New WC setup - EK barb questions.

N

NordicRX8

Gawd
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
947
Hi all,
Thanks for lookin in.
I finally took the "Plunge" a purchased a WC "kit". It was through Petra's (MAD PROPS to ALEX for the excellent service and support he has provided!).

I ended up getting the PetraTech's CoolKit Elite: http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecoel.html
The main reason for that kit was the Storm (rev 2) CPU waterblock. I also picked up a Swiftech MCW60 GPU block... I decided against the NB block as well as anything with a lucite top (no offense - DD fans).

Alex was kind enough to upgrade two pairs of the barbs with EK 1/2" barbs. I've already asked Alex, what I needed to do to install the EK barbs to the Storm and was told to use the Storm's O-rings in conjunction with the built in O-rings on the EK barbs to ensure a good seal. I did that.

So the question I have is... where would you use the other pair of EK barbs? GPU waterblock? Raidiator? Resevoir? (also got the Swiftech Mircores). I assume if I use the barbs on a fitting where there's a recess (like the STORM), I should use additional O-rings, but if the contact surface is not recessed (raidiator), then the built in O-ring on the EK barb is sufficient. Also... since the threading is shorter on the EK barbs, do you guys who have them still use teflon tape (or other thread sealant)?

TIA!

P.S. everything has had its vinegar bath, and distilled water rinsings.. I'll be leak testing the system tomorrow and hopefully OC'n the hell outta my Opty very soon.
 
Well, of course you bought from Petra's. Why would anyone buy from anywhere else? :)

To answer your questions, the o-ring supplied with the fittings should be adequate for just about any component. In fact, I don't see the necessity in using two o-rings to seal the fittings to the Storm's top plate (though Alex probably knows better than I do at this point), but it's certainly not bad advice. Thread sealant with an o-ring isn't necessary, either, but it's certainly fine to use both if you don't intend to change fittings frequently. In my experience, the most likely source of leaks is from the fittings, but sometimes not from the threading itself. With the multi-barb fittings like Eddy's, make sure you have your tubing clamped properly. I recommend rocking the tubing onto the fitting, rather than twisting it, and applying downward force as you tighten the clamp. If not clamped properly, the tubing end may flare and leak.

As for where to replace the fittings, that's entirely up to you. I for one really like the fittings that ship with the Swiftech stuff (they're good), so use them wherever you think they'll be most aesthetically pleasing.
 
I can see your enthusiasm for your new setup. If I understand you correctly you want to install the EK G1/4 Barbs to the MCW60? Yes, it can be done. I have 7900GT's with MCW-60's in SLI using the G1/4 barbs on both blocks. Note that you need to remove the o-ring that came with the barbs and replace them with the O-rings that came with the MCW-60. The Block has thicker and wider o-rings that do create a seal. You don't have to double up the o-rings either. Just make sure not to overtighten the barbs on the mcw-60. Tighten them by hand (using a rubber jar opener or some slightly damp cloth as a gripping mechanism and tighten the by hand as hard as you can. I guess you could follow up with a pair of pliers and give it a turn by a millimeter or 2 but be careful if you tighten that much. Those threads on the barbs are actually different but can be used as long as you don't tighten them too much. You should be ok using a pair of pliers to tighten the barbs onto the storm (rev 2, in my case), but again no more than just tight enought for a moderate twist. Mine have been in for 40 days with no leaks like this. Remember using the orignal o-ring only for both storm and MCW-60. It would be best if you could get digital calipers and measure the inside and outside diamers of the rings plus the thickness of them. This way you can get cheap replacements at ACE hardware. If you get the dimensions please post them here for my use too. I don't have calipers. I did not use any teflon tape on any of my ek barbs and have no issues either. I chose not to use any clamps on my system since I'm using 7/16 tygon and mcmaster tubing over the barbs which I find very difficult to rip off. In fact my resovoir just recent unvelcro-ed itself from the case and is hangin from the tube with these barbs/tubing and no problems.
 
most of what has been written here so far is good to go, but allow me to offer some quick clarifications and responses.


  • You cannot use EK barbs on your Radiator. your rad uses a larger threading

    For the storm block (as well as the apogee fwiw) you must use the Swiftech supplied O-rings, to have them sit in the recess. the EK barbs (with their built in O-ring) will simply seal on top of that. This is the most common and safe way

    EK barbs will work in a variety of ways on other blocks like the MCW60 (see above for tips on how), MCW30, etc

    You are correct about the MicroRes, since there is no recess, just screw the EK barb right on

    G1/4 fittings like what you have now, are built to be sealed NOT by the thread but by the O-ring. Conversely, NSP american threads like whats on your Rad for instance and in your house is built to be sealed by the threading and thus must always have a coating of teflon tape/plumbers tape/etc

other than that: congrats, you got an awesome kit, good pricing too. just follow the instructions you got with it which should also be on the swiftie site and you should have no problems at all. biggest thign is to flush the radiator, new or not. if you start with a flushed rad you shoudl have very lil problems if any at all for a long time.
 
Thanks for the replies... they were very informative. As of 90 minutes ago... the WC system is installed and going through the 24hr leak test. The wife hates that I've taken over the breakfast bar, but she knows it's only until the end of this weekend.

:)
 
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