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Planning water cooling system, need help

C

Chilly

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,031
Ok, heres what I got so far, I'm gonna have a 2 loop system in my system, by 2 loop I mean one loop dedicated to cpu and misc and 1 dedicated to GPU/GPU's (depending on weither I can afford 2 cards CF or SLi haven't decided witch to go with) what I need to know whats the point of resoviours and where should I put them after the loop (after gpu's and etc) or right after the radiator(before GPU's and etc) and second of all do you think I could use a TEC safely in this type of a setup on the gpu's (and perhaps the CPU) mind you the radiators will be a dual 80MM with 4 80-CFM tornados on each radiator (2 radators, 1 for each loop) (don't worry about how loud it will be, I'm deaf) reason fo using dual 80mm radators with 4 fans on each :p is the fact that I can fit the 80mms inside my case, barely, but still and the air flow will be set up in a method that is benifiaray ( in front where 1 rad will be, the fans will suck into case, while in the back where another rad will be it will blow out of case as well as other misc fans here and there for Ram and etc) so once again it would be great if someone could help me with my water cooling endevors, btw I know each loop will cost me around $400 for a total of around $800, but most of the parts will be re-usable so I see this as an investment, also I do not wanna go vapor.... Yet so don't suggest it :p

Thanks alot in advance :D

Chilly (heh this brings new meaning to my nickname :p)
 
Well first off you better seriously be deaf as in sign language deaf cuz I had 2 tornados in one of my old rigs in the past and could hear the wine of the fans from my garage when the rig was in an upstairs room!!!


Anyway, I usually put the res after the radiator just to kind of let the water hang out an extra lil bit before heading back through again.
 
Anime_Fan said:
Well first off you better seriously be deaf as in sign language deaf cuz I had 2 tornados in one of my old rigs in the past and could hear the wine of the fans from my garage when the rig was in an upstairs room!!!


Anyway, I usually put the res after the radiator just to kind of let the water hang out an extra lil bit before heading back through again.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "hang" is it better to let cold water hang or hot water hang? anyways yea I am sign language deaf :p sucks sometimes, but I can hear a little bit with my sony amped headphones at 116db, so I can still "hear" in a a sence but lol I won't be hearing 50db tornados anytime soon :) anyways the rest of my questions being anwsered would be great, thanks
 
well you would probably have to get a dedicated psu for TECs as they need a lot of current and are generally pretty inefficient. If you're running multiple TECs I would definately recommend a dedicated PSU. Other than that I don't think it really matters where in the loop you put your res, just where it'll fit. If you get one that fits in the 5.25 bay then connect it where it would be the most economical on tubing, if you have another kind put it where it'll fit/look the best. If it's a closed loop system temps from one spot to another spot don't differ by more than 1-2 degrees C. my resevoir is attached to the outlet of my cpu and then it goes to the pump then rad then gpu then rad then cpu but only cause that's where it fit best :D
 
Double Jesus said:
well you would probably have to get a dedicated psu for TECs as they need a lot of current and are generally pretty inefficient. If you're running multiple TECs I would definately recommend a dedicated PSU. Other than that I don't think it really matters where in the loop you put your res, just where it'll fit. If you get one that fits in the 5.25 bay then connect it where it would be the most economical on tubing, if you have another kind put it where it'll fit/look the best. If it's a closed loop system temps from one spot to another spot don't differ by more than 1-2 degrees C. my resevoir is attached to the outlet of my cpu and then it goes to the pump then rad then gpu then rad then cpu but only cause that's where it fit best :D
Click to expand...
ok sound good, now the problem is would the system I outlined handle the tecs?
 
Ok a few points, first lets start off with the resevoir. A resevoir has but two functions in a watercooling loop, and neither of them have to do with cooling. The first function of a resevoir is to bleed the air from the loop. A well designed resevoir will be able to do this wherever it is placed in the loop. The second function of a resevoir is to make the entire fill/bleed process easier. In order for a resevoir to be most effective you want to have it immediately before your pump, also make sure that the resevoir is physically above the pump--which helps to aid in priming the pump during the initial fill. You also dont want to have the resevoir in between the pump and any waterblocks in the loop.

My second point is to do with the radiators. A single 120mm radiator has more surface area, and cools better than a dual 80mm radiator. Along the same line a dual 120mm radiator has more surface area than two dual 80mm radiators. You will get better performance fitting a single dual 120mm radiator to be used for both of your loops than you would with the two separate dual 80mm radiators. Out of curiousity, what case are you planning on putting this setup in? It would help people give you suggestions on how to best fit everything in the case.

About the TEC's, I agree that you want to have a dedicated PSU for them. You may be able to run them off of your main PSU but think of this : Basically the only reason to get TEC cooling is to overclock, the most crucial component in getting very high overclocks is strong stable power. If you are running your TEC's off of your main PSU you are draining a lot of power from it, and the voltage may drop to the point where it hurts the stability of your rig. Also, the only board where you would have a shot at getting a TEC on the video cards is the ASUS SLI board, all the other boards dont have enough space between the slots to fit a TEC with proper insulation.
 
if I did dual 120 thou I would have to put it externally, but definaly something to thinkabout, now I know about the fact I may need to use 2 psu's, but my main question is how many watt tec could I put on the gpu's, mind you the cpu will not be getting tec cooled, only the gpu's, so would the watercooling setup handle it if a 1/2" single 120mm cooled the loop for the 2 gpu's only?, I might consider doing the cpu tec cooled as well as long as the wc set up can handle it, and if so how many watts(tec) would it handle?

so sofar I got this, res above pump before pump, seprate high power PSU, and 2 120mm single rads. I still need how much watts each loop would be able to handle, also remember I will probbly be putting high cfm deltas on the 120mm if I go 120.
 
if I did dual 120 thou I would have to put it externally, but definaly something to thinkabout, now I know about the fact I may need to use 2 psu's, but my main question is how many watt tec could I put on the gpu's, mind you the cpu will not be getting tec cooled, only the gpu's, so would the watercooling setup handle it if a 1/2" single 120mm cooled the loop for the 2 gpu's only?, I might consider doing the cpu tec cooled as well as long as the wc set up can handle it, and if so how many watts(tec) would it handle?

so sofar I got this, res above pump before pump, seprate high power PSU, and 2 120mm single rads. I still need how much watts each loop would be able to handle, also remember I will probbly be putting high cfm deltas on the 120mm if I go 120.
 
I'd say an 80W pelt is as much as you would need to use on the GPU. DFI_Daishi is probably a better person to answer the questions with the TEC cooling as he has good experience (and bad experience ;) ) with TEC cooling.
 
so 80watt pelts for cpu and a 172 watt pelt on cpu? does this sound like it will not burn out, truthfully in all reality if theres a problem I can just remove the pelts, there only worth aprox 30-40$ there not a huge loss but still, so if I do that (80+80+172) a 350-400watt external PSU would be fine? would a internal 800watt or more psu be suffucent then because ot all comes down to I wanna keep this all in the case :p and well the 2 single 120mm (1 for each loop) is pushing it and I don't know where I would put it, is it that important to use 120mm, or could I get away with 2 dual sized 80mm rads?

I still have alot of questions but this is alot of dough I'm gonna be laying down so :p
 
ok heres the plan so far, tell me if its good and it would work, because I don't wanna burn the tec's out either so, here it is

watercoolingidea7wm.jpg


Thanks (piont of the 2 80s is well you can see and ontop of that that way I can keep all of this inside the case and better cool the gpu's :D)
 
Chilly said:
ok heres the plan so far, tell me if its good and it would work, because I don't wanna burn the tec's out either so, here it is

Thanks (piont of the 2 80s is well you can see and ontop of that that way I can keep all of this inside the case and better cool the gpu's :D)
Click to expand...

Holy spaghetti tubing Batman!!

Ok a few words of advice, you want to MINIMIZE the amount of tubing you are using in your loop. That being said, the CPU loop looks fine. I would redo it to look something like this :
flow.JPG


Now the pumps can be moved around a bit to possibly reduce the tubing even more. The main points in the redesign are two fold. First, you only need one resevoir, simply get one that allows you to have two inputs and two outputs, there are a couple out there like that (Typhoon Bay Res I believe). The second thing is to connect the two GPU blocks right after each other, even with an 80W pelt the water temperature will not increase a substantial amount from one to the next.
 
Honestly, thwose two 80mm rads probly wont cover the heat form teh pelts + vid card. Probly ought to try and fit at least a single 120.

Same goes for the single 120 for the CPU. Your gonna want a dual 120.

If I remember correctly you were talkinga bout an extremem coolling system a while back, is this the same deal? Cause Bio-hazard could probly tell you everything youd want to know about what to put into a TEC setup.
 
hey everybody, it's me, the guy who almost burned down his house with his unsafe pelt cooling practices.

first off: a big fat negative on an 80 watt pelt being enough for a modern GPU. i ended up taking my GPU pelt out, because it was only keeping my old 9800 pro at about 10-15 C under load. when i moved to my new x850XT, i looked at how close things were going to be, as compared to ambient, and i decided to eliminate some heat load from my loop, and get some better temps out of my CPU pelt.

second off: the more wattage on the CPU pelt, the better. 226 watts is keeping me at around 0C overclocked and under load. i don't think that you should go lower than that. look into 40x40 mm and 50x50 mm 24 volt pelts for both applications. the 40's fit most pelt-enabled GPU blocks, and the 50s fit most pelt-enabled CPU blocks. you get better pumping power for the size @24V, and you can get a powerfull enough dedicated PSU to run them all, more readily.

to keep those pelts working reasonably well, you need to keep those hot sides as cool as you can. my own pelts take a realy performance hit at temps approaching 45 C. 40 is better. i was able to keep my single 80 watt pelt and 226 watt pelt, plus the rest of the system at around 40 with 115 CFM fans in push-pull config on my BIX 2. i have since moved to two BIX2 rads, and can now run my fans at a reasonably quiet 5 volts. so, no, i don't think that dual 80mm rads and a single 120mm are up to the task, unless you are looking at running a mega-insane delta 120mm FFB, TFB or GFB fan on there.
 
DFI Daishi said:
hey everybody, it's me, the guy who almost burned down his house with his unsafe pelt cooling practices.

first off: a big fat negative on an 80 watt pelt being enough for a modern GPU. i ended up taking my GPU pelt out, because it was only keeping my old 9800 pro at about 10-15 C under load. when i moved to my new x850XT, i looked at how close things were going to be, as compared to ambient, and i decided to eliminate some heat load from my loop, and get some better temps out of my CPU pelt.

second off: the more wattage on the CPU pelt, the better. 226 watts is keeping me at around 0C overclocked and under load. i don't think that you should go lower than that. look into 40x40 mm and 50x50 mm 24 volt pelts for both applications. the 40's fit most pelt-enabled GPU blocks, and the 50s fit most pelt-enabled CPU blocks. you get better pumping power for the size @24V, and you can get a powerfull enough dedicated PSU to run them all, more readily.

to keep those pelts working reasonably well, you need to keep those hot sides as cool as you can. my own pelts take a realy performance hit at temps approaching 45 C. 40 is better. i was able to keep my single 80 watt pelt and 226 watt pelt, plus the rest of the system at around 40 with 115 CFM fans in push-pull config on my BIX 2. i have since moved to two BIX2 rads, and can now run my fans at a reasonably quiet 5 volts. so, no, i don't think that dual 80mm rads and a single 120mm are up to the task, unless you are looking at running a mega-insane delta 120mm FFB, TFB or GFB fan on there.
Click to expand...

so what are you saying 2 single 120mm, or 2 dual 120mm's, and what kind of dedicated psu am I looking at, I was looking at some MEANWELL PSU's and also what do you recommend for the gpu then at least a 172 pelt? (starting to think if I spend this much money, I wouldn't be able to get 2 gpu's only 1, at least not anytime soon anyways) I want to get this set up perfect before I go outbuying stuff and screwing it all up because of overheating or something. Thanks once agin for all your guys help
 
24v 172w TEC on GPU (running off PC PSU at 12v = 126w TEC), a 226w TEC on CPU (running off dedicated PSU - Meanwell s320-12). GPU is an X800Pro >> X800XTPE. CPU is a Clawhammer 3200+ at stock speeds but overvolted. Pump is MCP600. CPU Block is Maze4-1. GPU Block is Maze4-1.

Here are the temps achieved with various rads, all using the relevant number of Panaflo M1A fans at 7v (relatively quiet). Both GPU and CPU at 100% load. System was left at full load until temps had levelled before temp-logging began. This is all on a single loop.


HE120.3 with 3x Panaflo M1A@7v

Air<: 23.0 | 24.0 | 23.5 | 23.0 | 23.5 | 24.5 | 24.0
Air>: 26.0 | 27.0 | 26.5 | 26.0 | 26.5 | 27.5 | 27.0
Liq<: 33.5 | 34.0 | 34.0 | 34.0 | 34.0 | 34.5 | 34.5
Liq>: 33.0 | 33.5 | 33.5 | 33.5 | 33.5 | 34.0 | 33.5
CPU: 17.0 | 17.0 | 18.0 | 18.0 | 18.0 | 19.0 | 18.0
GPU: 19.0 | 19.0 | 20.0 | 19.0 | 20.0 | 20.0 | 20.0

< = In
> = Out


PA120.3 with 3x Panaflo M1A@7v

Air<: 22.5 | 24.0 | 22.5 | 23.0 | 23.0 | 23.5 | 22.5 | 23.0 | 22.5 | 22.5
Air>: 27.5 | 28.0 | 27.5 | 28.0 | 28.0 | 28.5 | 28.0 | 28.5 | 28.0 | 28.0
Liq<: 30.5 | 30.5 | 31.0 | 31.0 | 31.0 | 31.0 | 30.5 | 31.0 | 30.5 | 31.0
Liq>: 30.0 | 30.0 | 30.0 | 30.0 | 30.5 | 30.5 | 30.0 | 30.0 | 30.0 | 30.0
CPU: 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 14.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0
GPU: 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 16.0 | 16.0 | 16.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0 | 15.0


PA160 with 1x Panaflo M1A@7v.

Air<: 24.0 | 23.5 | 23.0 | 23.5 | 23.5 | 23.0 | 24.0 | 23.5
Air>: 31.5 | 31.5 | 31.5 | 31.5 | 31.5 | 31.5 | 32.0 | 31.5
Liq<: 37.0 | 37.5 | 37.5 | 37.0 | 37.0 | 37.5 | 38.0 | 38.0
Liq>: 35.5 | 36.5 | 36.0 | 36.0 | 35.5 | 36.0 | 36.5 | 36.5
CPU: 21.0 | 22.0 | 21.0 | 21.0 | 21.0 | 21.0 | 21.0 | 21.0
GPU: 21.0 | 22.0 | 22.0 | 22.0 | 22.0 | 22.0 | 22.0 | 22.0

Use that info as you will... draw your own conclusions. Personally, 2x80mm + TEC = waste of time.
 
Marci I really like that post for one great fact....it proves what I always say about how the temperature of the water in a system does not vary by more than about 1-2C. If you look at the water in and waterout temperature of the radiator the largest difference is 1.5C with it usually at about .5C
 
Megadeth_Guy01 said:
I highly doubt this will cost you 400 per loop unless you are using silver blocks or something.
Click to expand...
it's going to be damn expensive, regardless of the exact figure. that's one of the fundamental truths about pelt cooling: it always ends up costing more than you would think at the outset.
 
Chilly said:
so what are you saying 2 single 120mm, or 2 dual 120mm's, and what kind of dedicated psu am I looking at, I was looking at some MEANWELL PSU's and also what do you recommend for the gpu then at least a 172 pelt? (starting to think if I spend this much money, I wouldn't be able to get 2 gpu's only 1, at least not anytime soon anyways) I want to get this set up perfect before I go outbuying stuff and screwing it all up because of overheating or something. Thanks once agin for all your guys help
Click to expand...
i am saying at the very least, a 120x2 rad, and some VERY loud fans, for a single loop. there is no need to do seperate loops, a single path work fine, so long as you have a good, strong, pump.

meanwell PSUs are fine. that's what i use myself. they come in both 12 volt and 24 volt configurations.

here's a thought, i have been looking at some parts, and i think that i have worked out something doable. the swiftech 5002 block is a bit better performing than the dangerden maze 4, so i have worked out a parts list using the swiftech stuff instead of the DD stuff.

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-120-T.asp
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw50-T.asp
http://www.silverprop.com/cyclonefusionslt.aspx
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR120-qp.asp

you can use whatever rad you want, really. i just linked that one out of laziness.

i don't know of anything other than the sliverprop cyclonefusion SLT SLI version that is made to fit in a SLI config, and even then, it might not fit all boards out there. the problem is, as far as i have seend, no one carries that particular silverprop block. i don't know what viperjohn builds his out of, or if it is a complete custom block...

once you have all of that stuff on-stream and the bugs worked out, you can then go ahead and add a second 12V supply, to make a 24 V supply, and switch out the peltier modules for more powerfull units. if you really plan on going as far as this step, you should probably select a 2x120 rad for your intitial build, in addition to the two single rads included in the kit.

i can list off individual parts to make a somewhat better performing loop, however i think that the instructions and everything else included in the swiftech kit might make the whole build go more smoothly.
 
i am saying at the very least, a 120x2 rad, and some VERY loud fans, for a single loop. there is no need to do seperate loops, a single path work fine, so long as you have a good, strong, pump.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't say VERY loud fans would be a necessity - just depends on the choice of rad...
 
Hum, ok so far this is what I'm thinking from all your advice you genorous people have given, 1 dual(2x120mm size) 120mm rad, a cpu block with a 226watt pelter(tec) the 172watt pelter for GPU hocked up to psu, the 226watt hooked up to seprate 320watt psu, 1 5" drivebay res, and a powerful pump (whatever that may be) all in a single loop, in this order,

Res -> Pump -> Rad -> (Single-GPU)-> CPU-> loop

I have also changed my mind, I simply want a single GPU, as nice as a SLi/CrossFire set-up would be I simply don't have the cash for all that, maybe in the future and if so I'll but an extra rad to add to the loop and I would be good correct?

so

http://www.hardforum.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1028418637 For the GPU Block (Stick the 172watt tec inbetween, with the proper insulation of corse)
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw5002-64T.asp For theCPU block, 226Watt Tec preinstalled :D
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcp655.asp Pump
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=52&cat=27&page=1 as the RES
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=2&cat=72&page=1 For the RAD
Meanwell S-320-12 For Ded PSU for 226watt pelt

http://www.swiftnets.com/store/product_details.asp?ProdID=276 Misc for Tubes

Random tubes here

this sound good, would the temps all be handled well?
 
the only 172 watt 40x40 pelt that i am familiar with is a 24 volt unit, meaning that you can't run it at it's full capacity off of a computer's 12V rail. i see that is precisely what marci is doing, however i just wanted to make it clear that you will not be getting the full 172 watts out of that pelt, while it is running at 12V. if you go that way, you need a PSU with one hell of a strong 12Vrail.

part of the reason that i put up the swiftech kit is that it comes with anti corrosive coolant additive, which you need because the swiftech block uses both aluminium and copper.it also includes conformal coating, which you need for waterproofing your circuit boards, to guard against condensation. you need to smear your pins and socket with dielectric grease, again, inculded in the kit. you need to rig up a relay to cycle your dedicated PSU on and off with your computer, which the complete kit, and the auxilliary power supply kit both include.

running a single BIX2 rad, i needed 2 panaflo ultra 44 dB, 115 CFM fans going at full speed, to keep good coolant temps. you might want to think about a thinner rad, which might let you achieve similar performance levels, with quieter fans. the black ice pro3 would let you keep better temps, or a single 120mm rad and a radbox in addition to the double rad that you plan on installing somewhere in your case would also let you keep the noise down to a dull roar.
 
Marci said:
Wouldn't say VERY loud fans would be a necessity - just depends on the choice of rad...
Click to expand...
well, that also depends on your definition of loud. back when i went to those panaflos, they were quieter than my old delta FFB and heatsink.

these days, those fans at full power are more than i am willing to put up with.
 
fine I guess I'm gonna have to get a 24v psu as well, might as well get a 24v pump as well, as for the many rads, I don't mind loud as I stated before I'm Deaf :p so powerfull cfm fans both sides should be fine correct? my problem with the rads is simply I don't wanna overload my case with rads, while I could fit more rads, it would not be asteticly pleaseing, at least with the dual120 rad I can still "hide" it somewhat and then place the tubes in a pleaseing way, because te only way I could throw more rads in my case (without going external) would be to use the side panel, so you can see where I'm going, as for the kit, yea I might as well buy the kit its a lot easyer and if I ever think of screwing astetics for pref I'll have 2 extra single 120 rads :D

but theres still the problem of the gpu, I would not be able to use a 172watt tec on it would I because of the psu problem correct? because I really don't wanna spend the extra money on the dedicated psu fror each tec, lol more moeny wise then getting it into my case wise, well my only problem now is with the GPU tec, other than that I'm set :D
 
regarding the GPU TEC, are the temps that marci put up not good enough for you? those are the GPU temps that he/she (?) is getting with that 24 volt pelt running at 12 volts. if you are going to get a big 600 watt 24 volt PSU, then you might as well say screw it to the kit, get the parts seperately, and install 24 volt pelts in all of your blocks.

i DID notice you say earlier that you are deaf. you then went on to say that you can hear at least something if you put earphones on, turned as loud as they go. i didn't know how litterally to take you at that point.

what case do you have? there's more than one place to put a rad, and depending on where you put that 2x120mm rad, and what case you have, you might be able to use the radbox and at least one of the single 120 mm rads from the kit. it just mounts to one of the exhaust fan grills at the back of the case: drill two holes for the tubing, and you have another rad up and running. out of sight, and out of mind.

there are still a few ways that you could choose to go at this point, inculding total custom.
 
DFI Daishi said:
regarding the GPU TEC, are the temps that marci put up not good enough for you? those are the GPU temps that he/she (?) is getting with that 24 volt pelt running at 12 volts. if you are going to get a big 600 watt 24 volt PSU, then you might as well say screw it to the kit, get the parts seperately, and install 24 volt pelts in all of your blocks.

i DID notice you say earlier that you are deaf. you then went on to say that you can hear at least something if you put earphones on, turned as loud as they go. i didn't know how litterally to take you at that point.

what case do you have? there's more than one place to put a rad, and depending on where you put that 2x120mm rad, and what case you have, you might be able to use the radbox and at least one of the single 120 mm rads from the kit. it just mounts to one of the exhaust fan grills at the back of the case: drill two holes for the tubing, and you have another rad up and running. out of sight, and out of mind.

there are still a few ways that you could choose to go at this point, inculding total custom.
Click to expand...

Ahh, ok then in that case I'll just run the 172watt pelter at 12volts, sorry if I confused you lol, as for the deaf part, theres deaf and hard of hearing, the line is very thin when it comes to me, I can hear things starting around 80db ( to sounds like a like a whisper) and well at 112db things would sound an ok temp to listen to music and etc, mainly I went deaf over the years, I was born hearing( and started going deaf when I was around 10, so I can actually speak *almost* perfect english with all my friends and lip read for the most part), lol, so I don't mind loud fans because either I won't hear them or if I do it will sound to me what a quite computer sounds to you (personally I hate how most the time its a frinking ringing noice, thats right deafness isn't realy "deaf" its a mixture of a quiet ring and no sound, at least for me, anoying at hell when I first started going deaf, got used to it over time thou, anyways Thanks for all the advice things are good, overall this will all cost me about 600$ but hey its should bringg me some good OC power :D

Chilly
 
That would be "he"... :D

Clarence2k2%20052.jpg


Altho hair is longer these days... say Marc C. quickly over n over again... that's how ya get Marci. I got the name appointed to me years ago when working in a department with several Marc / Mark's in it, so the surname initial was always appended whenever anyone yelled for one of us. Could be worse.... Mark F. ended up getting called Meff.

I run that 172w TEC, MCP600 pump, Matrix Orbital, mCubed T-Balancer and the whole PC and all the fans (3x 120mm Panaflo M1A, 1x Panaflo 92mm M, 3x Panaflo 80mm L, 2x GlobalWin CBK58 60mm fans, 2x Sunbeam 80mm Cathode Fans - all on a Sunbeam Rheostat) off a tagan 480w PSU. With SLI I'd look to 600w or better, from either OCZ or PCP&C.

24v 172w TEC @ 12v = 126w, 10.5A.

226w TEC is the only thing on it's own dedicated PSU - s320-12 at 13.8v.

Both cooled on a single loop with PA120.3 with M1A's at 7v, which is very near silent. I can hear my NB fan (MicroCool Northpole @ 5v) & HDDs over the rad fans.

With 2x GPUs and 2x 172w TECs, I'd get 2x meanwell s320-12's....

226w TEC on one.
2x 172w TECs on the other.

Run everything else off PC PSU.

If noise is no object, ThermoChill HE120.3 with 6x 140cfm+ fans (3 on each side) will keep the lot cool on a single loop and slay the competition. Once you get into the realms of ultrahigh CFM fans that most folks consider noisy, HE can't be beaten.
 
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