water level regularly because it will steadily go down over time as more air is brought to the top of your res.
 
Seconding just using distilled water with a silver killcoil. And forget about dye. Seriously. It looks cool, but the crap it deposits in all your blocks, pump and tubing is NOT cool when it breaks down. And it WILL break down, no matter what dye proponents will tell you. Just grab some Primochill colored tubing. Pretty colored water problem solved :)
 
I'm about to do my first full water cooling build too. So, I may be wrong about what's below.

The tubing you have is 7/16" x 5/8", but the compression fittings you have are 1/2" x 3/4". My understanding is that your tubing will fit over the barb very snugly, and you may have to use hot water to soften up the tubing. That is fine. However, the outside diameter of the tubing is smaller than the ring of the compression fitting. Won't that make an insecure connection?
 
ugapug said:
forget about dye. Seriously. It looks cool, but the crap it deposits in all your blocks, pump and tubing is NOT cool when it breaks down. And it WILL break down, no matter what dye proponents will tell you.
Click to expand...

Only if you're doing it all wrong...

Have seen 5yr+ dyed loops without all these "unavoidable" things happening. The trick is to not use low quality crap. Also have seen "pure" distilled/silver coil loops rusted up with deposits/corrosion, which other liquids will give you some protection against. "Dye breakdown" cases i've seen have been people using junk or mixing junk with other things, corrosion/low quality components, mixing metals etc. which would affect distilled water even more. :p

The answer is that whatever you use needs maintenance. Change whatever fluid every 2-3 years and keep a general eye on things and theres nothing to worry about. If someone thinks thats too much effort, then water cooling probably isn't for them.
 
Ok, forget the dye and coolant liquid and stuff, now Rylan has me thinking about the compatibility of my part list? Anyone else?

Also, I already have high speed yate loon's.. Worth it to drop $38 on a pair of AP-15's to use instead?
 
Where does the temperature sensor go?

The fittings are 1/2" ID 3/4" OD and the tubing is 7/16" ID 5/8 OD? It will fit on the fittings fine with a little hot water stretching, but the compression fittings outer ring might not do much. The clamps are for 17.4mm minimum diameter tubing and the tubing listed is 15.875mm outer diameter, so those should be loose too (get the next size down?).

GTs are more pleasant sounding, and will (probably) push more air, but it's really up to you. Either will be fine, one will just be more fine. :D
 
I think the clamps are fine, read the very last link of the OP at the bottom Yeah i'm pretty sure all of those sizes are correct, a friend on OCN recommended those sizes, has a similar WC setup, if they aren't please yell at me
 
jagz said:
Ok, forget the dye and coolant liquid and stuff, now Rylan has me thinking about the compatibility of my part list? Anyone else?

Also, I already have high speed yate loon's.. Worth it to drop $38 on a pair of AP-15's to use instead?
Click to expand...

I'd stick with the yate loons for now. They're almost as good as many of the best fans for a fraction of the price, buying more expensive fans when you already have the yates on hand is just too hard to justify.
 
jagz said:
I think the clamps are fine, read the very last link of the OP at the bottom Yeah i'm pretty sure all of those sizes are correct, a friend on OCN recommended those sizes, has a similar WC setup, if they aren't please yell at me
Click to expand...

Yes, the clamps are fine, but I'm 99.99% positive the compression fitting rings are the wrong size for the tubing you chose.

You want these if that's the size tubing you're going with:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1095&products_id=34531
 
I'm told I'd have a better fit with the 1/2, but it's true at that point the compressions aren't really even needed I suppose. I should just get the size Rylan said? The 7/16" x 5/8" for my 7/16" x 5/8" tube?
 
I have changed it to 7/16" monsoon compression fittings. Hopefully those clamps I have are fine, according to frozencpu they are.

Temp difference going from 240 rad to 360 rad? worth it?
 
jagz said:
I have changed it to 7/16" monsoon compression fittings. Hopefully those clamps I have are fine, according to frozencpu they are.

Temp difference going from 240 rad to 360 rad? worth it?
Click to expand...

From what I've read, if you're only cooling your CPU, you're not going to see a big difference in temps. However, if you want to be able to add other components to the loop in the future, it may be worth it to pull the trigger on the 360 now.
 
Ok thanks, Yeah I don't see that happening.. atleast not with 580 LE's.. $185 per block or so..

Alright, I updated the list, Hopefully it's the final one? Think I'm fairly sorted out now.

I'm now going with a Phobya Xtreme 200mm rad & a NZXT FN-200RB 200mm fan. Sound good?
 
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