Overclocking my E6300 w/o Water cooling...

motolube

Gawd
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Dec 18, 2006
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I have another post about help upgrading my CPU but they recommended me to try to overclock before I waste money on a new CPU and I have decided to follow thru with it but I need MAJOR HELP on this department as I have never done this. A friend helped me to get it to 2.1Ghz but I don't know what he did or how and he is no longer in town.

I do need someone to take his time and give me the step by step instructions of what to do. I can follow orders pretty well and I know my way around computers but not a PC guru at all (I am a fast learner though! ).

As it stand, this is what I have now...

Windows XP w/SP2
Ultra Aluminus case
toughpower 600w PSU
Evga 680i SLI Motherboard
E6300 CPU @ 2.1Ghz w/Freezer 7 Pro heatsink
OCZ 2GB 1066mhz SLI Ram 5-5-5-15
ECS 8800GT 512MB w/Acelero S1 heatsink (upgraded recently from 2 BFG 7800GTX)
Samsung 750GB HDD 7K 32MB SATA 2
Acer 22" widescreen LCD

This rig is going to be used mostly for playing FPS games (Single Player only) with the regular internet browsing, check e-mails, etc.

I will like to take it as high as it will go w/o WATER COOLING and stability is the name of the game here ;)
 
First read as much as you can about overclocking. there is a guide here i believe on where to start just do the search. also search on the E6300 i think if i'm not mistaken i've seen them go as high as 3.2 on that chip.. good luck and have fun.
 
Those chips overclock well, probably as good if not better then my E6420 which stock was 2.13ghz, and I took it up to 3.8 which was like a 70% overclock. You can almost double their clock. You should definately read a guide though, to learn the ins and outs. What safe voltage is, what FSB holes are, whats an acceptable FSB for your 680i to handle, etc etc.
 
Well, I did read the guide Stickied here (a few times I might add) but, as much as I tried, I couldn't understand it or find the logic behind each change and since "Understanding" is KEY here, I was not comfortable trying anything.

I always try to keep an open mind when it comes to Computers and I love to fiddle with them but there are things that I just can't understand for reasons beyond my control and this leaves me with an angry feeling but I rather follow someone's lead than bust my rig wide open.

OldPueblo, I will be waiting for your input on the matter and I will also post an image of my Bios to see if that would make it easy for someone to tell me what do move and how. Also, do you also have an Evga 680i Mobo?

Thanks guys for forcing me to read more, I will take another stab at it when I get home, hopefully, this time around, it will make better sense to me.
 
Basically how it works is this, it might not be accurate but it'll give you a way to visualize what you're trying to do:

CPU_Northbridge_RAM

The northbridge is like the controller of everything on the motherboard ( there is the southbridge as well but we don't care about that) and it runs at a certain speed, the Front Side Bus. This typically runs at 266mHz. The CPU uses this frequency as its base as well, but uses a multiplier, 7 for your E6300, so that it runs at an internal 1866mHz. Same story with the ram. RAM can be running at 266mHz, 333, 400 or whatever, and the northbridge can compensate for this by running a divider so that the NB itself can run at stock speeds but the ram will be faster.

Generally people increase the RAM speed and FSB proportionately, so if you were running them at 400mhz, the CPU would run at 7x400= 2800mHz.

So basically, the RAM is able to take and give data faster, the NB is able to carry it quicker, and the processor is able to process faster.

As for what you specifically have to do to overclock for YOUR board, I don't know.
 
Basically how it works is this, it might not be accurate but it'll give you a way to visualize what you're trying to do:

CPU_Northbridge_RAM

The northbridge is like the controller of everything on the motherboard ( there is the southbridge as well but we don't care about that) and it runs at a certain speed, the Front Side Bus. This typically runs at 266mHz. The CPU uses this frequency as its base as well, but uses a multiplier, 7 for your E6300, so that it runs at an internal 1866mHz. Same story with the ram. RAM can be running at 266mHz, 333, 400 or whatever, and the northbridge can compensate for this by running a divider so that the NB itself can run at stock speeds but the ram will be faster.

Generally people increase the RAM speed and FSB proportionately, so if you were running them at 400mhz, the CPU would run at 7x400= 2800mHz.

So basically, the RAM is able to take and give data faster, the NB is able to carry it quicker, and the processor is able to process faster.

As for what you specifically have to do to overclock for YOUR board, I don't know.


This is a good clean explination of how the board and bus system work
 
Yes, I understood that much better than the whole guides I have seen so far. with this and the other images I have seen on what to do on the Bios, now I have a better handle on the logic behind it... THANKS for the crash course.
 
I am a big fan of this processor. It had so much overhead.

The main advice I have is for best results before overclocking is the ram ratio. Set it to 1:1. This allows you to really push the the CPU and board without bringing the ram into play until you get to 400FSB (so long as you have ddr2800 ram).

Lock the PCI frequency at 100-110 or so. lock the PCI clock to 33.33.

Other than that there isn't much to say....once that's done just start upping the FSB until you get to the level you wish. I needed 1.4V on the core to get where I'm at, but you might need more or less.

Always remember YMMV.
 
I am a big fan of this processor. It had so much overhead.

The main advice I have is for best results before overclocking is the ram ratio. Set it to 1:1. This allows you to really push the the CPU and board without bringing the ram into play until you get to 400FSB (so long as you have ddr2800 ram).

I have no clue what so ever what that means but I am willing to listen and test if you are willing to tell me how to achieve that. All I know is that I have OCZ PC2-8500 DDR2 1066mhz SLI Ram and I think I am covered, right? ;)

Lock the PCI frequency at 100-110 or so. lock the PCI clock to 33.33.

Ditto what I said above! :(

Other than that there isn't much to say....once that's done just start upping the FSB until you get to the level you wish. I needed 1.4V on the core to get where I'm at, but you might need more or less.

Always remember YMMV.


What is YMMV? Sorry old school or possibly just old :D

I tried to follow a guide I saw on the EVGA forum done by one of the mods there and all went well until I got to the desktop... it only lasted a few minutes before the whole thing froze up on me. heck I tried to bring it back to the stable 2.1GHz I had it at before but it wouldn't stable itself up so I just went to the Bios and hit the Default button and I am back to square one! I amy have lost this round but the battle is still reachable and looks promising. It is widely known that the only way to learn is by busting the crap out of your PC and it can only be achieved by testing and more testing :D
 
YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary

The ram ratio is the effective speed your ram runs at compared to the FSB. For example when you run your ram at 1:1 the ratio of FSB to ram speed is even. so if you have your FSB set to 266 then your ram runs at 266 (266*2 because it's double data rate which ends up as 533)

You currently have more overhead on your ram than you will even need.
 
I'm running 2.8 passive so there is some decent room to OC this chip (haven't tried to go higher because I don't need to and I like running at 1:1 with my ram)
 
Some quick googling turned these guides up, I think the IGN one is really straightforward. Check it out and report back!
1. http://pc.ign.com/articles/747/747606p1.html
2. http://www.nvidia.com/docs/CP/45121/nforce_680i_sli_overclocking.pdf this is Nvidia's own comprehensive guide to overclocking a 680i mobo!


Thanks for those links, I will try that tonight when I get home (if the wife allows :p) and post back here.


YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary

The ram ratio is the effective speed your ram runs at compared to the FSB. For example when you run your ram at 1:1 the ratio of FSB to ram speed is even. so if you have your FSB set to 266 then your ram runs at 266 (266*2 because it's double data rate which ends up as 533)

You currently have more overhead on your ram than you will even need.


I understand the basics of this, I just don't really know how to go about acomplishing the task... I guess I got to keep on reading more guides :D



I'm running 2.8 passive so there is some decent room to OC this chip (haven't tried to go higher because I don't need to and I like running at 1:1 with my ram)

I may have to open the case and check the Artic Pro 7 cooler as I may have moved or unplugged something when I installed the new HDD or the new 8800GT card but it wasn't giving me the same problems it gave me last night after testing the new settings... I'll post back anyhow.

Guys, I know you do this for everyone else but I really like to Thank You for taking the time with me. If any of you own motorcycles and want a hook up on some parts or accessories, I will try to help this way (Shameful but honest plug) ;)
 
HERE

is a few screens from my bios, and how I did what I did. I don't recall everything about your bios, but the terminology should be pretty much the same.
 
HERE

is a few screens from my bios, and how I did what I did. I don't recall everything about your bios, but the terminology should be pretty much the same.

What board, Ram and GPU do you have? I don't know if this makes any difference, I just thought I would asked. Thanks for the guide, I will make sure to re read this post before I do anything tonight.

About my problem last night, I thought that my 600w toughpower PSU may be the culprit since the new inception of the HDD and GPU but I just went here... and it seems that all I need with my set up is about 380w so I should be golden.

Oh, would I need to have more fans on my Case for even better cooling? As it stands, I have 2 120mm fans and I believe that the PSU brings its own 120mm fan... Artic 7 Pro cooler heatsink for the CPU and the Accelero S1 on the 8800GT.
 
So far, this is the best I have been able to get following that guide for the E6600/680i, if I go any higher than that and with the voltage increases they recommend there, my PC craps out a few minutes after I boot to windows and I open up Coretemp, Cpuz & SpeedFan simultaneously.

Since they are not working with my Memory and CPU, I am kinda stuck but I will leave you some images to see if you guys can guide me a little better from here... I'll keep reading other guides though.

Oh and, I am not to happy with them Core 0 & Core 1 Temps I see on the Speed Fan but I really don't know what they mean or where I can go to lower them as I am running all my fans at 100% already.

overclock01se2.jpg
 
Well for starters Trust core temp for your temperature. I don't think the two readings for core 0 and core 1 are correct. You may be able to up the voltage on the core a smidge, and still be alright.

For mine I have to have 1.4V going to the core. I'm assuming that you are on stock cooling, so you can't expect TOO much from it.
 
You can safely increase voltage to 1.35, and use realtemp or coretemp for cpu temperature. what voltage is your ram at, btw?
 
Well for starters Trust core temp for your temperature. I don't think the two readings for core 0 and core 1 are correct. You may be able to up the voltage on the core a smidge, and still be alright.

Ah ok but... what exactly do they mean? Is that the temp for each core of the CPU? if so, why does the CPU temp shows at normal on the SpeedFan readout?

For mine I have to have 1.4V going to the core. I'm assuming that you are on stock cooling, so you can't expect TOO much from it.

Well, no, I am not with the stock HSF, I am using the Artic Pro 7 HSF, is this much better than the stock one or is it just more of a Bling thing because it sure looks like a big monster compared to the stock one... :D


You can safely increase voltage to 1.35, and use realtemp or coretemp for cpu temperature. what voltage is your ram at, btw?

My CPU core voltage is set to "Auto" at the moment (I am not 100% sure as I did a lot of changes last night and I was very tired!). Whe you say, you can safely increase voltage to 1.35, you are asking me to increase my CPU Core voltage, right?

My Ram (OCZ 2GB 1066mhz SLI RAM) is at 2.20v at this moment.

I did all this Overclocking with "UNLINKED" but I have read other guides where they tell you to LINKED/SYNCED both the FSB (QDR) and RAM and this is the part that has me a little confused for the moment.

Also, if I overclock my Ram and GPU, would I be helping with speed and cooling or would I just be adding more HEAT to the equation? Even though my GPU has the Acelero S1 HSF which is supposed to be very good.

I would just love to find a guide from a guy that has the exact same setup than mine so I know exactly what he has done. All the guides I have found are a bit old and with old Bios so I don't know if I doing it all correctly, either that or they only do 1 part and not the others... oh well, these are the perks of overclocking I guess :D

Very Important Edit: The guide I was reading (first guide posted by skadebo) stated that once I had gone overboard with the overclock my system wouldn't even be able to boot to windows but that is not my problem at all. Even with the 2.8ghz overclocking, my system was able to boot to windows desktop but after a couple of minutes it would froze up on me and lock to the point that I would have to use the POWER button to shut off the PC before being able to start all over again... what does that mean to you guys?
 
It means you need to turn up your CPU voltage to what the other posters are recommending. It should be stable after that.
 
What I mean is the reading of 52 for core 0 and core 1 from speedfan isn't correct. The reading from core temp for your 2 cores IS correct (or close enough at least).

I'd say you have a little room for more core voltage. 1.35 should get you to 2.8GHz from examples I've seen (depending on how much Vdroop there is, but don't worry about that). I am not big on knowledge concerning your board but if your linked as you raise your FSB your memory frequency will rise. If you are at a ram ratio of 1:1 though you will not reach a level where the ram is pushed beyond it 1066 stock speed.

I wouldn't worry too much about overclocking the ram as results are not as obvious as CPU overclocking. GPU overclocking will create more heat but effect on your CPU overclock will be minimal.

Also USUALLY when you are able to get to windows but are not entirely stable it means you are close and would need to tweak the voltages as above, and you SHOULD be able to get stable.
 
What I mean is the reading of 52 for core 0 and core 1 from speedfan isn't correct. The reading from core temp for your 2 cores IS correct (or close enough at least).

OK... Understood, I have read the same thing somewhere else before but I wasn't sure so I thought I would ask again.

I'd say you have a little room for more core voltage. 1.35 should get you to 2.8GHz from examples I've seen (depending on how much Vdroop there is, but don't worry about that). I am not big on knowledge concerning your board but if your linked as you raise your FSB your memory frequency will rise. If you are at a ram ratio of 1:1 though you will not reach a level where the ram is pushed beyond it 1066 stock speed.

Will try the 1.35v later on tonite and I'll raise the QDR to get to 2.8ghz.Now, I am working with UNLINKED right now, so to be able to go 1:1 with my FSB & RAM I should go LINKED/SYNCED, right? I think I tried that but when I up the FSB to + or - 1600 the RAM also went that high and I thought I couldn't go higher than 1066mhz with my OCZ SLI Ram... I am overlooking something I am assuming?

I wouldn't worry too much about overclocking the ram as results are not as obvious as CPU overclocking. GPU overclocking will create more heat but effect on your CPU overclock will be minimal.

When you say "GPU Overclocking will create minimal Effects on your CPU", what exactly are you saying? Do I have to understand that overclocking the GPU will not help with smoother game play and faster FPS's?

Also USUALLY when you are able to get to windows but are not entirely stable it means you are close and would need to tweak the voltages as above, and you SHOULD be able to get stable.

Thanks for the last paragraph, I thought as much with my little knowledge on the subject but I also wanted to be sure.

Alrightee then... I'll do some more tweaking tonight and report back to all of you kind sirs. :D
 
I would leave your ram unlinked. Having the effective speed at stock is fine. If you unlink it you would have to adjust the memory ratio to keep the memory frequency too high to be stable.

If it is linked as you raise the FSB, the frequency of the ram would go up as well. you would very soon be over the speed your ram would function properly at.

The effects of overclocking your GPU would increase heat, but the actually air temperature shouldn't go up all that much. You will also draw more power, but again the effect would be minimal, and you probably wouldn't notice anything. It IS another thing that can cause instability though, so I would only overclock your GPU AFTER you are stable on everything else. Just not to confuse things.

Overclocking the GPU may provide more in game performance increase than CPU overclocking. 1.86 - 2.8GHz, is a 50% overclock. If you manage a 50% overclock on your GPU (Not likely) You will see quite a bit more improvement from the GPU than the CPU in games...that isn't to minimalize the effects of CPU overclocking the CPU

However my CPU isn't a bottleneck really in any games I play. a c2d processor above 2.5GHz should be enough to make you happy while playing games.
 
I would leave your ram unlinked. Having the effective speed at stock is fine. If you unlink it you would have to adjust the memory ratio to keep the memory frequency too high to be stable.

I have left it UNLINKED and I was stable (although, w/o and stress test done yet) at about 2.3ghz but I don't know if it is a good idea to leave it like that if I want to try to get to about 2.8ghz?

If it is linked as you raise the FSB, the frequency of the ram would go up as well. you would very soon be over the speed your ram would function properly at.

OK, I understand this but what about if I LINKED & SYNCED? I read on some guides that this is actually better than just Unliking it? Much more so when your RAM is PC2-800 or more... is there any truth to this?

The effects of overclocking your GPU would increase heat, but the actually air temperature shouldn't go up all that much. You will also draw more power, but again the effect would be minimal, and you probably wouldn't notice anything. It IS another thing that can cause instability though, so I would only overclock your GPU AFTER you are stable on everything else. Just not to confuse things.

Usually, this is one of my problems, I have very little patience, hence, why I never bothered with trying to overclock before and now that I am doing it, I would love to overclock the hell out of everything at once :D I have come to realize that everytime I do that, I failed miseraby so, I do things with more time now.

Overclocking the GPU may provide more in game performance increase than CPU overclocking. 1.86 - 2.8GHz, is a 50% overclock. If you manage a 50% overclock on your GPU (Not likely) You will see quite a bit more improvement from the GPU than the CPU in games...that isn't to minimalize the effects of CPU overclocking the CPU

So, if you were just wanting to overclock to play games, would you O/C your CPU, the GPU or mildly do both? How much do you think I could get out of the ECS 8800GT 512MB w/Acelero S1 HSF?

However my CPU isn't a bottleneck really in any games I play. a c2d processor above 2.5GHz should be enough to make you happy while playing games.

I'll keep on harping on this little by litle until I am pass the 2.5ghz figure and then I'll do a heavy stress test, if everything passes with flying colors, I will O/C the GPU to be able to have a smoother Gameplay... hopefully.
 
I would say unlinked is best, and then manually set your memory frequency to what your ram is rated at. To me that makes the most sense. If you are looking to overclock you ram, then focus on timings, not frequency, as there will be almost no gain.

I overclock to play crysis at high setting at the native resolution of my 22 inch monitor. I overclock all my hardware to the best stable conditions I can get them to.

As for my 8800GT I was able to get it solid at 700 on the core, and 1000 on the memory. You have an after market cooler that is a little better than my after market cooler, but that is about as much as I'd expect for 24/7 stable conditions.

Also if your cooler can handle it I would shoot for 2.8. Looks good to get an additional 1000MHz. I was happy with 2.8GHz for a while, but as you can see from the sig...I eventually pushed it further.
 
I would say unlinked is best, and then manually set your memory frequency to what your ram is rated at. To me that makes the most sense. If you are looking to overclock you ram, then focus on timings, not frequency, as there will be almost no gain.

If I have set the timings on my PC2-8500 (1066mhz) OCZ SLI RAM at 5-5-5-15, what do I do or where do I go from here? I think that the frequency is at less than 800mhz but I can't be certain at this moment.

I overclock to play crysis at high setting at the native resolution of my 22 inch monitor. I overclock all my hardware to the best stable conditions I can get them to.

I also have a 22" widescreen LCD and the native res is 1680x1050, how exactly do I overclock to play Crysis at that Res?... I am still green at some of the things you guys tell me :confused:

As for my 8800GT I was able to get it solid at 700 on the core, and 1000 on the memory. You have an after market cooler that is a little better than my after market cooler, but that is about as much as I'd expect for 24/7 stable conditions.

Would Riva Tuner help me accomplish this marks? I would think so right? I was reading the Riva Guide last night and doing all the settings they recommend you to do but I stop short and figured I would continue once I get my CPU stable

Also if your cooler can handle it I would shoot for 2.8. Looks good to get an additional 1000MHz. I was happy with 2.8GHz for a while, but as you can see from the sig...I eventually pushed it further.

Shooting for 2.8, this is 2.8Ghz O/C'ng the CPU, right?

Yeah, I see your sig but I don't know if I am brave enough (or knowledgeable enough) to get there w/o frying the whole enchilada :D
 
I would leave the timings alone for now at 5-5-5-15, and the frequency you should be able to set 1066 which I believe you mentioned was the speed of your ram. After you get your CPU overclock stable then you can try lowering your memory timings to say 4-5-4-12, which is good and tight. With a 2.15-2.2V going to your ram it should be doable. To be honest though the results are minimal, and I wouldn't worry too much about it.

as for the Crysis res. It's a bit ambitious, but I get good frames on high at the beginning at my native res. In the snow levels it shows some stuttering. So I'm not sure if you will getting the gameplay you want in crysis no matter how much you overclock. But maybe a mixture of high and medium would make it decent.

RivaTuner will allow you to adjust the clocks of your video card. Other options are ntune, and ATItool.
 
This is the latest at 2.3Ghz O/C, it appears to be stable, Unlinked and the Ram is only at 855.6mhz so I have plenty of room to go.

What's the highest I could go w/o OverVolting? and, as soon as I can't boot up, what voltages should I be wanting to change first and at what settings?

overclock23ghzck0.jpg


This is a huge accoplishment for me, I know that for you guys this is like no O/C at all :D
 
Well it looks like you have your CPU voltage at 1.4 or so, that should be good for a might bit more than 2.4GHz.

The temps are a touch high, but should be fine. As fo stability, I would suggest for initial purposes to run 2 instances of prime 95 for a few minutes and see if you get errors. This will tell you load temperatures, and will also tell you if you are close to unbootable.

If it becomes totally unstable try to go up one step at a time until it is stable...though at 1.4 I'd say you cooler is about at it's max voltage it can dissipate...if not only a step or maybe two higher.

Up the FSB a bit and see if it still boots. If it does stability test it for a bit, if good keep going. You should be unstable in windows before you aren't able to boot at all, so you shouldn't have too much resetting the bios....
 
I guess I should have stated that all my system voltages with the exception of Memory are set to AUTO so this may be why the CPU voltage is showing a bit higher? I mean, the bios is working on conservative mode and upping the voltage a bit just to be safe? I may be totally wrong though ;)

You mean the Artic Freezer 7 Pro is not capable of dissipating more than that? Perhaps you were thinking I am working with the stock cooler? I just want to make sure before the whole thing blows up on me LOL :D

Thanks
 
No. What I mean is at that voltage that is showing on your core your temperatures are acceptable, but personally I wouldn't like the idle temperatures any higher. I can't say for sure, because I'm not sure what the load temperatures are. I would stick the voltage on your core at 1.4V and then see how high you can go...I was at 3.2 with 1.4V on mine...but that's mine. I can't vouch for yours
 
Well, I am at 2.5Ghz now, still with Auto Voltages except for Ram, I also upped the Memory (QDR) a bit just to see what happened and, I could be wrong but my CPU voltage got a few degrees lower than from the last set of images... I can't explain it.

Left the 2 prime95 test for about an hour and everything passed so I am happy for that... we'll raise the bar a notch or 2 and see what happens tomorrow.

One intriguing question, on the image (CPUID Hardware Monitor), my DRAM tempurate is 1.81v, I have to assume this is the Ram temp, right? if so, I have it set at about 2.1v on the Bios, why is the number so low or am I reading this totally wrong?
 
I've overclocked my E6300 to 3.5Ghz with Zalman 9700LED fan and with 1GB og A-Data DDR 800 (5-5-5-15) Ram :) Actually I'couldn't pass OCCT and Orthos test, but in games system was stable and PC passed 3dmark06 test (sh many experienced overclockers say that if system pass 3dmark06 it may pass allmost, remember allmost, everything :D )

there is a screenshot:

ResidentEvil2007
 
Well, I am at 2.5Ghz now, still with Auto Voltages except for Ram, I also upped the Memory (QDR) a bit just to see what happened and, I could be wrong but my CPU voltage got a few degrees lower than from the last set of images... I can't explain it.

Don't be afraid to overclock more, you have got excellent ram (i would be happy to have such).
Set fsb on 450 and ram multiplier on 2 so your ram sped will be 900Mhz, and you will reach 3.15 Ghz :) (I'm testing now with 3hours of OCCT)



EDIT: Latest stability tests shows that (maby because of MoBo) my E6300 is stable at 3333 Mgz. Bus speed 476 Mhz, and ram speed 952 Mhz. I think that this is very nice 78.5 % overclock. Now I'm looking for vapochill cooling system for 200W heat removing. When I find where to buy this one I will :) ant then I'll create my theme about E6300 Overclock :)
 
Starting from the fact that I am very GREEN when it comes to Overclocking, thanks ResidentEvil but I am happy to finally be at 2.8Ghz, stable and with no issues of heat (well, I could be happier if I was lower but ;)) and I have also overclock my GPU to 700/1000Mhz while being stable at both. I still have everything at Unlinked and I am afraid to switch to LINKED/SYNCED or go any higher so I'll just stop here.

Crysis went from Med-Low to High settings with 1680x1050 w/o a glitch, can't say I played that long but for the few minutes I did, smooth gameplay and no stuttering or hickups... that's great. I have just installed "Frontlines - Fuel of WAR" so I am going to be testing the game after I finish typing here to see how the rig holds up under some heavy loads (I can only imagine that the Prime95 test put more stress on the rig than a game, right?).

I know that I have room to improve on the CPU FSB but why jinx a good thing, right? more so when, from what I have read, going higher on the CPU FSB is not going to help me any with Gameplay which, by the way, is my first priority for overclocking in the first place.

Now, being said that, I still have room to go up on my mhz Ram and voltage but I am not to happy with how the CPUID Harware Monitor is reading the DRAM voltage at 1.8 when I have it set at 2.15v and I don't know if this is a glitch with this software or my Mobo is having a issue selecting the correct settings even after I have selected the 2.15v. Anyone can tell me if they are having the same issue with it or what proggie should I be looking to get to get a true reading of my DRAM voltage?

Also, the CPU core Temps are to high for my liking and I don't know what else to do to bring it down a notch or two. I know they will get close to 60C when playing for long periods of time and that's just to hot I think. I know that I could play with the voltages (they are still set at AUTO) but I just don't know what Variations of voltages I should be using and what to change on the Bios (I still have to read more on what CPU Core, MPP & SPP do to the whole thing). Another little question... why the variation of 3 degrees between one core and the other one? Is this normal?

Thanks again guys!!!

overclock28bp3.jpg
 
Well looking at the overclocking database for our processor it seems that the voltage you need for 2.8 is 1.27- 1.35V. To be safe I would go about 1.35V and see if you are still stable. Leave it unlinked as every proper guide I've read says that is the way to go, and it also makes the most sense.

I wouldn't worry too much about the ram voltage. I'm not sure why it's reading different. It may be something similar to Vdroop, or maybe a bug in the program, OR maybe that is the only amount of voltage being drawn...at any rate your ram isn't being pushed

I'd say primary concern is to get those temps down.

it's time to start tweaking the voltage on your core.
 
OK, looking at the Overclocking Database, I see that nordstern is the only one using the E6300 with the Artic Cooler pro 7 (same as me) and even though his Ram & Mobo are different, I can't help but wonder & understand how he is able to such lower voltages on his rig. It makes me wonder if he is lowering his volts on MCP & SPP as well or what kind of settings he uses.

overclockvoltsme9.jpg
 
Also, do you have active cooling on your northbridge? If you don't, I suggest you get a little fan for the northbridge heatsink, those suckers get very hot.
 
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