Panworld Pump question

[n00btard]

Want to use 3/8" tubing for the most part (MOSFET and 7800 voltage regulator cooled on 6mm tubing in parralel via Koolance 3/8~1/4 splitter), want to use this pump:
What kind of threads does it use, what tubing size will it accept, can I get it to work here (Canada)?

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...D&Product_Code=PW-30PX&Category_Code=Panworld

 

[thewhiteguy]

Your small tubing is probably not a good match for this pump. A D5 is more than enough for your loop and won't be running as heavily loaded all the time.

BTW it won't work in Canada, it was designed with the US' laws of physics in mind

 

[DFI Daishi]

BTW it won't work in Canada, it was designed with the US' laws of physics in mind

wow! go team physics! :|

seriously, though, if you want to toss out that particular barb, aim it at the germans. we have no watercooling industry to speak of up here and german gear is FAR more readily available on your side of the border.

 

[thewhiteguy]

Actually it won't work because it's not metric

 

[DFI Daishi]

Actually it won't work because it's not metric

tell that to the pipe fitters, plumbers and gas techs. don't get me wrong, i wish that we actually were metric.

i can go out and buy 454 grams of butter in a package. i should go out and buy half a kilo. we aren't really metric because all of our products are sold by the old imperial weights and volumes, but the lables are metric. as a result, in canada imperial fittings are a bit more common than metric, though both are available.

i don't know of any reputable canadian online stores selling new iwaki or panworld pumps. with thin tubing like what the OP is running, the DDC is probably a good bet, and the linked pump is certainly overkill.

incidently: the link notes that the threads are 3/4"

 

[Bbq]

german gear is FAR more readily available on your side of the border.

Still can't seem to find any

 

[n00btard]

Actually it won't work because it's not metric

actually, I like using the Imperial system better, since I got quite accustomed to it in Metalwork 9 (quit after a year because I was afraid of the welding torch) and am currently using it in my Drafting 10 class.

As for "small tubing," My loop (as it currently appears on a piece of paper) goes:
T-Line/Fillport (filling)==>Pump==>Danger Den RBX 775==>Danger Den NV-78==>Danger Den MAZE4 (NB)==>Danger Den MAZE4 (SB)==>Koolance 3/8~1/4 splitter (one 3/8" fitting breaks off into two 1/4" fittings)==>Alphacool 7800 Voltage Regulator block(1/4" #1)==>Aqua Computer P5 MOSFET block (1/4" #2)==>Koolance 3/8~1/4 splitter (joins back to 3/8" ID)==>Innovatek Radi D(120.2)==>Y-fitting==>fillport(bleed)==>back to pump

Everything will be pulled from either Sharka or FrozenCPU

I want to use that particular PanWorld pump because it's externally mounted, therefore allowing me to W/C a Shuttle (at which point I won't need the P5 MOSFET block), D5/MCP655 in a MountainMods BobSlay otherwise, and oogie used it for his ClearOogie PC, and went onto reccommend it. It looked like he was using some sort of a push-on adapter, and I was wondering whether it was possible to use a line reducer to reduce the 1/2" ID tubing to 3/8" ID.

and I was wondering about whether I'd have to turn the damn pump on seperately before I start up the PC, or if it was possible to use a relay of some sort for the pump...yeah.

Thanks.

 

[Bbq]

-snip-

Yea, if it's AC powered, you should turn on the pump before the computer.

(most schools use MIG or TIG welding now)

 

[DFI Daishi]

www.bigfootcomputers.com is a canadian DD retailer. you might want to have a look before you buy cross-border, because as soon as the parts cross the border, things get really expensive really quickly.

you can run any AC pump you like on a relay.

you can run any reducer that you like in the loop, but with the mish-mash of hardware that you have up, cooling components that don't benifit from watercooling and mixing high restriction-low flow parts with flow hungry DD gear..........it'll work, but i simply question the benifit.

the DDC gest more head pressure than that pan world does, which is important for some aspects of you loop, but with the flow splitting........you need lots of flow......but the high restriction of some of your pars will divert flow away from some areas of your loop.......

honestly, what is your goal? what do you hope to accomplish?

 

[DFI Daishi]

Yea, if it's AC powered, you should turn on the pump before the computer.

relay man.....relay........the water isn't going to be any cooler if the pump turns on first. so long as the pump starts when the computer does, it works as well as having the pump always running.

 

[n00btard]

www.bigfootcomputers.com is a canadian DD retailer. you might want to have a look before you buy cross-border, because as soon as the parts cross the border, things get really expensive really quickly.

you can run any AC pump you like on a relay.

you can run any reducer that you like in the loop, but with the mish-mash of hardware that you have up, cooling components that don't benifit from watercooling and mixing high restriction-low flow parts with flow hungry DD gear..........it'll work, but i simply question the benifit.

the DDC gest more head pressure than that pan world does, which is important for some aspects of you loop, but with the flow splitting........you need lots of flow......but the high restriction of some of your pars will divert flow away from some areas of your loop.......

honestly, what is your goal? what do you hope to accomplish?

teh uberquietz0rz_ PC. Followed by overclocking my Cedar Mills.

 

[DFI Daishi]

teh uberquietz0rz_ PC. Followed by overclocking my Cedar Mills.

okay......then why not use passive air coolers on the mosfets SB and NB? you don't get quieter than passive.

if you watercool less stuff, you can use a legitimately quiet pump like the DDC, which you can mount internally or externally as you prefer. i have tried neither pump, but the comment that i have heard from someone who runs the pan world equivalent to the MD20 is that it is louder than a D5, which is to say "not exactly quiet." if you're trying to put together a really quiet build, this is probably not the pump for you.

with a quiet pump and watercooling of componentls like the CPU and CPU, (possibly the NB as wel) with passive coolers on other items, you can target really low noise opperation. you set the rad up to vent out of the case, and then make small inlets near the VGA card to bring air in past the memory and mosfets.

as for watercooling a shuttle at all........you'd need an external rad, and you're thinking of using a large external pump: what's the point in getting small and portable hardware if you're then going to mount a pile of gear to the outisde of it, destroying it's portability?

 

[n00btard]

as for watercooling a shuttle at all........you'd need an external rad, and you're thinking of using a large external pump: what's the point in getting small and portable hardware if you're then going to mount a pile of gear to the outisde of it, destroying it's portability?

radiator can sit on top and pump can bolt onto the side. Just a thought...

as for passively cooling the NB, my friend recently bought a Zalman passive NB cooler to replace the broken fan on his NF4 on his A8N-E FM motherboard, and his temps were obscenely high until he stuck a 50mm fan onto the side via a rubber band.

so if I used a quieter pump like the D5 or an MCP655, is a 120.2 with two undervolted (7V) Papst F/2 GLLLs sufficient?

 

[DFI Daishi]

as for passively cooling the NB, my friend recently bought a Zalman passive NB cooler to replace the broken fan on his NF4 on his A8N-E FM motherboard, and his temps were obscenely high until he stuck a 50mm fan onto the side via a rubber band.

so if I used a quieter pump like the D5 or an MCP655, is a 120.2 with two undervolted (7V) Papst F/2 GLLLs sufficient?

it depends on the chipset.......i have a fan that moves air past my video card and NF3 chipset, and it stays below 40C load. nothing actually on the chipset heatsink itself, just case airflow.

i use panaflo fans......the A-C crew loves their papst........i have heard nothing but good things about yate loon fans, and the ones that my friend is running under volted as case fans are inaudible form outside of the case, while still moving reasonable airflow.

a canadian store that is good to deal with and is one of the few places in canada that sells OEM yate loon fans: http://www.adpmods.com

 

[n00btard]

it depends on the chipset.......i have a fan that moves air past my video card and NF3 chipset, and it stays below 40C load. nothing actually on the chipset heatsink itself, just case airflow.

i use panaflo fans......the A-C crew loves their papst........i have heard nothing but good things about yate loon fans, and the ones that my friend is running under volted as case fans are inaudible form outside of the case, while still moving reasonable airflow.

a canadian store that is good to deal with and is one of the few places in canada that sells OEM yate loon fans: http://www.adpmods.com

F/2 GLLLs are supposed to run at 14dBA at 12V while pushing 30CFM or so.

so if the PanWorld isn't the way to go, then should I go with a Hydor L35?

 

[DFI Daishi]

F/2 GLLLs are supposed to run at 14dBA at 12V while pushing 30CFM or so.

so if the PanWorld isn't the way to go, then should I go with a Hydor L35?

from someone who has had some papst fans cross his desk: http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1028769843&postcount=250

i can just say that yate loons have really impressed me, though they are not well suited to my rads and needs.at this point i have at least tested fans by panaflo, yate loon, sunon, delta, NMB, adda, roton, thermaltake and maybe a few others that i'm not thinking of. cathars post gives you the comparison testing.

the hydor is big, some people have problems with impeller rattle, some people have problems with vibration transfer and it doesn't have as much head pressure as the DDC or D5. if quiet is your goal, you don't mind sacrificing some performance and you don't mind a big pump, the eheim 1048 is the way to go.

 

[n00btard]

from what I heard, RBX blocks require a pump pushing at least 300GPH for optimal performance. Maybe I'll just stick with the D5...