• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

New setup planning

F

filthysanchez

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
2,669
I'm going to be watercooling for the first time, and I'd like to do it right.

I'm going to be cooling the processor and GPU, and I'd prefer a single loop.

So far the parts list consists of:

Stacker 810
Sunbeam RHK-BA Fan controller
3 of these fan filters
MX-2 or AS5
MCP655(I don't want a DDC, too many bad stories)
Swiftech MC-RES
MCR-220
MCR-320(any way to get metal barbs for these? I've only seen the plastic ones)
Masterkleer 7/16" ID tubing
Most likely the EK 8800 gt block(want full cover)
10 Yate Loon D12SL-12(push+pull possibly, and it never hurts to have a few spares)

The CPU block is what I'm undecided on, I was thinking either:
D-teck FuZion+nozzle kit(is there any way to get metal barbs?)
EK Supreme
Thermalright XWB-1


I'm going to be going mostly for science and the obvious temperature advantages, and maybe a mild overclock.

The system will consist of:
e6750
Abit IP35-E
eVGA 8800gt
Stacker 810

setup like this:

wcplan.png


Any suggestions?

I don't want any thermochill radiators either.
 
That's gonna look great, and cool really well too.

I suggest running all the fans on 5v... You won't need them any higher :p. You can drop the rheobus too. I'm using 4x 120mm radiators with single yates on 5v and it's enough to cool my quad and 8800GT.

Get the Fuzion (it comes with metal barbs...) and use the 4.5 nozzle.

THIS
is a better fan guard IMO.
 
The rheobus probably won't be permanent, but it'd be nice to play around with(different fan speeds/pump speeds) then I can just add resistors to the voltage I'm most happy with(5-8V)

I think I may actually try a dual stage filter, with those mesh ones you linked too(was thinking about those earlier as well) and some pantyhose strecthed over, like a filter sandwich.
I'd have the nice filters out towards the front of the case, and the pantyhose in between the rad and the fans.

Are there any nice 90 degree metal fittings that'll fit in the spots I drew them?(2 on res, one on GPU)

edit: I don't know why the fuck I thought the Fuzion didn't have metal barbs, I think I was looking at a swiftech block.
 
I decided to go ahead and get those filters, but I need to know where to get 90 degree barbs to fit on the MC-RES and ek 880gt block
 
I'm about to pull the trigger, and I'll just ask one last time, since noone seems to be paying much attention to this thread, are there any noticable problems here, or perhaps suggestions you have?
 
I was looking through other setups, and I can't tell if the res position is okay, anyone who can clear that up?
 
It is fine. However, you may want to have it as the highest point in your loop to bleed all the air out.
 
Where do the hard Drives go? Might be better off with just using something like a thermochill rather than 2 radiators to save some space, not sure why you don't want superior thermochills other than cost? If you did one tripple thermochill in the front you would probably get about the same performance and not need the second radiator on the rear wall. If not, or you have something against them, radiator on the back wall of the case should probably be flipped as well to help avoid air bubbles. Of course you can keep flipping the case around while bleeding as an alternative (not a bad idea to mess with it a bit anyways to get air out of any dead spots).

What are the Fan Filters for? The stacker already comes with filters in the drive bays?

I also think this setup is a good candidate for a T-line vs a Rez but each to his own!

Oh yea and Avoid 90 deg fettings try to jsut make slightly longer lines of tubing so you cna bend them to fit. Idealy keep tubing lengths as short as possible, however its better to use longer tubing than a 90deg elbow.

FYI I just made a worklog on my stacker in sig, My temps are very good right now. Idle in a warm room MB, GPU and CPU are all in the 30's and I can keep them under 40 if I turn the fans up a bit otherwise I have sceen my 8800GT hit 40 after about 4 hours of bioshock and only a Maze4... In a cold room the CPU idles around 28! I onyl switched to the tripple for something to do, I had great temps with the double as well, but now I can turn the fans down a little more.
 
Using a 90 degree plastic elbow is about the same as using an additional four feet of tubing...
 
I'm not concerned with losing head from the elbows, I just want cleaner tube routing.

If it's really a good idea, I can flip the back rad, and do like this:

flippedrad.png



Or I can flip the rad, and use a t-line like this:

tline.png



I went ahead and ordered a T-line and a res, so I'll be prepared for whichever works best.


Also, hard drives will be on generic adapter rails with something to dampen the vibration.
 
Arcygenical said:
Which is a 0.1'c increase in temperatures, at maximum ;)
Click to expand...

LOL.

Practical information? Who knows. Just know that a guy on another board found the flow through a 90 degree elbow to be equivalent to the flow through four feet of tubing. It's the engineer in me that cares.

But the realist says: So f-ing what?




Bottom line: Build the cooling system that meets your needs. If you're happy with the temps, it doesn't matter what anyone else is getting. For example, I know I could get better temps by having a different radiator setup. But I wanted to make the least number of modifications to my case...so I chose the solution I now have. Make yourself happy, and to hell with everyone else!
 
Stacker 810 has the 2x120 in the back(I don't know if I'll have to cut because I don't have it yet) and I can fit the 320 in the front, which is the main reason I got it, the expandability and the room to fit everything inside.

Originally, I was looking at the PC-A16b, but I had to decide against it so I could fit everything I wanted inside, and still have room to work with.

BTW, what are the screws I need to do push/pull or just to attach the fans to the MCRs?

I ordered some of the screws Petra has, and I can just go to Ace to compare them, but it'd be nice to know so I can order them in Allen Head from McMaster or something.
 
I got my stuff from jab-tech today, but they took the EK 8800 gt block out of my cart, and I didn't notice until now.

I have to order one from performance-pcs and wait, but I can at least have a CPU only loop when my FuZion gets here.
 
Picture001Small.jpg

Picture004Small.jpg

Picture005Small.jpg



This is what I have so far, I'm waiting on packages from Petra, SVC, and Performance-PCs.

I'll hopefully have it all soon though.
 
Exactly how do I go about flushing the rads?

I have most of my parts already, and I'd like to get that out of the way.
 
I have everything installed now, but how long does it typically take for the system to bleed?

I'm using a t-line, with the 220 barbs up, and I've tried the pump on high, medium, and low.
 
zz016Small.jpg


I need to make a HDD cage, and route the wires, as well as switch the tubes on the CPU block(mixed up intake/outlet) and she'll be good.

With my fans on low, and pump on "1" I idle at 33 C on the cpu and 40 C on the gpu.

Load 42C on the CPU, 46C on the GPU.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top