New loop running, now time to upgrade!

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
OK, so the new system is up and running, though the picture is from earlier in the build phase, just because its a better picture of the layout. Its a 64GB 5950 build, but for the moment the part to discuss is the loop:

Case: Define 7 XL
Water block: optimus AMD foundation block, pure copper
Pump: Optimus medium tube Rez, with d5 built in
Radiators:
Thermochill PA 120.3, push + pull with mix of 3x GT AP-15 (push), Arctic cooling 120 pull
HW labs XFlow GT 420, push pull with mix of 3x fractal 140 push and 2x Arctic 140 pull
Cheap Barrowich Thermo Sensor in lower rez inlet for temp

I'm currently up and running with just the CPU in the loop as I haven't secured a 3080 yet (probably going to wait for a 3080ti at this point), temp video card is a GeForce 710 (Big money!)

I think this can be routed better, and just as importantly, I don't need to be cheap anymore. I've been running fairly simple builds with cheap worm clamps, etc, and there really isn't a reason for it anymore. I can afford nice fittings, QDCs, fan controllers, flow sensors, whatever, so I'm thinking I should go ahead and have a little fun and add all that to my loop when I replumb to add a 3080ti. The thing is... I don't know what I can / should all add when I replumb this thing. I also have a bit of concern with the res location, as a longer vid card that overhangs the MB may bump it.

Thoughts on routing? Thoughts on things I should add?
 

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Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Messages
882
Youll probably have to pull the fans off of the back of your 120.3 and squeeze the res right up against it to fit your gpu. Unless you can find a 3080fe or one of the shorter 3080s. Measure twice cut once and all that jazz ;D
You likely need a 45 or 90 to complete the run from your cpu to gpu otherwise your tubing will collapse.
Other than that it looks good!

Edit- if you have a shroud and gasket for your 120.3 that will help focus the airflow. They are one of the few rads that actually benefit from them.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
Youll probably have to pull the fans off of the back of your 120.3 and squeeze the res right up against it to fit your gpu. Unless you can find a 3080fe or one of the shorter 3080s. Measure twice cut once and all that jazz ;D
You likely need a 45 or 90 to complete the run from your cpu to gpu otherwise your tubing will collapse.
Other than that it looks good!

Edit- if you have a shroud and gasket for your 120.3 that will help focus the airflow. They are one of the few rads that actually benefit from them.
The 120.3 has the integrated shroud (roughly 1” gap to fins) and I have the gasket installed on the push side. I considered moving the res closer to the 120.3, but I would certainly need to put 90s on the 120.3 and on the pump outlet (iirc, it’s sub optimal to put a 90 right at pump outlet) to make the plumbing work. If I need to, I’ll move to push only on the 120.3, but need to see how the vid card lines up for that.

It was truly a fail that my original plan to go directly from the X-flow to the 120.3 wouldn’t work, as having the 120.3 flipped would clean up some room for the red. I don’t suppose anyone makes any fancy 180 fittings?

I’ll have a spare d5 laying around after I migrate some data from an old PC and I was considering installing directly under the new video card. That gets me a “free 90”, and probably makes routing a little bit easier, but height becomes a concern.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
Actually they do make 180s but they also call them snake fittings, theres all kinds to choose from. Heres a quick example,

https://www.performance-pcs.com/byk...w-fitting-black-b-rd180-sk-b-rd180-sk-bk.html

I run dual d5s for the added head pressure but mostly for redundancy. Ive fried more pumps than i care to remember and dont take any chances now!
180 is going on the shopping list!

I’ve never fried a pump - I have a Ehiem 1250, DDC w/ swiftech bayres, a stand alone d5 vario, and now the Optimus tube res w/ d5. Starting to build up a collection...
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Messages
882
I cant really say ive fried them from anything ive done myself just had really bad luck going all the way back to a couple of cheesy koolance pumps that came in a case i had. To a handfull of ddcs that died the most recent being one of the little alphacool 310s that cooked itself a couple of years ago.

Ehiem used to be the baddest of the bad. You dont hear that name very often anymore. Ive got quite the collection of pumps going myself, 4 or 5 ddcs(not counting the carcasses of course) and 3 d5s. I cant seem to pass up a good deal!
Like all things wcing its a sickness haha.

A heads up about rotary fittings ive encountered. They should always be hard to turn or at least firm. If they become easy to turn or loose feeling be wary. They may leak. Long story short they are just pressed metal and can weaken over time so be sure to test them before you add them to your loop and be careful not to pull or overturn them once they are in your loop. When i leak test i wrap all of the rotaries in my loop with tissue paper just to be certain. If one does leak it will only be a tiny drop at a time.
Chances are youll never have one leak but better to be safe.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
good to know on the rotaries. This is my first time using them, and I opted for enzotech (think I spelled that right) as I wasn’t thinking compression fittings would be as secure as barbs. I did find a couple leaks, though I leak test with a “buddy” system using an old AT power supply to power the pump. That way I don’t have to worry about getting water on anything powered.

I’m thinking of putting in a koolance QDC or two in the loop to aid in draining, but just not 100% where. If I keep the layout as is, it would go on the long run leaving the 120.3. How much room do you need for a QDC?

Also, anyone know what good temps are for a 5950? Running World Community Grid 100% on 32 threads with PBO enabled, I’m getting a solid 4.45ghz, 53C, and water temp of 25c. This was also my first time using TG paste, and I wasn’t terribly happy with the spread.
 

termite

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
5,512
Rotary fittings are pretty handy. However I would also second the warning that they can suddenly leak.

I have had 5 or 6 different ones start leaking after some time, usually after a rebuild, but had one leak out of the package.

Rotary fittings are the one thing I have gotten in the habit of replacing with each rebuild.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
Are any of the brands better for rotaries in leak prevention? Guess when I replumb for the video card, I’ll get rid of unnecessary rotaries - I probably won’t touch the system outside of topping off until the Nvidia 5000 series is released, so that could be a good 4-5 years I’m expecting those fittings not to leak.
 

NightReaver

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 20, 2017
Messages
300
I swear, the most reliable (and cheapest) build I ever did was my 1st. Knockoff sharkbites and PEX.

Haven't had too much luck with rotary fittings. Cheap ones, pricey ones, they all seem made the same to me.
 

jerry8169

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Messages
126
My first custom loop I used black soft tubing with EK fittings from my local MC. My latest one is using clear PETG hard tubing, but still using EK fittings, so I've had great luck with them not leaking. I know if there's not a MC close by just running out and picking them up can be difficult, if not impossible, but I'd say try to see if you can find EK fittings as they've been good for me.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
697
I have used bitspower and barrow rotaries for years without issue. I believe barrow is the oem for bitspower so really the same brand.
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2018
Messages
882
Ive also had good luck with ek, bitspower, barrow and byski-45s/90s/180s. Ive had terrible luck with xspc 45 and 90 rotaries.
 

termite

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
5,512
I have had both Bitspower and EK (classic) leak. The EK one leaked out of the package.

The Bitspower ones were after using them for awile, like more than one build, and in both cases were very loose.

They also leaked very slowly, like the seam would be wet when touched, maybe a drop a day, if they dripped at all.
 

Dan_D

Extremely [H]
Joined
Feb 9, 2002
Messages
57,780
My first custom loop I used black soft tubing with EK fittings from my local MC. My latest one is using clear PETG hard tubing, but still using EK fittings, so I've had great luck with them not leaking. I know if there's not a MC close by just running out and picking them up can be difficult, if not impossible, but I'd say try to see if you can find EK fittings as they've been good for me.

They also sell the absolute worst and most basic of the Bitspower and EK fittings.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
They also sell the absolute worst and most basic of the Bitspower and EK fittings.
How do you identify quality of a particular fitting of a particular brand? Say I'm looking at a rotary 45 from Bitspower? I thought they were all the same, but maybe not?

Edit

I also have a really stupid question regarding bleeding a loop with a tube res like this. I have a small air gap (maybe 1/16") at the top of the res - I wouldn't worry about it, but with the inlet at the top of the res, it seems that the splashing water creates bubbles that in turn end up getting sucked into the loop if the pump speed is 60% or higher. Do I just (very carefully) top this puppy off while its running until water spills out of the res, or is there some better way?
 
Last edited:

Dan_D

Extremely [H]
Joined
Feb 9, 2002
Messages
57,780
How do you identify quality of a particular fitting of a particular brand? Say I'm looking at a rotary 45 from Bitspower? I thought they were all the same, but maybe not?

I never said the quality was bad. What I am saying is that the ones Microcenter sold are the worst models from EK and Bitspower. They aren't the ones that have wrench flats on them or slots for tools to tighten them down better.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
Also, I realized I never posted temps / clocks.

Currently at 71c on cpu package, water temp at 25c, ambient about 20c. With PBO enabled, at 100% load its pretty locked at 4.55ghz. Unfortunately, I have no idea how that compares to other Optimus blocks, no do I know how it compares to blocks from other vendors.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
697
So at MC you will get the same quality fittings from a brand, but you will have a limited selection compared to Performance PC's or Titan Rig. EK rotaries are just fine, as are Barrow, Bitspower, and many others. Those are usually the three brands that most have experience with. Dont stress about leaking, it is always possible but I have never heard of water suddenly spraying from a rotary and soaking your components. If it happens it will likely be a tiny drip that is so small you dont even notice for weeks. It is very unlikely you will see a leak in a rotaries first use case. Pick what you like aesthetically and economically from a major brand and run with it. Mix and match. I am working on a build right now with EK rotary 90's and barrow fittings together. Have fun with the build, do not worry.

71 seems high with 25 degree water. May need to reseat that block.
 

Endgame

Gawd
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
596
I’m looking at getting an Aquaero as I can’t control my fan speeds based on water temp from my motherboard. Do I need the Aquaero 6 XT with the display to use the LT fan controller, or can I use the LT alone? I don’t have a 5 1/4” bay available in my current build, and due to the way you install the bracket on the define 7 XL, I’m not sure I can make it happen without shrinking my top rad to a 280.
 
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