Plasma vs. LCD

[SJetski71]

Quick question about cables:

I spoke with someone over the weekend who has several years (20-30) in audio/video and has his degree in such as well. He tells me it's worth using ISF 1.38 certified cables. Says Monster has them and it's worth the money and difference you will see/hear.

Are these other cables at Monoprice comparable or is the thought that it doesn't matter that much. This fellas argument was you knew what you were getting. That the certification made it clear as it was a standard. That you're cables wouldn't crap out on you and that they were sure to handle all the signals and speed required.

I think that's what us laymen refer to as "building the cable to spec" and is only brought up when someone has a problem with their super-cheap or defective cables. Longer cable lengths tend to make these problems worse. These problems are also rare from what i read, and nothing for you to worry about since you found some great prices on those monster cables at accessories4less. I'd bet that most of monoprice's cables are built to spec as well, can't say for sure though.

 

[DDR4040]

Quick question about cables:

I spoke with someone over the weekend who has several years (20-30) in audio/video and has his degree in such as well. He tells me it's worth using ISF 1.38 certified cables. Says Monster has them and it's worth the money and difference you will see/hear.

.

I think you may have misheard your friend. I have never seen anything referred to as "1.38 certified" cables. What he may have been suggesting was to get the 1.3B spec HDMI cables. They really don't sell for much of a premium over 1.3a cables, so it's probably pretty good advice. They definitely come in handy if you are using HDMI CEC to allow your components to talk to each other.

And nothing personal against your friend, but anyone who recommends buying anything from monster cable is a bit suspect in my book, no matter how many years they have in the business. The cables themselves are alright. Not the world's greatest, but not total crap either. The main problem with them is they are usually horrendously overpriced. Gouging people $100 for a 6foot HDMI cable that can be purchased for under $10 at monoprice is pretty much the norm with them. Do yourself a favor and google "Monster cables lawsuits" to get an idea what kind of people run this company. They don't deserve a penny of your money.

 

[SBMongoos]

I think you may have misheard your friend. I have never seen anything referred to as "1.38 certified" cables. What he may have been suggesting was to get the 1.3B spec HDMI cables. They really don't sell for much of a premium over 1.3a cables, so it's probably pretty good advice. They definitely come in handy if you are using HDMI CEC to allow your components to talk to each other.

And nothing personal against your friend, but anyone who recommends buying anything from monster cable is a bit suspect in my book, no matter how many years they have in the business. The cables themselves are alright. Not the world's greatest, but not total crap either. The main problem with them is they are usually horrendously overpriced. Gouging people $100 for a 6foot HDMI cable that can be purchased for under $10 at monoprice is pretty much the norm with them. Do yourself a favor and google "Monster cables lawsuits" to get an idea what kind of people run this company. They don't deserve a penny of your money.

Do you recommend Monoprice?

As for the guy I met. No, that's what he said as I clarified. Maybe it's a memory issue who knows as he really seemed to have good intentions. Who knows. I think the main reason he referred to Monster is that he stated Monster set the standards and has specifications. According to him.

 

[slugl1fe]

just fyi.. got my panasonic g15 50in today (ordered g10 but amazon vendor was out of stock after order was submitted.. gave me free upgrade to g15), and i must say: WOW.

i got a little worried when i was at frys yesterday and saw some of the LCDs next to Plasmas... I know, i know, LCDs look better in the brighter showrooms etc.... but I was still a bit worried.

Today I received my plasma and I freaking love it. Last week I had been playing Wipeout Hd (ps3) on my 24in benq fp241w at 1080p (a great computer LCD monitor) and the difference (other than the obvious size) is incredible.

The plasma's colors are so rich and deep vs. the LCD, and the motion just seems so much smoother. I made the right call. Anyone on the fence... time to climb on down.

Fyi.. I will be using my plasma for gaming, bluray, and sports, in probably equal amounts.

 

[SBMongoos]

just fyi.. got my panasonic g15 50in today (ordered g10 but amazon vendor was out of stock after order was submitted.. gave me free upgrade to g15), and i must say: WOW.

i got a little worried when i was at frys yesterday and saw some of the LCDs next to Plasmas... I know, i know, LCDs look better in the brighter showrooms etc.... but I was still a bit worried.

Today I received my plasma and I freaking love it. Last week I had been playing Wipeout Hd (ps3) on my 24in benq fp241w at 1080p (a great computer LCD monitor) and the difference (other than the obvious size) is incredible.

The plasma's colors are so rich and deep vs. the LCD, and the motion just seems so much smoother. I made the right call. Anyone on the fence... time to climb on down.

Fyi.. I will be using my plasma for gaming, bluray, and sports, in probably equal amounts.

Nice bump from the G10 to the G15! Sweet!

 

[DDR4040]

Do you recommend Monoprice?

As for the guy I met. No, that's what he said as I clarified. Maybe it's a memory issue who knows as he really seemed to have good intentions. Who knows. I think the main reason he referred to Monster is that he stated Monster set the standards and has specifications. According to him.

Monoprice is the best. I haven't bought cables anywhere else in at least 5 years. They just do everything right. The website is clean, simple and easy to navigate. They don't play games with shipping and send out tracking numbers incredibly fast. I have never had any type of issue with the quality or performance of any of their cables, and I have probably spent at least $250 with them over the years. Give them a shot, you will not regret it.

 

[SBMongoos]

Monoprice is the best. I haven't bought cables anywhere else in at least 5 years. They just do everything right. The website is clean, simple and easy to navigate. They don't play games with shipping and send out tracking numbers incredibly fast. I have never had any type of issue with the quality or performance of any of their cables, and I have probably spent at least $250 with them over the years. Give them a shot, you will not regret it.

Cool. At a glance the prices look very cheap.

 

[SJetski71]

Cool. At a glance the prices look very cheap.

Meant to say it earlier, but literally most of us have been using monoprice for years. You're the first person i've seen in a while who hasn't heard of them

 

[SBMongoos]

Meant to say it earlier, but literally most of us have been using monoprice for years. You're the first person i've seen in a while who hasn't heard of them

LOL. I probably picked up some time ago but it didn't apply to me at the time. I've been around this forum for a long time. Either way it's good and I appreciate the heads up!

 

[Tbird87]

Monoprice ftw. Super cheap HDMI cables, they even have different colors you can get. I definitely recommend them. I've been ordering a few here and there for friends and family, also use them for myself when I hook my PS3 up to my monitor. Had no problems with them, and they are pretty well made especially for the price.

When I first found monoprice, I was tempted to buy cables I didn't need just because everything was so cheap

 

[SBMongoos]

Monoprice ftw. Super cheap HDMI cables, they even have different colors you can get. I definitely recommend them. I've been ordering a few here and there for friends and family, also use them for myself when I hook my PS3 up to my monitor. Had no problems with them, and they are pretty well made especially for the price.

When I first found monoprice, I was tempted to buy cables I didn't need just because everything was so cheap

Exactly. That's why I was hesitating. What do you get for your money. Either there is no need to build a cable as other brands do or is this place getting their materials super cheap or what.

 

[SBMongoos]

1. So the only way to get true 1080P is to use HDMI cables?
2. If I use anything else at all the best I can get is 1080i? (My recv'r does not have HDMI)
3. Apparently if I want 1080P from my Blu-ray I'd need to run an HDMI cable from the Blu-ray to the TV then an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. But would I lose something in quality using the optical connection from the optical audio out on the TV to the receiver? Say 5.1?
4. Also, it seems to me that it makes sense to run video cables from the source (DVD or Blu-ray for example) directly to the plasma and not route it through the AV receiver.

Sorry if I may be repeating a question. I'm self employed and trying to balance this with what I do. I may have forgot.

 

[SBMongoos]

Definitely do, we'll be able to tell if they're decent or not, and if you're getting fleeced.

Or if you want to save time you can straight up buy them from monoprice, unless you're now starved for cash you should checkout their "premium" RG6 component cables first.

Their support at Monoprice says the cables are the same but the thickness and nylon casing for friction: "no there is no difference performance only the net jacket which helps with strain on the cable and is abbrasion resistant if the cable is moved a lot " So the price is very close and not a concern but I don't see the point in buying the premium cables.

I'm going with your advice on using HDMI between the Blu-ray and TV and then optical out to the receiver. I understand that you actually do lose something in this process (like 5.1 and not higher using optical) but I'm only setup for 5.1 now anyway. I'm not aware that I would lose anything else but I don't know. ??

About to order (is there any degradation by going to longer cables if I think I may need them in the future?):

• Blu-ray to plasma: 4' HDMI cable (High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified Cable 28AWG - 5ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold Plated Connectors) - BLACK) - $3.40
• Plasma to Marantz SV-7300 recv'r: PREMIUM 3FT Optical Toslink Cable w/ Metal Fancy Connector - $3.98 OR 3FT Optical Toslink Cable -$1.61
• Marantz DV4300 DVD to SV4300: PREMIUM 6FT 5-RCA Component Video/Audio Coaxial RG-6 18AWG 75Ohm CL2 Rated Cable - $14.88 OR 6Ft 3-RCA Component Video Cable (RG-59/u) - $2.38

Not even sure if I should bother with the DVD. Looks like this unit stops at 480P so maybe I should just stick with the RCA cables that came with this unit and use them as component hookups to the plasma. ?? Already using digital coax from the DVD to the receiver for audio.

Lastly. Is there anyway to get this plasma to go through channels quicker? When surfing it seems slow to me.

 

[Nenu]

1. So the only way to get true 1080P is to use HDMI cables?
2. If I use anything else at all the best I can get is 1080i? (My recv'r does not have HDMI)
3. Apparently if I want 1080P from my Blu-ray I'd need to run an HDMI cable from the Blu-ray to the TV then an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. But would I lose something in quality using the optical connection from the optical audio out on the TV to the receiver? Say 5.1?
4. Also, it seems to me that it makes sense to run video cables from the source (DVD or Blu-ray for example) directly to the plasma and not route it through the AV receiver.

Sorry if I may be repeating a question. I'm self employed and trying to balance this with what I do. I may have forgot.

1) HDMI, DVI, Display port, Component, VGA on some TVs can do 1080p ...
Composite cannot do 1080p.
2) Sat Receivers are not 1080p, they are 1080i max due to transmissions being 1080i max. Hifi Receivers either pass signals or convert them, check the specs.
3) You lose quality only if you can make use of hi def audio, with no HDMI in on your amp, you cannot use hi def audio. So optical is the best you can use.
4) up to you but as you dont have a HDMI amp, you cant switch HDMI video anyway.
Analogue video switching reduces picture quality a little.

 

[PynkFloydd]

I opted for the S model since I could get the features I wanted to play with (IPTV) through the Blu-ray. When I checked Buydig.com all I could find was that once you open the box it's yours and you cannot return and have to deal with the manufacturer. So I started looking some more. I didn't see any glaring picture difference between the S and the G in a local store. But not sure it was fair as your in a bright store, the TVs are sharing signals and I think the S model had been professionally calibrated. If I remember correctly.

I'm all setup at this end now. Just need a few cables. It looks like if I want the sound from the TV to play through my AV receiver I can only use an optical cable. Am also considering a small stand to put the TV on so I can put my center channel in front of it. Not sure what else to do with it based on my setup.

You have the link for the calibration settings at the AVS Forum?

From my understanding, all of the Panasonics all the way from the S1 up to the Z1 use the same new panel. THX calibration is probably the biggest upgrade on the G series but, when you flip it on...it's really, really dim.

Monoprice is a great place like others have said. Especially nowadays, there's not much worry with signal degredation with digital cables (like optical and HDMI).

If you're feeling really daring, you can enter the service menu of your TV and use the calibration settings that others have posted on AVS. ...don't have a specific thread post for the S1 but, I'm sure if you use their search engine you'll find tons. Here's a good thread to look in too:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1128487&highlight=panasonic+12g

1. So the only way to get true 1080P is to use HDMI cables?
2. If I use anything else at all the best I can get is 1080i? (My recv'r does not have HDMI)
3. Apparently if I want 1080P from my Blu-ray I'd need to run an HDMI cable from the Blu-ray to the TV then an optical cable from the TV to the receiver. But would I lose something in quality using the optical connection from the optical audio out on the TV to the receiver? Say 5.1?
4. Also, it seems to me that it makes sense to run video cables from the source (DVD or Blu-ray for example) directly to the plasma and not route it through the AV receiver.

Sorry if I may be repeating a question. I'm self employed and trying to balance this with what I do. I may have forgot.

I haven't used component cables since getting into 1080p. I can't remember but, you might want to double-check the manual...Panasonic might limit 1080p with component because it doesn't transmit copy protection. I thought I remember seeing something about it when paging through the manual.

HDMI is definitely your best input. It's ok if your receiver doesn't have HDMI. Connect the HDMI to the TV from the Blu-Ray player and the optical from the Blu-Ray player to the receiver. The optical out from the TV is only for regular TV/cable programming coming form the internal tuner.

 

[McG2k1]

I have a plasma Panasonic PZ4280B and I love it. It does get noticeably warm. My two year old loves to stand close to it because it's like a warm blanket.

Not to broil the burn in issue, there is no burn in, however this is some short term image retention. i've come home and found the TV paused on a random Noggin show and their logo will linger for a few minutes but it's certainly never been anything close to an issue.

I got a better than LCD deal on the TV so I'm completely happy. I wouldn't sweat the power consumption issue.

 

[Daemas]

I have a plasma Panasonic PZ4280B and I love it. It does get noticeably warm. My two year old loves to stand close to it because it's like a warm blanket.

Not to broil the burn in issue, there is no burn in, however this is some short term image retention. i've come home and found the TV paused on a random Noggin show and their logo will linger for a few minutes but it's certainly never been anything close to an issue.

I got a better than LCD deal on the TV so I'm completely happy. I wouldn't sweat the power consumption issue.

I've noticed the same from my Panasonic TH-42PZ700U that I bought about a year and a half ago. With mine, I always try to see how long I can notice the image retention, but by the time I change channels or inputs, it's already gone. Seems like a quick flash of some vastly different color fixes it right away. If my 2007 model doesn't burn in, I'm sure none of them do nowadays.

 

[SBMongoos]

I see on this S model I just bought there is a Pixel Orbiter function that apparently deals with the "image retention". Looks like it's that function where that big fat white vertical bar goes back and forth across your screen. Does this sound right? Looked and sound to me like that's what this was for.

 

[SBMongoos]

From my understanding, all of the Panasonics all the way from the S1 up to the Z1 use the same new panel. THX calibration is probably the biggest upgrade on the G series but, when you flip it on...it's really, really dim.

Monoprice is a great place like others have said. Especially nowadays, there's not much worry with signal degredation with digital cables (like optical and HDMI).

If you're feeling really daring, you can enter the service menu of your TV and use the calibration settings that others have posted on AVS. ...don't have a specific thread post for the S1 but, I'm sure if you use their search engine you'll find tons. Here's a good thread to look in too:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1128487&highlight=panasonic+12g





I haven't used component cables since getting into 1080p. I can't remember but, you might want to double-check the manual...Panasonic might limit 1080p with component because it doesn't transmit copy protection. I thought I remember seeing something about it when paging through the manual.

HDMI is definitely your best input. It's ok if your receiver doesn't have HDMI. Connect the HDMI to the TV from the Blu-Ray player and the optical from the Blu-Ray player to the receiver. The optical out from the TV is only for regular TV/cable programming coming form the internal tuner.

The cables at Monoprice are definitely attractive. But I'm wondering if I should bother getting a component cable for my DV4300 which seems to max out at 480P. I'm using the RCA cables that came with it on the component connections between it and the plasma. I'm wondering if it's worth bothering with the component cable at Monoprice or not. They're cheap enough but if it doesn't have any impact why bother. Likely I will use the Blu-ray instead from now on. But I'm cool with making an improvement that might come in handy if it's worthwhile.

 

[SBMongoos]

All of those cables in that PDF that are under $10 are perfectly fine. The slightly higher priced ones are probably overkill, especially that $30 spdif cable (the $3 ones work fine )

As for which digital cable to use, RCA spdif or optical spdif, it really doesn't matter as long as you have either port on the back of your cable box and the back of your receiver. Receiver's tend to have more optical spdif inputs, and some cable boxes may not have RCA spdif inputs. So maybe visually doublecheck your equipment before buying. The more common one to use is optical spdif.

Not sure I'm completely clear on spdif as it's been a while since I've worked with these cables. What about these (first number being the "ID#" at monopice.com - but you probably already knew that):

2763 PREMIUM 3FT Optical Toslink Cable w/ Metal Fancy Connector (Plasma to Recv'r)

4957 High Speed HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified Cable 28AWG - 5ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold Plated Connectors) - BLACK (Blu-ray to Plasma)

2769 PREMIUM 6FT 3-RCA Component Video Coaxial RG-6 18AWG 75Ohm CL2 Rated Cable (DVD to Recv'r)

Non premium does show some saving but mostly on the component cable. Might be worth dropping to the standard cable on this connection as that DVD does 480P max and I probably won't be using that much with the Blu-ray installed.

 

[PynkFloydd]

The cables at Monoprice are definitely attractive. But I'm wondering if I should bother getting a component cable for my DV4300 which seems to max out at 480P. I'm using the RCA cables that came with it on the component connections between it and the plasma. I'm wondering if it's worth bothering with the component cable at Monoprice or not. They're cheap enough but if it doesn't have any impact why bother. Likely I will use the Blu-ray instead from now on. But I'm cool with making an improvement that might come in handy if it's worthwhile.

You'll probably notice better picture quality with a DVD using the Blu-Ray player. If you go from the RCA (with the DVD player) to HDMI (with the Blu-Ray player) you should definitely notice a difference. ...I'm assuming you're using the DMP-BD60 you got with the $200 off deal?

Also, if you turn on Viera Link both on the BD player and the TV it does some really cool stuff. This requires HDMI be used though. You'll only need to use one remote and when you pop in a movie, it'll flip to the right input and even turn off the TV when you're and turn off the BD player.

 

[SBMongoos]

You'll probably notice better picture quality with a DVD using the Blu-Ray player. If you go from the RCA (with the DVD player) to HDMI (with the Blu-Ray player) you should definitely notice a difference. ...I'm assuming you're using the DMP-BD60 you got with the $200 off deal?

Also, if you turn on Viera Link both on the BD player and the TV it does some really cool stuff. This requires HDMI be used though. You'll only need to use one remote and when you pop in a movie, it'll flip to the right input and even turn off the TV when you're and turn off the BD player.

Ya, very cool and I'm looking forward to that (VieraCast). I'm using a Harmony remote so all should work well. I don't see a conflict with VieraLink (HDAVI Control) and the Harmony. We'll see. So far so good and I've added several controls to the Harmony for the new equipment.

As for the DVD player I'll spend the extra $ and get the component. This way IF I ever use it I will be sure to get the 480P vs. the (apparent) 480i with composite (RCA). I'm guessing it's going to collect dust.

As this point I'm just curious if anyone has compared Monoprice.com's standard cables to their premium cables. Are they worth it and have they actually seen the difference?

I have a lot of people coming to me for tech support. If this place is as good as people are saying, and with these prices, I'm more than happy to refer them on.

 

[BallerX]

being the owner of two 42" LCDs, one with 24Hz mode and one 120Hz, I can tell you that I missed the boat on plasma sets. Now that they are competitive they just aren't enough better for me to be worried about the problems that they have. People say they don't burn in anymore. I call bs. I can't tell you how many times I have seen burns on top, the sides, news and sports logos,... etc. I could manage one but I would have to become a TV Nazi and my wife would not like that. She hates stretching images and so do I really. LCD is a better fit for my family. If I where single, I would own a Kuro probably.

 

[SBMongoos]

being the owner of two 42" LCDs, one with 24Hz mode and one 120Hz, I can tell you that I missed the boat on plasma sets. Now that they are competitive they just aren't enough better for me to be worried about the problems that they have. People say they don't burn in anymore. I call bs. I can't tell you how many times I have seen burns on top, the sides, news and sports logos,... etc. I could manage one but I would have to become a TV Nazi and my wife would not like that. She hates stretching images and so do I really. LCD is a better fit for my family. If I where single, I would own a Kuro probably.

So your experience that you see burn and it's an issue and that it's an ongoing issue to manage? Just getting clear here.

 

[PynkFloydd]

As this point I'm just curious if anyone has compared Monoprice.com's standard cables to their premium cables. Are they worth it and have they actually seen the difference?

I have a lot of people coming to me for tech support. If this place is as good as people are saying, and with these prices, I'm more than happy to refer them on.

I've had some pretty high end component cables from Audioquest and also tried Monster Cable's THX certified line. I got them on eBay for a great price so value wasn't an issue. I had the highest end Audioquest cables and I really couldn't tell a difference between those and the cheapest line. The major difference was the better ones looked nicer but, other than that there was nothing. I was only running 3 and 6 meter cables so maybe a longer run would make a difference but, I wouldn't justify spending the extra cash again. By the way, since everyone is moving to HDMI...you might be able to snag some fancy component cables for dirt cheap on eBay.

I think HDMI makes even less of a difference becase it's a digital signal. You're not really relying on the strength (of the signal) like traditional RCAs. It's like digital TV...either there's a signal or you get nothing whereas analog you just got a crappy signal. The major thing to look at with HDMI cables is the certification. If it's got the stamp of approval on the cable then it's capable of carrying the full signal. I guess the best comparison of an HDMI cable is to USB cables. Actually with the more expensive cables, they're just more bulky and even the thicker ones from Monoprice (with the sheath) are a pain to use. The thick cables aren't too bendable and especially in tight areas, might not stay in the HDMI port like they should. Pretty much, if you have a bad cable...it'll tell you. You'll probably have handshake issues (HDCP isn't too friendly) or just no picture.

Something I'll also tell you to look out for with HDMI cables: Don't plug them into ports by just jamming the plug in without looking. I'm getting real lucky with higher end receivers on eBay that are getting sold AS-IS because the HDMI ports are ruined. It's not too common but, the contacts are really thin and can be brittle. ...they're literally paper thin. If the end of the plug catches a pin, it can ruin a port. So, never force an HDMI cable in!

 

[SBMongoos]

Something I'll also tell you to look out for with HDMI cables: Don't plug them into ports by just jamming the plug in without looking. I'm getting real lucky with higher end receivers on eBay that are getting sold AS-IS because the HDMI ports are ruined. It's not too common but, the contacts are really thin and can be brittle. ...they're literally paper thin. If the end of the plug catches a pin, it can ruin a port. So, never force an HDMI cable in!

Interesting. Reminds me of those lousy SATA connectors on motherboards in the earlier stages of SATA. They sucked.

 

[Nenu]

...
I think HDMI makes even less of a difference becase it's a digital signal.
...

Good post.
its worth noting that HDMI audio can be worse than analogue if the DAC in your amp is not as good as the DAC on the soundcard.
I'm using analogue with an Auzentech Prelude and Onkyo 875 amp for this reason.
Its not that the amps DACs are bad, the soundcard DACs are very good.

 

[SBMongoos]

Good post.
its worth noting that HDMI audio can be worse than analogue if the DAC in your amp is not as good as the DAC on the soundcard.
I'm using analogue with an Auzentech Prelude and Onkyo 875 amp for this reason.
Its not that the amps DACs are bad, the soundcard DACs are very good.

Hmm.. okay help me here. The only place I'm using HDMI is between the Panasonic Plasma and the Panasonic Blu-ray. Then optical audio out from the Plasma to the Marantz SV-7300. Not currently but will be shortly. The SV-7300 is pre-HDMI. So it sounds like the issue you're talking about won't be a problem for me. Correct.

 

[Nenu]

To get the best sound quality, you will need to test to see what "you" prefer as there may be other factors than sound quality that matter to you.
Tech specs can only get you so far, there is an inconvenience using analogue (direct mode on the amp for less latency) because your amps tone controls etc wont work on analogue direct.
However, a PCs sound card itself should have all the controls you need in place for a computer but when feeding analogue directly from the Blu Ray player, you may not have the adjustments you need.
If you dont have the adjustments you need via analogue, you will need to use HDMI or SPDIF/optical.

As you are still using a digital audio connection with optical, you are still using your amplifiers DAC, so my last post about quality applies equally to any optical/SPDIF connection.
You must connect it correctly though...

I need to address how you are connecting up your equipment
By taking an optical feed from the TV to your amplifier, you are most likely not getting any higher than stereo.
If the TV can cope with forwarding 5.1 (I doubt this), there will be an extra delay introduced as the sound will undergo some processing from HDMI to optical before it leaves the TV. There may also be a change in sound quality.

If you want to use digital:
a) with an HDMI amp, feed the Blu Ray audio+video directly to the amp via HDMI and then feed HDMI video from the amp to your TV.
b) without an HDMI amp, feed audio directly from the Blu Ray player (or any source) to your amplifier, do NOT route sound through the TV.

The analogue / digital comparison you need to do is between analogue and digital out from the "Blu Ray player", nothing from the TV.
Analogue out will use the Blu Ray players DAC.
Digital out will use the amps DAC but make sure that the amp is receiving 5.1 not stereo (from 5.1 sources).

If anything is unclear, please ask, its hard to get all the info presented in a short post.

 

[grendel19]

being the owner of two 42" LCDs, one with 24Hz mode and one 120Hz, I can tell you that I missed the boat on plasma sets. Now that they are competitive they just aren't enough better for me to be worried about the problems that they have. People say they don't burn in anymore. I call bs. I can't tell you how many times I have seen burns on top, the sides, news and sports logos,... etc. I could manage one but I would have to become a TV Nazi and my wife would not like that. She hates stretching images and so do I really. LCD is a better fit for my family. If I where single, I would own a Kuro probably.

The only time that you may want to "manage" potential burn in would be the first 100-200 hours of the plasma's life. That is what I did when I purchased mine two years ago. Oftentimes I would play a dvd overnight that simply displayed a full screen of color which rotates every 30 sec or so.

Beyond that, I don't think burn in is an issue at all. I still get image retention, but that fades away fairly quickly.

Burn in really is a non-issue. Unless one is just absolutely careless about it.

 

[SBMongoos]

To get the best sound quality, you will need to test to see what "you" prefer as there may be other factors than sound quality that matter to you.
Tech specs can only get you so far, there is an inconvenience using analogue (direct mode on the amp for less latency) because your amps tone controls etc wont work on analogue direct.
However, a PCs sound card itself should have all the controls you need in place for a computer but when feeding analogue directly from the Blu Ray player, you may not have the adjustments you need.
If you dont have the adjustments you need via analogue, you will need to use HDMI or SPDIF/optical.

As you are still using a digital audio connection with optical, you are still using your amplifiers DAC, so my last post about quality applies equally to any optical/SPDIF connection.
You must connect it correctly though...

I need to address how you are connecting up your equipment
By taking an optical feed from the TV to your amplifier, you are most likely not getting any higher than stereo.
If the TV can cope with forwarding 5.1 (I doubt this), there will be an extra delay introduced as the sound will undergo some processing from HDMI to optical before it leaves the TV. There may also be a change in sound quality.

If you want to use digital:
a) with an HDMI amp, feed the Blu Ray audio+video directly to the amp via HDMI and then feed HDMI video from the amp to your TV.
b) without an HDMI amp, feed audio directly from the Blu Ray player (or any source) to your amplifier, do NOT route sound through the TV.

The analogue / digital comparison you need to do is between analogue and digital out from the "Blu Ray player", nothing from the TV.
Analogue out will use the Blu Ray players DAC.
Digital out will use the amps DAC but make sure that the amp is receiving 5.1 not stereo (from 5.1 sources).

If anything is unclear, please ask, its hard to get all the info presented in a short post.

I assume you were responding to me.

I've been approached in this thread by at least a couple of others that recommended HDMI from Blu-ray to TV and then optical from TV to AV Recv'r. I will try this and see what happens as I already ordered the cables from Monoprice.com and they should arrive today. The main reason for the optical to the AV Recv'r is so I am able to watch TV and listen in stereo (or whatever the network is broadcasting). So perhaps a good movie or a game on TV. I'll keep this in mind when watching a DVD on the Blu-ray to see what happens with sound. I was told here that 5.1 would come through from the TV to the AV Recv'r and I assume that was at least the route of Blu-ray -> TV -> AV Recv'r and I would have assumed TV - AV Recv'r also (also a tech at Monoprice.com said it would work like this). Not sure about the possible delay issue but will certainly listen for it. On the BD60 (Panasonic Blu-ray) I'd have to use optical for digital out as that is the only digital source - digital coax starts on the BD80. So if I find that I'm missing out on 5.1 or there is a delay I'd then need to buy another cable. So then I'd use HDMI to the TV for the 1080P and optical from the Blu-ray to the AV Rec'vr for 5.1 or better.

 

[SBMongoos]

Is it highly recommended to use images or video to go through a initialization faze? I've been reading about the jpegs, etc., you can download onto a SD or DVD and then play them for something like 100 or more hours. What does this do exactly and is it worth it?

 

[Blk02]

I have a 60" Pioneer Elite plasma and I did not do any specific breakin I just started using it and I was careful to make sure all programming filled the screen. The breakin procedure just helps to accelerate the aging of the phosphurs so they even out and maintain a constant color/brightness level. This allows you to ISF calibrate your TV much sooner than just using the TV normally until the phosphurs even out. After seeing two of my friends run the breakin procedure on their Elites and end up with stuck/dead pixels I made the personal decision not to do the procedure. I have been running fine now for six months. The 60" plasma draws around 275-375 watts during normal usage (no energy saver turned on) through Kill-A-Watt. The 60" has a spec of 500 watts, but as with all electronics the actual usage is much lower. After owning a Samsung LCD for several years I will never go back to LCD after owning this plasma, period.

 

[Nenu]

Yeah, its unlikely you will get 5.1 passed through the TV.
The reason being that TV tuners have no need for more than stereo, as TV surround sound is encoded in the stereo stream and is decoded by the AV amplifier.
As far as I am aware, television transmissions dont have AC3 5.1 audio streams which is a full 6 channels and is much higher quality.
High Definition satellite channels use AC3/Dolby Digital.

Maybe it will work, you never know your luck.
If not, take a digital feed from the TV into the amp and change the amps input to get TV audio.
ie think of the TV tuner like a separate tuner/satellite box.


If there is any audio processing and not a (mostly) direct connection from HDMI audio to optical/SPDIF, then its possible there will be a noticeable slight delay, hopefully it wont be a problem.

During the break in period, dont set the TV to the full brightness (contrast) you intend to use.
ie reduce the contrast a bit.
Avoid watching any 4:3 material, full screen only.
Be sure to turn overscan ON with TV so the screen edges are fully used during the break in.
Dont leave any static image on screen for more than a minute (just a safe time, longer may be fine if it is followed by lots of video).
There may be a few other things to be careful of, I'm sure others will help if so.

During my break in period, I used my PC quite a lot.
To prevent any problems, I used a very very low contrast setting and it has been just fine, now 1.5 years later.
I treated the break in period as 1000hrs as I knew I was going to be displaying static images a lot, this may not be necessary for you.

The burn in DVDs are so you can get the TV through the burn in period faster.

 

[NemesisBLK]

@SBMongoos
I'm currently going through a break-in period myself atm. I am using the images that are provided at www.eaprogramming.com (I'm assuming that is the DVD and jpeg images you are speaking of.) I don't recall anyone at AVS mentioning using movies in place of the jpegs, but maybe I skipped those posts/threads. I just uploaded the jpegs to a SD card and pop it in my 42G10. Recommended break-in settings for Panasonic 12G plasmas are here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=16013999&postcount=1

 

[JohnDC]

Yeah, its unlikely you will get 5.1 passed through the TV.
The reason being that TV tuners have no need for more than stereo, as TV surround sound is encoded in the stereo stream and is decoded by the AV amplifier.
As far as I am aware, television transmissions dont have AC3 5.1 audio streams which is a full 6 channels and is much higher quality.
High Definition satellite channels use AC3/Dolby Digital.

HD Over-the-air and cable is generally Dolby Digital 5.1, although there are some exceptions, such as my local NBC station, which is only Stereo/Dolby Pro Logic.
And most TV's will pass Dolby Digital 5.1 from the optical/coax digital out, but ONLY programming from the internal tuner, generally not from HDMI or other input source to the TV. There are a few exceptions, LG, I believe has some sets that will send the 5.1 stream.

 

[Nenu]

HD Over-the-air and cable is generally Dolby Digital 5.1, although there are some exceptions, such as my local NBC station, which is only Stereo/Dolby Pro Logic.
And most TV's will pass Dolby Digital 5.1 from the optical/coax digital out, but ONLY programming from the internal tuner, generally not from HDMI or other input source to the TV. There are a few exceptions, LG, I believe has some sets that will send the 5.1 stream.

Ah we only get HD on satellite or cable in the UK.
Freeview HD (transmitted over air) doesnt start rolling out in the UK until late this year so there hasnt been a need for HD 5.1 TV tuners here yet.

 

[SBMongoos]

Yeah, its unlikely you will get 5.1 passed through the TV.
The reason being that TV tuners have no need for more than stereo, as TV surround sound is encoded in the stereo stream and is decoded by the AV amplifier.
As far as I am aware, television transmissions dont have AC3 5.1 audio streams which is a full 6 channels and is much higher quality.
High Definition satellite channels use AC3/Dolby Digital.

Maybe it will work, you never know your luck.
If not, take a digital feed from the TV into the amp and change the amps input to get TV audio.
ie think of the TV tuner like a separate tuner/satellite box.


If there is any audio processing and not a (mostly) direct connection from HDMI audio to optical/SPDIF, then its possible there will be a noticeable slight delay, hopefully it wont be a problem.

During the break in period, dont set the TV to the full brightness (contrast) you intend to use.
ie reduce the contrast a bit.
Avoid watching any 4:3 material, full screen only.
Be sure to turn overscan ON with TV so the screen edges are fully used during the break in.
Dont leave any static image on screen for more than a minute (just a safe time, longer may be fine if it is followed by lots of video).
There may be a few other things to be careful of, I'm sure others will help if so.

During my break in period, I used my PC quite a lot.
To prevent any problems, I used a very very low contrast setting and it has been just fine, now 1.5 years later.
I treated the break in period as 1000hrs as I knew I was going to be displaying static images a lot, this may not be necessary for you.

The burn in DVDs are so you can get the TV through the burn in period faster.

Audio: I think I'm good using the optical back to the AV Recv'r. No delay in audio. I can check it with the Recv'r audio and TV audio both running and they're in sync. Using a Harmony remote I can tweak it to send a mute to the Panny TV so I only get Recv'r audio. Looks like 5.1 is not a problem either. Checked it on a few TV channels, You Tube and AOD (Amazon on Demand). Looks like I'm good.

Where do I ind the overscan. Sounds familiar from when I first setup the TV and was playing with it. Occasional 4:3 but not often and and typically very brief for an ad.

 

[SBMongoos]

The Monoprice cables seem good. The connectors, on opening the packages, seem lose and you have to tighten them. No biggie but do they tend to unscrew themselves with movement? I do like they way Monster has the turbine tips where the slits are at an angle and the grip the connecting points better. Not sure this is a big thing but would have been handy with the Monoprice 75ohm cables being rigid as they are. The premium component cables look to be made of the 75ohm cable and are not too flexible (as I think the coaxial digital audio cable). Easy for the connectors to be forced off the back of the equipment since the cables are so rigid.

 

[SBMongoos]

disregard