OCZ Modstream 450w

smut

[H]ard|Gawd
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Aug 10, 2005
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I need to replace the shitty raidmax PSU that came with this case for this multiplayer LAN box socket A I built recently. Is this PSU reliable? Its on sale so thats why I want to get it. So would you recommend it?
 
Oh well, went ahead and ordered it. Im sure it will be fine for what im using it for. Now if it was a power hungry A64 i'd be definetely getting something better.
 
Any OCZ PSU is a great choice. The 520w would be more future proof but im sure the 450w will do just as fine- even if you had an A64 system.
 
$20 rebate at monarch so its originally $74, 54 after rebate.
 
The 520w wasnt on sale. but I didnt want to spend that much on a PSU for this system anyway. The 450w will be sufficient. and already have a psu for the 64 system. I wouldnt want to run a 450w on a SLI system tho but a basic 64 system would be fine. Thanks for your opinions, I knew OCZ makes great PSUs, but I had seen some guy say the modstream 450w was a POS but I doubted that.
 
Yeah, it's a pretty good one. I've got one in my X2 system and it's very quite and my system has been very stable. Not a bad price either!! :cool:

Mr.Dearthian
 
Dillusion said:
Any OCZ PSU is a great choice. The 520w would be more future proof but im sure the 450w will do just as fine- even if you had an A64 system.
It adds power to the largely unused +5V. I don't really see how it is anymore "futureproof" than the leaner and cheaper 450W Modstream.
 
Cool, well I ordered saturday and got 2 day shipping so it should be here hopefully tuesday or wednesday. I heard that the modular cables are really stiff. Are they as stiff as ppl claimed or what? And one more question, only the ends of the cables are UV reactive right? thats what it looks like.


This cheap raidmax psu that came with this case really sucks and is holdin this particular system back, ecspecially my OCing. I'm up to 2.3 ghz but any higher isnt really stable and sometimes the psu just resets the system. Ive narrowed it down to the PSU because thats the only shitty peice in the system. Temps are never over 43ish at 2.4 and I got awesome g skill TCCD ram so that is not the problem either.
See what happened is that I actually built it for a 'friend' but he still hasnt come up with the money and is bullshittin bout it so I am not waitin' any longer an im keepin it for myself because it is a nice build for a 32 bit system which is why I put some more money into the graphics and the PSU. i'm going it use it as a multiplayer box so when a friend comes over they can hop on that comp and we can play multiplayer either over LAN or regular public servers.

edited my post a little bit
 
smut said:
Cool, well I ordered saturday and got 2 day shipping so it should be here hopefully tuesday or wednesday. This cheap raidmax psu that came with this case really sucks and is holdin this particular system back, ecspecially my OCing. im up to 2.3 ghz but any higher isnt really stable and sometimes the psu just resets the system. Ive narrowed it down to the PSU because thats the only shitty peice in the system. Well actually built it for a friend but he still hasnt come up with the money and is bullshittin bout it so I am not waitin' anymore an im keepin it for myself which is why I put some more money into.
And i'm going it use it as a multiplayer box so when a friend comes over they can hop on that comp and we can play multiplayer on games together either over LAN or regular servers.

I heard that the modular cables are really stiff. Are they as stiff as ppl claimed or what? And one more question, only the ends of the cables are UV reactive right? thats what it looks like.

Yeah the MOBO cables are pretty dang stiff, put nothing you can't put alittle elbow grease on! and yeah i believe the heat shrink and the connectors are UV reactive, at least they look it.
 
Can you break in the cables like a new girlfriends punani? hahahaah
 
Can you tell me if this PSU will be enough for my system plus a 7800GT? lol...
 
Dillusion said:
Any OCZ PSU is a great choice. The 520w would be more future proof but im sure the 450w will do just as fine- even if you had an A64 system.

the Modstreams arent that great compared to the Powerstreams

cut and paste
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


davidhammock200 said:
ModStream = bling!

PowerStream = Quality & lot more useful +12V amperage & 1% regulation & adjustable rails & a 5yr warranty. ;)

the 1% regulation is "claimed" but not substantiated, they are Topower P6's made for OCZ and are listed as 3% by Topower
the real crossload chart for the now defunct 470 and the 520 being

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/powerful-psu_11.html

ocz1.gif

ocz2.gif


which just kicks ass over the Modstreams which look like this
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/other/display/atx-psu_11.html

ocz3.gif


to actually determine where your rig would fall in those charts youd need to workup your numbers > http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=844691
the "worse case senerio runtime draw" take the combined wattage for the +3.3V & +5V listed in the calculator which would be the vertical scale


then with the figure youve adjusted* for the +12V draw in amps convert it to watts
(amps X volts(in this case 12) = watts) and use that as your horizontal scale
that would be your "highpoint" on the scale, and then back down to some idle draw likely near or below 50\50
(* meaning you have reduced the amp draw of everything that spins to 1\4 of the value listed)

the Powerstreams are considered near perfect supplies
the Modstreams are merely "typical" and cover the likely area for your config and no more
failing to even meet "spec" and offering little backward compatibility to older specs that you might eventually want to power (P3 or AMD without a +12V mobo connector)

PS dont go crazy with the rail adjustment on the Powerstreams the LEDs arent a good indicator of the voltage
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article173-page4.html
For the 12V and 5V lines the adjustment range is up or down 10%, while for the 3.3V line, it is even bigger, ~15% up or down. The range of adjustment provided is quite large, probably too large for safety, in my opinion. Especially when voltage is set too high, the life of components can be seriously shortened. Also, trim pots change value with temperature and age.

But the LED indicators help to avoid problems. The voltage adjustment is made with a small screwdriver. A plastic sticker over the trim post must be removed first. When the voltage falls within the +,-5% range, the LED directly below the trim pot glows green. Above that, it glows red; below that, it glows yellow.

Tested against a fairly accurate multimeter, the LEDs generally glowed green within +,-5% of the target voltage. This seems too loose a tolerance. When the 12V LED is green it could be 11.4V or 12.6V. A 2% range for green would have been more useful, especially for the performance oriented user interested in such adjustments. I'd recommend using a multimeter at the terminals of an unused output connector to tweak the voltages instead. This should be done while the computer is running. Naturally, care must be taken to avoid shorts.
use a multimeter to calibrate ;)
 
Z(+)DIAC said:
Can you break in the cables like a new baseball mit? hahahaah

Use a heat gun or hair dryer to make the plastic more flexible......bend to fit....let cool.
 
So again, was it a mistake for me to purchase this PSU for my next build? I'm not looking to use it for a "Super Computer" but just something mid-level for my first PCI-E build.
 
_Korruption_ said:
It adds power to the largely unused +5V. I don't really see how it is anymore "futureproof" than the leaner and cheaper 450W Modstream.

For those... umm... 5V only drives like a laptop uses that everyone is going to. And didn't you hear PCI-e was going to start using 5V instead of 12V because the Pentium D's were sucking up too much of the 12V rail?
 
Z(+)DIAC said:
So again, was it a mistake for me to purchase this PSU for my next build? I'm not looking to use it for a "Super Computer" but just something mid-level for my first PCI-E build.

I thought someone else was asking about this PSU...what is your build? I didn't see it when I reskimmed the thread.
 
Spectre said:
I thought someone else was asking about this PSU...what is your build? I didn't see it when I reskimmed the thread.

Well I haven't figured out all the components yet. I am basically going to make the transition from AGP to PCI-E in January. I'm probably going to keep my current CPU (AMD 3000+) and maybe my ram (but will get another 1gb). I'm still undecided on the card and mobo. I was thinking of either going with the Nforce4 from BFG or MSI (no SLI). Card wise it's a split between a 7800gt or 7800gs (I want to see the pricing of this before I decide).

So as you can see, nothing to serious.

I'm using a True Power 380w for my current build and it's definitely efficient.
 
Z(+)DIAC said:
Well I haven't figured out all the components yet. I am basically going to make the transition from AGP to PCI-E in January. I'm probably going to keep my current CPU (AMD 3000+) and maybe my ram (but will get another 1gb). I'm still undecided on the card and mobo. I was thinking of either going with the Nforce4 from BFG or MSI (no SLI). Card wise it's a split between a 7800gt or 7800gs (I want to see the pricing of this before I decide).

So as you can see, nothing to serious.

I'm using a True Power 380w for my current build and it's definitely efficient.

You should be good then.
 
jonnyGURU said:
For those... umm... 5V only drives like a laptop uses that everyone is going to. And didn't you hear PCI-e was going to start using 5V instead of 12V because the Pentium D's were sucking up too much of the 12V rail?
You're obviously kidding about the laptop drives, I'm presuming/hoping you're kidding about the 5V PCIe connector as well.

The new PCIe standard will allow 150W to be delivered through the PEG slot, and that's available to EACH card, without even considering SLI. 150W/12V=12.5A, whereas 150W/5V=30A just for a video card.

That, and it'll ruin backwards compatibility with modern cards, which require two +12V pins to be connected for power.

OP:
Love my ModStream520W, although I'll be selling mine when I have the cash for SLI. I think I'll be cutting it close as it is, between 2 opticals, 2 HDs, an OC'd 7800GT, and a 2.6GHz Venice.
 
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