Possible i7 Computer

A small tool box or even a "tackle box" organizer like the ones sold at Wal-Mart or Target can go a long way.

You could even label it. ;)
 
Don't think that way. If you want "quality" speakers, you'll have to spend a bit more for them.

Here are two examples of what I was talking about earlier. Swan has a 2.0 set, the D1080MkII, and a 2.1 set, the M12.

If you want a cheap 5.1 set at under/around $100, however, I can't help you there.
 
As per the memory, yes it is intended to work on 1.65V, but I've read more than one occasion where they default to 1.8V, and I don't want to take that risk (Memory should be no more than .5V higher than i7, which is .8-1.35V default)

I'm not really looking for high-quality speakers; in fact, I was going to stick with in-monitor speakers! I just saw those logitechs and thought they were a pretty good deal.
 
Sansari said:
As per the memory, yes it is intended to work on 1.65V, but I've read more than one occasion where they default to 1.8V, and I don't want to take that risk (Memory should be no more than .5V higher than i7, which is .8-1.35V default)
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The memory voltage on the 1366 platform should not exceed 1.65v because the memory controller is built into the CPU. Many would agree that it's more beneficial to go with 1.5v sticks since they run cooler and provide more overclocking headroom relative to the 1.65v kits. However, running the RAM at 1.65v is certainly not dangerous and is within the recommended range. I'm not too sure about it defaulting to 1.8v from first boot, but you can immediately change the setting in BIOS. If you don't want to risk it, go with a 1.5v or 1.65v kit.
 
Yeah I'm sticking with my corsair 1.65V

Hey, you have the Z-2300! How is that for you? Are there any problems with it?
 
Sansari said:
Hey, you have the Z-2300! How is that for you? Are there any problems with it?
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I got these speakers about 5 years ago. Good enough sound quality for me, plenty of bass, no problems whatsoever. They're not as high end as Swans or M-Audio but they suffice for my needs. If I had to purchase new speakers today, I would probably get some better high-end speakers in that price range ($150).
 
Hmm. I'm looking at the z cinema ($80ish w/ shipping) and the z2300 ($107 + shipping), so the z cinema is $40+ cheaper.

As I've heard, the z cinema is better than the 2300 esp. in midtones and very little to no distortion, but it has very weak base and it slows down games because of its hd sound. The z2300 also has a volume dial while the z cinema only has the remote. I really want that volume dial.

From the reviews I've seen the general consensus still seems to say that the Z cinema has higher quality in general. And since it's a fair bit cheaper, I'll just get that. Later though, not with my pc. Swan m12 is tempting at $100. And it has a volume dial! Would the Swan M12 definitely be better than the logitech z cinema?
 
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PC_User said:
So my assumption was correct after all. :) Rarely have I seen a DDR3 1600 kit that needs more than 1.65v.
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Most high-end, enthusiast level DDR3 kits that came out prior to the i7 launch were higher voltage sticks -- mainly dual channel DDR3 kits.

Sansari said:
... Would the Swan M12 definitely be better than the logitech z cinema?
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By far.
 
That's IDE, I would prefer a sata. Also, good news: the monitor is out of stock too! Waiting to buy stuff is so much fun.

I'm not buying lightscribe CD's so Samsung. Doesn't really matter anyway.
 
Sansari said:
That's IDE, I would prefer a sata. Also, good news: the monitor is out of stock too! Waiting to buy stuff is so much fun.

I'm not buying lightscribe CD's so Samsung. Doesn't really matter anyway.
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Sorry, meant to link to this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136152

It's an LG and was voted 2x Winner of Customer Choice Award (if you're into Newegg reviews). Still cheaper than that Samsung. A DVD burner is just a burner after all.

As far as monitors, I wouldn't buy them from Newegg because of their policy: minimum of 8 dead pixels.
 
Awesome, saved $3! Thanks. Do you happen to know Amazon's return policy for monitors? I think I'll get it from there because we have gift certificate type things. From what I'm seeing they seem to be really good about returns.
 
Sansari said:
Awesome, saved $3! Thanks. Do you happen to know Amazon's return policy for monitors? I think I'll get it from there because we have gift certificate type things. From what I'm seeing they seem to be really good about returns.
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They're much better. I've heard stories about people having no trouble returning monitors and they even pay for return shipping AFAIK. Might want to do a quick Google search or in the Display forum to make sure.
 
Changing memory to a slightly lower speed:
Original:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236 Corsair 1600 cas 8 $105

New:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227365 OCZ 1600 cas 8 $80 ($100 w/o rebate, rebate is weird apparently)
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227375 OCZ 1333 cas 7 $95 + free 4gb flash drive... I could use one.
↑Going with this one I think.

Does slower memory limit overclockability of the processor?
 
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Sansari said:
... Does slower memory limit overclockability of the processor?
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Yes. So, if you go with DDR3-1333, you could still reach 3.8Ghz by using a 6x DRAM multiplier. DDR3-1600 would let you reach 4Ghz or higher.
 
Hmm. I kinda wanted to try 4 GHz, though I doubt I could get it with 1: a $40 cooler and 2: absolutely no experience in overclocking. 3.8 GHz is probably more than enough anyway.

The dark knight is pretty good though, from what I've heard.

Random question: Should I look up the newest version of the evga e758's BIOS, save it onto a flash drive, then upload it into the mobo before even installing the OS? Someone suggested doing it that way, and that makes most sense I believe. This would be "flashing" the BIOS correct?
Actually I think I'll do it by cd.
 
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Sansari said:
Changing memory to a slightly lower speed:
Original:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145236 Corsair 1600 cas 8 $105

New:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227365 OCZ 1600 cas 8 $80 ($100 w/o rebate, rebate is weird apparently)
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227375 OCZ 1333 cas 7 $95 + free 4gb flash drive... I could use one.
↑Going with this one I think.

Does slower memory limit overclockability of the processor?
Click to expand...

Why? DDR3 1600 will provide you with more overclocking headroom for the i7. Any particular reason you want to go with the DDR3 1333 kit other than that "free" flash drive?

Sansari said:
Hmm. I kinda wanted to try 4 GHz, though I doubt I could get it with 1: a $40 cooler and 2: absolutely no experience in overclocking. 3.8 GHz is probably more than enough anyway.

The dark knight is pretty good though, from what I've heard.

Random question: Should I look up the newest version of the evga e758's BIOS, save it onto a flash drive, then upload it into the mobo before even installing the OS? Someone suggested doing it that way, and that makes most sense I believe. This would be "flashing" the BIOS correct?
Actually I think I'll do it by cd.
Click to expand...

You could get 4 GHz with the Dark Knight if your particular chip will go that far. The CPU will be the deciding factor as no overclock (not even 3.8 GHz) is guaranteed. Yes, that would be called "flashing the BIOS." I recommend doing that after you have set everything up and after you actually install the Windows.
 
Alright, thanks. So flashing the BIOS won't reset any hardware or delete information?

I was thinking that memory because it's a bit cheaper, and it has a lower CAS latency. I could just get the 1600 then.

Corsair CAS 8 $105
Corsair CAS 7 $125
OCZ CAS 7 $80-100 (bad rebate?)
OCZ CAS 8 $86 XMP

Nobody who's had the corsair memory got DOA sticks, but some OCZ's have. There were also some errors with OCZ sticks not running at specs, whether it's lower speeds or instability at suggested speed. Corsair seems a bit more reliable.
I think I'll get the CAS 7 Corsair, again just to be 'safe' from DOA's and bad performance. Then again it's $45 more and most OCZ reviews are positive.
 
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1. Flashing the BIOS will reset all of your BIOS settings (any overclock settings that you have enabled and so forth).

2. No real-world difference between the timings at a frequency of 1600 MHz. I always recommend this 6GB G.Skill DDR3 1600 kit since its a good solid kit that runs at a lower voltage.
 
I think I want to stick with OCZ ($20 cheaper, pretty good quality, claims a lower latency), unless the G.skill is truly better. What's the benefit of running at a lower voltage?

How helpful would a jump from 6gb to 12gb be? For gaming? For multimedia like photoshop?

More random stuff: I'm looking at the coolit domino ALC... It seems like a nice cooler, and great at $80, no?
 
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Simply put, RAM running at a lower voltage runs cooler, and it gives you a bit more overclocking headroom. IIRC, the limit for Core i7 is 1.65V, so the OCZ kit would be cutting it close -- especially if you have any intentions of overclocking.

Few games require more than 4GB of RAM. In fact, many would run just as well off of 2GB of RAM as they would with 6GB. Photoshop would benefit from additional RAM but that extra amount would be better served in a RAM disk. Personally, I don't believe that you need more than 6GB of RAM.

The Coolit Domino ALC is designed for water cooling. Keep it simple and stick with the Xigmatek Dark Knight that I recommended earlier.
 
Ty for the coupon code.
Ok 6gb it is.
Does anyone have a link to a particularly good i7 overclocking guide? How can I tell what memory clocks I will need for a certain cpu clock?
 
Guide? We have three forums here you could go for overclocking advice. Check out the Intel Processors forum, the Intel MoBo's subforum (under Motherboards), or the Overclocking & Cooling forum.

Go with G.Skill RAM. Most of the OCZ DDR3 1600 kits that I've ran into run on 1.65V. I've seen G.Skill run oftentimes between 1.5V and 1.6V.
 
Do what you want. It's obvious that there is nothing I can say that would derail your thought process.
 
Sansari said:
I think I want to stick with OCZ ($20 cheaper ...
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I guarantee you'll pay the same amount for both sticks at checkout. ;) Rebates are never guaranteed.

G.Skill vs Corsair, of course, we'd recommend the G.Skill because of the lower voltage. However, you don't need to listen to us -- its your money, go with what you like.

//edit: me slow
 
Sorry for being nitpicky, can you just tell me one thing then, can I underclock the corsair to cas latency 9 like the g.skill, and have it run at a lower voltage?
 
tiraides said:
Do what you want. It's obvious that there is nothing I can say that would derail your thought process.
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That's how I've been feeling for the past 4 pages of this thread...

Sansari said:
Sorry for being nitpicky, can you just tell me one thing then, can I underclock the corsair to cas latency 9 like the g.skill, and have it run at a lower voltage?
Click to expand...

Not always. Sometimes you can loosen the timings and lower the voltage from 1.65v but it doesn't work for all the sticks. Also, 1.5v is a far shot from 1.65v. You may be able to get it to run at 9-9-9-24 and 1.6v but 1.5v is not guaranteed. Also, OCZ rebates are not guaranteed (have heard about OCZ not honoring the rebates) so its your call. Just get what you want.
 
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