Original Klipsch ProMedia 2.1- Subwoofer is Dead... i want to fix it... can you help?

[ajmi982]

I have an original (well older version) Klipsch ProMedia 2.1. The left and right channels work perfectly. Really loud and clear. The subwoofer is a different story. I can have the sub control at any volume level but nothing is being outputted.

I took it apart this morning but didn't see anything obviously blown. Granted I'm not an electrical engineer do don't really know what to look for besides blown capacitors or fuses.

I'll add some photos later and I'll also hook the driver up to another sound system to see if it's just the driver. If do that would be a cheap and easy fix. If it's the amp I have no clue where to start.

Update: images added. Also tested driver in another system and it works fine so unfortunately it seems to be a problem with the amp. All fuses look good.
http://imgur.com/owdnLGp
http://imgur.com/Hc9tBCv
http://imgur.com/qvcpvxs
http://imgur.com/WSe46pL
http://imgur.com/x8tDv7a
http://imgur.com/dfDy5o8

Did a quick review and noticed that I also had scorched and broken zip ties. I guess something blew up in the amp . I'll have to look a lot closer.
Adding some more photos that might help...
http://imgur.com/vNlF1uv
http://imgur.com/jnRDiSu
http://imgur.com/yfGdeXV
http://imgur.com/WX1783G
http://imgur.com/BBshMIr

 

[Brian_B]

Get a small external amp to run just the sub? I think that amp was originally 160W for the sub, and 20W per stereo channel, and an outright replacement of the entire set is around $170US

A new dedicated subwoofer of similar make could be had around around $180:

Klipsch SW-450, that's a lot more power than you had before though.

Depending on how you want it to look, a dedicated sub amp could be an easy way to go. May have to run the input through a crossover, but that isn't a huge deal. A new ~160W internal amp could be had for pretty cheap - ~$40 , I don't know what the internal power supply you have in the klipsch is, although you could meter the power supply and see - it looks like it in the picture you have shown as BBshMIr. You could also re-purpose a car amp from +12VDC, and that could be really cheap, or go all out and get a high end dedicated sub amp just to drive the woofer.

I'm guessing the board shown in NIF1uv is the sub amp, it looks like it's overheated based on board discoloration, but no component is obviously flawed, and you'd have to do a good bit of invasive testing to find the failed component(s).

I guess a lot depends on your level of audiophileness, and your tolerance for doing work yourself (you took that thing apart, so I'm guessing the DIY factor is fairly high), how you want it to look when your done, and how much you want to spend.

 

[ajmi982]

Hi Brian. Thanks for your detailed reply. My objective is to keep it as close to stock as I can. Don't plan to put much money into this other than and resitors I may need. I have a digital multimeter but need to learn how to use it. Likely something shorted on that one dark board which I think is the sub board. I get very very faint sound from the sub when it is cranked all the way up.

As you noted nothing is visibly blown but maybe a trace went bad. Idk much.