PC audio is driving me nuts.....please help

S

Spyhawk

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2008
Messages
400
Ok lets start off by explaining the setup Im trying to have working audio no matter what media Im using.

1) My pc has a 980ti connected through DP to a Acer Predator XB271HU.
2) For sound when gaming Ive connected an HDMI cable from my Yamaha RX-V467 HDMI input 3 reciever to my 980ti
3) I also have a Turtle beach PX4 headset connected through a soundblaster Z sound card using SPDIF out which I use when I need my mic or when the wife complains that my sound is too loud
4) Now I recently connected a PS4 to my reciever and then through HDMI out to my monitor but when I do that Nvidia control panel loses the reciever for some odd reason and instead the monitor's speakers show up in sound devices. Only way to have the PC recognize my receiver is to disconnect the PS4.


Can someone please help me fix this or show me what would be the ideal setup for my needs ?
 
You need a Gefen hdmi detective or similar device between your pc and receiver. It prevents your pc from losing its logical connection/config when you switch inputs.
 
You did select the PC HDMI as the input on the amp?
And afterwards, select the amp as a display device in NVidia control panel.

The amp can probably only accept one sound input from whatever HDMI device is selected.
If so, you cannot have video from one HDMI device and audio from another HDMI device, the amp wont do that.
 
Spyhawk said:
Ok lets start off by explaining the setup Im trying to have working audio no matter what media Im using.

1) My pc has a 980ti connected through DP to a Acer Predator XB271HU.
2) For sound when gaming Ive connected an HDMI cable from my Yamaha RX-V467 HDMI input 3 reciever to my 980ti
3) I also have a Turtle beach PX4 headset connected through a soundblaster Z sound card using SPDIF out which I use when I need my mic or when the wife complains that my sound is too loud
4) Now I recently connected a PS4 to my reciever and then through HDMI out to my monitor but when I do that Nvidia control panel loses the reciever for some odd reason and instead the monitor's speakers show up in sound devices. Only way to have the PC recognize my receiver is to disconnect the PS4.


Can someone please help me fix this or show me what would be the ideal setup for my needs ?
Click to expand...

I think the problem is with daisy-chaining stuff through the same connection.

Can you not connect your Yamaha to the computer using something different than HDMI?
 
Spyhawk said:
Ok lets start off by explaining the setup Im trying to have working audio no matter what media Im using.

1) My pc has a 980ti connected through DP to a Acer Predator XB271HU.
2) For sound when gaming Ive connected an HDMI cable from my Yamaha RX-V467 HDMI input 3 reciever to my 980ti
3) I also have a Turtle beach PX4 headset connected through a soundblaster Z sound card using SPDIF out which I use when I need my mic or when the wife complains that my sound is too loud
4) Now I recently connected a PS4 to my reciever and then through HDMI out to my monitor but when I do that Nvidia control panel loses the reciever for some odd reason and instead the monitor's speakers show up in sound devices. Only way to have the PC recognize my receiver is to disconnect the PS4.


Can someone please help me fix this or show me what would be the ideal setup for my needs ?
Click to expand...


Is there a reason you
prava said:
I think the problem is with daisy-chaining stuff through the same connection.

Can you not connect your Yamaha to the computer using something different than HDMI?
Click to expand...


I was thinking the same thing. Since he is connecting his wireless headphones via SPDIF (coax/optical) he could probably use that to connect his Soundblaster -> Receiver.
 
prava said:
I think the problem is with daisy-chaining stuff through the same connection.

Can you not connect your Yamaha to the computer using something different than HDMI?
Click to expand...

Sure but how will I connect my wireless headphones?
 
My issues are due to gsync I think. Im forced to use a display port cable from my video card to my monitor for gsync and an HDMI cable from my video card to my reciever for 5.1 sound for the PC. When I wanna use the PS4 connected through HDMI from the PS4 to the reciever in and out to the HDMI in on the Monitor, windows sound device manager removes the yamaha device and replaces it with the monitor speakers which I have no need for. Why would that happen since the PS4 doesnt even connect to the Nvidia card ?
 
Nenu said:
You did select the PC HDMI as the input on the amp?
And afterwards, select the amp as a display device in NVidia control panel.

The amp can probably only accept one sound input from whatever HDMI device is selected.
If so, you cannot have video from one HDMI device and audio from another HDMI device, the amp wont do that.
Click to expand...

I select the inputs on the amp that I need like when I need sound from the PC I select HDMI 3 and when I use the PS4 I select HDMI 1 but when I want to go back to PC, windows sound device manager doesnt have the receiver anymore as a device and only way of getting it back is by disconnecting the ps4
 
It could be a fault in the amps firmware.
See if there is a way of updating it.

Or possibly it is configured for a through signal. Look for a way of enabling/disabling straight through HDMI connections.
See if one method does what you need.

Failing that, try using different HDMI ports on the amp for the PC and/or the PS4.
It might behave differently on different ports.
 
I gave you the solution and you completely ignored it. You need an EDID emulator between your pc and your receiver.

Right now, when you change inputs on your receiver, your pc "loses" the connection. An EDID emulator makes your pc always see the same device regardless of what your receiver is doing.
 
If CEC is enabled on the PS4 disable it. But overall that is one strange issue.
 
DoubleTap said:
I gave you the solution and you completely ignored it. You need an EDID emulator between your pc and your receiver.

Right now, when you change inputs on your receiver, your pc "loses" the connection. An EDID emulator makes your pc always see the same device regardless of what your receiver is doing.
Click to expand...


Sorry. I wasn't ignoring you.Iwas just filtering through the responses looking for an easy fix but right now its not looking good. In the past Ive always been HDMI with all my devices with my AMD video card and my 1080p monitor but since Ive changed to a gsync monitor(DP port connection mandatory)+ Nvidia card Ive been having these sound issues. I also have issues where I lose my icons or programs that magically appear on my secondary monitor which isnt a monitor but a sound device. AMD doesn't do it like that at all. Their HDMI devices dont appear as other monitors. Makes it bloody confusing the way Nvidia does it with the mouse continuously dissapearing on the side where my secondary monitor(hdmi device) is positioned.

AS for the Edid gizmo you mentioned it doesnt look like I can easily find one around these parts. Would have to order one and hope that fixes my issues once I recieved it. My question though is why do I have these issues with Nvidia and not with AMD or is it the display port connector that puts a wrench in my system.
 
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I still prefer using Toslink myself, even though people grump at it.

But I have an old dedicated sound card for it, that will run 7.2 DTS over it.

KarbQEv.jpg


That's an old pic before I added a few.

Yeah, I know the left and right are too close together, I had planned on rearranging things in the future with a projector and still sounds pretty nice as is with the other ones in the rear.

My ghetto 1000W+ sound system.
 
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MongGrel said:
I still prefer using Toslink myself, even though people grump at it.

But I have an old dedicated sound card for it, that will run 7.2 DTS over it.

KarbQEv.jpg


That's an old pic before I added a few.

Yeah, I know the left and right are too close together, I had planned on rearranging things in the future with a projector and still sounds pretty nice as is with the other ones in the rear.

My ghetto 1000W+ sound system.
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, what exactly specifies for the '1000W' part? Those speakers look like they're rated for 40-150w max. Not that it matters though, just curious.
 
B00nie said:
Just out of curiosity, what exactly specifies for the '1000W' part? Those speakers look like they're rated for 40-150w max. Not that it matters though, just curious.
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Amps are usually overrated so it wouldn't be hard to find a multi-channel system that you add up the amps and they claim 1000 watts or more. As a simple example (not that this is what he has in his system just an example) the Denon AVR-X6200W claims 150WPC and has 9 channels so 1350 watts right there. Of course the whole unit has a max rated power draw of 730 watts on the wall, so you aren't getting anywhere near that. You can get about 2 channels at that at a time.

Also if you include subs it can be easy to actually hit numbers like that. A lot of subs these days have pretty massive class D amps in them.
 
They are rated higher than that, the Kenwood trip 7's are themselves rated at 200W continuous, not that it matters, and have one AVR running into another amp also for the subs on a 7.2

Are a few others around the room ...
 
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Sycraft said:
Amps are usually overrated so it wouldn't be hard to find a multi-channel system that you add up the amps and they claim 1000 watts or more. As a simple example (not that this is what he has in his system just an example) the Denon AVR-X6200W claims 150WPC and has 9 channels so 1350 watts right there. Of course the whole unit has a max rated power draw of 730 watts on the wall, so you aren't getting anywhere near that. You can get about 2 channels at that at a time.

Also if you include subs it can be easy to actually hit numbers like that. A lot of subs these days have pretty massive class D amps in them.
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LOL it never occurred to me that someone would sum up the individual small amps and claim to have a 1000 watt system.

I guess I have then a 4500 watt system on my balcony. A 2,5 kilowatt bass amp + 2x1000 watt Electro-Voices :D
 
Why would it never occur to you if your system is pushing 1000 watts ?

The main AVR is rated 1000 +

I've played on many stages in concert in the past that were vastly larger *shrug*

Knock yourself out man.
 
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MongGrel said:
Why would it never occur to you if your system is pushing 1000 watts ?

The main AVR is rated 1000 +

I've played on many stages in concert in the past that were vastly larger *shrug*

Knock yourself out man.
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Well mostly because 150 watts per channel is 150 watts per channel regardless of how many channels you have. So you have in reality a 150 watt system not a 1000 watt one. :whistle:
 
If the speakers feels like it is punching you in the gut at way below half volume to begin with it's a long way from 150 watts.

Yeah, maybe well over 100 a speaker.

 
B00nie said:
LOL it never occurred to me that someone would sum up the individual small amps and claim to have a 1000 watt system.

I guess I have then a 4500 watt system on my balcony. A 2,5 kilowatt bass amp + 2x1000 watt Electro-Voices :D
Click to expand...

Eh I suppose it is as useful as any other wattage measurement on a system. I mean really it isn't a very useful stat to quote as it is pretty meaningless on its own. It is only really useful for you sizing things on your own system. The wattage rating on a speaker says little to nothing. My surrounds are "150 watt" speakers but super inefficient: 82dB/watt so even if driven fully they don't get all that loud. A Klipsch RP-160M is only rated 100 watts but would crush them as it is 96dB/watt.

Given how companies like to use wattage as a marketing term, it shouldn't be surprising people use it to talk about their system either. Personally I wish amplifiers were sold in dBW as that is a way more useful spec for comparison purposes but it doesn't sound nearly as impressive. When you say an amplifier is 2000 watts instead of 1000 that sounds huge. When you say it is 33dBW instead of 30dBW it sounds like a fairly negligible increase (because it is). Easy to see why amp companies like watts better.
 
I'm just not worried about getting in a fight with anyone over it to begin with.
 
Sycraft said:
Eh I suppose it is as useful as any other wattage measurement on a system. I mean really it isn't a very useful stat to quote as it is pretty meaningless on its own. It is only really useful for you sizing things on your own system. The wattage rating on a speaker says little to nothing. My surrounds are "150 watt" speakers but super inefficient: 82dB/watt so even if driven fully they don't get all that loud. A Klipsch RP-160M is only rated 100 watts but would crush them as it is 96dB/watt.

Given how companies like to use wattage as a marketing term, it shouldn't be surprising people use it to talk about their system either. Personally I wish amplifiers were sold in dBW as that is a way more useful spec for comparison purposes but it doesn't sound nearly as impressive. When you say an amplifier is 2000 watts instead of 1000 that sounds huge. When you say it is 33dBW instead of 30dBW it sounds like a fairly negligible increase (because it is). Easy to see why amp companies like watts better.
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about wattage ratings I'm talking about active speakers which have their built in 1000 watt amps. I have the 2,5 kilowatt amp connected to a horn loaded PD1850 18" bass which has a sensitivity of about 110db/watt. You need a bit more oomph when you play outdoors.

Wattage ratings have nothing to do with sound quality so it's pretty much irrelevant. My comment to MonGrel came out of pure curiosity because his picture showed some legacy boxed speakers which would start to emit heavy smoke even at 500 watts mark.
 
If course they would, but are why the old Trip 7's rated 200W constant are running on a separate amp, and the other 7 in the room are on the main AVR.

I wasn't aware we were talking about concert speaker solutions to begin with, PC Audio does not usually pertain much to a small outdoor stage setup from what it sounds like ...
 
MongGrel said:
If course they would, but are why the old Trip 7's rated 200W constant are running on a separate amp, and the other 7 in the room are on the main AVR.

I wasn't aware we were talking about concert speaker solutions to begin with, PC Audio does not usually pertain much to a small outdoor stage setup from what it sounds like ...
Click to expand...

I was just making a comparison of where 1000+ watt power is usually used at. Very very rarely at home theaters and even less at pc setups.
 
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