Please look over my first WC build.

D

dbonetrain

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May 29, 2011
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This is my first water cooling loop I have ever done. With that said I was hoping I could get assistance in ensuring the fittings, tubing, and metals are capatable. If it is possible to reduce the price without compromising the looks or performance, or increase the performance without increasing the cost I would love to know where. I am going to purchase all this from performancepc.com because decent prices, and shipping to APO for only 42$.

I do not have anything other then my sincerest gratefullness to offer. I thank you in advanced for your help, and will document the install when the parts arrive. I have already ordered yellow sleeving to sleeve the cables as well.

Here is my rig:

comppe.jpg


Here is the NZXT website with more pictures to assist with guidance based on where to put the triple radiator. I am thinking it will have to be mounted on top and the hoses passed through.

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/crafted_series/lexa_s

Here is where I plan on putting the parts:
newersetup.jpg


Proposed build for my system:
Subtotal : $385.71
Shipping to APO : $39.50
Total : $425.21

Edit: Thanks for the suggestions, I have updated the parts list.
 
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Skip the dye, get yellow tubing instead.

For cooling both CPU and GPU i would say get a thicker radiator...i really like the RX series from XSPC...i have an RX480 cooling a 2500k and 6950 2gb very well, both overclocked. If your not overclocking then the thinner rad is less of an issue.

Lastly, i would say get a pump/res combo unit for the D5. It will add a little cost but you will get a bit more performance out of your pump. I have this it fits, it works, and i like it.
 
nissanztt90 said:
Skip the dye, get yellow tubing instead.

For cooling both CPU and GPU i would say get a thicker radiator...i really like the RX series from XSPC...i have an RX480 cooling a 2500k and 6950 2gb very well, both overclocked. If your not overclocking then the thinner rad is less of an issue.

Lastly, i would say get a pump/res combo unit for the D5. It will add a little cost but you will get a bit more performance out of your pump. I have this it fits, it works, and i like it.
Click to expand...

I don't mind getting a thicker radiator as long as the cost doesn't go up more then maybe 10-20$. I definitely have overclocking on the mind. I have my i7 at 4.5 stable on air, and wanna try to get it to 4.8. I also want to overclock my video card just a tad bit. If I drop the dye, that frees up about ~10 and could put the XSPC RX360 into price range:here

The whole pump/res combo thing throws me. Could you link the combo or pump that goes with that res? Or, does that res just go directly on top of the Swiftech pump I choose? I am so lost with that. The XPSC pump combos were only putting out ~600LPH where the Swiftech puts out ~1300LPH. What am I doing wrong, lol?

Also, why should I skip the dye? I have read that around, it can stain the hoses, looks better, but does that really equate into skipping it? I am unsure. I am off to look up some different pictures of yellow die builds vs yellow tubing.

Looking into yellow tubing, performancepcs does not offer primo in yellow, are any other brands up with them?

Thanks for your help.
 
If your overclocking your going to want a better radiator so id put the RX360 into your build right off the bat. Thats probably the best and most cost effective rad that you will reasonably fit.

The swifttech mcp655 you chose is a rebranded laing D5...they come in two variations...one with speed control and one without. You remove the top of the pump and it bolts on to the resevoir i linked to.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-pump-top-reservoir/acrylic-tank-reservoir-for-laing-d5/

They also have a resevoir like that you can mount in a 5.25 bay but i would recommend against it due to noise. As you mentioned they also have there own pump/res combos but i havent really heard good things about there own combos. Best to stick with the mcp655 and throw it in one of their resevoirs.

Dye can stain hoses, stain water blocks, gunk up water blocks...pure distilled water is the best for heat transfer. I only run distilled water...no additives. Id also stick with primochill tubing and just source it from somewhere else. Also even though its your first time i bet you still wont use 10 feet...but better safe than sorry.
 
nissanztt90 said:
If your overclocking your going to want a better radiator so id put the RX360 into your build right off the bat. Thats probably the best and most cost effective rad that you will reasonably fit.

The swifttech mcp655 you chose is a rebranded laing D5...they come in two variations...one with speed control and one without. You remove the top of the pump and it bolts on to the resevoir i linked to.

http://www.xs-pc.com/products/laing-pump-top-reservoir/acrylic-tank-reservoir-for-laing-d5/

They also have a resevoir like that you can mount in a 5.25 bay but i would recommend against it due to noise. As you mentioned they also have there own pump/res combos but i havent really heard good things about there own combos. Best to stick with the mcp655 and throw it in one of their resevoirs.

Dye can stain hoses, stain water blocks, gunk up water blocks...pure distilled water is the best for heat transfer. I only run distilled water...no additives. Id also stick with primochill tubing and just source it from somewhere else. Also even though its your first time i bet you still wont use 10 feet...but better safe than sorry.
Click to expand...


Okay so I switched out the Rad I originally choose with the RX which is about twice as deep. I also went with colored tubing, had to go with blue because there was no yellow for primochill. I went ahead and got 10 feet instead of 20 feet.

As for the reservoir I am going with the XSPC that goes on the MCP. If I am not mistaken.

Because the reservoir is going directly on the pump, do I need a special fitting? I was wondering what my fitting count should be. With my original build I was getting 10 fittings, 2 per Rad, CPU, GPU, Res, and Pump. Now would I only need 8?

My subtotal has gone up a bit to $387.15. Nothing breaking the budget yet, but I would like to keep it at that or below because I know I am going to forget something and have to spend money on that forgettable piece.
 
No, no special fittings are needed. The XSPC reservoir comes with everything you need to mount the D5 to it. I know, I use that exact same reservoir.

Yes, your fitting count does go down by 2 by using that.
 
Tsumi said:
No, no special fittings are needed. The XSPC reservoir comes with everything you need to mount the D5 to it. I know, I use that exact same reservoir.

Yes, your fitting count does go down by 2 by using that.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

This might be another dumb question, but I was looking into the pictures of the fittings more. The fittings screw directly into the parts? Do the hoses also secure onto the fittings somehow, or is there another piece to get the hoses on the fittings?
 
Even though your subtotal has gone up i think youll be getting more performance per dollar with the minor changes. I think you will have plenty over left over tubing even with 10 feet...just go slow...measure twice and cut once...your also eliminating a run of tubing by combining the pump and res.

Not sure how i missed this before but the fittings you have selected are not the fittings you need. You need hose barb fittings, or compression fittings. Stick with hose barb fittings...compression fitting are not cheap.

These are the fittings you need...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=30286

Also available in black chrome...you will need 2 for each component totaling 8.

For your tubing...you can go 1/2 ID tubing like you selected and will need to use hose clamps over the barbs. You can also get 7/16 ID tubing to force over the 1/2in barbs. This will be tight enough to seal with out a clamp. I ran mine like this for quite some time with no issues. They are hard to pull off when you go to take the loop apart, and you need a pot of hot water to heat the tube up just to slide it on the barb...once the hose cools its on that barb pretty damn tight. This leaves a very clean look. Primochill offers tubing in 7/16 also.

And lastly...some components like cpu blocks, gpu blocks, rads....come with cheap hose barb fittings. I prefer to have all matching stuff so i personally would still buy a set of matching higher quality finish fittings.
 
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dbonetrain said:
Thank you.

This might be another dumb question, but I was looking into the pictures of the fittings more. The fittings screw directly into the parts? Do the hoses also secure onto the fittings somehow, or is there another piece to get the hoses on the fittings?
Click to expand...

I use metal worm drive hose clamps that you can get at a hardware store for a quarter. Some folks use zip ties. You can get specialist clamps for more coin.
 
nissanztt90 said:
Even though your subtotal has gone up i think youll be getting more performance per dollar with the minor changes. I think you will have plenty over left over tubing even with 10 feet...just go slow...measure twice and cut once...your also eliminating a run of tubing by combining the pump and res.

Not sure how i missed this before but the fittings you have selected are not the fittings you need. You need hose barb fittings, or compression fittings. Stick with hose barb fittings...compression fitting are not cheap.

These are the fittings you need...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=59_346_951&products_id=30286

Also available in black chrome...you will need 2 for each component totaling 8.

For your tubing...you can go 1/2 ID tubing like you selected and will need to use hose clamps over the barbs. You can also get 7/16 ID tubing to force over the 1/2in barbs. This will be tight enough to seal with out a clamp. I ran mine like this for quite some time with no issues. They are hard to pull off when you go to take the loop apart, and you need a pot of hot water to heat the tube up just to slide it on the barb...once the hose cools its on that barb pretty damn tight. This leaves a very clean look. Primochill offers tubing in 7/16 also.

And lastly...most components like cpu blocks, gpu blocks, rads....come with cheap hose barb fittings. I prefer to have all matching stuff so i personally would still buy a set of matching higher quality finish fittings.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your assistance! Tomorrow I will make the changes to the car, and with the wife's final approval pull the trigger and wait for parts to arrive. I am going to go with the 1/2" and get clamps. Do you suggest I buy PTNuke or a Silver coil?

Skripka said:
I use metal worm drive hose clamps that you can get at a hardware store for a quarter. Some folks use zip ties. You can get specialist clamps for more coin.
Click to expand...

I have seen metal worm clamps quite often working for my dad flipping houses. They are great for quick fixes and plumbing, but I would like to get something just a bit more stylish. Thank you for your cost effective suggestion. I appreciate it, and will take it in consideration when I water cool my spare machine in an attempt to overclock it to hell.
 
dbonetrain said:
Thanks for your assistance! Tomorrow I will make the changes to the car, and with the wife's final approval pull the trigger and wait for parts to arrive. I am going to go with the 1/2" and get clamps. Do you suggest I buy PTNuke or a Silver coil?
Click to expand...

Honestly...no. If your really concerned...a silver coil if anything. Buy a gallon of distilled water from the grocery store. I dont use biocide or silver and have never had a growth problem using distilled water from the grocery store. Make sure your components are clean...dont forget to flush the radiator before you install it.

For clamps there is a section performance-pcs for that...id suggest some colored zip ties before buying re-usable clamps...but id also just as quickly say get 7/16 tubing to slip over a 1/2 barb and skip clamping altogether.
 
dbonetrain said:
Thanks for your assistance! Tomorrow I will make the changes to the car, and with the wife's final approval pull the trigger and wait for parts to arrive. I am going to go with the 1/2" and get clamps. Do you suggest I buy PTNuke or a Silver coil?



I have seen metal worm clamps quite often working for my dad flipping houses. They are great for quick fixes and plumbing, but I would like to get something just a bit more stylish. Thank you for your cost effective suggestion. I appreciate it, and will take it in consideration when I water cool my spare machine in an attempt to overclock it to hell.
Click to expand...

The reason I like El Cheapo clamps is that short of using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, any other more styling method of securing barb fittings isn't that secure... As in you can yoink the hose right off the barb, or with stubby barbs like Swiftech barbs the hose can be pulled or angled such that it leaks.

It is a matter of taste and how comfortable you are.
 
I use a silver killcoil for peace of mind. It's cheap, and there's really no reason not to use it. Drop it in your reservoir, and it'll last you a lifetime.
 
I haven't seen a mention of what fans you will be using on the radiator. Can't forget those... :p
 
Going to go grab chow from the DFAC, and when I get back I will update the proposed build. I want to thank all you guys for the great replies and information. I will take many pictures for you all! Could I turn this into a build/project thread?

nissanztt90 said:
Honestly...no. If your really concerned...a silver coil if anything. Buy a gallon of distilled water from the grocery store. I dont use biocide or silver and have never had a growth problem using distilled water from the grocery store. Make sure your components are clean...dont forget to flush the radiator before you install it.

For clamps there is a section performance-pcs for that...id suggest some colored zip ties before buying re-usable clamps...but id also just as quickly say get 7/16 tubing to slip over a 1/2 barb and skip clamping altogether.
Click to expand...

I am hesitant to go with the smaller tubing, but I might go with it. I would still use clamps/zip ties. I am probably going to go with zip ties, and hide the securing mechanism behind the hose. Could you elaborate on the tubing size/ barb? G1/4 is the threading for the actual part and barb, but the barb has another size for the tubing? 7/16 is the inside, so what is the outside?

Skripka said:
The reason I like El Cheapo clamps is that short of using 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs, any other more styling method of securing barb fittings isn't that secure... As in you can yoink the hose right off the barb, or with stubby barbs like Swiftech barbs the hose can be pulled or angled such that it leaks.

It is a matter of taste and how comfortable you are.
Click to expand...

Good information. I think I am going to go with zipties. I know zipties can hold like a champ, but for looks I am going to hide the little securing barb behind the hose. For looks, and science.

Tsumi said:
I use a silver killcoil for peace of mind. It's cheap, and there's really no reason not to use it. Drop it in your reservoir, and it'll last you a lifetime.
Click to expand...

I think I will purchase one at a later instance. Probably a month after I get it up and running good.

Cruiza said:
I haven't seen a mention of what fans you will be using on the radiator. Can't forget those... :p
Click to expand...

Okay, I will be honest. I have the Case fans that came with the case at the top(2) plus the one right behind the CPU cooler that I was going to repurpose as the fans. Is this not ideal?

Edit: updated original post to reflect barbs vs crazy fittings I choose, and updated prices.
 
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dbonetrain said:
Okay, I will be honest. I have the Case fans that came with the case at the top(2) plus the one right behind the CPU cooler that I was going to repurpose as the fans. Is this not ideal?
Click to expand...

Well, they certainly aren't ideal, but they'll work (as long as they are 120 mm fans, of course). :)
 
dbonetrain said:
I am hesitant to go with the smaller tubing, but I might go with it. I would still use clamps/zip ties. I am probably going to go with zip ties, and hide the securing mechanism behind the hose. Could you elaborate on the tubing size/ barb? G1/4 is the threading for the actual part and barb, but the barb has another size for the tubing? 7/16 is the inside, so what is the outside?
Click to expand...

There are barbs for 1/2in tubing and 3/8in tubing. The threading is G1/4 like you mentioned. 1/2in barbs are designed for 1/2in ID tubing...so when you move down a little bit to 7/16in ID tubing you get a much tighter fit on the barb...so tight that you need to heat the tubing up in hot water just to be able to get it on the barb. Heating it up will cause it to become more flexible...and when it cools youll have 7/16in ID tubing on a 1/2in barb...tight as fuck. People do this for the tighter fit for more security and less chance of a hose popping off and i can tell you in my experience that a 7/16in ID tube on a 1/2in barb aint coming off unless you want it too...and even then its a little tough to get off. As i mentioned earlier people go this route so they dont have to use clamps for a cleaner look. 7/16in ID on a 1/2in barb is VERY secure even with out clamps.
 
nissanztt90 said:
There are barbs for 1/2in tubing and 3/8in tubing. The threading is G1/4 like you mentioned. 1/2in barbs are designed for 1/2in ID tubing...so when you move down a little bit to 7/16in ID tubing you get a much tighter fit on the barb...so tight that you need to heat the tubing up in hot water just to be able to get it on the barb. Heating it up will cause it to become more flexible...and when it cools youll have 7/16in ID tubing on a 1/2in barb...tight as fuck. People do this for the tighter fit for more security and less chance of a hose popping off and i can tell you in my experience that a 7/16in ID tube on a 1/2in barb aint coming off unless you want it too...and even then its a little tough to get off. As i mentioned earlier people go this route so they dont have to use clamps for a cleaner look. 7/16in ID on a 1/2in barb is VERY secure even with out clamps.
Click to expand...

Ha, no kidding. 1/2" tubing on 1/2" barbs is difficult enough to remove already. I often end up cutting the tubing length-wise in order to remove it from the barb...
 
Cruiza said:
Ha, no kidding. 1/2" tubing on 1/2" barbs is difficult enough to remove already. I often end up cutting the tubing length-wise in order to remove it from the barb...
Click to expand...

I see to remember having to do that as well at least with Tygon tubing. Never tried with primoflex.
 
Cruiza said:
Ha, no kidding. 1/2" tubing on 1/2" barbs is difficult enough to remove already. I often end up cutting the tubing length-wise in order to remove it from the barb...
Click to expand...

Depends entirely on the barb. I have some Bitspower barbs that are quite hard, whereas I have some Swiftech stubby barbs that can be yoinked almost without effort.
 
I have absolutely no problems removing my Primochill 1/2" ID tubing from my XSPC and DangerDen barbs.
 
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