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Ordered some parts but need help.

A

Aus10

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
1,870
I am paying for the following, it cost me $418 and it is to be shipped out on wednesday...

Swiftech mcr 320 drive B rad
Swiftech mcp 350 pump
3x scythe sff21f 1600rpm fans
Tygon tubing
Bitspower matte black 3/8" to 5/8" compression fittings (6)
Bitspower matte black g 1/4" rotaries
Pt nuke
Silver kill coil
Xspc rasa cpu block
Evga gtx 480 sc
Aquagrafx gtx 480 waterblock
Mounting brackets


I have to install that in a corsair 600T but im wondering how do i flush everything? How do i install it all like do i assemble it inside the case? Any tips or anything. How do i fill it? Stuff like that cuz im confused in this loop. I want to order a top for the pump but idk which one and a diffrent res. Also for now i will be using distalled water. I have about $60 right now left over and i want diffrent tubing... Also i wondered about selling the rad and buying a diffrent One. I would like to add another 480 and get a 800D and put a 360 up top and a 240 in the bottom front :) but thats more and more lol.
 
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I didnt see a reservoir in there, to fill it you have to be set up Res --> Pump then you fill up your reservoir and then turn the pump on until it empties turn off power (so your pump doesnt run dry) re-fill and repeat until your loop is complete.

For draning you can have a 3way fitting at the lowest point in your loop and have a sort of t-line with a plug at the end.

edit: I assembled mine in the case. the important thing is to take your time and make sure you secure everything properly. Leak test for more than 5 minutes. Id recomend at least an hour if not more.

Make sure you do not fill your reservoir to the complete top (if its a 5.25 bay reservoir) those dont have seals on the fill hole.
 
@xalex79, he's using a MCR Drive radiator, which integrates a radiator, reservoir, and pump in one.

The only thing you really need to flush is the radiator. Run hot distilled water through it until no flakes come out.

For installation, install everything in your case, and figure out the length of tubing you need to run between each component. Then you can cut the tubing, and if you want, take everything out and run a test loop to make sure there's no leaks. If you test inside the system, then unplug everything except for the pump, and use the paperclip trick to turn on the power supply, and leak test inside. That way, if there is any leaks, your components won't be on, and they won't get damaged. If one of your components do get wet, let it dry at least overnight.
 
Ok thank you, whats a cheap place to get a res? And the res is supposed to built into the rad,..
 
Tsumi- i have been considering selling that rad and getting a diffrent one but im not sure...

Ill have to figure see everything and then figure out what i need then order but whats the cheapest place?
 
@Tsumi My bad, wasnt aware of those all in ones :)

@Aus10 I myself am very happy with my dual bay with pump housing for a D5. That would mean you need to buy a D5 pump seperately. All depends if you are willing to spend the extra money. The res goes for about $45~ and the pump for around $80~ plus another stand alone rad. It does sound like alot of efforts when you already have a working setup in hand.
 
Yeah thats true ig... Idk im just going to have to wait and see i guess.
 
The Advantage you would have a seperate pump/res is that it allows you to add more rads later on if you need to. I dont know how strong the pump in that all in one is, but it probably wouldnt handle too much addons to your loop. What are you cooling with this setup? The rig in your sig?
 
I will be cooling a Intel i7 920 oc to 4ghz and two 480s but only one for now :)
 
Wow, I am pretty sure a single 3.120 will not be able to keep up with two 480s and a CPU. Sounds like you will def need more rads at some point.
 
I want to do a black ice gt steath blue 360 and a 240 with a d5 pump a cyclinder type res with 1/2" id tubing and all compression fittings so im kinda working that way. Just starting with this for now lol
 
MCP350 is enough for two radiators and 3 waterblocks. If you can, see if your pump is the blue impeller pump, and if it is, look up the MCP350-355 mod. Also, get a aftermarket pump top for the 350, it'll improve its performance drastically. In fact, a 355 will be better than a 655 in a loop with lots of parts in serial, and the 350 will be roughly equivalent or somewhat lower.

XSPC or Bitspower res-tops for the MCP350/355 run about $30. They are a pump top and reservoir in one.
 
How do i see if it is a blue impeller? Should i look into the res and top all one everything?
 
Yes, that is indeed one such top you can use.

The way you see it is to take the pump top off, and see what the color of the impeller is (that is the thing which moves the water). If it isn't blue, you can always check to see if the PCB is the type to support the mod by taking the pump completely apart. Generally, it's only the older models that have this, so if yours is a newer model (recently made), then chances are you can't mod it.
 
Im worried about what happens with the res in that system cuz i cant see the water level so how do i know when to turn the pump off?
 
Generally, you can hear air being pushed through the system when the water level gets too low. Or, check the water level once a week and top it off, that should ensure that it doesn't get low unless you have a major leak. That's one reason why I don't like the drive radiators; you can't monitor the water level since it is not clear.
 
I would just get the res you linked. It offers the best performance of all single-DDC tops and keeps your loop more company than a separate res since it literally sits on top of the pump.
 
Yeah i agree with that, i will just keep adding water while it is running... I was also wondering,

Would this work, i will install everything and then cut the tubing and everything then take it all out and put it together but warm distalled water through it? I am worried about running hot distalled water through it cuz it could mess up the tubing ya know? I think it would atleast...

Also i was wondering about like how would i know what my temps water is? I know it cant go above like 60c or something like that cuz the tubing becomes weak... So how do you clean the whole loop out? I also thought that you cant run really hot water through the pumps becuz it is bad for them to get that hot...
 
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So I shouldnt worry about that... So how do I clean everything then?
 
Aus10 said:
How do i clean the lines though and the pump?
Click to expand...

Well you need to dismantle it and wash them seperatly and then put it back together, alot of ppls use hot (not boiling) water+vinegar to do it.

I wouldn't clean the parts in place way too risky to get water on your parts.
 
I was going to assemble it all downstairs and run it but im confused on how to work it cuz it is a 3 pin thing not a um molinex thing? So that confuses me....
 
Do you mean, like rebuilding your loop outside the computer and run hot water+vinegar with the pump?
 
One answer: don't. Just wash it manually by letting gravity run the water through it. Because you want everything to get out, and if it's inside your loop, you might not be able to do that. Actually, flushing things out with hot tap water probably wouldn't hurt anything, and running a final rinse of distilled water to clear things out to make sure nothing is left.
 
Oh i see ok cool... Its all used stuff so just looking to get a clean start.. How do i connect the pump?
 
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