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New System Build - Work & Play!

mattswell

n00b
Joined
Dec 20, 2007
Messages
11
I've finally graduated from college and found a job, and I've decided it's about time that I bought myself a new computer. The last time I build a computer from scratch was 2002. Since then I've bought a Dell which I modified, but just isn't up to today's gaming.

I've been browsing the forums here for some time, but only registered today to get some opinions on my build. I will initially be using a lot of parts from my existing computer, but will eventually replace these parts so that I can leave my existing computer intact and usable.

--edit - i forgot to mention what i'll use it for--
So basically I'll be using this rig for development - hobby programming, freelancing, etc (web and application)
And also I'll be using it for gaming. I play wow and eve often enough, as well as a few different FPS's.
--/edit--

First, here are the parts I will be reusing:

2 Hitachi Deskstar 250GB HDDs (SATA, raid 0 setup)
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Dell 2405fpw 24" screen (1920x1200, new rig must push games at this level)

Here is what I've got so far:

MAINBOARD:

ABIT IP35 Pro - I weighed this board against similar boards from ASUS and Gigabyte, but I've settled on this one.

CPU:

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - Lots of OC potential, quad core to boot.

MEMORY:

mushkin 2GB (x2) DDR2-800 (5-4-4-12, 1.8v) - Lower voltage for OC potential

OR

mushkin 1GB (x4) DDR2-800 (5-5-5-12, 1.8v) - Possibly better than the 2x2GB solution? Not sure if spreading the memory out this much will outweigh 5-4-4-12 vs 5-5-5-12.

CPU COOLING:

Tuniq Tower - Great air cooling for an OC'd Q6600

OR

Zalman CNPS9500 - Maybe great air cooling for an OC'd Q6600?

The CPU cooler is important so that it can both cool the Q6600 and work effectively (and fit) into the case I would like to use

CASE:

Antec P180b - Couldn't find the P180b at Newegg for the link. This case has been all over the forums here. It's beautiful, but I'm worried I may have problems using it with an air-cooled setup. I was originally inspired to use this case from tim987's post here.

PSU:

Corsair 520W w/ EPS12V - I won't be using an SLI setup but I would like the option to do so in the future. I am assuming the 520W will be more than enough to power my rig, if not then the 620W and 720W are around.

GRAPHICS:

EVGA GeForce 8800GTS (new chipset) - It's nice.

Overall I think it should make a good rig. Any advice is appreciated; I'd rather get it right than regret it. I won't be purchasing anything until mid to late January, so I've got a while to sit on it.


THANKS!
 
You won't notice the difference between CL4 and CL5, unless you're running benchmarks (and even then, its negligible), so don't pay a huge price premium for lower latency.

If you want 4GB and have the ability to OC, you'd be best served by 2x2GB of lower voltage RAM. Some boards have problems powering all 4 sticks while OC'ing. If you don't mind rebates, then go for that Mushkin 2x2GB kit. Otherwise, go for the A-Data kit instead for $90 without rebates.

Get the Q6600 from Clubit.com since they guarantee the G0 stepping. The G0 stepping requires less voltage so it runs cooler, which is a good thing regardless if you'll be OC'ing or not.

The Zalman isn't that great, especially for the price. Go with the Tuniq Tower, Thermalright Ultra120, or Ultima90 instead. My Ultima90 performs similarly to my Tuniq, yet its smaller, lighter, and easier to install.

$35 - Scythe SCNJ-1100P Ninja Plus Rev.B CPU HSF (optional $7 Thermalright LGA775 Bolt-Thru-Kit; recommended esp. for quadcore usage)
$45 - Tuniq Tower 120 CPU HSF
$46 - Thermalright Ultima 90 CPU HS + Panaflo Hydrowave Fan, FBA09A12M - Z ($3)
$55 - Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme CPU HS + Scythe S-Flex Fan SFF21E ($15)

The 520W Corsair is perfect for your system. However, if you want it to be capable of SLI, you'll be better served by the 750W Corsair, or 620W. However, the IP35 Pro is not SLI compatible, so do you plan on getting a new mobo?
 
I thought I would also add on recommendations for the cooler. I have just bought the Coolermaster Hyper 212, and reviews recently have said that it is great. Slightly better performance than the Tuniq Tower.

The case, I am not really going to make any recommendations, the CM690 is an alternative, with better cooling, but quality isn't as good. The P180 is probably going to be quieter.

Overall there aren't really changes to be made, you have done a great build there.
 
enginurd,

How is the Ultra 90 + fan vs the Tuniq as far as sound goes? Sound is an issue for me, i've gotten used to my Dell's BTX airflow and nearly silent operation.

I understand that OC'ing is going to require a bit more cooling, but I'd like it quieter than louder. Liquid cooling is only really an option if the air cooled setup's cost is comparable.


As for the mobo, I think I will be ok not having SLI. it's really expensive to setup anyhow. Is the abit board my best bet? I know the Gigabyte board is comparable (both the DS3R and the DS4) I believe the DS3R board supports DDR3, but that is far from a selling point.


I'll be going with the 2x2GB setup as you have suggested.



Also, scratch the P180b in favor of the P182 (black if I can find it)
 
The Ultra90 sucks, don't bother with it. The Ultima90 is good, but sound all depends on the fan you choose. The 92mm Panaflo Hydrowave fan I linked is pretty quiet for me (quieter than my Tuniq and its stock 120mm fan), but "quiet/loud" is subjective. So, go with the Panaflo, since its only $3. Afterwards, if you think its too loud, pickup a Scythe 120mm S-Flex fan to replace it. Larger fans are more quiet while pushing more or the same amount of air. The Ultima90 comes with clips for both size fans, and the fans are easy to change out.

Don't bother with the DDR3 DS3R. I doubt DDR3 would have a large advantage over DDR2 on these same platforms (conroe/bearlake). I think by the time DDR3 is worth it, you'll need a Nehalem CPU and corresponding chipset board. If you need/want all the extra features of the IP35 Pro, then go for it if you don't mind the price.

P182 is gunmetal. P180B is black. They're the same inside (the P180B has been updated with all the new wire management features of the P182). So, unless you get REALLY OLD stock, you'll be fine with the P180B.
 
Just an update:


I'm buying this PC as I go; saving the most time affected parts for last. I current have:


Abit IP-35 pro
Antec P182
Corsair 520W



I'm just waiting for a deal on memory (although apparently prices are going back up so I should just settle on that soon.) The CPU will come next (Q6600 still the best choice) and finally the video card (perhaps the 9000 series will be out?)

I'm not in any real rush, so I've got time on my side.



Thanks everyone for all the help. Now I'm working on how to figure out my cooling situation...
 
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