Silent Assasin
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2004
- Messages
- 1,120
Wow, I didn't even notice you started this project already. After reading all about your water cooling setup a couple weeks ago, I just have to see how this turns out...
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Project: parallel HEX (completed!)
- Thread starter Mysterae
- Start date
^^^ Me too SA!
I hope everyone had a merry Christmas!
Ill answer some of the pending questions and then get to an update.
TehRoflcopter & IAmSpoli:
I had thought about a removable mobo tray, especially a Lian Li one but I missed out on one on fleaBay. I didnt want one just to be removable, it was just the fact that all the slots are lined up already making the back plate issue easy. I cant find a shop that sells one either (UK).
Tyklfe:
Im not sure if the design of six 6mm (I/D) feeds from a 9mm (I/D) supply will affect flows in those six branches. I do have 2 pumps in the circuit, 1 before and 1 after the radiator so hopefully this should be enough.
Using the resistors in series and parallel analogy, the resistance of the total circuit will be less when the blocks are in parallel than when in series.
Now, the flow rate would be the same at the manifold (Rm1) as that at the start of a series circuit. Since the total resistance is lower for the parallel circuit, flow rates shouldnt be hampered. Also each block is getting water at a higher delta straight from the rad>pump and not already heated from a previous block (bar one pump meh). So in theory each block can absorb more heat, imo.
There are some issues with the above Im open to admit! I put numbers in the above equations to keep it simple, and of course they could be a lot higher, especially the manifold with its six splits. After you add in all the extra connections (resistance again) to make a parallel circuit it may equal that of a series loop afterall!
Ill just have to wait and see!
The program is SketchUp, awesome program once you get used to it! There are plenty of already made models available to save you time.
I hope everyone had a merry Christmas!
Ill answer some of the pending questions and then get to an update.
TehRoflcopter & IAmSpoli:
I had thought about a removable mobo tray, especially a Lian Li one but I missed out on one on fleaBay. I didnt want one just to be removable, it was just the fact that all the slots are lined up already making the back plate issue easy. I cant find a shop that sells one either (UK).
Tyklfe:
Im not sure if the design of six 6mm (I/D) feeds from a 9mm (I/D) supply will affect flows in those six branches. I do have 2 pumps in the circuit, 1 before and 1 after the radiator so hopefully this should be enough.
Using the resistors in series and parallel analogy, the resistance of the total circuit will be less when the blocks are in parallel than when in series.
Now, the flow rate would be the same at the manifold (Rm1) as that at the start of a series circuit. Since the total resistance is lower for the parallel circuit, flow rates shouldnt be hampered. Also each block is getting water at a higher delta straight from the rad>pump and not already heated from a previous block (bar one pump meh). So in theory each block can absorb more heat, imo.
There are some issues with the above Im open to admit! I put numbers in the above equations to keep it simple, and of course they could be a lot higher, especially the manifold with its six splits. After you add in all the extra connections (resistance again) to make a parallel circuit it may equal that of a series loop afterall!
Ill just have to wait and see!
The program is SketchUp, awesome program once you get used to it! There are plenty of already made models available to save you time.
The case is built and Im so glad I made it out of plywood first, as my cutting accuracy isnt all that good!
Heres the mobo mount HEX
Heres where the psu is going. Note that I have already removed the fan guard of the psu.
The rear of the case and the vent for the psu:
Im not entirely happy with the hole above, but its got to be like that because of the rail switch, power switch, power connector and the vents.
The first component is in! The psu takes its position.
Below you can see how much clearance there is going to be between the motherboard and the psu. The psu drawing in air to cool itself may draw warm air from the cpu and ram, but this will be negated when the cpus waterblock goes on and the other crossflow fans are mounted. I hope!
Now here is my first mistake! The motherboard is too close to the side panel
as you can see better from the images below:
You will also notice that I cut a hole for the cards. Well, I just could get away from playing some games and had to power this up! So I took a jigsaw to the side panel and remounted the motherboard further back to provide a gap. No pictures of this yet, but will be on the next update, plus hard drive mounting and rad and fans.
Heres the mobo mount HEX
Heres where the psu is going. Note that I have already removed the fan guard of the psu.
The rear of the case and the vent for the psu:
Im not entirely happy with the hole above, but its got to be like that because of the rail switch, power switch, power connector and the vents.
The first component is in! The psu takes its position.
Below you can see how much clearance there is going to be between the motherboard and the psu. The psu drawing in air to cool itself may draw warm air from the cpu and ram, but this will be negated when the cpus waterblock goes on and the other crossflow fans are mounted. I hope!
Now here is my first mistake! The motherboard is too close to the side panel
as you can see better from the images below:
You will also notice that I cut a hole for the cards. Well, I just could get away from playing some games and had to power this up! So I took a jigsaw to the side panel and remounted the motherboard further back to provide a gap. No pictures of this yet, but will be on the next update, plus hard drive mounting and rad and fans.
DarkenReaper57
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2003
- Messages
- 2,173
I really like how this is going. I do have a suggestion though regarding flowrates. What if you put adjustable flow valves at each entry/exit of the manifolds? This way, you can adjust how much flow you get to each component manually.
It takes a lot of math and knowledge of fluid mechanics to know how much flow each component will get. Unless you know the resistance of each component and the resistance of going through and arc and such I would definetly put in some valves. Real world flowrates can differ a bit from what you mathmatically calculate since there are almost always simlifications on paper.
I really admire the design though. I bet this will turn out very nicely, especially with the tinted plexi. Oh, do you plan on using any sort of frame? A shined up aluminum frame around tinted plexi would probably look sweet. It will also reduce a LOT of stress on the plexi.
Just a few suggestions
.
It takes a lot of math and knowledge of fluid mechanics to know how much flow each component will get. Unless you know the resistance of each component and the resistance of going through and arc and such I would definetly put in some valves. Real world flowrates can differ a bit from what you mathmatically calculate since there are almost always simlifications on paper.
I really admire the design though. I bet this will turn out very nicely, especially with the tinted plexi. Oh, do you plan on using any sort of frame? A shined up aluminum frame around tinted plexi would probably look sweet. It will also reduce a LOT of stress on the plexi.
Just a few suggestions
.TehRoflcopter
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Messages
- 557
I do believe that he stated in the original thread about parallel cooling that he was going to adjust the valves by guess and check.
I agree with the shined up aluminum frame around the plexiglass, not only would that be beneficial for strength, but it will also look incredibly sexy with tinted plexiglass =D.
I like where the project is going so far. I also admire the fact that you're going to stick with the original design and go for minimal modification (or from what I can see so far =D). Keep up the good work!
I agree with the shined up aluminum frame around the plexiglass, not only would that be beneficial for strength, but it will also look incredibly sexy with tinted plexiglass =D.
I like where the project is going so far. I also admire the fact that you're going to stick with the original design and go for minimal modification (or from what I can see so far =D). Keep up the good work!
Are you going to make the letters stand out a bit better in your cut-out?
Cause I keep seeing HEXC instead of HEX... Perhaps just a different color added to the letters, or a 2nd layer of plexy for just the letters.
Not a big deal, but just a suggestion.
Great work BTW.
==>Lazn
Cause I keep seeing HEXC instead of HEX... Perhaps just a different color added to the letters, or a 2nd layer of plexy for just the letters.
Not a big deal, but just a suggestion.
Great work BTW.
==>Lazn
FirePhoenixctk
n00b
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2005
- Messages
- 63
the concept looks very cool. Cant wait to see how this ones turns out
toymachineman19
Guest
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- Dec 26, 2004
- Messages
- 725
wow, this looks amazing, I like it a lot. Good luck on it.
/subscribed
/subscribed
GoFastNova
n00b
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2005
- Messages
- 62
maybe you could cut a hex overlay out of black? or a differant color, or im sure there a ton of [H] lighting tricks that would work
Silent Assasin
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2004
- Messages
- 1,120
aburgard said:
This has all been discussed in the water cooling thread over a month ago.... He's really got a great plan for this and I really hope he's sucsesful, sp?...
Also to mystarae, I'd suggest posting a link to that other thread for other's to see all your work that has already gone into this design..... If I remember right, there was actually two different threads.... One of the planning and one of the actual manifolds as they arrived?
PekkerCadette
n00b
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2003
- Messages
- 34
Sweet!!
/subscribed!
PekkerCadette out
/subscribed!
PekkerCadette out
Hi guys, lots of interest! I suppose a mention on the front of [H]ard|OCP does that for a guy! Many thanks!
Lets get on with some replies..
DarkenReaper57 & TehRolfcopter:
Yes, Im adding mini ball valves to the collector rather than the manifold. These are there to restrict the flows in certain circuits so other more important blocks get the flow. This will be a 'suck it and see' approach. Plus it also helps when bleeding the air out of loops just close a circuit when its air free and move on to the next. The valves are on the collector rather than the manifold because I think it will be easier and look a lot better.
As for an aluminium frame around it I didnt think of this. I was going for a smooth outer shell with minimum metal exposed on the outside. I do hope 9mm plexi will be strong enough. The last plexi case I had didnt need any frame and that was a less thicker material, but granted, it wasn't water cooled or have half the weight of this one. If the construction of the case dictates I need a frame with all the weight then Ill address that then, or if there are gaps between the panels - but hopefully the edges should be perfect on the plexi version.
Lazn_Work & GoFastNova:
I see what you mean! The extra bits on the HEX motherboard mount are for the hard drives to mount on. I can see it distracts from the HEX and Ill see how it looks and consider adding another layer to it, could look quite cool!
Jason711:
Presuming you're not kidding, I think the shipping of the plywood mockup would cost too much (Im in the UK)! When Im finished and all measurements and problems are fixed, I might put up detailed instructions and drawings for others download and have a go at it themselves. Start a HEX Revolution!
Silent Assasin:
Thats a good Idea SA! I was going to do it in the intro, but I forgot to add it in doh!
Here are some links to threads when I was mulling about my parallel water cooling ideas:
Water Flow
My parallel set up - how many pumps and where to place 'em?
Finalised the layout of my parallel water cooling
To everyone else thanks for the support and comments. It makes it easier knowing there are people interested in what you do and give ideas to help. Also means Im not the only mad one!
I dont have an update today, FEAR does that to a guy . But work will continue in the next few days!
Lets get on with some replies..
DarkenReaper57 & TehRolfcopter:
Yes, Im adding mini ball valves to the collector rather than the manifold. These are there to restrict the flows in certain circuits so other more important blocks get the flow. This will be a 'suck it and see' approach. Plus it also helps when bleeding the air out of loops just close a circuit when its air free and move on to the next. The valves are on the collector rather than the manifold because I think it will be easier and look a lot better.
As for an aluminium frame around it I didnt think of this. I was going for a smooth outer shell with minimum metal exposed on the outside. I do hope 9mm plexi will be strong enough. The last plexi case I had didnt need any frame and that was a less thicker material, but granted, it wasn't water cooled or have half the weight of this one. If the construction of the case dictates I need a frame with all the weight then Ill address that then, or if there are gaps between the panels - but hopefully the edges should be perfect on the plexi version.
Lazn_Work & GoFastNova:
I see what you mean! The extra bits on the HEX motherboard mount are for the hard drives to mount on. I can see it distracts from the HEX and Ill see how it looks and consider adding another layer to it, could look quite cool!
Jason711:
Presuming you're not kidding, I think the shipping of the plywood mockup would cost too much (Im in the UK)! When Im finished and all measurements and problems are fixed, I might put up detailed instructions and drawings for others download and have a go at it themselves. Start a HEX Revolution!
Silent Assasin:
Thats a good Idea SA! I was going to do it in the intro, but I forgot to add it in doh!
Here are some links to threads when I was mulling about my parallel water cooling ideas:
Water Flow
My parallel set up - how many pumps and where to place 'em?
Finalised the layout of my parallel water cooling
To everyone else thanks for the support and comments. It makes it easier knowing there are people interested in what you do and give ideas to help. Also means Im not the only mad one!
I dont have an update today, FEAR does that to a guy . But work will continue in the next few days!
Everfalling
Gawd
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2005
- Messages
- 676
this is going to be awsome. the watercooling set up is enough to make me watch this
I can at last put some water cooling hardware in the mockup, albeit without any water! First off its the controversial hard drive coolers. Will they actually help? I dunno yet but they can't hurt and will sure look cool with blue UV coolant flowing through them.
It's difficult by looking at the following pics but they actually make little contact with the hard disk, but Ive bought them now so theyre going in!
The only contact that is actually made on the turtles and the WD Raptor 74Gb and SE400KD are the outer screw mounts and the raised section of the spindle motor. Considering the motor is probably the hottest bit (not sure about that) and the heat emanates from there to the rest of the metal of the case, its a good place to have contact. I was a little bit wary of having the thermal pads make contact with the PCB of the hds, but thats the way CM say it should be done.
I was also concerned that both hds have air holes to let the drives breathe as can be seen below, but there is enough of a gap because the aforesaid raised motor parts.
Below you can see the turtles attached to the hds and the mounts that are supplied. You get two mounts per turtle, but Im only using one for reasons you will see later.
Moving on to a different part of the water cooling, the rad and fans shown below.
The radiator is a ThermoChill PA120.2 and the fans are Cooler Master 120mm aluminium type.
Its a subject of much discussion in the water cooling forum as to if the above arrangement will be enough to cool my system adequately, I dont know yet. Im prepared to double up by fitting another of the above if needs be, but the case will have to change radically to accommodate it.
I got a bit carried away when making the holes in the lid for the fans that I didnt take any pictures, but hey youve seen holes cut before!
Youve seen the model so you know where its going!
Im thinking of painting the radiator, not sure what colour though. Im going to make sure there are no leaks before I consider it.
Time to mount those hard drives out of the way. Heres the SE400KD in position. The turtle is there, you obviously cant see it but in the plexi version you will.
Checking for clearance with the radiator. I need to move the rad over to the right just a smidge in the plexi version.
Got the other hd mounted and have run into what looks like a problem. The SATA power lead gets in the way of the tube connection for the turtle. I could use the molex power connection of the hd instead if I cant find a way around it. Ive adjusted the brightness of the image so you can see it better.
Both hard drives mounted:
There are a few things youll notice in the above picture. First, my 1337 method of keeping the vid card in place! I still havent sourced a blackplate for it yet, and I need to make another HEX motherboard mounting plate so I can move the motherboard left a bit.
Also youll notice the growth of cables. Cable management is going to be fun in this case, and I havent even got one water cooling tube in yet. I wish theyd hurry up and make SATA DVD writers worthwhile because I really hate IDE cables, especially the crap ones DFI supply with the RDX200. I have some nice ones on order, but they havent arrived yet.
Heres the parting shot of this update.
It's difficult by looking at the following pics but they actually make little contact with the hard disk, but Ive bought them now so theyre going in!
The only contact that is actually made on the turtles and the WD Raptor 74Gb and SE400KD are the outer screw mounts and the raised section of the spindle motor. Considering the motor is probably the hottest bit (not sure about that) and the heat emanates from there to the rest of the metal of the case, its a good place to have contact. I was a little bit wary of having the thermal pads make contact with the PCB of the hds, but thats the way CM say it should be done.
I was also concerned that both hds have air holes to let the drives breathe as can be seen below, but there is enough of a gap because the aforesaid raised motor parts.
Below you can see the turtles attached to the hds and the mounts that are supplied. You get two mounts per turtle, but Im only using one for reasons you will see later.
Moving on to a different part of the water cooling, the rad and fans shown below.
The radiator is a ThermoChill PA120.2 and the fans are Cooler Master 120mm aluminium type.
Its a subject of much discussion in the water cooling forum as to if the above arrangement will be enough to cool my system adequately, I dont know yet. Im prepared to double up by fitting another of the above if needs be, but the case will have to change radically to accommodate it.
I got a bit carried away when making the holes in the lid for the fans that I didnt take any pictures, but hey youve seen holes cut before!
Youve seen the model so you know where its going!
Im thinking of painting the radiator, not sure what colour though. Im going to make sure there are no leaks before I consider it.
Time to mount those hard drives out of the way. Heres the SE400KD in position. The turtle is there, you obviously cant see it but in the plexi version you will.
Checking for clearance with the radiator. I need to move the rad over to the right just a smidge in the plexi version.
Got the other hd mounted and have run into what looks like a problem. The SATA power lead gets in the way of the tube connection for the turtle. I could use the molex power connection of the hd instead if I cant find a way around it. Ive adjusted the brightness of the image so you can see it better.
Both hard drives mounted:
There are a few things youll notice in the above picture. First, my 1337 method of keeping the vid card in place! I still havent sourced a blackplate for it yet, and I need to make another HEX motherboard mounting plate so I can move the motherboard left a bit.
Also youll notice the growth of cables. Cable management is going to be fun in this case, and I havent even got one water cooling tube in yet. I wish theyd hurry up and make SATA DVD writers worthwhile because I really hate IDE cables, especially the crap ones DFI supply with the RDX200. I have some nice ones on order, but they havent arrived yet.
Heres the parting shot of this update.
Armonkyi said:
I really wish folk would read the text instead of just looking at the pretty pictures
. Ya n00b!I mentioned already (in the text) that I was a bit iffy about putting the coolers on that side, but that is how they are meant to be mounted. Check the Cooler Master website if you don't believe me.
But thanks for your concern!
NickS
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2005
- Messages
- 1,953
Lookin awesome, keep up the good job .
nice internals, too.
.nice internals, too.
TehRoflcopter
Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Messages
- 557
This case = teh win
I like what I see. Still, lol.
Keep up the good work and progress =O
I like what I see. Still, lol.
Keep up the good work and progress =O
Carnecerro
Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Messages
- 620
/subscribed!
Yeah sorry for the lack of updates lately. I've not given up, I kinda hit a few walls...
- I had ordered a Cooler Master AquaTrident cpu block from a company way back in Nov 05 and they haven't had any in since, and they haven't been prompt to reply to my emails .
- looking at a replacement cpu block, I would rather get a 3 port model than change my loop design. Finding a 3 port cpu block that fits my design has been a problem, and I was thinking of modding a popular AC cpu block. I may still try it...
- still haven't been able to get a rear I/O plate, it's a necessity for holding the vid cards in place. I may have to resort to buying a case and ripping one out!
- I was waiting to see how the X1900's would perform. I hadn't bought the X1800 crossfire card and thought I might shift to the X1900 . But there is the water block mounting issue...
- When looking at that X1900's, it looks like the Aquagratix wouldn't fit the X1900's because of an extra component on the X1900.
To give some overdue answers ...
I'm in the UK so I would get the Aquagratix from Aqua Computer themselves.
I'm having the plexi cut by the supplier or a machine shop, depending on the final shape. I'll apply the mirrored film myself, but I'll take plenty of pics before that when it's just clear plexi.
- I had ordered a Cooler Master AquaTrident cpu block from a company way back in Nov 05 and they haven't had any in since, and they haven't been prompt to reply to my emails
.- looking at a replacement cpu block, I would rather get a 3 port model than change my loop design. Finding a 3 port cpu block that fits my design has been a problem, and I was thinking of modding a popular AC cpu block. I may still try it...
- still haven't been able to get a rear I/O plate, it's a necessity for holding the vid cards in place. I may have to resort to buying a case and ripping one out!
- I was waiting to see how the X1900's would perform. I hadn't bought the X1800 crossfire card and thought I might shift to the X1900
. But there is the water block mounting issue...- When looking at that X1900's, it looks like the Aquagratix wouldn't fit the X1900's because of an extra component on the X1900.
To give some overdue answers ...
I'm in the UK so I would get the Aquagratix from Aqua Computer themselves.
I'm having the plexi cut by the supplier or a machine shop, depending on the final shape. I'll apply the mirrored film myself, but I'll take plenty of pics before that when it's just clear plexi.
(I've only read through your original posts so far)
But, wouldn't the sunbeam controllers and system buttons be better above the optical drives? I imagine you'd want easy access to them, but I also imagine you don't want the IO board sticking out the front. : / -shrugs-
-subscribed and goes off to read the rest of the thread-
But, wouldn't the sunbeam controllers and system buttons be better above the optical drives? I imagine you'd want easy access to them, but I also imagine you don't want the IO board sticking out the front. : / -shrugs-
-subscribed and goes off to read the rest of the thread-
malicious - I won't let the fame get to my head, but all reward and recognition is a good thing!
Majin - Thanks for the heads up on the RBX. That's going to be my plan b if I decide not to mod a AC cuplex. I've yet to find out the thread size of the barbs on the RBX where it goes into the block . I also wonder if it's good to go for the extra jet adaptors?
Nuzzles - I've scrapped the sunbeams fan controller for the moment and got a non-descript fan controller. The sunbeams LEDs were just to bight, and I prefered the design of the new ones. I'll post a pic of them soon.
themark - Nice picture! Cheers for taking the time to show me what you mean. I like it too . Once Lazn_Work had said that, that's all I saw too! Since fitting the hard drives I know I don't need as many screws. So some of the material can be removed. After repositioning the motherboard, I need to make another HEX mounting plate for the new positioned mounts. The result is going to be a lot like what you have drawn I reckon
Thanks to everyone reading and posting!
Right here...
Here's the new donor:
Not bad for £10 off ebay, the postage was dearer!
The part I need:
I spend a good while pondering the use of a removable motherboard tray. Would I ever need to remove my motherboard? Thing is, I would need to disconnect everything (power leads, device connections, water blocks) to pull it out anyway, and theres no maintenance I cant do while its in the case. Theres the extra design and bits and the added weight.
I decided I didnt need it to be removable all that badly and cut it off:
Heres the slight change of plan and the distraction that meant little update to the build
X1900XTX and X1900 Crossfire:
Because I never had the back I/O plate I couldnt measure it, and so the plans were a bit open ended around this area. Hence the mock-up. The HEX mount is going to have to change a bit and Ive also gone back to using the smaller motherboard mounts.
A little bit of working out to be done.
The I/O plate cant go on the outside of the case because of the thickness of the case panel, unless its recessed in a 4mm. Probably mount it on the inside as shown in the image above (a lot easier), but need to trim the plate first.
A few areas of concern:
Heat, heat, heat, heat, heat, heat!
The North Bridge Of Doom
Theres a fight for air going on there. The fan of the crossfire gpu pulling air over the power regs heatsink to cool its core and memory, while the north bridge is trying to suck air down to its self.
Thats damn close too. Theres not a lot of clearance between the nb and gpu
The gpu gets damn hot at full load. The temperature log file from ATI Tool recorded 92C peak at one point for one of the cards.
I ran into a problem when running 3D applications (HL2, X3) in crossfire mode at 1920x1200 and everything maxed out. I would get thin streaks across the screen, more like interference than artefacts. The only way to solve it was to up the voltage on the nb from 1.2V to 1.4V. This of course generates more heat after exiting out of a game, ITE Smartguardian indicated a temp of 65C! A good reason for water cooling it, but a bigger fan directed to it may be just as good.
The south bridge is pretty close to the other gpu.
Im wondering what the clearance will be with the aquagratix water block fitted, since it replaces the power regs heatsink . Should be fine .
Got quite a bit still to do, but Id rather be using the rig than modding it argh!
Majin - Thanks for the heads up on the RBX. That's going to be my plan b if I decide not to mod a AC cuplex. I've yet to find out the thread size of the barbs on the RBX where it goes into the block . I also wonder if it's good to go for the extra jet adaptors?
Nuzzles - I've scrapped the sunbeams fan controller for the moment and got a non-descript fan controller. The sunbeams LEDs were just to bight, and I prefered the design of the new ones. I'll post a pic of them soon.
themark - Nice picture! Cheers for taking the time to show me what you mean. I like it too
. Once Lazn_Work had said that, that's all I saw too! Since fitting the hard drives I know I don't need as many screws. So some of the material can be removed. After repositioning the motherboard, I need to make another HEX mounting plate for the new positioned mounts. The result is going to be a lot like what you have drawn I reckon Thanks to everyone reading and posting!
Majin said:
Right here...
Here's the new donor:
Not bad for £10 off ebay, the postage was dearer!
The part I need:
I spend a good while pondering the use of a removable motherboard tray. Would I ever need to remove my motherboard? Thing is, I would need to disconnect everything (power leads, device connections, water blocks) to pull it out anyway, and theres no maintenance I cant do while its in the case. Theres the extra design and bits and the added weight.
I decided I didnt need it to be removable all that badly and cut it off:
Heres the slight change of plan and the distraction that meant little update to the build
X1900XTX and X1900 Crossfire:
Because I never had the back I/O plate I couldnt measure it, and so the plans were a bit open ended around this area. Hence the mock-up. The HEX mount is going to have to change a bit and Ive also gone back to using the smaller motherboard mounts.
A little bit of working out to be done.
The I/O plate cant go on the outside of the case because of the thickness of the case panel, unless its recessed in a 4mm. Probably mount it on the inside as shown in the image above (a lot easier), but need to trim the plate first.
A few areas of concern:
Heat, heat, heat, heat, heat, heat!
The North Bridge Of Doom
Theres a fight for air going on there. The fan of the crossfire gpu pulling air over the power regs heatsink to cool its core and memory, while the north bridge is trying to suck air down to its self.
Thats damn close too. Theres not a lot of clearance between the nb and gpu
The gpu gets damn hot at full load. The temperature log file from ATI Tool recorded 92C peak at one point for one of the cards.
I ran into a problem when running 3D applications (HL2, X3) in crossfire mode at 1920x1200 and everything maxed out. I would get thin streaks across the screen, more like interference than artefacts. The only way to solve it was to up the voltage on the nb from 1.2V to 1.4V. This of course generates more heat after exiting out of a game, ITE Smartguardian indicated a temp of 65C! A good reason for water cooling it, but a bigger fan directed to it may be just as good.
The south bridge is pretty close to the other gpu.
Im wondering what the clearance will be with the aquagratix water block fitted, since it replaces the power regs heatsink . Should be fine
.Got quite a bit still to do, but Id rather be using the rig than modding it argh!
JOKER_JOKER
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2005
- Messages
- 471
This mod is going to be awesome. I can't wait to see how it turns out.