New Intel build with Antec 1200

GJSNeptune

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Mar 31, 2004
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I need advice more on building this system inside this case more than on the components.

Antec Twelve Hundred
Intel E8400 (already have)
Asus P5Q Pro (already have)
Xigmatek HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler
Xigmatek ACK-I7751 Retention Bracket
Corsair HX620 620W PSU
Corsair Dominator 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500), TWIN2X4096-8500C5DF
WD6400AAKS hard drives
Samsung SH-S223Q 22x DVD±R Burner with LightScribe
6x Yate Loon D12SM-12 case fans

Not sure about video card. Probably a GTX 260. Still trying to decide.

I think I want to wait for Windows 7. I have Vista Business 32-bit, but I'm trying to sell my current rig with it since it's an OEM copy. I have a retail copy of XP Pro 32-bit. I may drop some funds on XP64 or a 64-bit version of Vista, but right now consider this an XP Pro 32-bit rig.

I've read about people with this case needing PSU extenders to route the cables through the holes to the backside of the motherboard tray. I don't want to get everything and then realize I need to extend some of the wires. Will I only need to extend the power connectors? People seem to prefer installing the PSU with the fan facing up, which would place the HX620's power cables farthest from the motherboard tray.

Any corrections, suggestions, etc.?
 
I recommend cheaper RAM. The G.Skill DDR2 1000 kit would enable you to reach the same OC thresholds as the Corsiar Dominator DDR2 1066 kit (as there's only a 33MHz speed difference between the two).

The GTX 260 is great for gaming on a 22 inch monitor (1680x1050), but if you plan on gaming on a 24 inch or larger monitor (1920x1200 or greater), and you want to play games with high visual settings, then you may want to consider the GTX 280 or the HD4870X2. If you're sticking with the GTX 260, make sure that you get the one with 216 shader cores. The 1GB HD4870 is also a good alternative -- especially if you want to keep the option of CrossFire open for later.

Since I have neither the case nor the power supply, I can't tell you which cables you would have to extend. However, I believe that there are some images of the Antec Twelve Hundred (fully assembled) floating around here (possibly in the Case Mod Gallery subforum).
 
I can't drop the funds for a GTX 280 or 4870X2. Even a non-Core 216 GTX 260 is pushing it. I haven't gotten a new monitor yet due to money and mostly because I can't decide what setup I want. I currently have a 19" LCD at 1280x1024 and a 15" at 1024x768. I have limited space on my desk for monitors, as I have my speakers on my monitor shelf. I could get a 24" or 26" widescreen, or another 19" to replace the 15". I haven't decided yet.
 
I believe that, due to your limited workspace, you would be better off with a single 24-26 inch monitor. But that's just my opinion on the matter.

If you want to save some money on the Twelve Hundred, you could get it from either Amazon or Buy.com. NewEgg also has a few combo deals with the Twelve Hundred that you may be able to take advantage of.
 
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I'll probably get it from Micro Center ($139 after tax) if Newegg's and Amazon's prices don't drop. If Newegg drops it back to $140ish with a GTX 260 combo, I might just bite.
 
What's the most that you can spend on the rest of your build?

Are there any corners (with certain components) that you'll be willing to cut?
 
Pretty set with the components above unless someone convinces me otherwise. So far I've spent $250 on the CPU/mobo.

Would like to spend no more than $800 on the rest. Would like to keep it $1000 or less, but an extra $50 or so would be okay I guess.
 
The rest of your components (save for the RAM, which I explained earlier why) looks good.

I can't really suggest anything else to you, other than to look around for some good deals.
 
Looks good. I too would maybe have made a different ram choice but yours in not poor by any means. Do your price shopping homework on that Corsair PSU that varies a ton from vendor to vendor and day to day. I've seen that model everywhere from $99AR to $179 flat. Shop around
 
Well, if you really want to be frugal, newegg has the 620Watt Corsair you mentioned for $150 - $30 MIR = $120

If you go without modular, you can get the 650W Corsair for $110 - $30 MIR = $80.

Easy way to save $40.
 
Ditch the dominators since they're a waste of money, as tiraides mentioned more eloquently.

So, if you get a 22" or smaller, the HD4850 isn't a bad choice either.
 
I might actually get a BenQ G2400WD, but the monitor will be purchased awhile after I build my system.

I've been thinking about memory. I'll look around for other DDR2-1066. I'm just really partial to Corsair. Have been for years. I've never had compatibility problems, and I've always been able to tighten the timings to stock speeds (when the motherboard ran it slower) or faster.
 
The 2x2GB of Corsair is $77 after MIR, and it comes with the fan. The G.Skill would be $80 for 4GB. I've always gotten Corsair rebates back.

Plus the G.Skill is 1GB sticks.
 
Is 620W comfortable for an E8400, GTX 260, three or more hard drives, five or six case fans, the big fan at the top of the Twelve Hundred, a DVD burner, 4GB of memory, etc.?
 
Is 620W comfortable for an E8400, GTX 260, three or more hard drives, five or six case fans, the big fan at the top of the Twelve Hundred, a DVD burner, 4GB of memory, etc.?

More than enough.

The 2x2GB of Corsair is $77 after MIR, and it comes with the fan. The G.Skill would be $80 for 4GB. I've always gotten Corsair rebates back.

Plus the G.Skill is 1GB sticks.

The G.Skills are 2GB sticks. Tiraides provided a link...

I recommend cheaper RAM. The G.Skill DDR2 1000 kit would enable you to reach the same OC thresholds as the Corsiar Dominator DDR2 1066 kit (as there's only a 33MHz speed difference between the two).
...

I might actually get a BenQ G2400WD, but the monitor will be purchased awhile after I build my system.

I've been thinking about memory. I'll look around for other DDR2-1066. I'm just really partial to Corsair. Have been for years. I've never had compatibility problems, and I've always been able to tighten the timings to stock speeds (when the motherboard ran it slower) or faster.

Then I'd suggest just upgrading the vidcard if and when you upgrade your monitor. Vidcards are the fastest depreciating components in a gaming PC, so if you get one now, but don't upgrade your monitor for another 8 months, then something new would be out by the time you upgrade and you can sell your old card to help offset the cost. Since you don't need the graphics horsepower right now, no need to pay for it.

Corsair is a great brand, but I feel they're overpriced. As tiraides mentioned, DDR2-1066 is only 33mhz (effectively) faster than DDR2-1000, yet costs nearly double the price pre-rebate. Even if you do get your rebates back, they're still 40% more expensive for only 33Mhz.

If you don't plan on OC'ing past 3.6Ghz, then go for the Corsair DDR2-800 4GB kit instead. At least it has better price/performance ratio.
 
But I like the memory fan!

So I should get some DDR2-1000 and see if I can push it to 1066 or 1200?
 
But I like the memory fan!

So I should get some DDR2-1000 and see if I can push it to 1066 or 1200?

Well then consider the extra 40% the cost of the memory fan. :p

No need to push the RAM higher without pushing the CPU. And the CPU most likely will not hit even 500Mhz FSB, so again, no need to go higher than DDR2-1000.

/*------------- <cut n paste> -------------*/
Formulas for Intel platform @ 1:1 settings: (base FSB speed is SDR, or single data rate)
c × [Base FSB speed] = CPU Clock speed (c = CPU Multiplier)
2 × [Base FSB speed] = RAM speed (DDR: double data rate)
4 × [Base FSB speed] = Effective FSB speed (QDR: quad data rate)

On Intel platforms, running the RAM higher than a 1:1 ratio with the CPU is, for the most part, useless, so don't bother trying to do so. If the BIOS does it for you, just let it. All you need is a 1:1 config, though. Here's some possible clock speeds (as always with OC'ing, your results will vary):

E8400: 9 × 333 = 3.0Ghz, DDR2-667 << STOCK
E8400: 9 × 400 = 3.6Ghz, DDR2-800 << Nice OC
E8400: 9 × 445 = 4.0Ghz, DDR2-890 << Good OC
E8400: 9 × 500 = 4.5Ghz, DDR2-1000 << Great OC
E8400: 9 × 533 = 4.8Ghz, DDR2-1066 << Phase change?
/*------------- </cut n paste> -------------*/

It won't be eight months before I upgrade my monitors. A month, maybe two tops.

Oh... ok. "A while" for me is longer than 6 months, hehe.
 
Heh, so I'd need to push my E8400 to 4.5GHz to utilize DDR2-1000 speeds?

Indeed. Sure, you could OC the RAM only to whatever higher speed you want, but you won't be utilizing that extra speed to make any noticeable performance difference unless the CPU is OC'd with it. Thats just how the Core2 platform works; it performs optimally at 1:1.
 
If I get DDR2-1000 and run the CPU at 3.6GHz, I'll need to underclock the memory, right?
 
If I get DDR2-1000 and run the CPU at 3.6GHz, I'll need to underclock the memory, right?

Yes, anything under 4.5Ghz on an E8400 (with default 9x multiplier) would underclock DDR2-1000 if keeping a 1:1 ratio. While its not necessary to underclock the ram, doing so to keep the 1:1 ratio is the most optimal setting. If you'd rather not underclock the RAM, you could lower the CPU multiplier to help you find a more acceptable speed for both your CPU and RAM. For example:

9x450 = 4Ghz, DDR2-900
8x500 = 4Ghz, DDR2-1000

However, assuming your chip can run either and remain stable, either of those settings will perform the same since the resulting CPU clock speed is the same.
 
Do memory modules with heatsinks keep the memory significantly cooler? With an Antec Twelve Hundred, my memory should have some good air moving across it.

I have 2x1GB Corsair XMS2 ddr2-800 with DHX in my current rig. It's good stuff, but the Lian-Li A05b doesn't have the best airflow.
 
Are you asking about the enlarged ramsinks or even ones with heatpipes? Yes, they keep OC'd RAM considerably cooler, but thats only if you're OC'ing those things to their max. Regular RAMsinks work fine for most people -- no real need for the enlarged or even heatpipe ramsinks.
 
The heatsinks shouldn't matter if you're running within spec. If you are running DDR2-1000 at above 500MHz, then I'd want better cooling on there.

Better safe than sorry I suppose. I haven't really seen any sticks above DDR2-800 that didn't have heatspreaders attached anyway.
 
Well they have heatspreaders. I guess I'm referring to the enlarged ones. My Tuniq Tower had no clearance issues with the DHX modules I have now, so I suppose there wouldn't be an issue with the Xigmatek heatsink.
 
Well, the Tuniq sits high, so you shouldn't have a problem with it. The Xigmatek is very narrow, so again, you shouldn't have a problem wit hit. Now, if you were using a Ninja, you'd have problems.
 
I got it from Micro Center on Friday for $139 after tax. I'm so pissed at Newegg right now.
 
I haven't used it yet. Still waiting on parts. I have it under my desk (still in the plastic bag) to simulate where it might go. I'm still not sure. I should get my order of S-FLEX fans today, so I can at least replace the Antec fans.

Definitely get it for $120. Utmost cheapest I've ever seen it.


Newegg's memory deals keep selling out. I'm going to go with this kit:
http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=10007942
 
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