Project: Beast III

[freddiepm61]

SN for stevennoland?
[H]ardIForum?

f

 

[DeathMan]

you...

are...

a god...

most incredible work i've seen on a case... so much attention to every detail...

love the idea w/ the ccfl's in the handles too

 

[Stevennoland]

SN for stevennoland?
[H]ardIForum?

f

I wouldn't want to put my initials on it, I might want to sell it some day. The HardOCP was difficult enough. I need something easier (it might be that I'm really tired too). Thanks for the ideas!

Steven

Anymore ideas?

 

[Stevennoland]

you...

are...

a god...

most incredible work i've seen on a case... so much attention to every detail...

love the idea w/ the ccfl's in the handles too

Thanks! A limp god may be.

Steven

 

[OCPhreaky]

Something tells me that Kyle will love the fact you added the [H]ard|OCP to your case. In close to 6 years I have never seen Kyle ever not be happy when forum member does something like that.

edit: front page news!!

 

[el rolio]

dude, on the pumps use the top inlet port instead. buy a allen wrench if you have to. its woorth it big time. lots more flow/head. i did the exact thing you did. specced a 18W updated DDC from dangerden, plexi top from voyuermods, and 1/2" barbs from EK waterblocks, all for less than the cost of buying the full thing direct from alphacool in germany.

 

[Stevennoland]

dude, on the pumps use the top inlet port instead. buy a allen wrench if you have to. its woorth it big time. lots more flow/head. i did the exact thing you did. specced a 18W updated DDC from dangerden, plexi top from voyuermods, and 1/2" barbs from EK waterblocks, all for less than the cost of buying the full thing direct from alphacool in germany.

Yea, I was waiting for someone here in the states to start selling the DDC pumps with the plexi installed (one complete unit / 18 watt model), but I got tired of waiting. As far as switching to the top inlet, if you look closely at the pic of the underside of the plexi top, you'll notice how small the inlet hole is. I'm willing to bet if you open up that hole to the same size as the ID of the fitting, it will give you good flow at either location (top or side). Yea, I have heard the 90 degree elbows kill flow, but flow really isn't what I'm after with these Knovect-O-Matic passive rads. I'm really looking for head. These rads a very big and with the length of tubing required to add them to the loop, good head is more important to me. Also, the longer the water stays in the rad, the more chance it has to cool (A higher flow rate would contradict this idea). Thanks for the notion though.

Steven

 

[Demon_of_The_Fall]

Also, the longer the water stays in the rad, the more chance it has to cool (A higher flow rate would contradict this idea). Thanks for the notion though.
Steven

That's untrue, higher flow rate always means better cooling.

 

[racebanner]

That's untrue, higher flow rate always means better cooling.

That is not accurate either, flow through a radiator is a balance of flow vs heat rejection, if you flow water through a radiator to fast it cannot give up heat (the reason most cars will overheat without a thermostat) and therefore the fluid will get hotter and hotter.

 

[azn_bboy07]

great works man!! cant wait to see the whole log complete. howeveri have a favour to ask: how does that giant radiator work? ( about the water flow, how the water got cool down) since i'm a noob on wc.
cheers

 

[paradoxblue]

you have too much time ony our hands. lol

 

[BinarySynapse]

i've been watching this thread for a while now, great work. I wish I could do something like that. Anyway have their been any updates as of late?

Ryan

 

[Stevennoland]

you...

are...

a god...

most incredible work i've seen on a case... so much attention to every detail...

love the idea w/ the ccfl's in the handles too

Thanks. Attention to detail is my middle name. LOL!

Steven

 

[Stevennoland]

great works man!! cant wait to see the whole log complete. howeveri have a favour to ask: how does that giant radiator work? ( about the water flow, how the water got cool down) since i'm a noob on wc.
cheers

The rad works thru heat exchange (convection). The water flows thru the rad, the surrounding cooler air in the room cools the fins on the radiator which in turn cools the water (that's the idea anyway). Obviously, if the ambient temp in the room is hotter than the water, this will not happen (the reverse would!). I will have the water flowing into the top and then down the rad (remember: heat rises). Hope this crude explenation helps. I'm sure someone else here in the forums could explain it better. Thanks for asking and welcome to the forums.

Steven

 

[Stevennoland]

i've been watching this thread for a while now, great work. I wish I could do something like that. Anyway have their been any updates as of late?

Ryan

Thanks for asking Ryan,

Sorry for not posting in a while. I really don't have anything to post. I could show you what I have been working on, but I'd really rather save it and show it when it's complete. I have been working like a mad man though.

The project is the passive radiator for the front door I mentioned some posts ago. This little (ahem) project is spiraling out of control. I initially projected a work time of about 200 hours. As of right now, I'm almost a quarter of the way done. This passive radiator for the front door (from now on it's name is 'doorrad') is really intricate. Intricate to the tune of almost 300 pieces!!!! With 217 of them all identical. I just hope doorrad will work.

I'm also ditching my acrylic resorviors (along with my custom hose barbs). I'm designing a reservior with a built-in radiator. I'm thinking of building two (some one may really like it and want one).

Thanks all and please be patient with me and as always;

Stay tuned.

Steven

 

[98EXL]

any updates?

 

[Pkirk618]

yeah any? Please? Pretty please..?

Your'e my Opiate

 

[Stevennoland]

A snippet.

Here is a quick update of one of the projects I'm working on. This project is named 'Doorrad' for door radiator. I knew I didn't want to leave the front door as is. I wanted to make a statement and have it functional at the same time. So, I came up with an idea to have a passive radiator spell out B3. Since you can't buy one, I had to make it. I ordered sixty feet of 1/4" x 1" aluminum and cut it up into just over 2" lengths. I ended up with 330 blanks (for the 'Doorrad' I'll only need 217 pieces).

The blank

I then milled the one side flat

I then milled one side flat and repeated the process for the other side

Here is a shot of the piles when I was milling the ends

The done piles

I then drilled a .200" inch hole thru the center for a 10-32 screw

Here is a shot of the hole exit side (note burr). Since there are so many pieces I engineered the process to minimize hands-on time (well, to the best of my ability).

The hole is so I can mount them to a spud I created to aid in the process. The back of the spud

This is the side where the blanks (fins) will be screwed for machining (note recessed pocket to clear burr)

Fin on spud

I clamped the spud into an R8 collet in a manual lathe and turned the O.D. to 2" and milled the face to leave an island 1/2" in diameter protruding .075". Here is the result

This process is the one that takes the most time (so far). Of the 330 fins, I only have about 46% of them done. After this side is done, I will bore a pocket in the spud to clear the 1/2" protrusion (this will also help with alignment so the other side is symetrical) and repeat the process (sans turning the 2" O.D.).

Once the sides have been turned, I will drill and bore three .254" holes (one in the center and two 5/8" from centerline). Through these holes I will run three pipes. Tubing for pipes

These pipes will be conjoined with some 2" long cylinders 1" in diameter (the pipes will be sealed by o-rings mounted in I.D. grooves located in the rounds)

Here is a shot of the front door (the door is over 20" in height)

Here is a pic of my CAD drawing showing the door with rounds, fins and tubes. The water will enter on the left side at the bottom of the 'B' and flow around exiting at the bottom of the left side of the number 3

Needless to say, this project is WAY over engineered. But I believe it will truly make a bold statement.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

Sorry I don't have more, but life intrudes.

Stay tuned!

Steven

 

[unhappy_mage]

Nice. I wonder how well that will cool...

 

[jmroberts70]

That is freaking awesome!! I totally love the idea.

 

[Genix]

Wow this mod is insane. Awesome job man. I can't wait to see the next update.

 

[Nihilanth99]

Absolutely stunning work! This redefines "attention to detail"!

 

[TruthInRuin]

Wow man, the "doorrad" its f*cking nuts. I love it

 

[98EXL]

so I have to imagine at this piont in time, your favorite word is 'overkill' ... I like it

 

[Jason711]

i recall the rollers you made were very nice.

however im worried that this computer is gonna leave rutts in all of your floors. that thing is going to fuckin weigh a ton.

 

[Viperlover]

You absolutely HAVE to weigh this thing! See if you can break the 100lb marker....

 

[98EXL]

You absolutely HAVE to weigh this thing! See if you can break the 100lb marker....

I'm sure he will

 

[indokyne]

so each of the doorad fins will have three holes for three pipes if i understand correctly...

but on the CAD of the B3 design, i only saw one pipe going through the fins...

could you clarify?

(great work btw)

 

[Farva]

for the sake of seeing how well done this is so far deserves another...

/subsribed

 

[Farva]

Steven

so 4 handles for 4 people to carry?

this is super sexy

 

[Stevennoland]

so each of the doorad fins will have three holes for three pipes if i understand correctly...

but on the CAD of the B3 design, i only saw one pipe going through the fins...

could you clarify?

(great work btw)

The one pipe you see in the CAD drawing is viewing the door from the front. The curved portion of the fin will be at the front and back of the door. If I had a view of the door from above, you would see it. From the front, imagine there is one pipe, and right behind it is another and right behind that one is another. See?

Thanks all for the kudos. I'm quite sure I'll bust the century mark on the weight.

Steven

 

[BinarySynapse]

Hey, been trying to resist asking as your a busy guy, but can't resist anymore. Any updates?

 

[kydsid]

Just finished reading all 18 pages


There isn't a word in the English language I could use to describe this project. Just don't stop working!

 

[syonide]

wow i think i just fainted this rig is amaising how much does all that stuff cost

 

[indokyne]

yea - what's the status on this project?

 

[linusthepenguin]

This mod speaks QUALITY... right up there with bonz and topnurse

/subscribed

 

[Comix_Dude]

Just finished reading all 18 pages


There isn't a word in the English language I could use to describe this project. Just don't stop working!

same here.............. it is ..... THE BEAST


*subscribed*

 

[uzor]

This mod speaks QUALITY... right up there with bonz and topnurse

/subscribed

That's quite the group you just listed. Let's hope you haven't just cursed Stevennoland to disappear into the mists as the other two you mentioned have.

 

[Stevennoland]

First, sorry about the lack of posts. I don't want to give you all just a nibble here and there. I want you to CHOKE! LOL! Again, thanks for all the kind words. Much to your amazement, I have been working on the Beast. On with the update:

I'd be willing to bet money that a lot of Lian-Li case owners hate their PSU mouinting plates. They always seem to get the hole locations wrong. Here is the V2100's location for the PSU plate

Here is the PSU plate

Here is a close-up of the PSU mount area. Notice anything askew? The hole location notch on the right at the top SHOULD be on the bottom. Check PC Power and Cooling's website, and you'll notice that all their PSU's are made with this odd cut-out on the bottom. The only way I could use this plate would be to turn it around and then upside down (placing the PSU in the top position). Total crap!!

So I decided to ditch Lian-Li's plate for my own. Enter the PSU shroud. This piece of 1.2" thick plexiglass had to be squared up to a size as tall as the stock plate, and wider (I'll explain why later). Penny is for scale. The blue tape is painters edge trim tape (the slab came with this crappy plastic coat)

Here is what she looks like so far. I knew I was going to be cramped for room inside this case, so the shroud pulls the fans out of the case by .850"

Close-up's (front)

(back)

(square on)

These two 80mm fan mounts are where the Black Ice micro 2 is going. If I were to use the stock PSU plate, one side of the radiator would be outside the confines of the case (I wouldn't be able to put the side panel on either). So I ended up making another shroud for the micro 2 rad.

close-up's

Here is the shroud attached to the BIM2

This BIM2 assembly will be joined to the PSU shroud with 8-32 button head screws that are 1.75" long (18.8 stainless steel no less)

I figured the depth of the mounting screw holes just right

Here is the PSU shroud attached to the case

Here are the fans intalled (No, these are not the final fans for the beast. Actually, I haven't even looked for some. I'm waiting for some that will push a boat load of air in a whisper)

(square-on)

Here is a shot of the back side of the fans installed

close-up

I forgot to make room for the wires. Doh!

Here is the BIM2 assembly attached (I got lucky, all eight screws line up. Hey, math does work)

Here you can see I left a smidgen of room between the rad and the case middle section floor

You can see the BIM2 rad doesn't stick out past the case

barb side

close-up

While all of you have been waiting, I have been working. We got this job to make some finned coils for a customer. I was lucky enough to grab a few (dimensionally incorrect, but good enough for me). These are over 8 inches long and an inch in diameter

close-up

I had to machine some of the fin off and cut the overall lenght down (I added the recess for the hose and clamp)

close-up's

the lot

To affix these coils to the PSU shroud, I made some brackets. First, the aluminum squared up

Then the holes, recess and the like

Can you see the little divets? These are what happens when your vise is not clean. Doesn't matter, no one will see them.

Here are the coils in the brackets

close-up's

Here is the assembly attached to the PSU shroud

ouside view

inside

for your viewing pleasure

Here is the whole enchalada

can you see through?

Obviously the PSU shroud is not done. Where are the hoses form the coils going to attach? Where is the PSU going (seems obvious too me)? I still have a lot more work to do. I will definately keep you all posted. Thanks for looking.

Steven

 

[el rolio]