On Front Panel upgrading, modding

RanceJustice

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Jun 9, 2003
Messages
6,628
Hello everyone. I've been thinking quite a bit about how so many off-the-shelf cases have a static front panel connections kit not designed for upgrade. As I find myself doing increasingly since their absence, the contrast with CaseLabs is significant. For those who were not aware, CaseLabs was a boutique manufacturer of high end cases that were nearly entirely modular - buy another side panel if you wanted to change the window or ventilation, buy a new front fascia to change from air cooling fan mounts and grill to a plexi window to show off your liquid res, and so on. This extended to their front panel connectors as well. Each CaseLabs case had separate often "vandal style" power and reset buttons as well as LEDs for power/drive activity, and then separate from that the Front Panel connections. USB, Headphone / Mic 3.5s , FireWire (for a time), HDMI etc... were not only present, but upgradable. CaseLabs offered upgrade kits so that users who bought during the USB 2.0 days would not be stuck there and could upgrade to USB 3.0 ports instead, or possibly even further - with the latest entries before they shut down offering USB 3.1/3.2 both TypeA and Type C, plus HDMI and more - depending on the particular case model, the layout and upgrade kit would differ of course (ie My Mercury S8's front panel configuration was more "square" than the long rectangular configuration on a Magnum SMA8-A or TX10 ).

This upgradability is a rarity however when it comes to the vast majority of off the shelf mass produced cases, regardless of the increasing expense we see from even "conventional" manuacturers. I must give one notably pleasing nod to Corsair back years ago when they offered "upgrade kits" for their (at the time, top tier ) Corsair Obsidian 800D. The 800D launched with a SATA 3.0gbps backplane for its drive connectors and USB 2.0 inputs for the front panel, but Corsair thankfully offered reasonably priced upgrade kits to replace the SATA backplane and connectors with full SATA 6.0gbps connections and one to replace the front panel equipping it with USB 3.0 ports (as as sign of the times, they were pass-throughs that needed to connect to the back of the mobo as on-board USB 3.0 headers were not yet universal. Retaining the FireWire port also is a reminder of the era). However, outside of a few exceptions like this it seems that despite increasing case prices and features, they're not designed with upgrade in mind, or even to be modified without serious potential damage to the aesthetic. Take for instance the LianLi DK-05F desk case - a magnificent enclosure to be sure with a $2000-ish price to match (it IS both a powered height adjustable desk and enclosure capable of housing at least 2 full size PCs after all), but its front panels on both sides seem wedged into the aluminum fascia. One thing that stopped me from such an investment is that I'm going to buy a $2000 desk, I expect it to last even when next generation USB 4.0 40gbps, DisplayPort / HDMI etc.. arrive. However, it seems not to be designed to allow for easy changes in this regard and there isn't much of a precedent of LianLi offering a ready-made upgrade kit either. Is it only a dying breed of ultra-niche boutique enclosures that support such things? Its worth noting that in years past even if you didn't get an upgrade kit for your front panel, you could still buy an after-market 5.25" bay or 3.5" bay device offering whatever was deficient - USB ports of the next generation etc. These days, most cases eschew external bays at all so even such things aren't possible without extensive modding

So this brings me to thinking about the do-it-yourself angle these days. Has anyone manually upgraded their front panel connections , ideally without destructive modding if possible? Where did you procure the latest gen ports, control boards, and cables to mount as a suitable replacement - were they somewhat prepared, or did you have to solder something together on your own? Does anyone even bother with such things these days? What's your experience?
 
I put a Reset button into the bezel of my Lian Li 011 Dynamic Razer Edition. It was a mini Bulgin type w/ LED ring. This gave me Reset functionality and HDD Activity, which the case was lacking. Also done is use one of those USC 3.0 Header to USC C Front Panel Header dongles on the motherboard to be able to use my 011 Dynamic USB C Front Panel port with an ASUS x99 Deluxe II motherboard... handy device for those that want to use a USC Front Panel port, but there is no header on the motherboard for it.
The mini Bulgin switch is black and about 5/8 " in dia. ... so it blends in well with the case. Mounted just below the USB C front panel port, so it looks pleasing.
 
I have been thinking about modding my Air 740 case with a USB-C connector on the front.
My case has a small removable panel on the front for some option that never appeared.
That panel has the Nvidia G-Sync sticker on it,

IMG_0342.JPEG
 
I put a Reset button into the bezel of my Lian Li 011 Dynamic Razer Edition. It was a mini Bulgin type w/ LED ring. This gave me Reset functionality and HDD Activity, which the case was lacking. Also done is use one of those USC 3.0 Header to USC C Front Panel Header dongles on the motherboard to be able to use my 011 Dynamic USB C Front Panel port with an ASUS x99 Deluxe II motherboard... handy device for those that want to use a USC Front Panel port, but there is no header on the motherboard for it.
The mini Bulgin switch is black and about 5/8 " in dia. ... so it blends in well with the case. Mounted just below the USB C front panel port, so it looks pleasing.

Very nice, this is notable given its a recent and very popular case. So for the reset button and activity LED, did you purchase it connector ready (ie it had both a mobo-ready cable and pin-compatible connectors for the power/reset + LED activity?) or did you have to essentially build it yourself (buy the bulgin switch bare, solder on your cables + connectors etc? How about for your USB front panel port cable? When installing in your LianLi case (which I assume even the newer ones are still using aluminum), did you just need to drill or was it more involved? Did you need to fashion a new mount or stabilizer of some sort? I'm actually thinking about getting a "reverse" adapter for my old 800D which is soon to house my upgraded home server/NAS type box, because as I mentioned its front panel USB 3.0 connectors are just 2 standard USB 3.0 Type A plugs, intended to pop out the watercooling grommets in the back of the case and connect to the mobo; thus, I'm looking for an adapter that I can use to plug them into the mobo's front panel / internal USB 3.x header, so I can avoid the whole passthrough thing if possible. In any event, glad your mod came out well!

I have been thinking about modding my Air 740 case with a USB-C connector on the front.
My case has a small removable panel on the front for some option that never appeared.
That panel has the Nvidia G-Sync sticker on it,

It seems like a place like that would be ideal, since you don't have to worry about other stuff nearby. Looking at the layout of your other front inputs and buttons highlight the problems I was talking about with a lot of cases - I imagine it would be very difficult to swap out those USB 3.0 type A's for type C's or otherwise upgrade/change them. Is that removable plate below a 3.5" external bay? You may be able to slot in a bay device to at least hold the USB-C, if not an entirely prefabbed USB-C hub/splitter like https://www.newegg.com/en-labs-35fpu32puc2p-usb/p/0J2-00G2-00021 ?
 
Very nice, this is notable given its a recent and very popular case. So for the reset button and activity LED, did you purchase it connector ready (ie it had both a mobo-ready cable and pin-compatible connectors for the power/reset + LED activity?) or did you have to essentially build it yourself (buy the bulgin switch bare, solder on your cables + connectors etc? How about for your USB front panel port cable? When installing in your LianLi case (which I assume even the newer ones are still using aluminum), did you just need to drill or was it more involved? Did you need to fashion a new mount or stabilizer of some sort? I'm actually thinking about getting a "reverse" adapter for my old 800D which is soon to house my upgraded home server/NAS type box, because as I mentioned its front panel USB 3.0 connectors are just 2 standard USB 3.0 Type A plugs, intended to pop out the watercooling grommets in the back of the case and connect to the mobo; thus, I'm looking for an adapter that I can use to plug them into the mobo's front panel / internal USB 3.x header, so I can avoid the whole passthrough thing if possible. In any event, glad your mod came out well!



It seems like a place like that would be ideal, since you don't have to worry about other stuff nearby. Looking at the layout of your other front inputs and buttons highlight the problems I was talking about with a lot of cases - I imagine it would be very difficult to swap out those USB 3.0 type A's for type C's or otherwise upgrade/change them. Is that removable plate below a 3.5" external bay? You may be able to slot in a bay device to at least hold the USB-C, if not an entirely prefabbed USB-C hub/splitter like https://www.newegg.com/en-labs-35fpu32puc2p-usb/p/0J2-00G2-00021 ?
I did a Post about it a while back...
Um, I bought the mini Bulgin switch bare and already had a bare front panel switch and wire & LED set on hand.... soldered them up and drilled a hole in the case. Turned out less than Perfect, but only if you look really close. The thing I had to keep in mind is it aligns slightly off the centerline of the bezel if you keep it inline with the I/O port module.... have to measure and figure out where you will drill... visually it's still pleasing.
Um, the only thing I kept in mind that was extra... was to use a longer wiring harness for this perticular case, to keep the wires from not obstructing the side intake fans and have them follow the I/O wiring harness wires. Kind of goes up and around then back down, like the rest of the case wires.
I did not need to fashion a mount for the mini Bulgin type switch. Just drill the hole. thread the rubber O-Ring behind the bezel onto the barrel of the switch once wires were soldered and screw on the nut tight. Careful measurement of where you'll drill is essential. Remember to tape up and empty the case. Cover the I/O ports, if you don't remove the I/O module... metal bits can get in the port if you don't. My situation, it was not feasible to remove the I/O module. Lian Li did not make it easy to remove it on the 011 Dynamic Razer Edition.
Break out the Dremel and have fun... with some planning.
 
modding front panels has been a thing forever; new leds, switches, adding usb-c, cigrit lighters etc. get creative, get [H]ard!
 
Very nice, this is notable given its a recent and very popular case. So for the reset button and activity LED, did you purchase it connector ready (ie it had both a mobo-ready cable and pin-compatible connectors for the power/reset + LED activity?) or did you have to essentially build it yourself (buy the bulgin switch bare, solder on your cables + connectors etc? How about for your USB front panel port cable? When installing in your LianLi case (which I assume even the newer ones are still using aluminum), did you just need to drill or was it more involved? Did you need to fashion a new mount or stabilizer of some sort? I'm actually thinking about getting a "reverse" adapter for my old 800D which is soon to house my upgraded home server/NAS type box, because as I mentioned its front panel USB 3.0 connectors are just 2 standard USB 3.0 Type A plugs, intended to pop out the watercooling grommets in the back of the case and connect to the mobo; thus, I'm looking for an adapter that I can use to plug them into the mobo's front panel / internal USB 3.x header, so I can avoid the whole passthrough thing if possible. In any event, glad your mod came out well!



It seems like a place like that would be ideal, since you don't have to worry about other stuff nearby. Looking at the layout of your other front inputs and buttons highlight the problems I was talking about with a lot of cases - I imagine it would be very difficult to swap out those USB 3.0 type A's for type C's or otherwise upgrade/change them. Is that removable plate below a 3.5" external bay? You may be able to slot in a bay device to at least hold the USB-C, if not an entirely prefabbed USB-C hub/splitter like https://www.newegg.com/en-labs-35fpu32puc2p-usb/p/0J2-00G2-00021 ?
it's not a bay, it's just a cover and behind it is the chassis. the front panel IO is on a board that is mounted to the chassis, I do have a spare one of those as I had an issue with the power LED not working all the time on the case and corsair accidentally sent me the IO panel instead of the LED module, so I have both sitting here. never got around to installing the LED module, lol.

carbide 740 io panel - CC_8900017.png
carbide 740 power switch - CC_8900016.png
 
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