new cooler, these temps seem high?

[dioxholster]

http://i.imgur.com/um4mxvP.png?1

I feel i should be getting better temps, considering how low the voltage is. its a Corsair H60 (newer edition) and i have it set up as exhaust in rear of the case. Its also in pull from the rad, so the rad is facing the CPU. I figure since i have one intake and one exhaust on top, that it would be better to have another exhaust. The fan which is corsair SP120 is static pressure kind and does that mean i have to place it in a certain way unlike other normal airflow fans?

 

[Bluesun311]

Doesn't look that bad but I wouldn't spend a ton of time pushing the pump on that thing at such high temps, my h80i with that mounting scheme just couldn't quite grip itself on my z87 board very well and was getting temps a bit hotter than that and then started leaking slowly.

I'm gonna give it another go with the newer mounting system they have coming with the H55 H75 H105 etc

 

[cortexodus]

I don't have much experience with these units in a single fan configuration but I think it's generally better to force air into the radiator rather than trying to pull it through. I would really recommend you get it set up in a push/pull configuration. I have several Kuhler 620's, H50, etc and they really work well when put into push/pull with shrouds for instance.

 

[drescherjm]

To me your temps look like they are in the expected range to me for ivy-bridge overclocking.

 

[magoo]

What you should look at are temperatures while gaming.
Looks like you are running a stress program, which will load the CPU unrealistically.

If your daily use temps are fine then that's really where the money is. (before you change anything)

 

[dioxholster]

Doesn't look that bad but I wouldn't spend a ton of time pushing the pump on that thing at such high temps, my h80i with that mounting scheme just couldn't quite grip itself on my z87 board very well and was getting temps a bit hotter than that and then started leaking slowly.

I'm gonna give it another go with the newer mounting system they have coming with the H55 H75 H105 etc

well thanks for the nightmares... i read that it might need washers for the backplate but when i was installing it I figured that the thumbscrew and the standoffs would fix the looseness of the backplate. After it was done the pump seemed stable to me. mounting system is much easier than the alternative round ones, but i wonder if i sacrificed cooling performance for convienance like you say. And leaking? how so? from googling people who installed washers have reduced their temps from 70c to 40c, so im wondering how to check if mine is secure. my board (asrock extreme 4 might be thinner than normal so i wouldnt be surprised).

heres an explanation by someone from corsair from forums about H80 though not H80i:

Glad to see you have it sorted but, there is no "probably" to it. This is how it is designed to mount and it works perfectly. The standoffs are meant to be loose so that you do not have the combination of the standoffs screwing into the back plate pinching the MOBO. Putting washers on either side may in fact cause issues and is NOT recommended.

Be sure that you DO NOT put washers under the standoffs on the front side of the MOBO. This will change the height of the standoff and therefore change the amount of pressure the cooling block has against the CPU heat spreader. Too much or too little pressure is BAD. Washers on the back side, as noted above may cause the standoff to tighten unnecessarily against the front side of the MOBO and damage.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=104576

I don't have much experience with these units in a single fan configuration but I think it's generally better to force air into the radiator rather than trying to pull it through. I would really recommend you get it set up in a push/pull configuration. I have several Kuhler 620's, H50, etc and they really work well when put into push/pull with shrouds for instance.

I have it in pull for dust reasons, i just dont clean my case as diligently and regularly as i should.if that means 5c extra then i cant live with that, but the temps i see can hit 82c in prime at least when fan is mid speed! Adding another fan, wont that add noise? I want it to be silent, so i was thinking of replacing fan with Gentle Typhoon, if i deem it quiet enough i might add another for push and pull. but then these fans arent made for rads thats my concern as well.

What you should look at are temperatures while gaming.
Looks like you are running a stress program, which will load the CPU unrealistically.

If your daily use temps are fine then that's really where the money is. (before you change anything)

i havent tested with games because i dont know how to see CPU temp while in game. But from experience with previous cooler, prime95 with the settings i use tends to be 4c higher than the max in game.



Anyway this is temps my previous Antec 620 gave me before i made the switch:

http://imgur.com/XlQLzyM

keep in mind the fan speed is just 1400 rpm whereas corsair fans are at 1900 rpm.

 

[cortexodus]

Adding another fan, wont that add noise? I want it to be silent, so i was thinking of replacing fan with Gentle Typhoon, if i deem it quiet enough i might add another for push and pull. but then these fans arent made for rads thats my concern as well.

i havent tested with games because i dont know how to see CPU temp while in game. But from experience with previous cooler, prime95 with the settings i use tends to be 4c higher than the max in game.

Actually, for me, adding a second Cooler Master Blade Master to the 620 plus shrouds means that I rarely hear the fans kick in on the CPU on my main PC. The PWM control keeps them at about 740 RPM at idle. Under maximum torture load, the fans will hit 1600 RPM but even that is a pretty low-key "whoosh" from inside an Obsidian 550D. I don't overclock so I'm sure that's one reason things stay pretty cool and quiet as well.

You can run a program like EVGA Precision and it will let you run with an OSD that displays all sorts of things. Or you could just run something like CPUID Hardware Monitor or something while you game for awhile and then make note of the maximum recorded temps.

 

[dikky]

If want superb temps then you need to delid.

 

[dioxholster]

Actually, for me, adding a second Cooler Master Blade Master to the 620 plus shrouds means that I rarely hear the fans kick in on the CPU on my main PC. The PWM control keeps them at about 740 RPM at idle. Under maximum torture load, the fans will hit 1600 RPM but even that is a pretty low-key "whoosh" from inside an Obsidian 550D. I don't overclock so I'm sure that's one reason things stay pretty cool and quiet as well.

You can run a program like EVGA Precision and it will let you run with an OSD that displays all sorts of things. Or you could just run something like CPUID Hardware Monitor or something while you game for awhile and then make note of the maximum recorded temps.

I dont know what a shroud is, but does your antec's fan connect to the pump? when i had it (it was broken anyway) the fan would connect to the pump and pump to CPU fan 1. I had it at full speed in bios (but i dont know if it had direct control to fan) and it only gave me 1400 rpm all the time. if i add another fan could it be a silent one? And one thing i noticied, in bios the lowest fan speed gives me 1080rpm not lower with the corsair fan. Is that the fans fault or the mobos?

 

[cortexodus]

I dont know what a shroud is, but does your antec's fan connect to the pump? when i had it (it was broken anyway) the fan would connect to the pump and pump to CPU fan 1. I had it at full speed in bios (but i dont know if it had direct control to fan) and it only gave me 1400 rpm all the time. if i add another fan could it be a silent one? And one thing i noticied, in bios the lowest fan speed gives me 1080rpm not lower with the corsair fan. Is that the fans fault or the mobos?

I took two junker 120mm fans and chopped the fans and supporting struts out of the frame so the "shroud" is just a fanless 120mm fan frame that I mount between the fan and the radiator on each side. This way, there is supposedly less of a dead spot right behind/in front of the fan. I don't know how much better or worse it really makes things but it does seem to reduce noise a bit imo.

I run identical fans from something like this Y-splitter which has a PWM sense pin only on one of the fans and drive them from the CPU fan header on my motherboard using a "quiet" profile. Fan speed is a combination of the fan in use and the motherboard's speed settings.