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Onboard versus Audigy2

Onboard sounds like 8track. Get it you'll be much more pleased with an aftermarket card.
 
Well, first of all, are you using a digital output or are you using analog outputs? Secondly, what speakers/headphones are you using or planning on using?

The Audigy 2 is (likely) a piece of crap. Every Creative card I've ever seen has been garbage from the standpoint of analog audio output quality. I forget what POS opamps were on the Audigy 2 that I canned a few years back but they were cheaper and lower quality than the barely passable JRC5532s that are on the M-Audio Revolutions and a lot of other "high end" cards.

None of this matters if you're using a digital output, though, and even if you're using an analog output you're not going to notice a world of difference between the Audigy and a decent sound card like say, an Auzentech X-Plosion with OPA637 or AD843s unless you have a solid pair of headphones or amp/speakers to back it up.

If it's between the Audigy and the on-board, take a listen to both and go with whichever one sounds less like a tin can telephone with a loose string.

On the other hand, if you want to throw some money at this start with an Auzentech ($99) or a HT Omega card ($200) and see how you like it. If you want to upgrade from there, the opamps on both cards are socketed and easy to upgrade.
 
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Audigy 2 is a piece of crap, from personal experience. I don't like the 48KHz resampling either.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. My speaker are just an old 2.1 creative set, nothing fancy.
 
The Audigy will suite them fine. For 20 bucks it's a world better than the onboard.
 
Well, first of all, are you using a digital output or are you using analog outputs? Secondly, what speakers/headphones are you using or planning on using?

The Audigy 2 is (likely) a piece of crap. Every Creative card I've ever seen has been garbage from the standpoint of analog audio output quality. I forget what POS opamps were on the Audigy 2 that I canned a few years back but they were cheaper and lower quality than the barely passable JRC5532s that are on the M-Audio Revolutions and a lot of other "high end" cards.

None of this matters if you're using a digital output, though, and even if you're using an analog output you're not going to notice a world of difference between the Audigy and a decent sound card like say, an Auzentech X-Plosion with OPA637 or AD843s unless you have a solid pair of headphones or amp/speakers to back it up.

If it's between the Audigy and the on-board, take a listen to both and go with whichever one sounds less like a tin can telephone with a loose string.

On the other hand, if you want to throw some money at this start with an Auzentech ($99) or a HT Omega card ($200) and see how you like it. If you want to upgrade from there, the opamps on both cards are socketed and easy to upgrade.

Only the stereo OpAmps are socketed IIRC, plus with any decent SMT soldering skills its not too hard to replace OpAmps on creative cards with something better like LM4562's from national semiconductor(i've done it on a few cards).

But even a cheap audigy will be quite alot better than onboard for analogue out.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. My speaker are just an old 2.1 creative set, nothing fancy.

To echo rive and bomberboys, you may as well just stick with the Audigy then. Unless you want to upgrade the speakers as well, I don't think you're going to get enough of a benefit out of dropping $100 on an Auzentech card for it to be worth it (although if you plan on replacing the speakers later, it might be worth having it then, depending on what you replace the speakers with).

Only the stereo OpAmps are socketed IIRC, plus with any decent SMT soldering skills its not too hard to replace OpAmps on creative cards with something better like LM4562's from national semiconductor(i've done it on a few cards).

They're all socketed on the Auzentech X-Plosion (although that's not the case with all of their cards), and since the HT Omega has 4 sockets on it it's probably safe to assume that the opamps are socketed for every channel on it, too.

You're right about doing the SMT soldering, of course, but unless you go for the Brown Dog single to dual SO8 adapters you're still stuck with stereo opamps. And while some of them (the AD823 and the OPA604 come to mind, I don't recall listening to the 4562s) are respectable, they're still distinctly, noticeably inferior to the AD843 and OPA637-at least to my ear.

And of course you have to factor in other components on the card; how good are the caps on it? How well laid out is the circuit itself? How good is the DAC? etc. I mean, you're right that it can be upgraded, but upgrading an Audigy strikes me as being tantamount to polishing a turd; it can be done, but all you'll have to show for your work is a shiny piece of shit.
 
To echo rive and bomberboys, you may as well just stick with the Audigy then. Unless you want to upgrade the speakers as well, I don't think you're going to get enough of a benefit out of dropping $100 on an Auzentech card for it to be worth it (although if you plan on replacing the speakers later, it might be worth having it then, depending on what you replace the speakers with).



They're all socketed on the Auzentech X-Plosion (although that's not the case with all of their cards), and since the HT Omega has 4 sockets on it it's probably safe to assume that the opamps are socketed for every channel on it, too.

You're right about doing the SMT soldering, of course, but unless you go for the Brown Dog single to dual SO8 adapters you're still stuck with stereo opamps. And while some of them (the AD823 and the OPA604 come to mind, I don't recall listening to the 4562s) are respectable, they're still distinctly, noticeably inferior to the AD843 and OPA637-at least to my ear.

And of course you have to factor in other components on the card; how good are the caps on it? How well laid out is the circuit itself? How good is the DAC? etc. I mean, you're right that it can be upgraded, but upgrading an Audigy strikes me as being tantamount to polishing a turd; it can be done, but all you'll have to show for your work is a shiny piece of shit.
Of course, the main reason i brought the point of the 4562's is that they should be compatible with the stereo OpAmps already on the audigy 2, and national semiconductor will allow a sample of up to 5 of the 4562MA's on one sample "order" (other options that are also available as samples from national that come to mind are the 49860 and 49720, which are nearly identical to the 4562MA's), and between that and spending a few dollars on even something as cheap as a panasonic cap to replace the main filtering capacitor on the audigy 2, your talking less than $5 to vastly improve the quality of the audio coming from the card(the OpAmps used on creative cards are quite simply horrid). Or if you prefer OpAmps from analog devices, the AD8599 is a pin compatible narrow soic OpAmp that i have yet to try in a creative card(planning on picking some up over the summer to try on the X-fi i have here, supposedly much less susceptible to EMI than the 4562MA's that i currently have on it, and from googling on it, it appears that others have had success with the 8599 on the X-fi, which uses the same type of OpAmps in its stock configuration as an audigy 2).
 
Well, first of all, are you using a digital output or are you using analog outputs? Secondly, what speakers/headphones are you using or planning on using?

The Audigy 2 is (likely) a piece of crap. Every Creative card I've ever seen has been garbage from the standpoint of analog audio output quality. I forget what POS opamps were on the Audigy 2 that I canned a few years back but they were cheaper and lower quality than the barely passable JRC5532s that are on the M-Audio Revolutions and a lot of other "high end" cards.

None of this matters if you're using a digital output, though, and even if you're using an analog output you're not going to notice a world of difference between the Audigy and a decent sound card like say, an Auzentech X-Plosion with OPA637 or AD843s unless you have a solid pair of headphones or amp/speakers to back it up.

If it's between the Audigy and the on-board, take a listen to both and go with whichever one sounds less like a tin can telephone with a loose string.

On the other hand, if you want to throw some money at this start with an Auzentech ($99) or a HT Omega card ($200) and see how you like it. If you want to upgrade from there, the opamps on both cards are socketed and easy to upgrade.

The Audigy Series was fine until Creative decided to stop supplying drivers for it. However if you or anyone else happens to get a hold of one I still have the latest drivers that just happen to support OpenAL which makes the cards well worth there price. The on board FireWire controller on the non-Audigy SE models is great for motherboards that lack this feature or have a limited number of expansion slots. Otherwise go with the X-Fi Series since it has better support and Creative ALchemy which restores EAX and 3D audio for Windows Vista.
 
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The Audigy Series was fine until Creative decided to stop supplying drivers for it.

I'm not quite sure you understood my meaning; I wasn't talking about software issues, I was talking about their sound quality on the analog outputs. :) And if you think they're "fine" in that regard... well... that depends entirely on how you define "fine", how good your ears and how good the rest of your audio system is.

If you're deaf and/or using a pair of $29.95 computer speakers, you're absolutely right. They're "fine". "Fine," so long as you don't mind audio that sounds like it's coming through a tin can telephone with a loose string (of course, if you did mind, you wouldn't be using a pair of $30 speakers [or a $300 5.1 system... :rolleyes: ]).

If, on the other hand, your speakers/headphones/amps don't cause me to turn around and walk out of the room laughing on sight (and there are quite a few people around here besides myself who DO have decent-and in many cases, damn good systems), that uses analog inputs, the only place an unmodified Creative card belongs is in the trash can with the rest of the garbage.
 
The Realtek HD 888/889 chipset is incredibly good, and can compete with the best of cards. TBH the reproduction of most cards is nearly the same, you just pay for extra features like EAX and Dolby.

The main downfall of internal sound is Electromagnetic interference or EMI. EMI sounds like hissing and crackling, and results usually when there is no output signal. All internal solutions have this as PC power is dirty. Onboard solutions suffer the worst EMI while pci/pci-e suffer less, but all suffer from it. In fact some cards have gotten so good, most humans cant even notice the EMI.

An external solution with a regulated power source will give you the best sound quality. Not because it is any better at creating the analog sound, but soley because of lack of EMI.

As a note, the difference between the Realtek 888/889 for instance and the Xonar STX is nothing but the latter's lack of noticeable EMI. The latter also has many features like EAX and an amp, which most people will never use.


The notion that one can experience night and day sound quality enhancement from a source device is largely false. Numerous threads on head-fi will suggest the same. If you need the extra features like EAX, then a aftermarket card will do you well. If you can live with the EMI of your Realtek and dont need those features, then what you have is fine.

negating EMI, the Realteks can compete with any aftermarket card out there. They are quite good.

I have a Xonar DX and am largely happy with it. I have blindly tested it against quite expensive dacs and cannot tell the difference, nobody in my immediate circle can as well.


What does matter in sound reproduction quality is headphones and speakers. Going from cheap headphones to good ones will and can make night and day differences.
 
I'm not quite sure you understood my meaning; I wasn't talking about software issues, I was talking about their sound quality on the analog outputs. :) And if you think they're "fine" in that regard... well... that depends entirely on how you define "fine", how good your ears and how good the rest of your audio system is.

If you're deaf and/or using a pair of $29.95 computer speakers, you're absolutely right. They're "fine". "Fine," so long as you don't mind audio that sounds like it's coming through a tin can telephone with a loose string (of course, if you did mind, you wouldn't be using a pair of $30 speakers [or a $300 5.1 system... :rolleyes: ]).

If, on the other hand, your speakers/headphones/amps don't cause me to turn around and walk out of the room laughing on sight (and there are quite a few people around here besides myself who DO have decent-and in many cases, damn good systems), that uses analog inputs, the only place an unmodified Creative card belongs is in the trash can with the rest of the garbage.

As a mater of fact I'm using Creative Megaworks 550 5.1 THX speakers which sound great with the X-Fi or Audigy 2 ZS. I'm sure we can agree that the Audigy series has become obsolete when compared to newer cards especially cards with Optical Digital output. I didn't want to spend thousand of Dollars on a Home theater reciever and speakers, so I'm using a more affordable solution and I have no complaints because I've heard compairable Home Theater setup ups and none of them sound any better if at all. I also agree with you that $20 speaker compared to a decent home theater sounds like crap because I had to deal with that for awhile until I could get my latest 5.1 setup. When I can find something better in the 7.1 category I will purchase them.
 
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The notion that one can experience night and day sound quality enhancement from a source device is largely false. Numerous threads on head-fi will suggest the same. If you need the extra features like EAX, then a aftermarket card will do you well.

I agree with you to an extent. However, there are a whole host of variables-some of which are difficult if not impossible to control for-at play here. The quality of whatever is being played back, be it a MP3, a CD or whatever else. The quality of your preamps and amps, the quality of your speakers and/or headphones, listener preferences, etc. With the garbage equipment that a lot of people use, you're absolutely, 110% right: the difference between one source device and another is negligible at best.

However, I have done blind testing of my own and with decent equipment there is a noticeable difference between various cards and between various opamps on the same card. It is not a night and day difference by any means, as you said, but it is distinguishable, and if you're going to (or already have) spent the money for solid speakers and amps, you might as well squeeze that last 1% out of them, especially when the cards and opamps are so cheap.

What does matter in sound reproduction quality is headphones and speakers. Going from cheap headphones to good ones will and can make night and day differences.

Yes. Absolutely. You can spend all the money you want on a sound card or DAC but if your speakers are garbage the output is going to be garbage, period.

As a mater of fact I'm using Creative Megaworks 550 5.1 THX speakers [...] I've heard compairable Home Theater setup ups and none of them sound any better if at all. I also agree with you that $20 speaker compared to a decent home theater sounds like crap because I had to deal with that for awhile until I could get my latest 5.1 setup. When I can find something better in the 7.1 category I will purchase them.

You seem to consider speaker count and THX certification to be somehow indicative of sound quality. I could be misunderstanding your post, and if I am I apologize, but that's what it sounds like from here. Neither one is a measure of anything except consumer gullibility, and if the home theater systems you've heard are comparable to the Creative speakers there's not much I can tell you other than that you really, really, really need to hear a real sound system (and you need to stop listening to Blows-er, Bose-garbage ;)).

My speakers are 4 feet tall and weigh nearly 100lbs apiece. They're powered by an amplifier that has a continuous power output rating of 270 watts per channel into 8 ohms at a THD of less than 0.03% with both channels driven. The subwoofer consists of 2 12" drivers with a Fs of 23Hz and a sensitivity of 97dB, powered by a separate 1000w amp; they'll do 130dB+ at 30Hz. Total system power is 1540w continuous with enough headroom to accommodate transient spikes of comfortably over 2000 watts without frying the amps. Creative what, now?

If you're using analog outputs and you're at all serious about sound quality (and if you're running a $300 5.1 anything, you're probably not; you'd have spent significantly more than that on a 5.1 system or bought a $300 pair of headphones or 2.0/2.1 system if you were), Creative's cards belong in the round file.

If, on the other hand, you have a "THX Certified" 5.1 system with a shipping weight of 40lbs, that has a frequency response graph resembling something drawn by an unmedicated parkinson's patient with a crayon, whose satellites consist of 3" "full range" drivers (*snerk*) inside plastic boxes with resonance issues and the structural integrity of wet newspaper, and an amp that's very likely rated with only one channel driven at a time, then yes, you might as well stick with the Audigy2. No sound card can fix that system.

And hey, if you're happy with that, more power to you. I've got a set of Logitech Z-680s in my office at work, and a set of Altec ADA-890s in my workroom. Both are THX certified, neither one sounds good. They're tolerable though, and that's all I need for what I use them for, and all I expect out of a bunch of cheap plastic boxes and a low quality sub with a craptacular amp.
 
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I agree with you to an extent. However, there are a whole host of variables-some of which are difficult if not impossible to control for-at play here. The quality of whatever is being played back, be it a MP3, a CD or whatever else. The quality of your preamps and amps, the quality of your speakers and/or headphones, listener preferences, etc. With the garbage equipment that a lot of people use, you're absolutely, 110% right: the difference between one source device and another is negligible at best.

However, I have done blind testing of my own and with decent equipment there is a noticeable difference between various cards and between various opamps on the same card. It is not a night and day difference by any means, as you said, but it is distinguishable, and if you're going to (or already have) spent the money for solid speakers and amps, you might as well squeeze that last 1% out of them, especially when the cards and opamps are so cheap.



Yes. Absolutely. You can spend all the money you want on a sound card or DAC but if your speakers are garbage the output is going to be garbage, period.



You seem to consider speaker count and THX certification to be somehow indicative of sound quality. I could be misunderstanding your post, and if I am I apologize, but that's what it sounds like from here. Neither one is a measure of anything except consumer gullibility, and if the home theater systems you've heard are comparable to the Creative speakers there's not much I can tell you other than that you really, really, really need to hear a real sound system (and you need to stop listening to Blows-er, Bose-garbage ;)).

My speakers are 4 feet tall and weigh nearly 100lbs apiece. They're powered by an amplifier that has a continuous power output rating of 270 watts per channel into 8 ohms at a THD of less than 0.03% with both channels driven. The subwoofer consists of 2 12" drivers with a Fs of 23Hz and a sensitivity of 97dB, powered by a separate 1000w amp; they'll do 130dB+ at 30Hz. Total system power is 1540w continuous with enough headroom to accommodate transient spikes of comfortably over 2000 watts without frying the amps. Creative what, now?

If you're using analog outputs and you're at all serious about sound quality (and if you're running a $300 5.1 anything, you're probably not; you'd have spent significantly more than that on a 5.1 system or bought a $300 pair of headphones or 2.0/2.1 system if you were), Creative's cards belong in the round file.

If, on the other hand, you have a "THX Certified" 5.1 system with a shipping weight of 40lbs, that has a frequency response graph resembling something drawn by an unmedicated parkinson's patient with a crayon, whose satellites consist of 3" "full range" drivers (*snerk*) inside plastic boxes with resonance issues and the structural integrity of wet newspaper, and an amp that's very likely rated with only one channel driven at a time, then yes, you might as well stick with the Audigy2. No sound card can fix that system.

And hey, if you're happy with that, more power to you. I've got a set of Logitech Z-680s in my office at work, and a set of Altec ADA-890s in my workroom. Both are THX certified, neither one sounds good. They're tolerable though, and that's all I need for what I use them for, and all I expect out of a bunch of cheap plastic boxes and a low quality sub with a craptacular amp.

I agree with you about bose and I'm not impressed with something that make all music sound live which is what I've heard about them and My uncle had a bose surround sound system that I got to hear. I dream of one day owning a Denon or Onkyo Receiver with an outstanding set of speakers someday, but I haven't seen anything that impresses me like I used to see with AR (Acoustic Research) for bass. Maybe Klipsch will do, but it something I'll have to look into and as far as treble is there any as good as infinity's emit tweeter anymore, because I have not seen it if there is? By the way good point my speakers are definitely tolerable and I'm well aware that they are not the best money can buy, but they are the one of best rated PC speakers systems. I feel you placing to much blame on the sound card though because the Audigy does support Open AL which is important if your a gamer and My Audigy 2 ZS Platinum has Optical Digital in and Out on the Live Drive. My Creative X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty on my HTPC also has Optical Digital input and Output. Why would anyone need something better than that especially for affordable PC audio they can live with and you need a sound card if your going run it directly to a receiver instead of a set of affordable PC speakers? By the way I can hardly ever use my PC speakers because everyone always complains that these are to loud.
 
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I agree with you to an extent. However, there are a whole host of variables-some of which are difficult if not impossible to control for-at play here. The quality of whatever is being played back, be it a MP3, a CD or whatever else. The quality of your preamps and amps, the quality of your speakers and/or headphones, listener preferences, etc. With the garbage equipment that a lot of people use, you're absolutely, 110% right: the difference between one source device and another is negligible at best.

However, I have done blind testing of my own and with decent equipment there is a noticeable difference between various cards and between various opamps on the same card. It is not a night and day difference by any means, as you said, but it is distinguishable, and if you're going to (or already have) spent the money for solid speakers and amps, you might as well squeeze that last 1% out of them, especially when the cards and opamps are so cheap.



Yes. Absolutely. You can spend all the money you want on a sound card or DAC but if your speakers are garbage the output is going to be garbage, period.



You seem to consider speaker count and THX certification to be somehow indicative of sound quality. I could be misunderstanding your post, and if I am I apologize, but that's what it sounds like from here. Neither one is a measure of anything except consumer gullibility, and if the home theater systems you've heard are comparable to the Creative speakers there's not much I can tell you other than that you really, really, really need to hear a real sound system (and you need to stop listening to Blows-er, Bose-garbage ;)).

My speakers are 4 feet tall and weigh nearly 100lbs apiece. They're powered by an amplifier that has a continuous power output rating of 270 watts per channel into 8 ohms at a THD of less than 0.03% with both channels driven. The subwoofer consists of 2 12" drivers with a Fs of 23Hz and a sensitivity of 97dB, powered by a separate 1000w amp; they'll do 130dB+ at 30Hz. Total system power is 1540w continuous with enough headroom to accommodate transient spikes of comfortably over 2000 watts without frying the amps. Creative what, now?

If you're using analog outputs and you're at all serious about sound quality (and if you're running a $300 5.1 anything, you're probably not; you'd have spent significantly more than that on a 5.1 system or bought a $300 pair of headphones or 2.0/2.1 system if you were), Creative's cards belong in the round file.

If, on the other hand, you have a "THX Certified" 5.1 system with a shipping weight of 40lbs, that has a frequency response graph resembling something drawn by an unmedicated parkinson's patient with a crayon, whose satellites consist of 3" "full range" drivers (*snerk*) inside plastic boxes with resonance issues and the structural integrity of wet newspaper, and an amp that's very likely rated with only one channel driven at a time, then yes, you might as well stick with the Audigy2. No sound card can fix that system.

And hey, if you're happy with that, more power to you. I've got a set of Logitech Z-680s in my office at work, and a set of Altec ADA-890s in my workroom. Both are THX certified, neither one sounds good. They're tolerable though, and that's all I need for what I use them for, and all I expect out of a bunch of cheap plastic boxes and a low quality sub with a craptacular amp.

Agreed on all points, but throwing out 130db at 30Hz is laughable at best, even with 1000/ch, you would be looking at a max of maybe 121db (still banging though).

1 watt = 97db, 2 = 100, 4 = 103, 8 = 106, 16 = 109, 32 = 112, 64 = 115, 128 = 117 256 = 121, 512 = 124, 1024 = 127 < Perfect world.

I use this calculator to find what I can expect in-room http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

Edit: I see you were referring to the subs for the 30Hz. Unless you are using some folded-horn design, I cant see you getting those numbers out of dual 12's.
 
Lol you can't add up the subwoofer and speaker wattage, they are completely separate units and don't contribute to each other's SPL since they play seperate frequencies.
 
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