Powering a water pump to test loop

pendragon1

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yeah, it will just give it a straight 12v ie full blast. if you dont want full blast, move the inside pin to the outside to give it 7v. pump didnt come with one?
Thanks! Just wanted to make sure it wouldn't provide too much or too little power since the adapter only has 2 pins.

You know, the kit came with the power supply shorting attachment but I could not find anything to attach the pump to.
 
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Sorry 1 more question:

I know this is drain port. Is the fitting a drain valve? The kit came with a tube to plug in for draining but I want to make sure this fitting will prevent the water from rushing out.
 

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pendragon1

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odd it didnt come with one. youll use it and the jumper to power up the psu to fill the loop. dont connect ANY other power connectors to any other components, just the pump.
cant tell, pic is too small. if its not, you have to turn it so its the high point, attach the hose and then turn it down to drain.
 
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odd it didnt come with one. youll use it and the jumper to power up the psu to fill the loop. dont connect ANY other power connectors to any other components, just the pump.
cant tell, pic is too small. if its not, you have to turn it so its the high point, attach the hose and then turn it down to drain.

Thank you. Appreciate the help.
 

pendragon1

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no prob. oh and you power off the psu, jumper it, fill, power on/off to fill while never letting the pump go dry.
 

Tsumi

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Thanks! Just wanted to make sure it wouldn't provide too much or too little power since the adapter only has 2 pins.

You know, the kit came with the power supply shorting attachment but I could not find anything to attach the pump to.

It's not a problem if it's only two pins because those are the only two pins that actually carry power. One of the pins is for RPM feedback, and the last pin is for PWM control.
 

termite

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Sorry 1 more question:

I know this is drain port. Is the fitting a drain valve? The kit came with a tube to plug in for draining but I want to make sure this fitting will prevent the water from rushing out.

Hard to tell from that pic. Never seen a drain valve like that. What brand is you distro plate?
 
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Hard to tell from that pic. Never seen a drain valve like that. What brand is you distro plate?
This is the pre-assembled bitspower Titan X 1.2 kit.

Ok so I ran the loop for about 10 minutes. Doesn't appear to be any leaks. By the way, that one way valve is indeed the drain. I can take the cap off the fitting and the water stays in.

However, I'm a little confused about water levels. When the loop is off, the res is pretty much full. When the loop is running, the level is very low. I marked the water levels in yellow in the pics below. Should I keep adding water while the loop is running until the res is full while running?
 

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pendragon1

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By the way, that one way valve is indeed the drain. I can take the cap off the fitting and the water stays in.

Should I keep adding water while the loop is running until the res is full while running?
ah ok good.
yes. unless you like the waterfall look i would assume it is doing....
 

termite

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This is the pre-assembled bitspower Titan X 1.2 kit.

Ok so I ran the loop for about 10 minutes. Doesn't appear to be any leaks. By the way, that one way valve is indeed the drain. I can take the cap off the fitting and the water stays in.

However, I'm a little confused about water levels. When the loop is off, the res is pretty much full. When the loop is running, the level is very low. I marked the water levels in yellow in the pics below. Should I keep adding water while the loop is running until the res is full while running?

It looks like the fillport cap is still off in both pics. So let the system run, then top it off, and cap.

With the fillport cap off, any component above that point (i.e. you rad) can drain its contents, as the air is allowed to escape and fluids will always try to find level, so the level in the distroplate will show high. As soon as the pump is running, it will pump fluid out, into the rad, so the level drops.
 

BrodVictor

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Hi.....to begin your PSU without turning on your PC, you need to bounce the Green wire and the Black wires with a paper cut, a jumper, a wire tie, or something conductive. It is 100% protected, as this is just a sign that advises the PSU to supply power. Underneath, where the folks thumb is, you will see on the clasp side, wire number 3 and 4 (from the right) are Black and Green... Simply short those two, and the PSU turns on.

In the event that you have 100% dark links, look into the wire chart for your PSU. You need PSU ON and a Ground. That is it.. Allow the siphon to pursue for 24 hours it is full, or until you confide in it.
 

Light1984

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Don't mean to hijack thread but when jumpering a 24 pin to run a pump, do you need to disconnect everything else that the power supply is plugged into, pcie gpu cables, cpu eps cables on motherboard, sata, etc?
 
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Don't mean to hijack thread but when jumpering a 24 pin to run a pump, do you need to disconnect everything else that the power supply is plugged into, pcie gpu cables, cpu eps cables on motherboard, sata, etc?
Yes, nothing other than the pump should be getting power.
 

pendragon1

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Don't mean to hijack thread but when jumpering a 24 pin to run a pump, do you need to disconnect everything else that the power supply is plugged into, pcie gpu cables, cpu eps cables on motherboard, sata, etc?
didnt read the thread either?

youll use it and the jumper to power up the psu to fill the loop. dont connect ANY other power connectors to any other components, just the pump.
 
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