Placing waterproofed peltiers in resevoir

H

Hallow

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Messages
183
Proly not the most original idea, but I was thinking that some pelts dipped in RTV sealant or PlastiDip and immersed inside a resevoir might be a relatively simple and cheap addition for
people already using water but want do go cooler.
 
Not really since both of those are insulators and you'd just have the hot side of the pelt raising the water temp while the cold side was lowering it. At best you'd end up with no change in temps and at worst you'd just raise the water temp further.
 
oh ok, I didn't understand that peltiers had both a hot and cold side...damn....DAMN DAMN DAMN....
 
Yeah, they use electron migration to cause thermal inversion creating a side that gets hot and by cooling it the other side gets cold...
 
Actually he would end up heating the water . If a tec has 100 watts cooling the heat side would be 200watts heating
 
It would only heat the water if the whole pelt were submerged... I'm talking about dipping only the heat sink for the cold side into the water.
 
Not a very bright idea. You could end up killing your CPU that way if the hot side started to touch the water. I know someone who fried their CPU by putting the pelt the wrong way on his CPU lol.
 
iSkylla said:
Not a very bright idea. You could end up killing your CPU that way if the hot side started to touch the water. I know someone who fried their CPU by putting the pelt the wrong way on his CPU lol.
Click to expand...


Or you could design your system so that this doesn't happen... Many people have used peltiers as water chillers with success.
 
take the res and cut a hole in it the size of a heatsink that would fit the pelt. caulk/glue the heatsink in the hole so the flat metal side is out, fins are in. attach pelt, cold side to the res heatsink and add another heatsink to the hot side with a fan. just like this

Be Amazed at my Paint skillz
 
Building a tec into a reservoir is the harder way to chill your water, imo. You'd likely be better off to simply add another waterblock to the loop and hook up the tec to it (as waterblocks do a great job of transferring heat). It would have to have a heatsink for the hot side. If the tec and heatsink were large enough, you could run without a radiator.

watercooler1ui.jpg
 
Back in the day those Ice Probes for fish tanks worked wonders for chilling water. Same principle, less work, only $99

http://www.****************************/ice_probe.jpg
 
ROFL at the iceprobe, god that is huge. =) who doesn't like big things tho :eek:. Anyway using a pelt to cool your water is a neat idea if you could do it right.
 
sandness said:
Building a tec into a reservoir is the harder way to chill your water, imo. You'd likely be better off to simply add another waterblock to the loop and hook up the tec to it (as waterblocks do a great job of transferring heat). It would have to have a heatsink for the hot side. If the tec and heatsink were large enough, you could run without a radiator.
Click to expand...

Yes, but the water goes through the cold waterblock too fast to cool down significantly. (a fraction of a degree at most because the Radiator would end up heating it up again if it did have enough power to significantly cool the water.)

http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=46

It can be done, but you need either a large cold waterblock to give the water time to cool down, or you need a lot of peltier power with no radiator on the cold side, and a water loop for the hotside of the peltiers.

see: http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=84&pg=1

You really are best off with the peltier on a cold plate directly on the CPU/GPU.

==>Lazn
 
it can be done right, it has been done right, it takes a lot of work to set up and eats a lot of power while running.

my own pelt set up uses a

waterblock | pelt | coldplate | CPU

arrangement. it works, but condensation proofing is a pain. condensation proofing all of your hoses and fittings for chilled fluid is even worse.

for a modern rig, it would take a lot more pelt power than a normal heatsink can deal with to chill down the water to any usefull degree.

it's far more probable that you'd have to do a chilled water loop for the CPU and a room temperature water loop to cool the hot side of the pelt(s)

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCWCHILL-452.asp

it's out there.....but you pay for it in work, cost of equipment and energy.
 
Lazn_Work said:
Yes, but the water goes through the cold waterblock too fast to cool down significantly. (a fraction of a degree at most because the Radiator would end up heating it up again if it did have enough power to significantly cool the water.)

http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=46

It can be done, but you need either a large cold waterblock to give the water time to cool down, or you need a lot of peltier power with no radiator on the cold side, and a water loop for the hotside of the peltiers.

see: http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=articles&disp=84&pg=1

You really are best off with the peltier on a cold plate directly on the CPU/GPU.

==>Lazn
Click to expand...
size of the waterblock and high coolant flow rates aren't the deal breaker, it's just the rad.
 
DFI Daishi said:
size of the waterblock and high coolant flow rates aren't the deal breaker, it's just the rad.
Click to expand...

Now that I think about it you are right. As the temperature will stabilize in any closed system. So you just need a big enough peltier(s) to handle all the heat of the system, and put the radiators in the hot loop, not the cold loop.

==>Lazn
 
when is somebody going to come out with a prebuilt cold plate rad ... now that would be sweet
 
why not just connect the pelt to the side of the rad and put a heat sink on the hot side with a fan blowing on it? the cold side should chill the rad fine maby and 8c change?
 
Derrick70 said:
why not just connect the pelt to the side of the rad and put a heat sink on the hot side with a fan blowing on it? the cold side should chill the rad fine maby and 8c change?
Click to expand...

Because the Radiator has enough surface area that it will be room temperature.. I doubt you would even get a .5 C (half a degree) change with that design.

==>lazn
 
what if you tried that with like 500 trillion tecs on the rad .. then would it be colder
 
Derrick70 said:
why not just connect the pelt to the side of the rad and put a heat sink on the hot side with a fan blowing on it? the cold side should chill the rad fine maby and 8c change?
Click to expand...
under the heat load of an overclocked a64, i get about twice that kind of drop temperature drop from a 226 watt pelt with the pelt hot side kept at around 38C (estimate based on water temp of 25C)

with the hot side of the pelt getting up to most likely in excess of 50 degrees when cooled by a simple Al heatsink, it is unlikely that the cold side will get much below room temperature at all, when under heat load from a proc. if you then note than an awfull lot of the heat pumped by a pelt attached to a rad will be heat from incoming air, rather than heat from the loop.......it's not likely to do anything at all.
 
1 120mm rad...

4 pelts one on each corner... hot side via fanless xp90s? (maybe something less expensive)

NO FANS ON RAD... insulate it... basically use it as a heatsink, or a giant waterblock with massive surface area if u will...

i think eventually the insulated rad would become chilly...


nearly the same idea as sticking a rad in a bucket of dice and acetone... just be sure you have some freeze resistant coolant (acetone or alchohol or something... 100% antifreeze a bit too viscous) and some tubing to support that coolant


so many more efficient ways to get the job done (SANS pelts)
 
malicious said:
when is somebody going to come out with a prebuilt cold plate rad ... now that would be sweet
Click to expand...

One example
They are not unheard of, just typically confined to industrial use (so far...) I suppose. Cost is probably prohibitive for the average watercooling Joe.
 
it would be more sensible to just use a larger rad with a longer loop inside and a higher airflow fan on it to get cooler water. putting a peltier in the res or adding one to the rad isn't going to do much for the temp at the cpu or the water temp in your loop.
 
You could get one of those mini fridges, the ones big enough for like 4 cans of pop. Seal it so you can fill it with water, punch some holes for water hoses and there ya go.
 
wetware_interface said:
it would be more sensible to just use a larger rad with a longer loop inside and a higher airflow fan on it to get cooler water. putting a peltier in the res or adding one to the rad isn't going to do much for the temp at the cpu or the water temp in your loop.
Click to expand...

Maybe not much, but it will get your water temp closer to ambient at least.
 
This is a rather easy concept. But its very expensive if you do it right. For a 400watt cooling system . you need a seperate power supply . If done correctly you also need a temp control . The chiller(cold plate with built in water flow) itself should consist of the tec sandwiched between the 2 plates.The hot side uses the same type of water cooled cold plate.
The cool side would run a constant loop threw your water blocks only controlled by a temp. control . the hot side would run a loop threw the rads only and must beable to dissipate 800 watts of heating. I run mine at 10c and its very reliable its is not supercooling even though if you took the time to insulate everything -20c can be maintained . But like I said its very expensive and is not for everyone.
 
$BangforThe$ said:
This is a rather easy concept. But its very expensive if you do it right. For a 400watt cooling system . you need a seperate power supply . If done correctly you also need a temp control . The chiller(cold plate with built in water flow) itself should consist of the tec sandwiched between the 2 plates.The hot side uses the same type of water cooled cold plate.
The cool side would run a constant loop threw your water blocks only controlled by a temp. control . the hot side would run a loop threw the rads only and must beable to dissipate 800 watts of heating. I run mine at 10c and its very reliable its is not supercooling even though if you took the time to insulate everything -20c can be maintained . But like I said its very expensive and is not for everyone.
Click to expand...

Indeed that works, but you do not have a radiator in the cold loop, as orrignally suggested. If you did, it would not work well enough to matter.

==>Lazn
 
I am sorry I thought I clearly stated the cold loop is threw the blocks only. and the hot loop is threw rad only .
 
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