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please help me with cooling tips

Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
641
OCCT 20 min gives 58c peak, crashes past 20min.

Playing Dirt 2 at 5760*1080 for 45min gave cpu 61c peak, top 5850gpu 75c peak 52% fan speed.

I have possibility to install 2 top fans approx where the red dots are.

the red dot at GPU is really not able to install as cooler is in way, however I have removed the 140mm plate at door next to gpu for better airflow.

I have indeed cable managed the case but forgot take picture.

DSC03188kopiera2.jpg


2011-01-31-18h01-CPU1.png


CPU overclock: 200*18.5, 1.40v.
 
If I am understanding you right, it gives no errors with a 20 minute test, but longer than that and it crashes?

I don't think your 600-1200 rpm fans are cutting it with that kind of CPU overclock. You're going to need a lot more airflow than that. Upgrade your case fans, and most importantly, upgrade the fan on the CPU. Adding fans to the top of the case would also help out.

Which revision of the 965 are you using? If it's the C3 revision, then you should hit 3.8 ghz at 1.4v without any problems, I know mine did, and many other people's did as well.

Edit: It would help if you put your system in the post.
 
While this is not your case, this is the tip I gave to someone else asking about fans for cooling.

1634e970.jpg
 
as others have suggested, installing higher rpm fans and perhaps cleaning up your cable management, there's not much else you can do.

if i'm looking at the photo right, all the 3 1/2 HD bays are full? if that's the case, those intake fans are really only cooling the HDs.

unless you're really attached to your case or live in a climate with low ambient temps, i think you need a bigger, check that... a much bigger case.
 
Thats a full size case, so going bigger might help a little, but the diagram above should maximize the cooling on this case. Those harddrives are like a wall, especially for low speed fans, so bringing air in the back and up should give you better cooling. Before you remount your CPU cooler, try flipping the fan around to the other side after you have installed two fans on top and flipped around your 1000 rpm Fractal. You might not have to rotate your CPU cooler.
 
magoo;
water.

i'm big on WC but where is this guy gonna fit it.
sure that monster cpu HS will go but the rad will probably need to be mounted outside the case (those vid card and HD's will be dumping too much heat into the case).
don't see where the pump nor the res will go. sure you could forgo the res tho personally i wouldn't.
maybe i'm being too anal and can't see past the sloppy dog chopps (chaotic internal management).
still think a bigger case is the way to go, will certainly counter having to use high & louder rpm fans.
 
thanks for all the replies and suggestions, really appreciated.

I like the idea by BlueFireIce, however atm I try to avoid adding more fans bcs of noise.

I'm considering replacing the white fractal fan with the slipstream 1200rpm.
Putting 2 typhoon 600-1050rpm for push pull on to the cpu cooler.

I'm a bit worried about noise, however If I can build a system that is loud when gaming and quiet while surfing would be nice.

As for gaming it has yet to crash, I'll run prime95 12h and if it satable keep it this way.
 
More fans is not really much of a problem, so long as you have good fans running at a low rpm, having a good air flow/path set up being maintained by many low rpm fans does much better than a few higher rpm fans pushing air all over the place. I have the same fan mountings that you have in your case (just not the bottom one) and all of mine are filled, though none of the fans ever pass 800rpm, and yet my case is quiet, the hard drives scream compared to the fans.

So, if you can, invest into some GT's (or the like) and a fan controller, and cut out any grills in the way of the fans to stop air turbulence and I think you should be good.
 
BlueFireIce that sounds like a good idea.

I'm considering getting some 4-5 of the 2150s GT from the overclock.net thread.

I would either have them at minimum on fancontroller or install to motherboard with 5v adapters.

push pull on cpu 660-830rpm, then GT 1000rpm outtake fan.

I just put the fancontrol for front intake fans to maximum and the noise didn't improve alot(1000rpm fracta and 800rpm slip stream).
 
change of mind, I'm planning on push pull for cpu with 2 of the 140mm Kaze Maru 500rpm as these I have at home.

should I see temperature decrease compared to the 1200 rpm fan?
 
I had high temps with my x6 system until I put the side panel (with an 800 RPM fan) back on. This kept the chipset cool and somehow lowered my cpu temps nearly 10 degrees (at a lower cpu fan speed) over having an open case. This is with a relatively tiny Arctic Cooling Freezer64, running prime95 on all 6 cores for 8 hours. My fan speeds never exceed 1100 RPM when the room is hot, and when the room temps are around 70F they barely even raise above idle.

I think your slipstreams should be plenty of fan for that cpu if they're running at full speed and the rest of the case airflow is up to snuff. I'd recheck the heatsink mounting, and also ensure the base of the heatsink matches the flatness of the heatspreader, and lap if needed.
 
Leave rear fan as exhaust, not intake as the one guy with a picture suggested. Rear fan as intake will pull in hot air from behind the case (many graphics cards exhaust at least partially out the PCI/PCIe slots). Generally do front and bottom as intake, rear and top as exhaust. This is assuming a rear mounted PSU (not an odd layout like the Lian Li A05B/A05N).
 
change of mind, I'm planning on push pull for cpu with 2 of the 140mm Kaze Maru 500rpm as these I have at home.

should I see temperature decrease compared to the 1200 rpm fan?

The slipstream and Kaze Maru, which is just like a 140mm slipstream are both not great choices for HS's where pressure comes into play, they do great as case fans though. If I were you I would stick with GT's for the HS at least and fit the Kaze Maru you have on the top of the case, as the GT fans are great for HS's.
 
change of mind, I'm planning on push pull for cpu with 2 of the 140mm Kaze Maru 500rpm as these I have at home.

should I see temperature decrease compared to the 1200 rpm fan?

I don't think those fans are going to have enough static pressure to work effectively on that thick cooler. Those are better used as case fans.

Damn, what BlueFireIce said.
 
I was able to make the cpu 56.63c peak and stable 30min OCCT, it however crashes after 38min of OCCT.

What I did was went to bios changed Q-Fan from optimal to performance for cpu(slip stream 1200rpm) and case fans(2 typhoons). Now Slip stream is 1000-1200rpm and 2 typhoon are 705-945 and 705-975rpm.

I'm not able to get displayport from the big bottom saphire 5850, som I'm considering installing a slim slip stream and put the small Asus 5850 on bottom to get digital displayport. it is tight however for the saphire might not get enough airflow because of fan and space.
 
Last edited:
I have put push pull 1200rpm slip stream, still can't do 1.42v 18.5x200 the temperature reaches 63c in Dirt 2.

I guess remounting cooler is last resort :(


 
Last edited:
OCCT 20 min gives 58c peak, crashes past 20min.

Playing Dirt 2 at 5760*1080 for 45min gave cpu 61c peak, top 5850gpu 75c peak 52% fan speed.

I have possibility to install 2 top fans approx where the red dots are.

the red dot at GPU is really not able to install as cooler is in way, however I have removed the 140mm plate at door next to gpu for better airflow.

I have indeed cable managed the case but forgot take picture.

DSC03188kopiera2.jpg


2011-01-31-18h01-CPU1.png


CPU overclock: 200*18.5, 1.40v.

What the others have said is good info, especially about replacing the fans with better units, but I'd also add the following:

I added a bit of home made ducting to my CPU cooling to ensure the fan is blowing only through the CPU Cooler and then exiting out the back of the case.

You can do that with cardboard, as a mock up, then make the final version out of aluminum flashing --- like the material used on roofing (it's 1/16th of an inch thick and very easy to bend.)

Once you create the ducting in the right shape, you can secure it together with Metal tape, and secure it to the side cover so that, whenever the side is installed, the ducting routes the cooling air more efficiently.
 
You really need to do some wire management. Route as many wires as you can behind the motherboard tray or stuff them in an empty 5.25" drive bay. The fewer wires you have hanging around inside your case means air can move around better.

Add some fans to the top as well. Even low RPM silent fans will help pull out heat as it rises through the case.
 
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