New to watercooling

Rossi~

2[H]4U
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Dec 8, 2008
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Specs in sig and want to watercool CPU only.
I expect the answer to be the Corsair H50, but any other suggestions are welcome.
 
I have personally never been a fan of those little kits. If i was you I would save the money and build the loop yourself instead of buying a pre-built cosair loop. Just my personal opinion...

Don't be scared to build a loop for your first time either. There are plenty of people willing to help on these forums and it won't cost you 2 much more than the cosair H50 that you are looking at right now. also if you decide to add your NB and GPU later on you can easily do that if you build your own loop.
 
If you wan't real watercooling, just get everything in this list. It has everything you need.

Newegg is out of the CPU block, however, here's one.

You'll need the 1366 retention module, Newegg has it $5, which is cheaper then Performance PC.

Also, I would get some Artic Silver 5. The paste that comes with the CPU block isn't the greatest.

If you don't want lower temps, better looks, or the ability to w/c gpu's/nb sb/mosfets then, yes get the Corsair H50. Nothing against the H50, but it's far from actual 'watercooling'. I had one myself before I bought watercooling, it gave me the itch to do the real thing, lol.

Anyways, gl.
 
Corsair H50 is pretty much the low end side of watercooling. I'm not even sure it can run a i7 overclocked, so whats the point? For a triple radiator, pump, res, and waterblocks for cpu/gpu, you are looking at about 450$ just for the watercooling , but that would be a pretty good setup. Anything lower than that, you might as well just aircool it and save the money. If you wanted to spend a little bit more money, you would run 2 loops one for cpu, one for gpu, and that would add about another 250$. It is definitely not cheap , but you can reuse the radiators, fittings, pumps, reservoirs, and maybe the cpu blocks on rebuilds. And you would definitely need a higher end triple radiator such as a thermochill, feser, or xspc to be able to cool both of those blocks.
 
Cheers guys for the confidence there :)
First off being a WC virgin, im gonna ask this question: What's the chance of it leaking all of a sudden and frazzling everything?

The Corsair H50 has shown to be on par and sometimes beat top end heatsinks when running on an overclocked i7 chip. But yes i know for a fact it's nothing to what i could really build, just thought of it as a starting point maybe? But i dont mind jumping into the deep end and building a small loop.

Also just to add, i don't want to go and buy a new case and im in the UK so no newegg for me.

I was thinking a single good rad with a 1200RPM 120mm fan http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-021-SY&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=4, how well could that cool using this block? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-008-HK&groupid=962&catid=1519&subcat=

This rad ok? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-000-TO&groupid=962&catid=1523&subcat=1524
 
if you are JUST going to cool your CPU you should be OK with that stuff I would think. Remember, You also need a Reservoirs and a Pump.

The chances of leaking are very small. When you hook up your system you just need hose clamps at the end of all your hoses and test is for leaks before you turn everything on.
 

The CPU block will work, I've never used it. I also read that it doesn't come with a back plate. Defiantly get a back plate, CPU blocks + Water aren't the lightest, so the motherboard might bend a little.

I would try to find an Enzotech Sapphire Rev. A. with the 1366 retention module, if I were you. It's only 35-40 bucks in the US, and performs better then the Apogee GTZ. That's around 25.7 euros. I don't know about inflation or w/e in the UK.

Don't get a single rad just for the cpu, waste of money. http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-023-BX, it is a triple rad, for 1 euro cheaper :D.
A triple rad will be able to dissipate heat better, meaning lower temp's and possibly a higher overclock. I would only use a single rad for mosfets/nb/sb. And maybe just in the loop along with another rad to help with temps. Not a 4ghz i7.

Since it's a Stealth rad, 38mm fans are best. However, I use the normal 25mm fans and I get 52-55C on load. So it's not 'necessary', it's not a bad thing to have the better fans. Those fan's will work, you'll just 3 of them. I use 88 CFM Yate Loons.

You'll need a pump. You could get the OCZ Hydro Pump. Although this looks interesting.. Pump + Res all in one. I can't say I would use it. It doesn't move as much water, but just cooling the cpu. If you were going to cool anything else in the future, i would get the OCZ pump, or an equivalent.

You'll need a res, and if you want to save space/money, I would just go with a T-Line. Just need these two things. T Connector, and Fillport.

Here's some 1/2 OD tubing. Remember hose clamps. ;)

I think there might be a difference in sizes in comparison between, USA and the UK. So just keep that in mind. Just make sure all the sizes are the same, e.g. all barbs, tubing, fittings, etc. all say 1/2 OD or 7/16. I think the answer to that is in the FAQ. Also if you want to more room in your case don't get 1/2 OD it's defiantly one of the larger tubing's. However 1/2 OD has more water flow.

GL man. Don't worry about leaks, just have some paper towels on hand and if you decide to go with the T-Line setup, use a funnel to pour the coolant in.
 
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Thanks for the info, especially on the block, tubing and pumps! :)
Though for the rad, im stuck with a single, i am going to be using the Antec 900 and don't want to get modding the case for a double or triple rad.
 
No problem. Looks like I inserted an Image instead of an url. Fixed it :D

You won't need any modding if you use a radbox. Just screw on to the back of the case and put the rad on it.

Seriously though. 120mm's rad's aren't worth when you can get lower/betters with a 360mm rad for the same price. There's 2 videos on youtube (I'd post them, but youtube is blocked), showing how to install water cooling with the T-Line setup. In the last vid, towards the end, in they said they got around 5C lower then the TRUE. Not worth it, unless you get a triple, or even a double, rad.

GL
 
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I Would have to back King up on just about everything. But if you have your mind made up and you dont want to mount the radiator on the back of the case the single radiator WOULD work, just would be better to have the triple radiator :p
 
I Would have to back King up on just about everything. But if you have your mind made up and you dont want to mount the radiator on the back of the case the single radiator WOULD work, just would be better to have the triple radiator :p

Quite, lol.
Even better if i used this externally -- http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-009-AQ&groupid=962&catid=1523&subcat=1528
With 9 of these -- http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-022-SY
Though will probably need one hell of a pump.

But yes you're right, i want to keep this all internal on just the CPU, that will then get the temperature down in the case and since the P6T Deluxe has no heat issues even @ 211 BCLK with raised chipset voltages i think it's pointless watercooling the chipset.
The only other thing i may water cool at somepoint is the graphics card because im waiting to get an ATi 58** series which are loud, or maybe wait a little longer for the nVidia 3** series. but this won't be for a while yet.
 
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