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New PSU

K

karatekid

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
226
Hey I need some advice on a new psu for my system. It's an hp x2 4200 2 gigs xpress 200 graphics. Right now it has a 300 watt hipro http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=HP-D3057F3R&cat=PWR So I have a few questions 1) What is the 4 pin aux connector? I've looked at psus and haven't seen this before 2) I can't shut down my comp, when I press shut down it might go to the Windows is now shuttting down screen but never happens, I have to manually press the power button. So do yyou think it is because of the psu? 3) Any PSU's you think will fit/work for my computer. (It's a tight fit.) I might upgrade the video card so keep that in mind with the recommendations.
 
karatekid said:
1) What is the 4 pin aux connector? I've looked at psus and haven't seen this before
Click to expand...

The 4-pin AUX is the same as a 4-pin P4. ALL ATX12V power supplies have this.

karatekid said:
2) I can't shut down my comp, when I press shut down it might go to the Windows is now shuttting down screen but never happens, I have to manually press the power button. So do yyou think it is because of the psu?
Click to expand...

No. It's the motherboard. The BIOS isn't releasing the pigeon that's been trained to shut off the power supply.

karatekid said:
3) Any PSU's you think will fit/work for my computer. (It's a tight fit.) I might upgrade the video card so keep that in mind with the recommendations.
Click to expand...

It's a "tight fit?" How tight? Is it not a standard ATX? What's the dimensions of the PSU that's in there now?
 
So it's a standard ATX size. 5.5" deep is typical.
 
Ok cool. So I should be good with about any psu right? Don't need any special connectors or anything like that?
 
The only "problem" you're likely to face will be that the PSU cables are a tad too long since the HP PSU's are generally tailored to that specific case. Other than that it's a direct drop in, happily HP doesn't use a legacy pin arrangement on their systems.
 
"Other than that it's a direct drop in, happily HP doesn't use a legacy pin arrangement on their systems."


I don't understand what youre talking about. :confused:
 
With some corporate PC's (read that Dell) they use a pin arrangement on the PSU that forces you to either buy a powersupply from a specialty MFG. or from the PC maker.

I've seen factory replacement PSU's run upwards of $200 for an OEM replacement "stock" PSU that would cost $50 for the same wattage aftermarket unit. Happily, though, your PSU and PC aren't like that.
 
"With some corporate PC's (read that Dell) they use a pin arrangement on the PSU that forces you to either buy a powersupply from a specialty MFG. or from the PC maker."

IIRC, most of the desktops from Compaq, Dell, HP, and eMachines do the same (even your normal consumer desktops).
 
"most of the desktops from Compaq, Dell, HP, and eMachines do the same (even your normal consumer desktops)."

So what should i do?
 
I've personally taken off the shelf ATX and mATX replacement PSU's and put them in Compaq's and HP's and the worst I had to do was modify the physical mount on one HP. The wiring was standard ATX 100%.
 
madmat said:
I've personally taken off the shelf ATX and mATX replacement PSU's and put them in Compaq's and HP's and the worst I had to do was modify the physical mount on one HP. The wiring was standard ATX 100%.
Click to expand...

Yes, thats what happens, sometimes..... really, you don't want to chance frying your mobo, CPU and possibly videocard, ram, etc. Just contact hp or check the pin arrangement.
 
I emailed hp about whether can I replace the psu and here was their reply:

"In this case before you install an additional video card in the PC, the
important care to be take is for power supply. Because the graphics
card
functionality is depending on the power supply installed in the
computer. I have verified the power supply specifications of the PC,
the
following specification is preinstalled in the PC.

* Input voltage (47-63Hz)
100-127V/8A
200-240V/4A
* Output wattage - 300W.

The maximum upgrade of Maximum output wattage is up to 450w without
changing the Input voltage. In order to install an video card the power
supply installed in the PC is a lower end configuration. In this case
you can purchase the compatible power supply with the above
specifications and install it in the computer without any issues."

So I can only go up to 450, is this true? And do I have stick by the Input voltages and the 100 - 127V/8A 200-240V/4A? I'm a little confused by that cause when I was checking the psus I saw some with input voltages like 10A @ 115V, 5A @ 230V and was wondering if I could get that or not. Any help or recommendations would be great.
 
No, you can go with whatever will fit your case. HP only offers a 450W PSU for that particular PC so they list it as the maximum. Power is like money, you can never have too much. Look at your PSU as stored potential, a PSU has the potential to reach it's rated wattage and still be in spec., after going past that point many will go out of spec. Some badly, some just barely and some catastrophically. We try to avoid the latter.

The point is that having a PSU that has the potential for more power than you'll ever need is fine, it gives you room to grow later.
 
Oh thats awesome. So can I disregard all of this "* Input voltage (47-63Hz)
100-127V/8A
200-240V/4A "?
 
That's just telling you the working voltages for the mains rail (wall voltages) for HP's PSUs. That's basically standard on most power supplies. Some have a switch to select 110/220 operation and others (mainly those with active PFC) do not. Steer clear of non-A-PFC PSU's with no selector switch since they're usually cheap, crappy units.
 
No, I'm saying buy a quality PSU. Avoid cheap PSUs like the plauge. If it looks too good to be true, (modular, flashy, high wattage claims and low price) it probably is. Read the stickies. Active PFC is nice but a non-APFC PSU can do you just as well at a lower cost. Most Antecs are non-PFC but they sell very good, solid power supplies. The new Ultras are not bad either. The Liberty line by Enermax is great, so are Seasonics, FSP's and Silverstones. Zippy is a good PSU albeit pricey.

As I said, read the stickies, read some of the discussion threads and go from there. Avoid stuff like Deer and Aspire to name a couple. If you do some homework you can get a really good PSU for a decent price.
 
I'm not really following along with the whle HP thing, I just know that a lot of their desktop PCs have funky mobo/PSU configs. and I should suggest that you check to see if your going to blow something up by switching the PSU. All I have to say now is, before you buy a PSU, post which one it is here, as it is very easy to pickup a PSU that claims it is 500W, and can't put out 300W for its life.
 
I think I'm gonna get a 7600gs or 7600gt. Do you think I need to upgrade my psu or will I be ok with the 300w?
 
I would replace it since the PC was configured with the minimal PSU to support the hardware installed. I was under the impression you were installing a new PSU in the PC already.
 
Nah I didn't even order one yet. I was thinking I might be able to get away with this psu and a 7600gs or a similar card...
 
I doubt it...the 7600GT will have a much higher draw than the X1300. Better too much wattage on tap than too little.

Edit: Oops, you have integrated graphics, yeah you'll definitely need something with more ass to it especially with an X2 in there.
 
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