Everfalling
Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 676
*shock!*
*awe!*
*awe!*
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Project: parallel HEX (completed!)
- Thread starter Mysterae
- Start date
Thanks again guys for your comments!
Peterson, funny you should say that, when this was in my 'minds eye' I looked for fish tanks that would be appropriate for this. I didn't find any suitable though.
themark, yeah the Sketchup images are a bit dull compared to the real thing, but almost true to the original. As you and a few have said wiring and tubing this is going to be a bitch, and could make it end up looking very cluttered. I'm going to try and avoid that, but may add to the effect. That's the one thing that is missing from the Sketchups (near impossible to do cables and tubes accurately), so it will look different when all that's in.
As for the HEX staying visible by the end, it might. The hard drives and their water blocks will be mounted at the back, but not covering the entire panels so some will be visible. I wont see the back when it's on my desk which is a pity.
Geo Fry, Blauman and jivetrky, I'm taking heed of what you say about the I/O panel. It does't look all that great atm. I can't paint to save myself. I once painted a 19" monitor a copper colour years ago, taking it apart and all. It worked afterwards okay, but the paint job was crap! Since the I/O planel is quite intricate it will probably turn out much worse if I painted it! I might sand certain parts of it, make it all shiny but that's as far as I'll go probably.
Been doing some more. This pic is a bit blurry, it's of the underneath of the psu (actually the top if in a normal case) with some stick on rubber feet attached. This keeps the vibrations down, stops it from moving about a bit and protects the surface of the acrylic.
Here's a big teaser of what I'm working on the moment. I've fitted the psu but have yet to cut the hole for it's air vent and power lead+switch. I'm marking out the rad fans on the top, making sure the collector clears it and the edges of the case, and it does phew!
More soon!
Peterson, funny you should say that, when this was in my 'minds eye' I looked for fish tanks that would be appropriate for this. I didn't find any suitable though.
themark, yeah the Sketchup images are a bit dull compared to the real thing, but almost true to the original. As you and a few have said wiring and tubing this is going to be a bitch, and could make it end up looking very cluttered. I'm going to try and avoid that, but may add to the effect. That's the one thing that is missing from the Sketchups (near impossible to do cables and tubes accurately), so it will look different when all that's in.
As for the HEX staying visible by the end, it might. The hard drives and their water blocks will be mounted at the back, but not covering the entire panels so some will be visible. I wont see the back when it's on my desk which is a pity.
Geo Fry, Blauman and jivetrky, I'm taking heed of what you say about the I/O panel. It does't look all that great atm. I can't paint to save myself. I once painted a 19" monitor a copper colour years ago, taking it apart and all. It worked afterwards okay, but the paint job was crap! Since the I/O planel is quite intricate it will probably turn out much worse if I painted it! I might sand certain parts of it, make it all shiny but that's as far as I'll go probably.
Been doing some more. This pic is a bit blurry, it's of the underneath of the psu (actually the top if in a normal case) with some stick on rubber feet attached. This keeps the vibrations down, stops it from moving about a bit and protects the surface of the acrylic.
Here's a big teaser of what I'm working on the moment. I've fitted the psu but have yet to cut the hole for it's air vent and power lead+switch. I'm marking out the rad fans on the top, making sure the collector clears it and the edges of the case, and it does phew!
More soon!
Everfalling
Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 676
just keeps getting better and better.
Geo Fry, I don't think I will tint it, at least not right away. The place where I bought the acrylic from warned me about adding the tint. In as much as it's a bitch to do right, can sometimes react with the plastic and is a nightmare to get off should I change my mind. It would be easier and cheaper to have the panels made again in the mirror or tinted stuff, but not the HEX motherboard panel as it's 10mm thick.
I'm gathering pace! The collector, radiator & fans and psu are mounted:
It's going to get crowded inside very quick!
I still have plenty of holes to cut to let some air out from the fans and above the DD fillport on the collector.
Still to mount:
- distributor
- 2 hard drives and their coolers,
- 2 modified crossflow fans,
- 2 D5 pumps,
- 2 DVD writers,
- fan controller and switches
I'm gathering pace! The collector, radiator & fans and psu are mounted:
It's going to get crowded inside very quick!
I still have plenty of holes to cut to let some air out from the fans and above the DD fillport on the collector.
Still to mount:
- distributor
- 2 hard drives and their coolers,
- 2 modified crossflow fans,
- 2 D5 pumps,
- 2 DVD writers,
- fan controller and switches
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2004
- Messages
- 15,022
Almost forgot this one... It looks gorgeous and much better since the last time i saw. It is definitely one of the greatest mods of all time 
Mysterae said:
You have got to come up with a better name for that gorgeous multi-spigotted masterpiece than "the collector"
Aquamaster Six! Or something equally over-the-top to match it's looks.Don't tint! Too risky to attempt now! Besides, when all the stuff is finally laid out you'll be wanting to show it all off anyways.
MrWizard6600
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2006
- Messages
- 5,791
Mysterae said:MrWizard6600, the sanding disk is still the original one with plenty of life left in it! That's after all the construction blocks and some more, plus a chunk of my middle finger
All the blocks are made, just need to do some hand sanding and polishing. The case should be structurely safe by the weekend
yeah please do, spare me the pictures
I had an experiance like that. Grade 10 wood working. this is the last day we get to work on our projects, and I'm on the sanding stage. so Im standing at this new edge sander, which is working like a hot damn. Im taking off more then is recomended on this machine but I need to get this thing in today right.
well I stop, take of the goggles im wearing, turn off the machine and walk over to my bench. just as I sit down:
OOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWW. FFFFFFF*******************KKKKKK THAT HURTS.
three of my fingers at the edge were flat. taking off a fair bit of the nail, was bleeding pretty bad.
my only conclusion about why I didnt feal it is that the sand paper took off the nerves and I was concentrating like mad.
Sanding machines are probibly the worst for injuries.
ThatsAgood1jay
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2006
- Messages
- 1,029
you are a god.
funpak
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2006
- Messages
- 162
hawt.
subscribed!
subscribed!
Arcygenical
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2005
- Messages
- 25,066
I'm going to recommend that you *DONT* tint your windows using limo foil.
It just won't work well. It's all pretty at first, but it slowly starts to bubble, peel, and just generally fall off... Within a week.
You can go ahead and read a thread where, at deadpixel's request, I limotinted my case window, (just search for tint).
On the other hand, if you ARE going to tint it... There's really only one good way to do it.
Remove the backing off the tint, and place both the sheet of tint AND the acrylic under a good foot of water. Position the tint on the window, then bring them both out of the water at the same time. For some reason, this was the easiest way to do it... as limo tint is similar to saran wrap. It sticks to EVERYTHING except what you want it to stick to!
It just won't work well. It's all pretty at first, but it slowly starts to bubble, peel, and just generally fall off... Within a week.
You can go ahead and read a thread where, at deadpixel's request, I limotinted my case window, (just search for tint).
On the other hand, if you ARE going to tint it... There's really only one good way to do it.
Remove the backing off the tint, and place both the sheet of tint AND the acrylic under a good foot of water. Position the tint on the window, then bring them both out of the water at the same time. For some reason, this was the easiest way to do it... as limo tint is similar to saran wrap. It sticks to EVERYTHING except what you want it to stick to!
I've got a busy weekend ahead, but I'm going to try and get some more done.
themark, I had a discussion earlier about the collector, I couldn't come up with a better name for it! Since it's a manifold of sorts and a reservoir in one, I thought about manivoir or resifold, both suck! So Collector it was, as it er, collects the water back...
Arcygenical, I saw your thread about tinting and was hoping you would have success. I didn't comment in case I put you off as I didn't have any personal experience of it, only what the plastics guy told me. It's a bummer that it's so difficult and doesn't last.
MrWizard6600, yes sanding machines are pretty dangerous. The reason why injuries can be worse is other workshop machines cut things off that can (sometimes) be stitched back on. When you sand something off, there's nothing left to put back on!
themark, I had a discussion earlier about the collector, I couldn't come up with a better name for it! Since it's a manifold of sorts and a reservoir in one, I thought about manivoir or resifold, both suck! So Collector it was, as it er, collects the water back...
Arcygenical, I saw your thread about tinting and was hoping you would have success. I didn't comment in case I put you off as I didn't have any personal experience of it, only what the plastics guy told me. It's a bummer that it's so difficult and doesn't last.
MrWizard6600, yes sanding machines are pretty dangerous. The reason why injuries can be worse is other workshop machines cut things off that can (sometimes) be stitched back on. When you sand something off, there's nothing left to put back on!
IntimidatorX
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2004
- Messages
- 119
About tinting, i will give you my views about the subject.
I've tinted car windows and computer case windows, and they do last, depends on what you use, the quality of the tint film, on a car in the sun they say 4-5 years, i would say its about right, on case inside the house, well cant even tell you, i've tinted cases for friends and clients including clear cristal cases, logos, etc and some have more than 5 years now with no wear on the film.
Now to put it on, you only need a can of spray, mix it with e parts of water and 1 part of window cleaning fluid, you can test run it 1st to see if it doesnt damage the surface, but it shouldnt, then just peel the film, it will have the film it self and a clear film, spray both the "glued" surface of the film and the object where you are sticking it to, spray alot, it will be used so that if donesnt glue instantly, if you do it right you will be able to take it off or slide in case you need it. Do some test runs before you try, this is coming from someone that has some years experience, you probably dont.
Once you have the film in place dont worry about the bubbles, that waht the mix is for, you can use a squeegy or just some cotton cloth to wipe away the mix of water between the film and the plexy.
As for the film go for a UV car resistant one, normally i use 80%, but they come in all kind of colors ans shapes.
As for removing, there is a easy way, just need to use a vapor gun, peel a bit and use the vapor to take the rest off.
If you need to put the film on a non plain surface you just need before peeling it to put it over the surface and use a heat gun to mold the film, becarefull not to burn it.
Sorry if you didnt understand, English is not my mother language, but i can try and explain it better if i have to.
I've tinted car windows and computer case windows, and they do last, depends on what you use, the quality of the tint film, on a car in the sun they say 4-5 years, i would say its about right, on case inside the house, well cant even tell you, i've tinted cases for friends and clients including clear cristal cases, logos, etc and some have more than 5 years now with no wear on the film.
Now to put it on, you only need a can of spray, mix it with e parts of water and 1 part of window cleaning fluid, you can test run it 1st to see if it doesnt damage the surface, but it shouldnt, then just peel the film, it will have the film it self and a clear film, spray both the "glued" surface of the film and the object where you are sticking it to, spray alot, it will be used so that if donesnt glue instantly, if you do it right you will be able to take it off or slide in case you need it. Do some test runs before you try, this is coming from someone that has some years experience, you probably dont.
Once you have the film in place dont worry about the bubbles, that waht the mix is for, you can use a squeegy or just some cotton cloth to wipe away the mix of water between the film and the plexy.
As for the film go for a UV car resistant one, normally i use 80%, but they come in all kind of colors ans shapes.
As for removing, there is a easy way, just need to use a vapor gun, peel a bit and use the vapor to take the rest off.
If you need to put the film on a non plain surface you just need before peeling it to put it over the surface and use a heat gun to mold the film, becarefull not to burn it.
Sorry if you didnt understand, English is not my mother language, but i can try and explain it better if i have to.
i_am_mustang_man
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2006
- Messages
- 510
i subscribed to this long before i ever started posting here for real, prolly even in 2005, but i just wanted to say this last set of pics is [H]ott
i_am_mustang_man, thanks for sticking by, the images should get [H]otter soon!
malicious, 18th December 2006 is my new target date, the 1 year anniversary of starting this worklog. I reckon it's possible as I have all the parts, just need the time to put it together. If it were to make the front page when complete, that would be a fine accolade.
In pursuit of that deadline, I've done some more. I have mounted the hard drives at the back of the case, kinda blocking the HEX mobo mount. It's no big deal as it's the back of the case and I would hardly ever see it.
I know hard drive water blocks are a contentious subject for many, but back there these hot running hard drives (WD400KD & WD74 Raptor) won't get much air flow. In fact, the air will be drawn away by the fans of the rad at the top and the fan of the psu at the bottom. I reckon water cooling them will help a lot in keeping their temps in check and prolong their life.
They are mounted on 4 rubber anti-vibration mounts each to stop them shaking the case apart.
Positioned here should also keep the noise from them away from the front of the case.
In the first pic above you can see the vent hole for the psu has been cut and polished. I've also done the holes in the top for the rad fans and fillport, I'll post that soon.
malicious, 18th December 2006 is my new target date, the 1 year anniversary of starting this worklog. I reckon it's possible as I have all the parts, just need the time to put it together. If it were to make the front page when complete, that would be a fine accolade.
In pursuit of that deadline, I've done some more. I have mounted the hard drives at the back of the case, kinda blocking the HEX mobo mount. It's no big deal as it's the back of the case and I would hardly ever see it.
I know hard drive water blocks are a contentious subject for many, but back there these hot running hard drives (WD400KD & WD74 Raptor) won't get much air flow. In fact, the air will be drawn away by the fans of the rad at the top and the fan of the psu at the bottom. I reckon water cooling them will help a lot in keeping their temps in check and prolong their life.
They are mounted on 4 rubber anti-vibration mounts each to stop them shaking the case apart.
Positioned here should also keep the noise from them away from the front of the case.
In the first pic above you can see the vent hole for the psu has been cut and polished. I've also done the holes in the top for the rad fans and fillport, I'll post that soon.
Damn you're right, the 'HEX' piece is thick as hell. Those HD coolers look real cool through that glass. I see you also cut the PSU vent hole. I'm guessing this will be a decently quiet system... Although I have no clue how loud those crossflow fans are...
Yeah, that HEX is 10mm thick! I found with the wooden mockup from ages ago that anything thinner would bend or warp with the weight of the motherboard, Plus it gives a strong backbone to the case, especially the top with the radiator.
The HD's look like their floating through the panels .
The crossflow fans can be pretty noisey at the full 12v, but at 7v they are quite quiet, perhaps a bit louder than the 120mm CM fans on the radiator (that run at 12v).
The HD's look like their floating through the panels
.The crossflow fans can be pretty noisey at the full 12v, but at 7v they are quite quiet, perhaps a bit louder than the 120mm CM fans on the radiator (that run at 12v).
If this all comes out half as good as I'm expecting it to, you're going to be the poster child for pre-planning having used SketchUp and the wooden mock-up to check your component setup before cutting. I am salivating over the eventual connection and testing of "The Collector"
With all haste please
With all haste please
are you using heat conduction pads on the HDD blocks? I've found the Aqua-Computer block to be around the price point of one of those "smother your HDD with dampening foam" things, but the only heat conduction pad I've managed to find here are $30 Asetek pads. $30! 60% of the waterblock's price!
You can make your own:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article682-page3.html but use a better bag or double bag (see the last page of that).
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article682-page3.html but use a better bag or double bag (see the last page of that).
The AC HD cooler isn't the best, but you find out these things after you buy them! If you take a look at my embarressingly old thread here about the AC stuff, you will see that I am using the thermal material from the CM Aquaturtles that I decided not to use as the plastic was cracked in numerous places.
If I were to do it again I would use the Koolance HD coolers. Much lighter and better overall contact.
That's a good link DryFire, I might try that next time!
If I were to do it again I would use the Koolance HD coolers. Much lighter and better overall contact.
That's a good link DryFire, I might try that next time!
Ah don't sweat it n00btard, it was months ago I posted that!
A little update, I have mounted the duo D5 pumps:
I've used anti-viibration mounts on the pumps like those fitted to the hard drives. I had to drill two extra holes on the D5's bracket, for some reason only 2 holes where present.
Both pumps speed will be controlled simultaneously with an external dual gang 10K potentiometer like that shown below. This should mean both pumps will have equal flow from the one control. The internal pot of each pump has to be removed first, more details of that in this thread here.
A view from the top:
The gap between the pumps is where the dvd drives will go. I'm working on the mounting arrangement for them at the moment.
A little update, I have mounted the duo D5 pumps:
I've used anti-viibration mounts on the pumps like those fitted to the hard drives. I had to drill two extra holes on the D5's bracket, for some reason only 2 holes where present.
Both pumps speed will be controlled simultaneously with an external dual gang 10K potentiometer like that shown below. This should mean both pumps will have equal flow from the one control. The internal pot of each pump has to be removed first, more details of that in this thread here.
A view from the top:
The gap between the pumps is where the dvd drives will go. I'm working on the mounting arrangement for them at the moment.
Hito Bahadur
[H]ard|DCer of the Month - December 2006
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2004
- Messages
- 3,169
It's too bad the bolts aren't long enough on those pump mounts to add a bushing between the washer and the base plate. You are going to get a lot of vibration transfer from the pump to the glass through the bolt. For best isolation you should isolate the whole bolt from the item that is vibrating.
edit: You might be better off straddling the base plate between the two bushings you have there. It would put the pump closer to the glass (save height) and I bet you it would be much more quiet.
edit: You might be better off straddling the base plate between the two bushings you have there. It would put the pump closer to the glass (save height) and I bet you it would be much more quiet.
Hito Bahadur, I think you're confused by the look of those pump mounts. The bolt doesn't go right through (there is no bolt), the rubber between the two screws is solid. The screws at each end are moulded into the rubber and flexes quite nicely. The hard drive mount blocks are the same except they have tapped inserts rather than screws.
Hito Bahadur
[H]ard|DCer of the Month - December 2006
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2004
- Messages
- 3,169
Ah never mind then. I am used to heavier pumps (submarines). If that was a thru bolt, you wouldn't have had much actual isolation.