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Overclocking issues... need help!

C

CgyRob

n00b
Joined
Mar 14, 2011
Messages
8
Sorry to make my first post on this board another one of those noob questions regarding overclocking... but I am out of ideas :)

Specs: i7 2600K CPU, Asus P67 rev3 Sabretooth MB, CM H50 CPU fan

Ok so first off I got this thing running at 4.7GHz with no issues (46x103, CPU V is 1.320).
Idle temps were 28-29C at first but now 31-32 since I removed the H50 and removed some of the thermal paste since I thought it might have been too much).

Everything runs fine, no lockups. However when I run the Intel Burn program, it almost instantly jumps to 97C! Then when I stop it, in 2-3 seconds it drops back down to the 30's.

I've reseated the H50 numerous times. Also noticed that the CPU temp in the BIOS is MUCH higher than what is reported in Windows (either in the Asus software, RealTemp, CoreTemp, etc).

Bad mobo? Bad H50 (maybe pump stops?) Bad CPU?
Not sure where to continue!

Thanks in advance!
 
CPU Temp in BIOS is higher for a lot of people

in BIOS, your CPU isn't on idle.

http://www.overclock.net/12015003-post6.html

http://www.overclock.net/12552439-post12.html

everytime you remove the heatsink, you should reapply the thermal paste(wipe everything, then reapply...not just wipe some away), because there might be bubbles trapped between the two thermal paste surfaces now

what temp monitoring program? for me, HWMonitor is accurate
 
Thanks for the quick response.

I do reapply the paste everytime... I am using Arctic Silver 5 paste (but am all out now haha).
I smoothed it out also pretty thin also.

For monitoring temps I was trying the Asus software, CoreTemp and RealTemp.
I will dl HWMonitor and give it a try now.
 
I'm not sure, but it sounds like the heat is not transferring properly. Then again, you might be unlucky and got one of those CPU's that run hotter than the others, and you need to lower your overclock. Try lowering back down to stock, and seeing what your load temps are like.
 
I put it back down to stock and ran Intel Burn again... it's still hitting 75-79C on avg.

I think it's time to return the CPU, MB and cooler for replacements since they are only a few days old haha
At least that way I can rule out any potential issues.
 
75-79 seems like it's excessive for stock on the H50. Do you have the fan set to spin really low on it?
 
Tsumi said:
75-79 seems like it's excessive for stock on the H50. Do you have the fan set to spin really low on it?
Click to expand...

At first I had the "fan" (I guess the pump in this case) connected to the CPU fan input on the mb but to rule that out I connected it directly to the PSU.
 
Well, how much the H50 cools is directly dependent on how fast the fan itself is spinning, not so much how fast the pump is pumping water. Are you telling me you ran the H50 without connecting the fan? If so, that might explain your problems.
 
Tsumi said:
Well, how much the H50 cools is directly dependent on how fast the fan itself is spinning, not so much how fast the pump is pumping water. Are you telling me you ran the H50 without connecting the fan? If so, that might explain your problems.
Click to expand...

Oh forgot to add to last response... the fan that attaches to the rad is connected yes.
At the moment only one fan is on it but I did the whole rad-sandwich thing with 2 fans to see if it helped but it didn't. (and they were both blowing the same direction)
Perhaps I need to turn off auto control over the fan that is attached to the rad?
 
Hmm... take the second fan off, so that there's only one fan. Put it under load, and see if you can feel the radiator getting warm. If it's not, then you might have a problem with the H50.
 
Tsumi said:
Hmm... take the second fan off, so that there's only one fan. Put it under load, and see if you can feel the radiator getting warm. If it's not, then you might have a problem with the H50.
Click to expand...

Ok one fan behind the rad blowing out (so FAN>RAD>CASE) - put it under load and the rad stays very cool. I felt the pump and it was cool also.
H50 issue then?
 
Seems like it. If your processor is running at 70+ C, the H50 should definitely be getting warm. I know my 1090T with a 3x140 radiator can run at ~40 C, and I can definitely feel heat being blow out the radiator. Especially when my fans are set on low RPM. In fact, the entire top of my case gets warm.
 
I wouldn't mind so much except it's a pain taking that thing out haha
Oh well I'll exchange it in the morning and try another one! Will keep you posted.
Thanks for the help!
 
If you think that's a pain, try taking apart a watercooling loop when you replace a graphics card, motherboard, or processor. Especially when you use a D-tek Fuzion V2, and you're replacing the motherboard. The nut has to go up the entire length of a ~1.5-2 inch screw, which has to be done 4 times, and then back down again for the other motherboard.
 
When i stress test my computer my h50 gets hot the entire top the case warms up when im folding. Just throwing this out ther sounds like your h50 is shot. I can hear my pump which i thought was bad lol
 
Plz tell me some of you guys are not serious. The temp hike is from too many volts. The reason it drops back down so fast is because of intel speed step and other BIOS based features to keep the cpu cool and power usage low.

BUT yes it has to be the pump not working properly. I was playing around with mine one day. what i did was open up speedfan and wait for the temps to drop. I pulled the plug on the pump and it went up by 20c in less than 10 secs.

So connecting directly to the PSU didn't make a difference either rules out the bios slowing down the pump thinking it is a normal fan that can be slowed/stopped.

do you have any other coolers you can try??

EDIT: The pump does warm up pretty quick but the radiator temp depends on fan speed, what the computer is doing and how long it has been doing it.
 
I would build my own liquid cooling loop. The radiator on the H50 is really small and I don't think it can handle a 4.2ghz over clock. you would probably have more luck with temps on air than that thing. If you really want to liquid cool get a heat killer 3.0 water block and a swifttech 1/2" pump and a real radiator like this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...treme_240_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160 you will get much better temps. Any reservoir will work weather its internal or goes in a drive bay. I highly recommend bitspower bards as well. I hope this helps I just dont trust the H50 system.
 
Yarp said:
The radiator on the H50 is really small and I don't think it can handle a 4.2ghz over clock. you would probably have more luck with temps on air than that thing.

I hope this helps I just dont trust the H50 system.
Click to expand...

I disagree, note sig.

It's fine, as long as it is working. Which it sounds like this one is not. (Their RMA support is really good!)

Though I do not disagree with the suggestion of a custom loop, not everyone can afford it.

I'd happily by the Corsair H series again, though an H70 probably. I prefer the clean, openness vs a clunky tower.

P.S.

I had it running with a q9550 that I needed to bump the vcore to 1.45v to maintain 3.8GHz, and again, the H50 was fine.
 
Please next time don't get As5. Its so yesterdays stuff. In modern day we use Mx-4 which is the new in thing.

As5 got a 200 hour period when it needs to glue. So you got to wait a bit longer for it to really kick in.

Mx-4 don't have that glue period nor its conducive
 
Spooony said:
Please next time don't get As5. Its so yesterdays stuff. In modern day we use Mx-4 which is the new in thing.

As5 got a 200 hour period when it needs to glue. So you got to wait a bit longer for it to really kick in.

Mx-4 don't have that glue period nor its conducive
Click to expand...

Wow cool modern guy, I didn't know I was stuck in the middle ages.

AS5 is still good cheap stuff, and if you do use a lot of thermal paste (which I do since I tend to do a lot of swapping of components), AS5 is a much better choice. Actually, I use Arctic Ceramique, but it is similar to AS5 but non-conductive, and still cheap for large quantities.

The curing time takes a while, true, but only nets a temperature difference of about 5 C. OP's problem is not the thermal paste, but the H50 itself.
 
Tsumi said:
Wow cool modern guy, I didn't know I was stuck in the middle ages.

AS5 is still good cheap stuff, and if you do use a lot of thermal paste (which I do since I tend to do a lot of swapping of components), AS5 is a much better choice. Actually, I use Arctic Ceramique, but it is similar to AS5 but non-conductive, and still cheap for large quantities.

The curing time takes a while, true, but only nets a temperature difference of about 5 C. OP's problem is not the thermal paste, but the H50 itself.
Click to expand...

no lol didn't mean it in a bad way. Think they're priced almost the same. glue period of AS 5 that's a bit of for the people. They're too impatient. But if you want really good stuff and have a diamond mine in your backyard you might give 20kt diamond dust a try. Just don't go munch up your wedding ring. Your wife might think your crack addict
 
Spooony said:
no lol didn't mean it in a bad way. Think they're priced almost the same. glue period of AS 5 that's a bit of for the people. They're too impatient. But if you want really good stuff and have a diamond mine in your backyard you might give 20kt diamond dust a try. Just don't go munch up your wedding ring. Your wife might think your crack addict
Click to expand...

They are not priced the same. For the price of IC Diamond 7 tube, I can get a 22g tube of Arctic Ceramique. You pay more for better performance.
 
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