Parallel or Serial Cooling Setup

[skela]

I am currently in the process of building my second water cooled rig.
The first was using a kit and a commercial radiator (zalman reserator) / tank.
This time I want to do it myself.

So I have mounted 6 radiator elements from alphacool onto my black Lian Li midi towers.
I've decided to go for parallel cooling with a slow moving flow, but open to discussion on what is the best approach.
Was thinking of a setup like this:

Any obstacles or dangers I need to be aware of ?

 

[Nicepants42]

Any obstacles or dangers I need to be aware of ?

You mean other than very poor flow rates? How about all the tubing/connectors you'll have to deal with? You could make it look pretty snazzy with some custom junctions, but your flow rates are probably going to suck. Keep in mind that while low flow rates are generally not that costly in terms of performance, once you get down below 0.5L/min, it will hurt.

Does Alphacool use aluminum? That might be a problem.

 

[mtrupi]

I would think you want the water blocks to be properly matched so nothing gets starved off. Or make sure to have valves to adjust the flow.

 

[skela]

Is there anything wrong with poor flow rates?
I would think if the flow is slower maybe the water will have a better effect when it comes to cooling ?

I know the tubing and connections will be a hassle, but I've already finished mounting the radiators to my cabinet.
Here's an image:

Will test with parallel flow through the radiators at least, but wondering if perhaps I should go for series or parallel connections when it comes to pc components.
Is it possible to find pumps that have adjustable rates?

I want the best cooling performance, so do you recommend high or low flow rate ? parallel or series?

The alphacool radiators I have are aluminium, why is that a problem?

 

[skela]

I would think you want the water blocks to be properly matched so nothing gets starved off. Or make sure to have valves to adjust the flow.

What do you mean matched ? As in blocks from the same kit?
(sorry im a newb)

 

[Erasmus354]

For the radiators the parallel setup is fine, for the components it is a lot trickier.

Basically the water is going to take the path of least resistance. In other words, the least restrictive blocks will get the most flow. With the design of most blocks today the most restrictive blocks are going to be your CPU and GPU blocks. This means that your hottest components are going to get the least flow, exactly opposite of what you want. More flow always = better cooling, it is the laws of physics. It's ok to go parallel on the radiators because they all have equal resistance and therefore will get equal flow.

To properly execute a massively parallel setup like that you will need valves to artificially restrict flow to elements like the northbridge. Have a look in the worklog forums for Project Hex (I think thats what its called). It was something similar to what you are thinking of, and it certainly is not easy. I would suggest perhaps putting the CPU and GPU in series, and the other 4 components in parallel (but in series with the CPU and GPU).

CPU -> GPU -> 4 other components in parallel -> radiators


EDIT : Oh yeah, that radiator setup is not going to cool all your components, MAYBE the CPU and GPU if you are lucky. Passive radiators don't cool very well even if they look big.

 

[Nicepants42]

Is there anything wrong with poor flow rates?
I would think if the flow is slower maybe the water will have a better effect when it comes to cooling ? I sincerely hope you haven't purchased other cooling equipment without knowing the answer to this question. Higher flow is ALWAYS better for cooling. You can check the Swiftech website for C/W to Flow Rate performance graphs.

Will test with parallel flow through the radiators at least, but wondering if perhaps I should go for series or parallel connections when it comes to pc components. Erasmus' suggestion is good.
Is it possible to find pumps that have adjustable rates?Swiftech MCP655 (Laing D5) has built in speed adjustment.

I want the best cooling performance, so do you recommend high or low flow rate ? parallel or series? Generally, series = higher flow with the same components.

The alphacool radiators I have are aluminium, why is that a problem? It's a problem because mixing copper and aluminum in the same cooling loop will result in galvanic corrosion, which will eat away the aluminum. There are additives that can SLOW this process greatly, but eventually the aluminum pieces will be damaged/dissolved or your loop may get clogged with corroded metal.

Comments above.

 

[Erasmus354]

@Nicepants

Series does not always provide higher flow. For my suggested setup the CPU and GPU would get higher flow than if everything was in series. This is because the parts that are put in parallel lower the overall resistance of the loop. This in turn increases the overall flowrate. The problem when putting things in parallel is the aforementioned "path of least resistance" and also the fact that the flow is now split 6 ways making it a fraction of the overall flow to each component. Splitting the flow to low heat low priority components like RAM isn't as much of a problem as it is for the CPU or GPU.

Also I am a bit rusty on my galvanic corrosion but I think it is the aluminum the corrodes not the copper.

 

[Nicepants42]

@Erasmus354: Correct on both counts. Post edited.

 

[skela]

I've only purchased the radiators and the cabinet so far.
I wanted to clear up some unknowns on my part before I continued with
my little venture.

OK, so Ive decided to go for a serial connection through the pc components.
You scared me hehe...
But Im going to leave the radiators as they are, at least test the performance before I go for a series connection.

I completely forgot about corrosion, thank god you told me!
Since Ive already purchased the radiators Ill have to use aluminum cooling blocks.
You can buy aluminum cooling blocks right? I know aluminum has a lower thermal conductivity, but ill probably do that to avoid galvanic corrosion.
I found web site with details about the radiators I bought:
The Cooling Shop
does state, : "Material: Aluminium special continuous casting profile colored anodized
absolutely corrosion-resistant"
Should I trust them ?

have you any sites you recommend for purchasing water cooling equipment?
I live in the UK, so UK or EU sites would be preferable.

Oh and erasmus, im going to have fans aswell, but was thinking or rather hoping the passive cooling would do at night.
i want the thing to be silent so i can have it running (sick and tired of sleeping next to a jet engine)...

 

[Erasmus354]

skela : parallel configuration for the radiators will work fine, in fact it is likely preferrable to have the radiators in parallel. You also can keep the secondary components in their own parallel loop if you want, and put that secondary loop in series with the CPU and GPU.

Also, dont feel pressured into getting aluminum waterblocks. Just use a corrosion inhibitor in your coolant and you will be fine. Distilled water + 10% antifreeze would work. Much better to do that and get copper blocks then to get some crappy performing aluminum blocks.

EDIT: A second option for the corrosion problems, there are plenty of full cover gpu blocks that are aluminum, and secondary cooling blocks that are aluminum. Your best bet for a corrosion proof cpu block is a Koolance block. It is copper but it has a thin gold coating on it which should prevent corrosion. It won't perform nearly as well as something like an Apogee GT or Dtek Fuzion, but it would help against corrosion. I still think that using a corrosion inhibitor in your fluid is the best route.

 

[Arcygenical]

I love those cape cora radiators, I want to get a few of the red ones for my setup, and add them into my loop... Corrosion was a big isue for me, so I did some research on it.

Want to avoid corrosion alltogether? Do this:

Mount the aluminum radiators so they are TOTALLY isolated from anything else in the case. Galvanic corrosion can only occur when there the dissimilar metals are A) immersed in a conductive solution (IE, the water) and B) there is metallic pathway between them (supplimental to the water) that can conduct electricity. Removing either of these factors prevents accelerated corrosion. Naturally, you can't remove the solution (A) but you can remove the pathway.

Mount your radiators using nylon screws and nylon washers. Make sure they're isolated in every way from the case, any exposed wires, or anything else metal that can come in contact with the case. Use rubber washers or gaskets if required to help make this seperation possible. If you've screwed them into the case, use nylon screws and rubber washers to make sure they cannot come in contact with the case!

All IHS's are grounded. Therefore, any copper block on an IHS'd chip (and even some open die chips...) will be grounded. The common ground in the case is the case chasis. Therefore, letting the radiator touch this case, or anything metal that touches this case, will allow for electrical current.

Test your setup with a multimeter (1 probe on each rad, the other probe on the case) to make sure there's no contact.

You should also use a 5-10% solution of pentosin or other similar corrosion inhibitor too, just to be sure.

 

[mtrupi]

What do you mean matched ? As in blocks from the same kit?
(sorry im a newb)

In a general sense, if one element allows more flow than the others, the others will not be cooled as effectively as they might. If standard off the shelf stuff is used this should not be a big concern.

 

[skela]

cheers for everything , now ill have to get me a multimeter heh

anyways, ive decided to take the corrosion inhibitor approach, whilst trying to limit contact between the radiator and the case.

im looking at the D-TEK FuZion CPU Block,
but there is some lingo im not altogether sure about.

I'm looking at the block here,
and im slightly confused because of this:
"The FuZion™ block's G-1/4" hose barb threading offers compatibility with a wide variety of cooling kits"

Which is what I thought I needed, OD of 10 mm and ID of 7-8 mm (I measured this) isnt it ?
But if you check the bottom of the page it reads
"Available Options:
Barb Size: "
Where I get the option to pick 1/2" Nickel Plated, 3/8" Nickel Plated, 10mm Push fit,
10/8mm Compression.

How come there's two barb sizes? I dont understand at all

So far I've used the hose and stuff I got from the Radiators I bought.

 

[BillParrish]

(100% agree that getting alum blocks is the better way to go and they are widely available, not sure I agree about the koolance one, there is gold plating and there is gold plating /shug but I am not sure I could live with the looks and performace of the Koolance in what is looking to be such a high end attempt).

The barb size should match the inside diameter of the hose you are using.

block's G-1/4" hose barb threading

This means the block itself is threaded to take hose adapters with a G-1/4 threading, this is the theads between the block and the adapter, has nothing to do directly with hose size, just the bit that scews into the block. The hose will go on the other end of the adapter.. They mention it in case you have some weird need to use some other adapter than what they have available. So all the adapters for different hose sizes they sell will have the G-1/4 threads on the end that screws into the block. So all adapters need G -1/4 threads on end that screws into block, other end of adapter comes in all kinds of sizes and types to fit all kinds of hose.

There are two barb sizes, this is the "other" end of the adapter, one for hose with an inside diameter of 3/8 inch and one for hose with an inside diameter of 1/2 inch.

Which is what I thought I needed, OD of 10 mm and ID of 7-8 mm (I measured this) isnt it ?

Your hose has an ID of (better if you looked it up on sellers/manuf site to see if they say exactly) 7mm x 1 inch / 25.4 mm = .276 inches or 8mm x 1 inch/ 25.4mm = .314 inches

3/8 inch = .375 inches - too big, not your hose,
5/16 inch = .3125 inches - maybe, falls top end of your measurements.
1/4 inch = .250 inches too small, not your hose.

So apparently your hose is truly metric in size and I am not up on what is available.
7.5mm would be .292 and still does not match up to a US size.

10mm Push fit,
10/8mm Compression.

Everything on alphacools web site for tubing is 8mm ID.
http://www.alphacool.de/index.jsp?SID=0&LNG=DE&NAV=236&PCAT=6&PTUBE=45

So I am pretty, fairly, maybe, take no responsibilty, just guessing, dont have a clue, thinking the 10/8mm compression is what you want. You will unscrew the outer ring, slip it onto the hose, insert the hose into the fitting so that the inner part of the fitting goes into the inside of the hose and the end of the hose goes as far as possilbe onto the fitting and then slide down and tighten the outer ring. Probally just like what is on the rads now.

They should be the same thing alphacool sells.
http://www.alphacool.de/index.jsp?S...T=6&PROD=29&PTUBE=48&PARAMS=&PARAMS2=&SPCAREA=

 

[skela]

BillParrish:
You're right, I've read the manual I got from Alphacool, and it says 8 and 10 mm,
in fact the connectors I got with the rad are exactly that: 10/8mm Compression.

I was going to go for a a really good cooling block for the cpu, but not sure anymore
(really good as in not aluminium), do you recommend Aluminium blocks then ?

 

[skela]

Ive another question after looking at all these different types of cooling blocks and what not.
When im looking at CPU cooling blocks, sometimes they state support for lets say Intel Core Duo Socket 755. I still havent found one for Quad Core, will Core Duo do ?

 

[Nicepants42]

C2D and Quad core use LGA775. If your block can be used with socket 775, you're fine.

 

[Erasmus354]

The two best blocks right now for a quad core chip are the Dtek Fuzion and the Swiftech Apogee GT/GTX. They have a large cooling patch which is excellent at cooling the large quad core chips.