**New Danger Den Water Cooling System**

slight problem mate: that's a low-flow GPU block and a high flow CPU block.

you might want to settle for a maze 4 GPU acetyl top and some ram sinks, instead.

no res and no fill port? how do you plan to fill and bleed it?

you should probably look very seriously at a bonneville heatercore from dangerden or elsewhere, to cool a hot vid card and you processor. i believe that 2fresh posted on your previous thread.

had i known that you were okay with DIY last thread, i would have pointed this kind of stuff out sooner, since it is not exactly a kit.
 
you only need a resivious OR a fillpoint. id say keep the fillpoint. you dont reeally need the zerex stuff, you can get water wetter cheaper. besdies that everything else looks good
 
you need a T fitting to use with the fill port. i'd say that you should just get one from the hardware store. i agree with using a fill port instead of a res, since you are on a budget.

i like using metal gear clamps from the hardware store, as opposed to the little plastic pinch-on clamps that DD sells.

water wetter works, zerex is less likely to discolour your tubing.

my sunon fans have all died quickly on me. panaflo or delta fans are good fans, and long lived. both are available in a variety of noise/performance levels. something around 65+ CFM airflow and 30 db of noise will give excellent performance.

do you have shrouds for the heatercore? i know that it would be a seperate purchase and seperate shipping, but 2fresh sell rads, shrouds, and retention hardware.

do 6800s use BGA style memory? if so, dangerden sells OCZ BGA ramsinks. not the best, with that crappy thermal tape on there, but i don't know if it would be worth shipping to order something nicer from elsewhere. i suppose that you could strip off the tape and use some thermal epoxy - thermal paste blend on there to get some better performance........
 
thats a negative. atleast i think. id say it dosnt, cause they make you buy a seperate any other time
 
the koolance block would probably work, just not very well. that's why i suggested the maze4 and ramsinks.

if you want the koolance VGA block, then get ALL koolance hardware.

all dangerden blocks are high-flow, including the RBX.
 
DFI Daishi said:
the koolance block would probably work, just not very well. that's why i suggested the maze4 and ramsinks.

if you want the koolance VGA block, then get ALL koolance hardware.
Click to expand...

Or Aqua Computer, Innovatek, or Alphacool ;)
 
Top Nurse said:
Or Aqua Computer, Innovatek, or Alphacool ;)
Click to expand...
yeah yeah............your pretty imports are an easy sell. if i'm remembering this guy's original thread correctly, though, he is probably trying to keep costs down.

less precision german engineering and more cheap, modded heatercores.
 
viperdv2k4 said:
Hows this--
CPU Water Block: Danger Den TDX
Top Style: Lucite - Clear
Video Card Water Block: *NEW* Acetal MAZE4 GPU for the Nvidia 6800 Series
Chipset Water Block: None
Fitting Size: 1/2 OD Fitting for 1/2 ID Tubing
Radiator: Heater Core II
Fans: 2x Sunnon 120mm Fan w/4-pin molexsetup?
Click to expand...
I've got those same blocks with the DDen D4 pump & 2.120 heater core. My biggest reccomendation is... get a 3x120 radiator if you can afford it. It'll make a huge difference... as well as the most powerful pump as possible. :D
 
low flow restriction

read what you post. Low restriction = high flow. It will be fine.
 
that black thing will probably not cool as well as the ramsinks, since the stock memory cooler is most likely mostly aluminium, and is not necessarily making good contact with all of the ram chips.

those fans will fit on the heatercore. i hope that you have a fan controller already, because they are pretty loud at full speed, and it won't really hurt your performance to use something that is quieter and has less airflow. they might be okay with a 7 volt mod, though.

for the same price as the 1250, you can get a danner pump from a good aquarium store, that gets about twice the flow and twice the head. now's the time that a lot of people say that they don't want an aquarium pump in their computer, but the eheim is also an aquarium pump. this would bring you into line with fore1337's advice regarding the pump.

russ has it correct, regarding the maze4 GPU.
 
from the WC sticky:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idProduct=DN1125 to beat out the best DC watercooling pumps, at a lower price.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=HD10141 same idea as above.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=RB3115 overkill, but but the next one down is not enough.........probably would work VERY well for quiet cooling, though.

google can find you many more. you might be suprised about how common aquarium stores are, assuming that you live in a city.

1250 would probably be adequate, but is probably the minimum, as opposed to the optimal. plenty of people get good results with the hydor L35 and the eheim 1250, but these are similarly priced and perform better.

via aqua 1300 for the cheapest pump that i have seen, that will perform adequately.
 
scrap that *&^@#$^ clear top for the water block and get a brass one. In the alternative, have someone make one from delrin for it.

heatexchangers...I will resist the temptation to post the monstercore pic for once. :)
 
weapon-- said:
scrap that *&^@#$^ clear top for the water block and get a brass one. In the alternative, have someone make one from delrin for it.

heatexchangers...I will resist the temptation to post the monstercore pic for once. :)
Click to expand...
why do you resist when the thing is just SO beefy.

i'm running with the copper top option on my maze 4-1. i like it, but i don't think that what the top is made of will do much for performance. am i wrong?
 
DFI Daishi said:
why do you resist when the thing is just SO beefy.

i'm running with the copper top option on my maze 4-1. i like it, but i don't think that what the top is made of will do much for performance. am i wrong?
Click to expand...

check under block accessories at danger den - click on the brass top conversion kit and you will find this quote straight from DD:
"This kit converts the TDX Lucite top to a brass top - the most reliable setup."
clear tops crack -- such a high percentage of them fail over time that a number of theories have developed to explain the failure of clear tops on waterblocks. For example: it is the effects of chemicals used in the cooling loop; it is from thermal cycling; it is from overtightening the screws; it is the end result of stress the material receives during machining, the plastic passed through new york at some point and was exposed to a hillary rodham clinton speech, etc. etc. It might not crack today or tomorrow, but at some point you will start seeing nice little hairline cracks forming and then one day, you will notice water seeping out of one of them.
 
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