Thought I'd share this PM and my response for the folks who are thinking of doing this mod.
The 12" x 8.5" was the size of my Gigabyte 965P-ds3. I'd recommend getting a plexiglas board the size of your motherboard, so that it is fully supported from the back. The case will easily fit full ATX MBs with lengths of 12" width (I/O side) and 11" depth (maybe 11.5").
You'll also need a 14" wide x 9" height side panel. OSH sells 14" x 12" panels so all you have to do for the side panel is to cut the height down. You have a choice between Lexan and plain plexiglas. I picked plexiglas since it is cheaper. Lexan is more expensive, but I think it is more durable and more forgiving (less cracks) to work on.
Go slowly when you drill or dremel. Plexiglas tends to crack if you put a lot of pressure. Before doing it with the dremel I cut my motherboard tray with a saw. That is why it looks so ugly in the pictures.
Here is what I did when cutting the plexiglas boards.
nvidiapwnsati said:Anyways, Im going to buy the ultra matx case and going to something similar like yours(if you dont mind) in the last pm you said that I can go to homedepot and ask them to cut out the proper size for it correct? So the dimensions will be 12x8.5 or the other way around? Thanks!! Im so glad I saw your post about fitting a full atx mobo in a matx case so I wouldn't need to buy another motherboard![]()
The 12" x 8.5" was the size of my Gigabyte 965P-ds3. I'd recommend getting a plexiglas board the size of your motherboard, so that it is fully supported from the back. The case will easily fit full ATX MBs with lengths of 12" width (I/O side) and 11" depth (maybe 11.5").
You'll also need a 14" wide x 9" height side panel. OSH sells 14" x 12" panels so all you have to do for the side panel is to cut the height down. You have a choice between Lexan and plain plexiglas. I picked plexiglas since it is cheaper. Lexan is more expensive, but I think it is more durable and more forgiving (less cracks) to work on.
Go slowly when you drill or dremel. Plexiglas tends to crack if you put a lot of pressure. Before doing it with the dremel I cut my motherboard tray with a saw. That is why it looks so ugly in the pictures.
Here is what I did when cutting the plexiglas boards.
- Measure motherboard and side panels
- Buy 2 plexiglas sheets from a hardware store
- Cute side panel and motherboard tray to size
- Slide motherboard tray into case and mark through holes for existing case distance pins
- Put motherboard on plexiglas tray and mark locations of new distance pins
- Drill holes slowly for through holes and guide holes for distance pins. Make sure to leave enough space between the motherboard tray and the lip of the case so that the brace for add-on cards is inside of the case (this is not too critical, I made this mistake and you can easily correct this by making the through holes a bit longer)
- Slowly screw in new motherboard distance pins to avoid cracking plexiglas. If you notice it is too tight or it starts cracking re-drill the holes (Ideally I'd pre-tap the holes with a tapping drill, but I didn't have any so I ended up using another screw to do this.).
- Add support of plexiglas MB tray towards the front of the case
- Insulate case distance holders (w/ electrical tape) after installing plexiglas tray. Check these again after installing the motherboard to make sure the distance holders didn't rip through the insulation and are touching the motherboard (SHORT!).
- Install graphics and other PCI cards and mark plexiglas side panel cut outs (make a square cut-out for the I/O panel).
- Cut and fit