• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

new to the cool....

T

Tech-Daddy

Gawd
Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Messages
514
;)

Hey guys. Creating my first water cooled setup (yaayyyy!)

I'm scouring the forum and reading the GREAT informative posts that have been made here, but I keep running into a confusing point:

For moderate to heavy overclocking (dependant upon equipment used) is there *that* much difference in performance between 3/8 and 1/2 ID systems?

Also, I know head pressure is an all important factor to be considered when extending your loop over multiple blocks. I am planning on running 2 independant loops (CPU and possibly chipset on one, and 1/2 NV78 DangerDen SLI blocks on the other), so I am hoping that headpressure will be moot. I have a Corsair Nautulis (3/8", I believe) that I am planning on using for the CPU and chipset cooling loop, and then I'm thinking a 655 for the video card loop. I like the 350 or 355 Laing's... but they are 3/8 barbs, and the NV78 is a 1/2" barb.

So, I guess, knowing the above, will I hurt the cooling of the NV78's if I drop the barbs down to 3/8 (if I go with the 355 or similar), or is there a pump similar to the 355 that is 1/2" ID compatable?

I'm still reading!
Thanks in advance for any tips you folks can provide! :D
-=TD
 
Ok... will do.

Now, here is another quagmire...

*IF* I was to replace the NV78 barbs with 3/8 barbs, and the holes are 1/4"... dosen't the 1/4" restrict flow more than the 3/8" or 1/4" ID hose designations (seeing as both of those are larger in diameter than the 1/4 of the fittings location)???
 
I'm not sure but i think the 1/4 refers to the threading of the barbs and not the size of the hole. so for the hole you need bards that are 1/4 threading but the barbs can be whatever size you want.
 
yup yup, 3/8 or 1/2 really doesn't mater as much as you may think when it comes to the fittings on a block b/c the flow paths inside are much smaller. The larger tubing just helps cut down on flow restriction inside the tubing (and generally there is more of this than flow inside blocks)

Now lets see who calls me false on this one :p
 
If you have to ask if the performance difference between 3/8 and 1/2 (and 7/16) is big enough to matter, then it doesn't matter. The performance difference is marginal at best. IMHO, if going with 3/8 will make your tube routing a lot easier, then use 3/8. If your routing doesn't matter, and you are using parts that have the option of barb sizes, then I say why not use 1/2" barbs - after all, it doesn't hurt. It's really not a big deal though. Just don't use that weird europhile 1/4" ID tubing... :p
 
So... do you just heat the 3/8 tubes in hot water and expand them over the 1/2" barbs? does that cause any structural issues with the tube over the long term?
 
in addition to the above question... I'm looking on Petra's site, and seeing all these different diameters of hoses, but I have only heard of 3/8 and 1/2 barb designations.

Is there a rule that you buy a tube ID that is smaller than your barbs? or do you buy 3/8 tubes for 3/8 barbs and then secure them?
:confused:
 
3/8" hose will NOT fit over 1/2" barbs no matter how much you boil and stretch them. if you are looking for a tight fitting tube, get the 7/16" masterkleer tubing, its 1/16" smaller then 1/2" for a water tight[er] fit. i think the '1/4' barbs your talking about are the G1/4, which is a standard thread size, G1/4 does NOT mean 1/4 inch. danger den uses 1/2" G1/4 barbs almost exclusively on their products, as do alot of mfg's

if your going to go with an entire 3/8" system, theres not a whole lot of performance difference from 1/2". however if you try to mix sizes, use 1/2" blocks rad and/or pump, but use 3/8" tubing you will have much much more restriction then if you just used 1/2" tubing all around. so in short, keep the size the same all the way thru.

edit: 3/8" ID (inside diameter) tube will fit on 3/8" barbs, 1/2" ID tube will fit on 1/2" barbs. 7/16" ID tube fits on 1/2" barbs with some work.
 
ghost6303 said:
3/8" hose will NOT fit over 1/2" barbs no matter how much you boil and stretch them. if you are looking for a tight fitting tube, get the 7/16" masterkleer tubing, its 1/16" smaller then 1/2" for a water tight[er] fit. i think the '1/4' barbs your talking about are the G1/4, which is a standard thread size, G1/4 does NOT mean 1/4 inch. danger den uses 1/2" G1/4 barbs almost exclusively on their products, as do alot of mfg's

if your going to go with an entire 3/8" system, theres not a whole lot of performance difference from 1/2". however if you try to mix sizes, use 1/2" blocks rad and/or pump, but use 3/8" tubing you will have much much more restriction then if you just used 1/2" tubing all around. so in short, keep the size the same all the way thru.

edit: 3/8" ID (inside diameter) tube will fit on 3/8" barbs, 1/2" ID tube will fit on 1/2" barbs. 7/16" ID tube fits on 1/2" barbs with some work.
Click to expand...


You know, I think that's what I meant. I apologize, I use 7/16" myself, didn't mean to say 3/8". Editing my post now.
 
Russ said:
7/16" tubes, 1/2" barbs, imo.
Click to expand...

2nd that! :D

I will get rid of my 1/2" ID and will get some nice 7/16" my loop is a goner cuz of the stupid PC Ice. All tubes are blurred and crapy looking like...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top