lol never thought of them that way, when i used to do air cooling i always thought they looked badass thoWally said:zalman deathstar
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lol never thought of them that way, when i used to do air cooling i always thought they looked badass thoWally said:zalman deathstar
Russ said:Yea, looks ok (big!), but of course I can find about 2 billion different cases with that ventilation system.
Russ said:The two cases in this thread interest me b/c of the dual 120mm exhaust (my primary concern). I'm guessing they are going to be available for the Back to School rush.
BossNoodleKaboodle said:TT PSU's are GARBAGE. DON'T buy into their labeled specifications!!! They are SO innacurate its not even funny.
jonnyGURU said:Again, the TWV500's fan is quiet without the fan controller, but there are quieter ones out there. And, yes; they are expensive. But if someone WANTS to spend the money on one, I'm not going to say it's garbage. Just because something is overpriced doesn't make it garbage.
BossNoodleKaboodle said:Why would you WANT to spend money on something that's not a good value?
Russ said:Water cooling will allow me to safely OC my CPU and GPU a lot. To me that makes it worth it because 1 OCing is fun, and 2 I don't pay a lot of money on a proc (I would say GPU too, but I'm spending a hell of a lot on it anyway, it'll just be that much better. GPUs are different.).
The 3800+ is $369. With air cooling you can probably OC it to 2.6-2.8 ghz. If I get a 3000+ for $120 and water cool it, I am pretty much assured of 2.7 ghz or so. Same performance, no? And I save $240 AND it's quieter. That makes watercooling worth it to me.
With peltiers, you may have a point with the extra work needed for insulating and an extra psu able to supply the necessary amps to power a larger pelt, but none of what you're saying applies to regualr water cooling. Pumps only use 10-20 watts, so I'm pretty sure that won't make much of an impact on your electricity bill. Loops can last through many upgrades by purchasing any needed additional mounting plates for new hardware, while the cpu & hsf quite possibly will have to be replaced after an upgrade, especially when changing platforms. For pure and simple pricing, air will almost always be less. The question is which option gives you more value.BossNoodleKaboodle said:Well if you're looking for best cost/value ratio I wouldn't even go with a water cooled setup.
It's more of a novelty than a necessity unless you're running a supercomputer that has thousands of processors which are densely packed. i.e. a waste of money for PC users in general.
It's more of a novelty really and it uses a ton of power to boot, so if you've got it on all the time your electric bill will be noticably larger. It is a cool thing to say you have I guess, but at the PC level, little more than that in the end.
That price for the loop is also cooling a gpu, enabling higher potential OCs there as well as the cpu. Unless you've been living under a rock the last couple of months, you would have seen almost all reviews of Venices OCing to 2.7 or much higher with better cooling, such as water cooling. Yes, there is no assurance of getting to 2.0 on a 3000+ Venice, but that is part of the fun in OCing, something you obviously don't have much appreciation for.BossNoodleKaboodle said:How do you figure its cheaper? 120 for CPU+260 for WC is 380 dollars. that's 10 dollars more than the 3800+...
There's no such thing as an "assured" or "safe" overclock either. It's a risk you're taking in the hope that you'll gain some performance from it.
and isBossNoodleKaboodle said:more of a novelty than a necessity unless you're running a supercomputer that has thousands of processors which are densely packed. i.e. a waste of money for PC users in general.
So ends my much too long post .BossNoodleKaboodle said:more of a novelty really and it uses a ton of power to boot, so if you've got it on all the time your electric bill will be noticably larger. It is a cool thing to say you have I guess, but at the PC level, little more than that in the end.
Russ said:well, eATX isn't part of the ventilation system. To name a few cheap ones, the Aerocool Magic 3D and Thermaltake Tsunami.
BossNoodleKaboodle said:Has anyone actually seen and touched an Aerocool or Tsunami? I have and I was disgusted at all the bits you can just break off with your finger.
BossNoodleKaboodle said:You'll want to get some serious axle grease for those hinges too. *squeak squeak* Not to mention the gap spacing regularity is on par with a Yugo. I've never handled that Gigabyte case, but I'd be willing to wager its much better than either of the others.
Russ said:about the mounting, in the back yeah. I'll take out the 1000 rpm stuff they ship it with and mount it with my panaflos + BIP2.
You can see that I am very close to finishing buying everything here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=898255
I am going to use my old case to fit everythign in for now and buy the Gigabyte when it comes out. We are getting some prices in several different places. The most common is $130 or 85 pounds. One site said $100 though. I doubt it will be that low
Ya, I know a guy that did that.Swimming_Bird said:holy shit you gave me such a good idea (prolly unoriginal) why not mod one of those old crappy filing cabnets for my computer and radbox.
Russ said:well what I mean is I'll probably have both the rad and fans inside the case, with the fans sucking air out the back. I'll have the 120mm in front sucking air in, and I'll probably have a spare fan blowing air over the ram (mounted completely inside the case, maybe taped to the side.)
The grate on the side will let in any air that needs to, if I have air being sucked through the rad, then it will come from the air right behind the rad in the case, right? That's right next to the grate, so cool air will probably be coming to the rad even though it's inside the case!
That cool air would be warm in any other case because the CPU and GPU will have heated it up since it would have flowed across the entire mobo.
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