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Project: SoulTaker - Redux

Gh()st

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Messages
473
Well its been 2+ yrs since I did my original mod. There's been a slew of key component upgrades, and some still yet to come.

To make room and increase capacity for all the changes (past, present, and future), it seems appropriate to refresh the entire setup.

Here's the old configuration:

Tt Armor modified with the a custom plexi top that holds the BIP II, and a custom plexi full face front panel. 2 CD/DVD slots were cutout, but I'm currently only using 1 drive. You can see the open/empty space for the 2nd plexi drive door cover. I originally had 2 drives, but pulled 1 for use in another workstation.

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Here's an inside pic for reference.

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You can see in the above pic the top mounted BIP II, alphacool plexi topped Laing DDC pump, BI GT 120 rad, Apogee GT CPU block, Maze 4 GPU block on a 8800 GT, and the double 3.5 plexi bay res. (in a 5.25 bay)

I'll be keeping the pump, CPU block, and bay res. The GPU block will be exchange for a FC 4870 block to accompany the new 4870 vid card that's replacing the 8800 GT.

The biggest change is being made to the case itself. Everything is being moved from the Tt Armor, to a BB Rocketfish. (aka re-badged Lian-Li). I'd post a pic of the case pre-mod, but I've been a little over eager in my work, and have already taken the one I have apart. If you need a reminder of what one looks like, take a look over here:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1299962

I do have a quick shot of the internal setup for reference as well.

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The BIP II, and BI GT 120 are being replaced by a Swifty MCR320, and MCR 220 respectively. Some of the parts have already arrived, and others are on their way.

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I'll still be using Yates on the rads, and PC Ice for fluid. (albeit a different color coming soon. Awaiting the UV Dye bomb delivery.) The UV Yates are going to be used as fan shrouds. ( I know some folks are cringing on that fact, but they're the cheapest 120mm blue LED UV reactive fans I can find, seriously.)

On that topic, I've already hit 1 snag. I originally bought 4 120mm Yate UV quad blue LED fans awhile back. I only need 1 more for what I'm doing, and when the additional arrived today, it appears Yate has made a slight design change. The UV frames are now a different color. (at least from the same prior vendor/the bottom fan is newer)

P1010748.jpg


:(

O'tay.

Well, I still want to use UV reactive, blue LED lit 120mm fan shrouds. I guess picking up 4 more of the new ones for <$20 shipped is nothing to cry about. ;)

I'm still waiting for the replacement modified side panel, and 320 RadGrillz. I'm kinda held hostage by the RadGrillz delivery, as I need it to do the top mod.

Which reminds me. I'm going to be doing something similar to the original mod. I'm mixing textures. Sure, the Rocketfish is nice with its brushed aluminum, but I'll be adding other materials to the mix. While I'll be doing a similar plexi topped rad mount, I'm currently debating on the front. Either the swing door, or inside front bezel panel will be redone in plexi (or both). I'm also trying to figure out how I'd like to incorporate this relic I found in the closet:

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It's a Noritake GU128X32-311 VFD

When I bought it awhile back I tried to make my own parallel connection cable. That didn't seem to work out so well. The unit lights up, but my soldering skillz need some work, so I'm not 100% on whether I made the cable correctly.

I've been tossing around the fact that I should even mess with this aspect, but I think adding it (or something similar) would be a +plus. I can buy something pre-fab for apprx $100, but I've already invested in this unit. Might as well give it a shot. I've got the materials needed to make another parallel cable/connector, so we'll see how that goes. The box actually sits under my desk (albeit, it's a all glass desk), so a front display is kinda pointless. I'm actually thinking of replacing the case's top mounted multiport connector with the display. That way I can see it from the top. We'll see. The odd PCB shape makes for a difficult top mount with the MCR320, in the given space.

I'll post as changes/updates become available.

:cool:
 
Just a quick pic update.

Looks like Santa's brown clad elves are hard at work doing their summer jobs. Found these dropped off on my front doorstep today.

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I'll be using the Xigma to replace my current water loop. This will let me do all the water prep work needed, and still have this computer to work from.....

I may keep it after all is done, as a backup, or I may sell it. We'll see.

More to come, as I find time this weekend. (Gotta split time between this, and my "Honey-Do" list.) :rolleyes: :D
 
A quick text update.

I'm de-riveting the case right now to prep for painting.

I'm debating on how I want to re-do the mobo tray. What I would like to do is replace it with a sheet of carbon fiber. I don't have much experience with this material, but I do understand it's difficult to work with. (takes patience, and a lot of blades to cut)

I have 2 questions for anyone that does have experience shaping/cutting carbon fiber.

Can cut edges be smoothed sanded to give a polished/rounded finish? (like acrylic)

As far as mobo mounting screws go, can the material be tapped/threaded, or would I need some sort of brass/metal pre-tapped insert?

My original thought was to use cabon fiber vinyl film to cover the mobo tray, and other parts, but now I'm thinking of utilizing the real stuff instead. Using vinyl film would be much easier, and quicker to accomplish, though. (as well as less expensive in the long run. I'm looking to mod the case, not make it more more material expensive than the parts inside.)
 
Well,

Time for a WAY over do update.

Remember that honey-do-list I mentioned?

Well.... I've been trapped with that taking up all my free time. Good news is.. I've made progress... Bad news is.. I've got a long way to go.

Master Bathroom re-model project pics - current status:

Shower and tub very much a WIP.

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Vanity wall, and counter-tops almost done.

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Guest Bathroom counter-top/back-splash/sink replacement - current status:

75% done

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On the "Real" project status, I'm making the moves to pull the currnet water loop hardware, and install the temporary HSF for the CPU. Also installing the 4870 vid card using the stock HSF for the interim, while I get the new case prep'ed for water.

P1020113_resize.jpg


Oh, and the new Lian-Li replacement side panel arrived today. Big Thanks! goes out to the guys at http://www.performance-pcs.com

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On the carbon fiber note, I've decided to go with the vinyl wrap. Yeah, I know. Not the same texture effect, but it's obvious my time is split right now. Plus, the vinyl will actually let me do some things at a lower cost, that should turn out undistinguishable from the real stuff.

Oh, and the VFD is a NO-GO. I'm shopping for a replacement now. Looks like a Matrix Orbital Typhoon will be my best option. (reason for the change: forgot that my IP35 Pro mobo DOESN'T HAVE A LPT/parrallel port.. DOH!. I'm such an idiot!)
 
Just a quickie...

1. Water loop, and 8800GT removed. (yeah I know.. colorful towel. Hey, it's a work towel.)

P1020126_resize.jpg


2. Xigmatek and 4870 installed.

P1020128_resize.jpg


Now to start on the new case.....
 
PHhhhhh...PHhhhh /blows the dust off :eek:

Alright, well I've been occupied. (Remember that Honey-Do-List?)

BUT....

I have new found freedom to get back on task. (primarily 1 HDL item is complete, and the other has been deferred for 4-6 weeks. yay!)

Starting on the interior layout before painting. I've been tackling some challenges with mounting the W/C items. Particularly around the pump and reservoir mounting. The actual challenge is spacing when considering I'm internally mounting both rads, the res, compression fittings, and tube bends. Although this Rocketfish case is big internally speaking, you'd be surprised how quickly that space can be used. (and not by electronics) Oh, and on that note, here's a pic of the new res. It's not a pre-fab EK, or Alphacool, but something handmade. I stumbled across while searching for alternate tube style reservoirs.

P1020243_resize.jpg


Like the res? Here's TribalOVERKILL's A.C. Ryan forum blog for the res: http://www.acryan.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=205&p=1868#p1868

Awesome res IMHO. 8x G1/4" options. 9"x2.5". This is 1 of the 18 (I think) he made. Not sure I can call it custom (?), but definitely a rare species. :p :D He's got an eBay page up, where others are available for purchase. I'd pick up another, but I definitely don't have room. (but that may change.....)

Anyways, On to more....

Top taped, and stenciled for cutting for the rad mount.

P1020275_resize.jpg


While working on the interior rad/pump/res mount challenge, I hit another issue.

The case comes with a 1x120mm slot blower to be used with a rear configured vent. The new side panel I have has it's own vent for slot blowers. Fortunately, I have a spare Lian-Li 120mm fan slot blower mount (non-rear vented). (old slot blower in the lower left corner/on the floor)

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The new slot blower, and side panel vent don't align. (of course! :rolleyes: )

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That's OK though, as Lian-li used the same dimensions for the brackets mounting holes for the rear slot vent.(Thanks!) I just need to drop the top mounts down until I can align the fan to the vent, and then tap 2 new bottom hole to secure the bracket.

P1020272_resize.jpg


My next challenge... How I want to mount the rads. My original design is out the door, as I don't have the vertical room needed. I'm essentially being screwed by the the difference in dimensions between the Swifty rads, and the A.C. Ryan Rad-Grillz. I need a spacer. I was going to use 120mm fan frames, but now that's too much gap occupation. The Bitspower compression fittings from performance-pcs.com are on their way, so once I have them in house I'll have a better idea on spacing. Another issue is with the DangerDen delrin T splitter, but like I said we'll see once they hit the front doorstep.

I'm working on final considerations toward artwork, and layout, as well as HDD mounting. (C'mon, I've got a window'ed Raptor. I've got to show it off somewhere.)

More to come...
 
The bathroom looks ill man i really like that, and the computer is getting there! Keep it up!
 
The bathroom looks ill man i really like that, and the computer is getting there! Keep it up!

Thanks! :D

Here's some quick pics of the guest bath vanity 95% done. (All I need to do is finish out the wall mirror painted frame)

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Oh, and my new CPU W/C block arrived today. It's XSPC Delta 3. (Thanks Jab-Tech.com!)

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Dude you should have you're own theme song......" I'm the Handy Man. " Excellent stuff and yes that res looks awesome!!
 
Dude you should have you're own theme song......" I'm the Handy Man. " Excellent stuff and yes that res looks awesome!!

Thanks!

I constantly get involuntarily volunteered for all kinds of stuff by my family and friends for just that reason. ;)

Another day, another package on the doorstep when I get home.

New fittings have arrived. 7/16ID by 5/8OD compression fittings. (almost $100 just for these. :eek: ) The DD delrin T, G1/4" stops for the unused res ports. Some u-channel, and 2x acrylic 5mm LED G1/4" stops to light the res.

P1020302_resize.jpg
 
cool bathroom , what color is that and what did u use for the counter top ... looks like small stones ?
good job on the pc too.
 
cool bathroom , what color is that and what did u use for the counter top ... looks like small stones ?
good job on the pc too.

Thanks!

It's tumbled marble. 3/8" on 12"x12" sheets. White/grey is the main color pattern with some natural stone cream/butter tints.

P1020378_resize.jpg


The true actual colors didn't really show up until I sealed the marble.

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In the end, came out pretty good IMHO. :eek:

Ok, now that I'm not distracted with that project, here's some more pics.

Top and bottom rad mounts outlined, and ready for cutting.

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Bottom cut completed, with the rad grill placed.

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Oh, and while on the bottom side of things..... I've been struggling with a good solution for the case feet/stand. I need to raise the bottom off the floor due to the bottom mount rad, and need something that'll give a 1"+ gap. Giving consideration to the actual height of this particular case, I wanted something with a broader, heavier, foot than standard case feet. There are some custom solutions out there, but nothing really close to what's in my mind's eye.

After much searching, and $$ spent on possible candidates, I think I've settled on the solution. I always liked the bottom bar supports of the CM Cosmos cases. I already purchased something I thought might fit the bill/work effectively, but I always had an itch on my mind for something better.

I found the scratch for that itch today. I had a feeling my local Expo Center had potential to facilitate my need for the scratch, and sure enough it did.

P1020383_resize.jpg


While I wish I could find a longer version, these will do nicely..

More updates forth coming...Art work will be added shortly. I finally found the skull & crossbones I want to use. Need to incorporate it with some other things, and consult a graphics designer for the final rendition.

Also, since the feet will now be chrome, I need to find a way to incorporate that into the mod. I'll be sending the case frame out for a pro powder coated paint job. I had intended to cover the mobo mount tray with carbon fiber vinyl film. I've had second thoughts now, when thinking about all of the pre-drilled/existing mounting options. Those unused mounting holes, while being covered initially by the film, may show up later with age. (as the film further conforms/shrinks to the shape over time.) Looks like I'll need to have the mobo tray chromed/plated.

Stay tuned.....
 
Ok, both rad mount cuts completed. The case is pretty much stripped for the powder coating. I still need to make the appropriate PSU cable routing holes on the mobo tray before removing it for the powder coating. (Tray will be coated separately.)

Working on mounting the case feet for now. Front and back feet set. I now need to decide how I should mount the side feet.

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I'm thinking about setting them in a more forward set/stance. Possibly even more forward than this pic.


P1020414_resize.jpg



Or I can do the usual middle mount.


P1020417_resize.jpg



Funny how the camera makes me look like I'm wearing a Robin Williams hair suit. ( :eek: ) Fortunately, that's not the case. I'll never be as hairless as Howie Mandel's cue ball for a skull, but a wookie I'm not.

Anyways, looking for some input on the side install. You guys think the middle looks good? The pic with the more forward set? Maybe all the way up front in sort of a tri-foot stance? The easiest to do is the all the way forward. The mobo tray mount makes challenges for the middle mount definitely, and the semi middle is do-able (but still not easy) I'm thinking the tri-foot up front would work well, considering the PSU will bring enough low weight in the back to balance out.

Thoughts?
 
Is it necessary?

Well, that's the arguable aspect.

Considering how tall this case is, and the fact that there will be some top weight with the 360 rad full of fluid, I have some concerns regarding the lateral "sway" potential with the case. Yeah, It's not going to be moved once in place, but the side-to-side stability is of "some" concern. Plus, I've already bought the 2 sides (@ $20 each), so I might as well use them.
 
Time to resurrect the dead.

More work done.

Ok, so the last update showed I had the bottom rad mount cut-out completed.

P1020408_resize.jpg


Bottom stands/feet have been added.

P1020513_resize.jpg


Yes, the rad mount is deliberately off-center, due to the mobo tray mounting. The feet are even though.

Top and bottom rad mounting to get an idea of inside space requirements.

P1020507_resize.jpg


And this is where I hit the wall in the delay for updates. It became very apparent that at this point that the new reservoir, in combination with the pump mount position, would not work. The res was just too long.

The res is 9" long/high. I could not fit the res in the vertical space between the bottom and top rads, and also account for the pump's mounting space (plus subsequent fittings/tubings space runs/bends needed.) This put me in a big pickle for quite awhile. I didn't want to go back to a bay res solution, but after spending quite some time on alternate tube mounting options (I want everything internal) I just couldn't make the res fit in its current form. I reached out the the original MFG'er, but he advised he no longer had the resources needed to make any modifications. So I measured, pondered, measured, pondered, and measured some more. No Go. I then set out on a search for a 2x bay res that would work. Only problem is, I can't seem to find a bay res that fits my needs. I need a res with 2 inputs, and 1 output (not counting the fillport). No one makes a bay res with these options any longer (at least not available on most US/UK vendor's websites)

Soooo... back to the tube. Man I thought I was screwed, but after fiddling with the tube res I noticed a problem. I had removed 1 of the caps to clear some debris, and check to see if I could install an Alphacool Melvin res tube. After reconnecting the cap, I noticed a small crack growing along a screw line. !@@$!$^&%&** :mad:

BUT, this actually worked out in my favor. Who needs a bandsaw, or precise machining. I've got a manual miter joint hand saw setup for cutting baseboards/crown molding. I marked my cut-off, and hand cut a section out. After cutting, the crack on the cut out extended all the way down the cut-out piece, but the primary tube was fine. The red line denotes the original crack size.

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A little sanding, edge de-burring, and polishing, and the res is as good as new. Best part, it's exactly 2" shorter to 7" in total length now. ( and I mean down to the 32nd or less) I seriously doubt I could have done better with industrial machinery. For the record, during my childhood/teens, my father self-owned/worked his 1 man machine shop. 1 Lathe, 1 CNC Mill, and amazingly his favorite manual (non-CNC) Mill. Plus the assorted bandsaws, sanders, and hydraulic press. With his guiding hands, I cut my teeth on all these same tools. Sadly, he sold the business in my early 20's (Damn what I wouldn't give for that shop to still be around), so while I don't have access to the same tool feature set any more, I definitely respect and understand what their capacity provides. While I'm only left with a jigsaw and Dremel to do the dirty work, I definitely envy those that have a full shop at their disposal....

Anyways.. back to what I can complete.

More parts arrived after I had to reconsidered the res mount. 3 90 degree rotary fittings, a couple more 7/16"x5/8" compression fittings. An Alphacool Melvin res tube, a DD Delrin Fillport, and a Vandal resistant LED switch.

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I've had these parts in my possession for a couple of weeks now. While doing some space/fitting requirement measuring I discovered a problem that still exists with the top rad mounting. I don't have a picture, but 1 of the rad tube inputs is too close to the mobo's back panel insert mounting. A tube would have to be severely kink'ed to fit with the compression fitting. My solution? Raise the rads mounting off of the top by 1/4". To do this, I went back to how I mounted my BIP II on the old Armor case. A 1/4" acrylic riser plate between the top of the case, and the actual 3x120 RadGrillz. now in the case of the Armor, I purchased my own stock, and handmade a top piece. While that worked out in the end, it was a major P.I.T.A. In comes my friend (and yours), www.google.com. Search: Custom cut acrylic. Outcome: 2 new custom laser cut 1/4" fluorescent blue acrylic panels.

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Thanks goes out to the folks at www.delviesplastics.com. They did an awesome job considering my cut dimension requests/requirements. ( I can send you a copy of the specs I sent to them if you're doing something similar.) Exceptionally reasonable on the pricing, and well worth the expense. (less than what my own materials would have cost, and without my own manual labor. heh)

Here's the top plate being fitted, and measure for the fillport. I could have asked them to make this cut, but I wasn't 100% set on its placement at that time.

P1020561_resize.jpg


Also, here's the inside front bay faceplate. I only need 1 bay opened for a DVD drive. Everything else, sans the bottom 120mm fan, get's covered.

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The intention is to use a Lian-Li aluminum CD/DVD drive bezel in the gap.

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The problem is the cover is designed to work within the original bay mount measurements. The faceplate will site on top of this, and extend 1/4".

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To get around this, I'll be cutting notches on both sides of the original bay face, and then place a 1/4" space in-between the bezel and case frame. This showed allow the bezel to extend to flush with the acrylic faceplate, and all the work underneath will be covered/unseen.

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Hopefully more soon. With the Holidays around I should have more time to post updates.

cheers :D
 
Looking crazy good my friend.

Thanks! :D

I know I've been a little slow, but I'm making due with what time I have.

So I've got 1 piece of artwork completed. Still working on 1 or 2 more, but I'm making this the main motif.

Soultaker1a.jpg


SoulTaker aka... Angel Of Death
 
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